A Study on The Motifs of Sasak Songket Weaving Cloths in Lombok, Indonesia

There are several types of weaving known on Lombok Island, one of which is songket weaving which is a type of weaving typical of the Sasak tribe. The problem of this research was the lack of literature that studies in depth the motifs and meaning of the symbols of the motifs on the Lombok woven cloth. The purpose of this study was to identify the motif and analyse the meaning of the symbols of the songket weaving motifs of Lombok, typical of the Sasak tribe. The research method used in this study is a qualitative approach and the data was analysed using Saussure’s semiotic theory. It was found that many types of songket woven motifs are dominated by flora and fauna motifs and celestial motifs, and the rest are geometric motifs. The meaning of symbols in the songket weaving motifs of Lombok is heavily influenced by local culture, Malay culture and also Islamic values. In addition, the environment and social life of the Sasak tribe, which used to be the majority of Hindus, also influenced the symbolism of the woven motifs. Further, it would be better to continue this study more thoroughly with a focus on the motifs, symbolism, and function of Lombok's woven fabrics and their relationship to the social and cultural aspects of the Sasak people on the island of Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara Province, Indonesia.


INTRODUCTION
There are many types of traditional art and crafts in the Archipelago such as cloth, jewellery, carvings, potteries, and so on.Weaving is one of the traditional arts in the type of textiles.In several countries in Southeast Asia such as Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, Singapore, and several surrounding countries, there are many types of traditional songket fabrics.In Indonesia, each region has its own unique traditional https://myjms.mohe.gov.my/index.php/ijad/index| ISSN: 2710-5776 |38 songket fabric, one of which can also be found on the island of Lombok.Lombok is one of the regions and at the same time the name of an island located in the Province of West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.The inhabitants of the island are populated by mostly people of ethnic Sasak who are the original inhabitants of the island of Lombok.According to Sumardi (2018), there is a lot of historical evidence like lontar script writings that described the glory of the ancient kingdom, Lombok, which was originally the name of an ancient port on the island and is now used as the name of the island.After its fall, the Lombok kingdom broke up and spread throughout the island.Later, the king's relatives decided to build their kingdoms.Mardiyanti (2016) cited that many traditional arts and crafts on the island of Lombok came from and were affected by the influence of the traders brought, who used to come to trade through the ports on Lombok Island, ranging from traders from the archipelago such as Malacca, Gresik, Tuban, Ternate, Tidore, Makassar, Banjarmasin, and much more.In addition, people from Arab lands, most of whom were scholars and religious people and incidentally from the Middle East, also came to trade and at the same time spread Islam on the island of Lombok.Zuhdi (2018) claims that many types of culture eventually emerged in the society of Sasak people at the time, such as the culture of the Hindu kingdoms of the island of Bali which were more inclined to their Hindu religion, the Hindu-Buddhist culture of the land of Java, and Islamic religious values which were brought by Arabs from the Middle East and Malay Sultanates.The collision of these foreign cultures has gradually created its cultural style for the Sasak Tribe on the island of Lombok.These cultural and social styles and values are contained as symbols in the traditional arts of the Sasak tribe, one of which we can find in their traditional weaving craft.
This study discusses the symbolism contained in the motifs of songket weaving in Lombok by identifying the motifs and finding out the meanings contained within.The objective of this study is to identify the motifs on the songket fabrics of the Sasak tribe, and the significance of this study was expected to be able to give a better understanding of the motifs, the meaning of the motifs, and the social and cultural influences on the motifs.In addition, the results of this study are expected to provide benefits such as could be useful as a reference for incoming related studies with similar interest in studying the field of art studies, especially those related to motifs, symbolism, woven fabrics, or weaving typical of the Sasak tribe, and to contribute into the body of knowledge in the field of art and culture and other related fields of science.

Malay Weaving
Considering weaving crafts art has already been altered and merged into Malay culture to the point where it cannot be detached from Malay everyday life, it has numerous cultural significance.Each Malay location and hamlet has developed its unique weaving methods and designs (Rahmi, 2018).The varied Malay cultures naturally employ this weaving style.It co-exists with the practices, cultures, and even religious beliefs of the locales, producing diversity that is occasionally overt and often original and/or unique.The invention of novel textile methods leads to the emergence of distinctive designs and themes.A meticulous method that adheres to essential stage process guidelines and needs for experienced hands is necessary to make the end product appear harmonious.

Malay and Songket Tradition in Lombok
Juniati (2020) mentioned that the Sasak tribe has a type of traditional loom called Sesek.The name of this loom is inspired by the way of weaving, namely tucking the warp threads between the weft threads and squeezing them with a long stick of wood, or the Sasak people call it Nyesek or pressing.Suwijono et al. (2010) mentioned that there are 4 types of weaving found in Lombok, which are Sesek weaving, songket weaving, Pelikat weaving, and ikat weaving.Lombok's typical Sesek weaving is further divided into 2 types of weaving, namely ordinary Sesek weaving without decorative or decorative threads, and the other is songket weaving which the surrounding community usually calls Songket Subahnale.Songket Subahnale is an ordinary woven cloth that is woven using a traditional loom of Lombok called the Sesek loom, then the fabric is given decorative threads with gold threads or silver threads or other types of colourful metallic threads or satin thread by twisting the fabric and tucking the decorative thread.The art of Sasak songket weaving is heavily influenced by Malay culture in the past which was widely introduced and developed as a type of textile art in almost all cultures of Southeast Asia and Malay nations, in particular, such as Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, and many other countries in Indonesia archipelago.

Symbol and Sign
According to semiotician Ferdinand de Saussure (as cited in Budiwirman, 2018), semiotics is a science that studies the relationship between symbols or signs and the information contained within them.Semiotics is a science that is widely used to understand the meaning that links signs and the social context in which signs are used.The sign is also one of many forms of language and is the most ancient format of language.In absolute terms, the language that humans use is not originally derived from their thoughts but only acts as a user, and the linguistic rules have existed naturally and are regulated in their culture.Misnawati (2016) stated humans as symbolic creatures or homo-symbolic means their life cannot be separated from the experience of creating, practising, and interpreting symbols.Apart from being symbolic creatures, humans are also cultural creatures, which means that humans do not stop developing, bringing ideas, values, efforts, functions, experiences, and behaviours, and pouring them into the form of art.Therefore, during his life, humans begin to get to know their surroundings starting with experiencing signs, clues, and patterns that appear in nature.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
The research methodology in this study used observation and interview methods.The researcher carried out primary data collection with observations by visiting Sukarara Village and Museum Negeri NTB which were considered potential in providing necessary data.The researcher took 4 samples of songket cloth from the Sukarara Village's gallery, including the Subahnale Laeq, Subahnale Keker, Subahnale Wayang, and Subahnale Bulan Bekurung.The researcher also provided supporting data in the form of footage or data documentation such as photos and audio.The researcher also gathered information by interviewing informants who are capable of providing relevant information about the songket fabrics and their motifs.The data that had been collected went through the analysis data process.The data collected in the form of four songket cloth samples from the sharing gallery owned by the residents located in Sukarara Village was then identified to get motifs contained within.The motifs were then analysed using Ferdinand de Saussure's semiotic theory to find the meaning of the symbolism represented by the motifs and how they related to the sociocultural context of the Sasak people.

FINDINGS
By referring to the object of research, which is to identify the symbolism of the motifs on Lombok songket fabrics and focusing on 4 samples of woven fabrics that have been determined, the object of this research has been fulfilled.The following is a list of Lombok songket woven fabrics along with their respective descriptions arranged in table 2.

Motifs of Sasak Songket Weaving Cloths
The following are the results of the identification of the motifs of Lombok songket weaving which are listed in Figures 5 to 8. All the possible motifs found in weaving are identified to make it easier to analyse the meaning and/ or the symbolism within each motif.The Remawa motif is a motif taken from the simplified figure of a rose in a geometric shape.In the Sasak tradition, besides the moon, the rose has always been a symbol of women, femininity, and beauty.The rose symbol is used in various art objects, one of which is the Subahnale Laeq songket as a symbol of beauty (Rosyidi, 2012).The Sandat motif is a motif derived from Ylang flower figures which are simplified into geometric shapes.The Ylang flower is a flower known for its fragrant aroma and in the Sasak tradition, the Ylang flower is a symbol of the "fragrance" of the ancestors.The meaning of "fragrance" itself is matched with the legacy that continues to flow from the ancestors to their children and grandchildren (Rosyidi, 2012).The tri raja motif is a hexagonal-shaped geometric motif that is a symbol of the king's honour.The Triraja motif is a motif that symbolises 3 conditions for the fulfilment of the king's dignity which is focused on protecting the princess of the king's crown, including; (1) when travelling or going out at night, the crown princess must be provided with lighting, (2) when travelling, the crown princess must be accompanied by a lady or male from the princess's mahram such as a brother, mother, or the king himself, and (3) if you leave the house, the princess must first get the blessing of her parents (Rosyidi, 2012).The Kuta motif is a geometric type of motif that comes from a combination of various shapes such as meander, thick, thin lines, rhombus, or triangles.Kuta in Balinese means "fortress", where the symbol of Kuta means the protection and security of the people under the rule of the king (Rosyidi, 2012).

Motif Subject Matter
The Keker motif is a fauna type of motif taking the figure of two pairs of peacocks.This Keker motif is usually combined with floral motifs such as shrubs, palms, and trees with geometric umbrella shapes, or fauna motifs made from the simplified figure of peacock feathers.The peacock is a symbol of wealth, luck, beauty, or luxury.The Keker motif itself is depicted in the form of a pair of peacocks making love under a tree.This pair of peacocks symbolises intimacy, love, harmony, and happiness.In addition, the symbol of the peacock feather is a depiction of God's omnipotence (Misnawati, 2016).Table 12.The symbolism of the palm tree motif Signifier Signified Motif Subject Matter Songket subahnale Keker is not complete with only a peacock motif without a palm tree motif among the peacocks.The Palem motif is a flora-type motif and is a symbol of protection that gives shade to a pair of peacocks who are making love.This motif is also a symbol of God's love and blessing for the bride and groom of Adam's children.The addition of this palm tree motif completes the Keker motif as a symbol of the eternal honeymoon (Misnawati, 2016).The Panaq motif is a natural object motif that is used to fill the empty part of the fabric.Panaq in the Sasak language means arrow which, as the name suggests, has a geometric shape like an arrow being shot from its bow.This Panaq motif has the meaning of human nature, which when it is desired, the intention arises in him to go straight to his desire.In addition, this motif also has the meaning that humans should not only hope for sustenance from God without any effort to get it because Islam believes that Allah does not change the fate of a people except with the wishes of the people themselves.This arrow motif can also be a symbol of human determination who always strives towards what he wants to achieve (Pratama, 2017).

Motif Subject Matter
The Cemara motif is a motif inspired by the cypress trees that grow a lot on the beach on the island of Lombok.Spruce for the Sasak tribe is a symbol for objects or trends that have timeless popularity.It can also mean something that is eternal or continues to be practised forever, like a cypress tree that always has a way of growing and continues to survive adorning the shores of the island of Lombok despite having to fight the waves every day every time the sea is high (Siandari, 2013).Table 16.The symbolism of wayang Signifier Signified

Motif Subject Matter
The wayang motif has two main objects that compose it, namely the motif of a pair of humans facing each other under a grand umbrella.The word wayang means shadow puppets as in this motif there is a figure of a pair of brides under an umbrella figure which is inspired by Sasak wedding customs where when carrying out Nyongkolan or the bridal procession, the two brides will be in front of the procession under a large umbrella called Payung Agung.This motif has the meaning of mutual respect between God's creatures, whether one is a fellow resident or a foreigner, and must maintain harmony with each other.As long as their intentions are good, foreigners must be treated well, like the nature of Sasak people who are known to be friendly and like to entertain their guests even though they are foreigners.The Wayang motif is also a symbol of togetherness, intimacy, and protection like the umbrella motif that shelters the love of a pair of lovers under the hot sun (Sutarto et al., 2021).

Motif Subject Matter
The Seperwatu motif is a type of floral motif that comes from the star anise figure.Star anise flower is one type of spice that is often used in foods from Southeast Asia and several other countries such as India or Middle Eastern countries such as Arabia.This flower is believed to have come from China, which is believed to contain many benefits and is now widely cultivated in countries in Southeast Asia.The characteristic of this flower is that it has a sweet and fragrant smell.In the past, before it became common as it is now, the flower of star anise spice was famous for its expensive price and only certain people could buy it.Star anise flowers have long been a symbol of generosity and wealth and are often found as decorative motifs in various types of traditional arts, such as the songket subahnale (Hashim & Hussain, 2020).

Motif Subject Matter
The Rembaung motif is a floral motif inspired by the bamboo plant.The Rembaung motif or shoots of bamboo shoots is the most common motif found in various traditional Malay art objects such as woven fabrics, songket, or batik.This motif takes the figure of a young bamboo shoot which is simplified into a geometric shape similar to a triangle.In the Sasak tradition, bamboo shoots are associated with "fertility" because it is believed that the growth of good bamboo shoots is in a good season for planting crops.Besides being a symbol of fertility, bamboo shoots are also a symbol of "a beginning" where the growth of good bamboo shoots is a sign that the rainy season is coming, and the harvest season can be guaranteed to be good (Rosyidi, 2012).The Bulan Bekurung motif on this cloth imitates a moon which is taking the sample from floral motifs such as the Remawa motif or the cape motif.The moon motif is an astrological type of motif.In the Sasak tradition, apart from roses, the moon is also a symbol of "women'' and "beauty".The Bulan Bekurung motif symbolises the chastity of a daughter which must be guarded until she is ready to marry.As long as she still lives with her parents, a girl is still under the care of her parents until a man is ready to propose to her (Lestari et al., 2019).Moon and hexagon

Lombok Songket Motifs Category
The motifs from the 4 Lombok songket fabrics were analysed and then sorted based on the type of category for each motif.From these cloth motifs, the researcher classified them into 6 categories of motifs, including: The following are the identified motifs of the four fabric samples which have been sorted based on the 6 categories of motifs: The 4 samples of Lombok songket cloth have been analysed and obtained 20 motifs, including 11 motifs in the fauna category, 5 motifs in the geometric category, and 1 motif each for the fauna, cosmic, object and humanoid categories.There is a Kuta motif, which is a geometric motif with a meander ornament edge that consistently appears on the top and bottom edges of all 4 songket fabrics.Apart from that, several motifs have more than 1 variation, including the 3 Kuta motif variants, the 2 Seperwatu motif variants, and the 2 Tanjung motif variants.Also, the Cemara motif appears on 3 songket fabrics with only 1 variant that appeared on the sides of the fabrics.

CONCLUSION
In conclusion, most of the motifs of Lombok songket fabrics, whose craft centre is in Sukarara village, mostly have flora-type of motifs, with Cemara motif appearing 3 times, Seperwatu and Tanjung motif appearing 2 times each, and for Remawa, Palem, and Rembaung appeared once each.It seems that the Kuta, Cemara and Rembaung motifs are decorative motifs used to fill the margins of Lombok's songket fabrics.The kuta motif itself is used to fill the top and bottom edges of the cloth, while the cemara and rembaung motifs are used to fill the right and left sides of the cloth.
However, the meaning contained in these motifs is very deep and much influenced by local social and cultural values, especially during the Islamic period in the archipelago.The motifs in the Subahnale songket are heavily influenced by the social and cultural environment of the surrounding community as well as the many influences of Islamic teachings, Malay culture, and some transitions from the values of Hindu-Buddhist teachings and some of the teachings of the ancestors.This study of the motifs on the songket subahnale weaving typical of the Sasak tribe from Lombok Island needs an in-depth study especially their relation to the culture of Malay and the Islamic teaching affects the art, social, and culture of the Sasak tribe, however with more thorough observations and large-scale sampling of songket fabrics throughout Lombok so that more accurate and factual conclusions can be drawn.
, metallic Design : A fabric with motifs of roses, Ylang flowers, lotus flowers, or a combination of them, then the floral motifs are separated by hexagonal motifs.Design : Songket cloth based on red, brown, or other dark colours is decorated with an index of the peacock motif.
Design : Subahnale woven fabric which has a motif index in the form of a pair of puppets and an umbrella in the middle.
Design : This subahnale songket cloth has an index of the moon motif in a hexagon cage which is simplified from the Remawa flower motif or rose flower.

Table 19 . The symbolism of Kuta motif Signifier Signified Motif Subject Matter
(Rosyidi, 2012)nd Balinese means fort.The Kuta motif has many variations of motifs and what is characteristic of this motif is the impression that the arrangement of geometric motifs is repeatedly composed of "S" shape meander, straight lines, curved lines, rhombuses, squares, or triangles.The Kuta motif is usually placed on the top and bottom edges of the fabric.The Kuta motif is a symbol of protection and security from the king to his people(Rosyidi, 2012).