Модний образ у фешн-ілюстрації ар-нуво та ар-деко: сюжет «жінка та авто»

In recent years, in various fields of contemporary humanitarian knowledge, the idea that modern fashion is a universal basis for the development of culture becomes popular. It is able to reach and re-register not only the body, but also all forms of manifestation of personality. Fashion influences on the choice of representatives of different layers of society of their place of residence and the forms of the whole habitat – housing, private transport, furniture, clothing, appearance, manner and behavior, profession and forms of rest. This necessitates a more detailed study of the modes of functioning of the mode and means of its popularization. In particular, the presentation of a fashionable image by means of graphic illustration of the time of its heyday (the end of the XIX – the first third of the XX) deserves attention. The objectives of this study are to determine the characteristic features of pictorial illustration of fashion – fashion illustration – on the example of the analysis of the formation of a female fashionable image as a symbol of new trends in the social, cultural, artistic process of the outline era. So far, this approach has been applied more to the analysis of other types of graphic design, mainly posters and illustrations of books. The novelty of this study is to analyze the fashion illustration as a type of graphic art and to identify its influence as a factor of socio-cultural innovations. The works of such authors as by Julius Stewart, Jules Cheret, Charles Gibson, Harrison Fisher, Edward Penfield, Joseph Christian Leyendecker, Tamara Lempitsky, Georges Lepape and others are considered The results of the research confirm the opinion that from the moment of its birth (XV century) the drawing fashion illustration evolves in the context of the general development of the artistic process and culture as a whole. Particularly active these trends are manifested in the Newest period of history. The development of fashion and fashion illustration at the end of the nineteenth century. was associated with the searches in the field of plastic arts, which concerned formal-stylistic aspects. At the end of the century, these searches are realized in the first style of art, which was deliberately designed as the only one for all elements of the environment – Art nouveau. At this time, the public interest to the fashion is growing significantly. Famous writers, actors, artists begin to express their attitude to fashion, to comment on novelties. Respect for the profession of fashion designer is growing. In those years, the foundation of the prosperity of numerous Houses of mod are laid. Their successful activity largely depended on popularization through the relevant periodicals. The successes of the fashion industry, the awareness of the multifunctionality of fashion and its role in human life have contributed to a more respectful attitude to specialized fashion magazines. The leader in publishing of fashion magazine is France. Carrying out an important function of informing the consumer about certain or other features of fashionable clothes, fashion illustration of specialized magazines, gives more attention to the formation of ideas about the fashionable image of his time. This term covers the whole complex of components – clothes and hairstyles, makeup and accessories, the type of appearance and manners, which together create a coherent image of the fashionable appearance of the person in a particular era.In the day of Art-nouve to create a fashionable female image equally important were the opposite trends: the prosperity of salons, the images of fatal women-orchids, exquisite variability of forms, and at the same time – the democratization of social life and general enthusiasm for sports, the cult of health. Unique possibilities of combining these two trends gives the theme that appears at the end of the century – a woman and car, which since 1885 begins a triumphal movement on the planet. The car is perceived as a means of demonstrating status and elitism. Therefore, the development of the car, possession of this miracle of technology and driving are significant for creating a new fashionable image and lifestyle from the end of the century. The theme «woman and auto» becomes an actual subject in the visual arts, especially in fashion illustrations.Different variations on this topic were developed in printed graphic products of the early of XX century. However, the main leitmotif of images – driving a car as a means to attract attention and demonstrate its worth. The car is an «advertisement» of its social status as a woman, a testimony to her contemporaneity and a means of focusing on her own person. At the same time, another solution is being developed for the topic. These are works in which, on the contrary, the image of a woman is an effective means of attracting attention to a new vehicle. At the beginning of the second decade, a new direction for artistic quest, designed after the warin the Art deco style, is outlined. He combined the pragmatism of early modernism with the desire for a demonstration of luxury, indirectly reflecting the dynamic changes in the post-war world. By capturing new types of social activity and employment, women have also been focused on finding new ways to detect their exterior charm. Highly developed covers of fashion magazines present a complete grace of heroines, for which the car serves simultaneously as an additional fashion accessory and confirmation of status. The beginning of the third decade introduces changes in the image of «woman and auto». The more accessible material and technically became cars, the more often the ladies were transferred from the passenger seat on the driver's seat. The car as a means of transportation became a necessary component, and, consequently, a sign of business and social activity of both men and women. Automakers have expanded the nature of their workings out and new offers, focusing on designing cars for the needs of women. Since the 1930s, the car entered the life of a woman as an element of everyday life, the presence and management of it testified to the active life position of the owner and personal traits. The visualization of a female image is increasingly based on the image of an expert woman who has knowledge and experience in assessing the quality of the car.These results are significant in the training of specialists in the field of design of clothing, graphic design and the study of relevant aspects of the history of fashion, the history of graphic illustration.