Published April 7, 2023 | Version v1
Journal article Open

The Cosmeceutical Potential of the Yellow-Green Alga Trachydiscus minutus Aqueous Extract: Preparation of a Natural-Based Dermal Formula as a Proof of Concept

  • 1. Laboratory of Enzyme Technology, Department of Biotechnology, School of Applied Biology and Biotechnology, Agricultural University of Athens, 75 Iera Odos Street, GR-11855 Athens, Greece;
  • 2. Freshline Cosmetics, 1st km Lavriou Ave Koropiou—Markopoulou, GR-19400 Koropi, Greece;
  • 3. Bionos Biotech, S.L., ES-46026 Valencia, Spain; mmerino@bionos.es (M.M.); jlmullor@bionos.es (J.L.M.)
  • 4. Institute of Applied Biosciences, CERTH, 6th km Charilaou-Thermis Road, P.O. Box 361, Thermi, GR-57001 Thessaloniki, Greece

Description

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae
strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three
widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts,
T. minutus extracts showed the highest total antioxidant capacity (TAC) and inhibitory potency towards
elastase, suggesting potential activity in controlling skin aging. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity,
anti-inflammatory activity and UVA protection of T. minutus extract were evaluated employing
normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The results showed
that the T. minutus extract was able to significantly inhibit the transcription of selected marker genes
involved in inflammation [interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha
(TNF)]. In addition, treatment of NHDF and HaCaT cells with T. minutus extract ameliorate the
UVA-induced cell damage by decreasing the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Extracts
from T. minutus were formulated into a skin care cream and an aqueous gel. Both formulas
exhibited excellent compatibility and stability. Comprehensively, all these results suggest that T.
minutus extract displays promising cosmeceutical properties by providing antioxidant, anti-aging,
and anti-inflammatory activities, and therefore has potential for cosmeceutical use.

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Additional details

Funding

European Commission
AlgaeCeuticals - Development of microalgae-based natural UV Sunscreens and Proteins as cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals 778263