Micellar Enhanced Chromatographic Separation of Selected Hazardous Chemical Present in Hair Dye and their Detection in Formulations, Swab Including Assessment of Damage Caused to Cuticle of Hair Shaft

Hydroquinone (HQ), resorcinol (RS), m-aminophenol (m-AMP) and p-phenylenediamine (p-PPD) are aromatic compounds which are generally used in hair dyes to provide different colours to hair. In European Union the concentrations of HQ, RS, m-AMP and p-PPD is regulated in hair dyes and other cosmetic products by EU commission regulation EU/2019/831. This legislation is generally exercised because all these compounds are toxic and may cause severe allergies when used regularly. However in India no such regulations exist to monitor these toxic compounds in hair dyes therefore in this study a simple, rapid, economical and ecofriendly micellar liquid chromatographic (MLC) technique has been developed which can monitor all the selected toxic compounds simultaneously. HQ and RS are positional isomers and are difficult to be separated by HPLC whereas with the developed MLC method it was well separated and detected. The developed MLC technique has been applied to detect and quantify selected analytes in oxidative and non-oxidative hair dyes and swab samples from the scalp. The simultaneous separation of selected analytes was performed in mobile phase 0.09 M SDS, 0.01 M NaH₂PO₄–2% v/v 1-butanol at pH 7 running through C₁₈ column under isocratic mode at 1 mL/min. flow rate. All the analytes were eluted within 6 min. The present method has been validated following the EURCHEM Guideline, 2014 in terms of calibration range (0.08–15 µg/mL), limit of detection (0.01–0.09 µg/mL), limit of quantification (0.08–0.35 µg/mL), accuracy (<5.6%), precision (91–105%) and robustness (<5.8%). The selected compounds in hair dye formulation were found in the range of 0.06–12.2 µg/mL (when diluted 25 times). Hair dyes persistence study was conducted up to 10 days from the day of application on the scalp, suggesting that the dyes were not completely washed off and were retained on the scalp for more than one week. SEM analysis of dyed hair revealed that hair are severely damaged due to use of dyes. The advantage of the developed method is that it could easily be adopted by quality control and cosmetic laboratories for quality control and check for the simultaneous separation of positional isomers together with two other aromatic compounds.