SOUPS.-  FIRST DIVISION.
 Brown Stock.- For this stock there will be required material in the following quantities:
 Four pounds of the shin of beef, four young carrots, four Bermuda onions, one small turnip, one half head of celery, one half tablespoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of white pepper corns, one half teaspoonful of black pepper corns.
 First, cutting all of the meat from the bone, remove the marrow, and break up the bone with a hammer.
 Put the meat and bone together in a large saucepan, and pour over these five pints of cold water, placing the saucepan over the fire.
 Bring the water now quickly to the boiling point and skim off, when boiling, all of the scum that rises to the surface. Throw into the saucepan then the salt, which will bring any remaining albumen or scum to the top; when, skimming once more, add to the contents of the pan the carrot, turnip and celery, all cut into very small pieces. Before adding the onion blanch it with boiling water, to draw from it the greenness which produces indigestion; having done which, put it together with the pepper corns into the saucepan and allow all again to boil.
 When this is done, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, cover it closely, and allow its contents to simmer slowly for five hours; at the end of which time the stock should be strained through a clean towel to remove the meat and vegetables, the juices and flavour of which have been extracted, and put away to cool for future use.
 NOTE.- Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees, and to boil meat in it for eating, or to prepare stock, the water having been first brought to the boiling point, should be permitted to fall to a temperature of 160 degrees, to prevent the meat hardening.
 A second stock can be made from the meat and bones used for the first, by covering them again with cold water, adding some fresh vegetables, and bringing all to the boiling point; allowing the preparation to simmer slowly thereafter for four hours.
  
 Clear Soup.-  Material and quantities required:
 One quart of brown stock, the whites and shells of two eggs, and as much salt and pepper as can be held between the thumb and finger.
 The stock must have been allowed to become quite cold, when it will have thickened and set. Then, dipping the corner of a towel in boiling water, wash the grease from the top.
 Now put the stock into a saucepan and allow it to melt -a copper saucepan is preferable.  Put the whites and shells of the two eggs into a small bowl, add to them half a gill of cold water and the salt and pepper.
 When the stock has melted add the eggs so prepared, and with two forks whisk the whole briskly until it boils.
 The instant the soup boils cover the saucepan closely and draw it aside from the fire and allow it to simmer for ten minutes.
 Then strain through a clean towel, taking care not to break the crust which the eggs have formed at the lop in process of clearing, and it is ready to serve.
 NOTE.- Macaroni and vermicelli soup are made from this clear soup by simply boiling the macaroni and vermicelli in water, put on cold, then putting them into the tureen and pouring the hot stock over.
 KIDNEY SOUP- MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
 Kidney Soup.- Quantities and materials are to be used as follows:
 Two ox kidneys, two quarts of second stock, two table spoonful of Harvey's sauce, two table spoonful mushroom ketchup, one ounce of flour of rice, two ounces of butter, one grain of cayenne pepper and a little of black pepper and table salt.
 In preparing this soup, the kidneys have first to be well washed in cold water, then after being thoroughly dried in a towel, they must be cut into thin slices. The butter is next to be put into a dry saucepan and heated until smoke begins to arise therefrom, the pieces of kidney added and browned therein; the flour of rice must then be put into a basin mid be made smooth with a little of the stock, when the Harvey sauce is to be added, also the pepper, salt, cayenne, and ketchup; after which the rest of the stock is thrown into the basin, stirred until well mixed, and then the whole mixture poured over the kidney as prepared and placed in the saucepan.
 Now, putting the saucepan over the fire, stir the contents until boiling to prevent the flour lumping, and skim carefully meantime. After this boiling point is reached the saucepan must be drawn aside from the fire, tightly covered and allowed to simmer for two hours, when it is done.
 NOTE.- In browning meats of any kind the stock should be poured over them cold, that the brown which has been obtained may not be washed away in the process.
 Kidneys especially should be cooked over a slow fire to prevent them hardening.
  
 Mock Turtle Soup.- The ingredients for this soup must be provided in the following quantities:
 One calf’s head, five ounces of flour, five ounces of butter, one ounce of mixed spice, two Bermuda onions, two wine glassfuls of sherry, five quarts of cold water, one lemon, one tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, one half tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of pepper.
 The method of preparation is: first soak the calf’s head in cold water for an hour, for the purpose of cleansing it of blood or such other remaining impurities as there may be; then after drying the same in a clean towel, put it into a large saucepan and pour· thereon the five quarts of cold water. The saucepan is then placed over a quick fire, and being carefully cleared of scum as it boils, which it should do speedily, the onions, mixed spices, pepper, and salt must be thrown in at once. Having reached the boiling point and the flavouring materials having been added, the whole should now be permitted to boil slowly until the meat will readily separate from the bones -a period of from two to five hours, to be determined by the age of the calf- when the tongue is to be removed and skinned, also the meat taken from the cheeks, and both cut into small pieces to be presently used.
 The bones and head remaining in the saucepan must now be permitted to boil four hours, at the end of which the liquor should be drawn off and strained, and the small pieces of meat remaining in the saucepan must be collected, cut finely, seasoned with pepper and salt, to which add a little flour, and then combined with the two fresh eggs to give consistency to the mixture, rolled into small balls, and placed in the oven for five minutes in order that they may keep shape by being hardened.
 Now taking a clean saucepan, let the butter be melted and the remainder of the flour stirred into it, when the liquor should be added and the whole stirred until it boils.
 The pieces of meat from the cheek and tongue previously prepared must now be thrown in, and all allowed to boil for ten minutes. The lemon, thinly sliced, is to be placed in the tureen, together with the sherry and the balls and the ketchup, over which the soup is to be poured, when it is ready for serving.
 NOTE.- If the soup is not sufficiently dark in colour, a little caramel may be added, the instructions for the preparation of which are given on page 247.
  
 Brown Soup.- Materials and quantities:
 Three pounds of shin of beef, two and one half quarts of cold water, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour of rice, one dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, one dessertspoonful of Harvey's sauce, one teaspoonful of whole black pepper, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper, one dozen cloves, one half tablespoonful of salt, six drops of caramel, one carrot, one turnip, one half head of celery, and one onion.
 In preparing this soup, the first thing to be done is the cutting of the meat from the bone, and the removing of the marrow. Then the marrow and the butter must be heated together· in a large saucepan, and when the smoke arises from them, the meat and bone must be put into the same and browned, and the vegetables cut into very small pieces and browned also. To this add the water in its given quantity and allow the whole to come quickly to the boiling point, skimming carefully meantime. The salt, pepper, and cloves should now be thrown in, and the whole allowed to boil slowly for four hours, when the liquor should be strained and returned to the saucepan.
 The flour of rice should now be put into a bowl and made smooth with the Harvey sauce and ketchup, then added to the strained liquor in the saucepan, and boiled together with it for ten minutes to prevent the flour of rice tasting raw. Just before serving add the caramel, which does not require to be cooked, but is used for the purpose of giving the soup the proper colour.
  
 Giblet Soup.- The quantities and ingredients required are:
 Two sets of giblets, three quarts of stock, two ounces of butter, one gill of sherry, two ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one sprig of parsley, two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme, one grain of cayenne pepper, one half a salt spoonful of salt, and an equal quantity of pepper.
 The manner of making the soup is as follows:
 The giblets must be scalded and picked entirely clean of skin, and then cut into small pieces equal in size. When this is done, next melt the butter and brown the giblets to a pale brown in it. Then add to them the sherry and one gill of the stock, after which let it cook slowly until the liquor is reduced to one half the quantity, when the remainder of the stock must be added, also the parsley, thyme, and bay leaves, and let all cook slowly together until the giblets are tender, the time of which depends upon whether the giblets are of chicken or fow1.
 When the giblets are tender, they should be removed and the liquor strained, which is to be thickened with a little flour, the flour first being made smooth with a little cold water, and then the whole is to be boiled one hour; after which the giblets must be returned to the liquor, the lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and salt also added, and all permitted to boil for five minutes. When it is done it should be dished very hot.
  
 Hotchpotch.- The necessaries and measures for this soup are:
 A neck of mutton, six lamb chops, two quarts of cold water, six young carrots, four young turnips, one head of lettuce, one tablespoonful of parsley, one pint of green peas, one young cauliflower, one half tablespoonful of salt, one small teaspoonful of pepper.
 The neck of mutton must first be washed thoroughly in cold water. It then should be put into the saucepan and covered with two quarts of cold water and placed over the fire: when the water boils, skim it, and add the salt, allowing it to boil for two hours thereafter. At the end of this time, it must be strained, the lamb chops first cut in two and then added, the turnips quartered and added, and five of the carrots cut into thin slices and also added, and all allowed to boil together for three quarters of an hour. After this put in the lettuce and the parsley, which have been chopped fine meantime; the peas and the cauliflower, the flower of which only is used; the pepper and the remaining carrot, which must be grated; and let all boil slowly for twenty minutes.
  
 NOTE.- The heart of a young cabbage may be added to this soup by persons relishing the flavour of this vegetable.
  
 Hare Soup.- One hare, two pounds shin of beef, four quarts of cold water, one onion, one head of celery, one teaspoonful whole white pepper, one teaspoonful whole black pepper, one tablespoonful salt, two ounces of flour of rice, one tablespoonful mushroom ketchup, one tablespoonful Worcester sauce.
 When the hare has been skinned, take the greatest care, in removing the entrails, to lose none of the blood.
 Pour the blood into a large soup pan, and add to it the water; also the beef (cut in small pieces), and bone, from which the marrow has been removed.
 Wipe the hare well with a damp towel, to remove from it the hairs which may adhere to it.
 Cut the hare into convenient pieces; put the pieces in the pan and stir all over a slow fire till boiling.
 When this liquor boils, add the onion, celery, salt, and pepper corns; cover the pan closely, and allow all to simmer very slowly for two hours.
 Remove then the back parts and legs of the hare, and continue to boil slowly the remainder for an hour and a half longer.
 Cut all the meat from the back and legs into small square pieces and put them on one side.
 When the soup has boiled for three hours and a half, pour it through a hair sieve into a large bowl; rinse the pan with cold water, and return to it the strained liquor.
 Mix now very smoothly in a bowl the rice flour with the ketchup and Worcester sauce. When well blended, add all to the soup, also the pieces of meat which were removed from the back and legs of the hare.
 Return the pan to the fire and stir all till boiling. Simmer ten minutes, and the soup is ready for serving.
  
 NOTE.- A potato and carrot may be added with the celery, if desired. If the liquor is not constantly stirred when first put on the fire, the blood is sure to curdle, and the soup is never so nice.
  
 SOUPS.- SECOND DIVISION.
 White Stock.- For this stock there will be required: One fowl, two pounds of veal, four quarts of cold water, one Bermuda onion, two leeks, one head of celery, two cloves, one half tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper.
 To prepare this stock, the veal and the fowl must first be put into a large saucepan and covered with the water, when it should be brought quickly to the boiling point, that the scum may arise at once and be removed. When this is done, the salt must be thrown in, after which it must be skimmed again, and the vegetables thrown in, the cloves and pepper also, and then the whole left to simmer slowly three hours. At the end of this time, it should be strained through a clean towel and allowed to cool.
 NOTE.- The directions for clearing this stock are to be found under the heading" Clear Soup," on page 10, beginning" Put the whites and shells of two eggs," etc.
  
 Tapioca Cream Soup.- For this soup provide:- One quart of white stock, two ounces of crushed tapioca, the yolks of four eggs, four tablespoonful of sweet cream, one half a salt spoonful of salt, and an equal quantity of pepper.
 The stock must first be brought to the boiling point, and as it boils, the tapioca should be sprinkled in carefully to prevent its lumping, and when this is done, both allowed to simmer for twenty minutes. While the stock and tapioca are boiling, the egg yolks, the cream, pepper, and salt should be put into a bowl and smoothly beaten together. Then let the boiling liquid cool a little, -two minutes will be sufficient,- after which put two table spoonful of it to the mixture in the bowl, stir it together and pour the whole into the saucepan; put all over the fire for two minutes, stirring meantime to prevent boiling, when the eggs will have cooked without curdling, and it is ready for serving, which should be done very hot.
 Turkish Soup.- Furnish for this:
 One quart of white stock, one half teacupful of whole rice, the yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of cream, one half salt spoonful of salt, and an equal amount of pepper.
 In preparing this soup, boil first the rice in the stock for twenty minutes. At the end of this time pass the whole through a wire sieve, rubbing such of the rice as may stick through with a wooden spoon; then stir it thoroughly to beat out such lumps as the rice may have formed, and return all to the saucepan. The yolks of eggs, cream, pepper, and salt must now be well beaten together and added to the stock and rice, and the whole stirred over the fire for two minutes, care being taken to prevent boiling after the eggs are put in, for reasons already given.
 This soup should also be served very bot.
 Soup à-la-Reiné.- For this there will be required:
 One young fowl, one Bermuda onion, one and one half quarts of cold water, one sprig of parsley, one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, three gills of cream, one half a dessertspoonful of salt, and one half teaspoonful of white pepper, one half dozen celery tops.
 Begin the preparation of this soup by putting the fowl into a large saucepan and covering it with the given quantity of water. When this boils and has been skimmed, add the vegetables and the herbs, also the pepper and salt, and allow the whole to boil slowly for one hour. After boiling this length of time, the fowl must be taken out, the white meat cut from the breast, and put aside to be used later. This being done, return the fowl to the saucepan, and let it boil for two hours longer, then draw off the liquor and strain it through a sieve. Take now the white meat and chop it very fine, or pound it in a mortar, as may be most convenient, mix well with it the cream, pour the compound into the strained liquor, put the whole into a clean saucepan, and allow it just to come to the boiling, when it is ready for use.
 NOTE.- By celery tops, the small tender leaves at the top of the stalk are meant, which are delicious as a flavouring agent.
 Rabbit Soup.- Materials and quantities must be provided as follows:
 Two rabbits, three ounces of butter, two quarts of boiling water, one and one half ounces of flour of rice, one grain of grated nutmeg, three Bermuda onions, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper.
 Preparatory to the making of this soup, the rabbits should be soaked for an hour in strong salt and water, for the purpose of draining out the blood and also taking from them the strong, wild, gamey flavour peculiar to them; then cut them into pieces convenient for the saucepan and wash them well in boiling water to whiten the meat.
 Now put them, so prepared, into the saucepan, and pour the two quarts of boiling water over them, adding the onions, pepper, and salt, and allow all to boil until the meat of the game will separate readily from the bone.
 In a separate saucepan then melt the butter, stir into it the flour· of rice, and strain the liquor from the rabbits into it. Add to this the nutmeg, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes, when it is ready for serving.
 NOTE.- In departing from the usual mode of using either cold water or cold stock, as above, it is to be noted that the boiling water is here used to keep the meat from darkening, which it has a tendency to do.
 If it should be desired, the small, nice pieces of meat may be added to this soup.
  
 Mulligatawny Soup.- Materials and quantities: One fowl, two quarts of cold water, two onions, two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of curry powder, one teaspoonful of sugar, one half teacupful of whole rice, one dessertspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper.
 Begin this preparation by first covering the fowl with the two quarts of water and bring it to boiling over a quick fire. When it boils up and has been skimmed, add the pepper corns, salt, and onions, then boil slowly until the meat of the fowl becomes tender. Now, removing the fowl from the saucepan, cut the meat from the breast and legs, making the same into small pieces to thicken the soup with later, and return the bones and remaining fowl to the stock, when all must be allowed to boil for one hour longer, and then strained. The butter has then to be melted in a fresh saucepan, and the flour, curry powder, and sugar added, with which put the strained stock and whole rice, and boil the whole for twenty minutes.
 Just before serving, add the small pieces of chicken cut from the breast and legs, and send to table very hot.
  
 Ox tail Soup.- Ingredients to be used in the following proportions: Two ox tails, two quarts of second stock, ten cloves, one teaspoonful of pepper corns, one dessertspoonful of salt, one large carrot, one turnip.
 First cut the ox tails into pieces about two inches in length, wash them well in cold water, put them together with the stock into a saucepan, and bring quickly to the boiling point. When boiling, skim well and add the salt, also the pepper corns and cloves secured in a piece of muslin or bag, after which allow it to boil slowly for two hours. Then the carrot and turnip should be cut into dice, or with a French cutter into balls, and added to the soup, boiled therein half an hour, when, removing the cloves and pepper corns, the soup is ready for use.
  
  
 PURÉES.- FIRST DIVISION.
 Purée à-la-Condé.- For this will be required: One pint of haricot beans, three pints of white stock, one carrot, one small turnip, one Bermuda onion, a bouquet garnée, two ounces of butter, one half pint of cream, two table spoonful of tomato sauce.
 The beans must have been soaked overnight in cold water, and when ready to begin the preparation of the purée, the water must be drained off, and the soaked beans put on to boil in the stock.
 When the stock boils, the vegetables, the bouquet garnée, and the butter must be added, and these together allowed to boil for two hours, when it should be taken from the fire and passed twice through a fine sieve. The cream and the tomato sauce should now be put in, also the pepper and salt, of which one half salt spoonful of each is sufficient, and the whole be brought to the boiling point, great care being taken to take it from the fire the instant this point is reached, or· the cream will curdle and the dish be spoiled.
 NOTE.- To prepare a "bouquet garnée," tie a morsel of celery and a sprig of thyme into a bay leaf.
 The small dry white bean, such as is commonly used for baking, may be used in making this purée.
  
 Purée of Green Pease.- Take for this:
 One quart of shelled peas, one and one half pints of white stock, one Bermuda onion, two ounces of butter, three table spoonful of cream, one teaspoonful of sugar, one half salt spoonful of salt, and an equal amount of pepper.
 Put first the peas, the onion, and the stock into a saucepan, and boil them together twenty or thirty minutes; after which pass the whole through a sieve, in order that the stock may become smoothly thickened with the peas and the skins removed. Add then to this mixture the cream, the butter, and the sugar, and let all be brought to the point of boiling, keeping in mind that the cream has been added and will curdle if permitted to remain upon the fire an instant too long.
 Season now with the pepper and salt and serve very hot.
 NOTE.- The peas for this purée should be very young, in order that the colour of the dish may be a pretty bright green.
  
 Tomato Purée.- For this provide:
 One quart of canned tomatoes, one and one half pints of white stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one teaspoonful of sugar, one gill of cream, one half salt spoonful of salt, and as much pepper.
 In preparing this purée, begin with boiling the tomatoes and the stock together for three quarters of an hour. Pass both then through a fine sieve, and while straining, melt in the saucepan the butter, into which stir the flour, and returning the strained liquor then to the saucepan, stir all together until it boils.
 Now add the sugar, the  pepper, and  the salt, and pour the purée into the tureen; after which add the cream, which, if otherwise clone, will be almost certain to curdle with the sour of the tomatoes.
  
 PURÉES.- SECOND DIVISION.
 Asparagus Purée.- For this there will be required:
 One bundle of asparagus, five ounces of butter, one and one half ounces of flour, three pints of white stock, one half pint of cream, one half salt spoonful of salt, and the same quantity of pepper.
 The asparagus has first to be treated by breaking off the tender tips and putting them aside, then blanch the remaining pieces in boiling water, drain them thoroughly, and place them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter and flour. Stir all together for five minutes, taking great care to prevent browning, then add the stock, and let all boil slowly, until the asparagus is tender. When this is accomplished pass the whole through a fine sieve and returning it to the saucepan allow it to simmer for twenty minutes, after which add the remaining three ounces of butter. Boil the cream in a separate saucepan and add just before serving. Have ready in a tureen the asparagus tips, having previously boiled them in salt and water, and pour over the purée as soon as the cream has been added.
  
 Turnip Purée.- Materials to be used in the following quantities:
 One and one half pounds of turnip, one ounce of flour, three pints of white stock, three ounces of rice, three ounces of butter, one half pint of double cream, one half salt spoonful of salt, and an equal quantity of pepper and sugar.
 Blanch the turnips with plenty of boiling water to keep them white, then soak them in cold water for one hour. Melt in a saucepan two ounces of butter, stir into this the flour and two pints of the white stock. Stir the compound now until it boils, and then put in the turnips, pepper, salt, and sugar, having well drained and dried the turnips after taking them from the water. This must simmer until the turnips are tender, when it should be passed through a sieve and the remainder of the stock added, bringing all again to the boiling point. The rice should now be washed well and boiled in two quarts of water for twenty minutes, when the water should be well drained from it, and the rice placed in the tureen, the purée poured over it, adding then the cream and the remaining ounce of butter, stirring all until the butter melts, when it is ready for immediate serving.
 NOTE.- The turnips must be weighed after being pared, and should be pared thickly, as the outside is always bitter.
  
 Potato Purée.- For this should be furnished: one pound of potatoes, one Bermuda onion, two leaves of celery, one and one half pints of whole stock, one gill of single cream, one ounce of butter, one half salt spoonful of salt, and the same amount of pepper.
 So provided, put into the saucepan the potatoes, pared and sliced, the celery, onion, and butter, stirring all over the fire for five minutes, taking care that they do not discolour. Add now one pint of stock, and let it boil slowly until the potatoes are cooked, then pass all through a sieve, using the remaining one half pint of stock hot, to prevent the gluten of the potatoes from stiffening and clogging in the sieve. The saucepan should then be well washed and the purée returned to it, the cream, pepper, and salt added, and stirred until it boils.
 This should be served with fried bread or asparagus tips, arranging either in the tureen as before directed, and pouring the purée over.
 NOTE.- By single cream, that is meant which arises in twelve hours. Double cream arises in twenty-four· hours, and cream for butter in forty-eight hours.
  
 GENERAL NOTES ON PURÉES.- These purées are intended to suffice for serving four persons; and the apparent inequality of liquids used will be found to correspond with the different lengths of time for boiling, which is, of course, the reducing process.
 If it should happen that the purée is thickened unduly by boiling too quickly, this fault may be remedied by adding more of the stock while it is being passed through the sieve.
  
  
 OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH.
 FIRST DIVISION.
 Oyster Soup à la Reiné.- One quart of oysters, one pint of white stock, one half pint of cream, one and one half ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one blade of mace, one grain of cayenne, one teaspoonful of salt, and half as much pepper.
 Drain first the liquor from the oysters, and putting the liquor over the fire, bring it to the boiling point.
 In a separate saucepan melt the butter, stir into it the flour, and pour in the stock. Add also the mace, pepper, cayenne, and salt, and let all boil for ten minutes, when the oysters should be added. Watch the oysters closely, and when the leaves begin to shrivel, pour the soup into the tureen, and add thereto the cream, which must have been made boiling hot.
 NOTE.- The great difficulty to be surmounted in making this soup, is bringing the cream and liquor together without curdling, which is obviated by boiling each separately.
  
 Fish Chowder.- For this are required one large haddock, weighing about two pounds, three Bermuda onions, one quarter pound pork, six potatoes, one tablespoonful chopped parsley, one dessertspoonful chopped thyme, one-fourth of a can tomatoes, one dessertspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, one half wineglassful of Worcestershire sauce, two ounces of butter.
 When the haddock has been cleaned and well washed, place it in a saucepan, cover it well with cold water, add a pinch of salt, place the saucepan on the fire, and when the water in it boils remove the haddock. Remove from the haddock all skin and bone, throw them into the water in the saucepan, and allow the water to boil for twenty minutes very slowly.
 While the water is boiling, melt in a frying pan the butter, and put into the same when hot the pork and the onions, cut into very thin pieces, and fry to a light brown.
 Put this preparation into a saucepan with the potatoes boiled and mashed, and add the parsley, thyme, and tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and salt; pour over this the liquor (which has been boiling on the fish bones and skin) through a strainer and allow all to simmer slowly thirty minutes. Just before serving add the pieces of haddock previously separated from the bone and skin.
  
 Oyster Soup.- Procure one quart of oysters, one pint of milk, three ounces of butter, one grain of cayenne, one half teaspoonful of salt, one salt spoonful of pepper, one ounce of flour.
 The oysters must first be strained, and the liquor brought to boiling point, and then thoroughly skimmed.
 Melt then the butter in a separate saucepan, add to it the flour, then the milk, and stir the mixture until it boil. Add now the pepper, salt, cayenne, and oysters, which, if large, should be cut into pieces; pour over this the boiling liquor, allowing all to cook for five minutes, when the oysters will begin to show their leaves. Serve very hot.
  
 OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH.
 SECOND DIVISION.
 Fricassee of Oyster.- Procure for this:
 Twenty-five oysters, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one grain of cayenne, one grain of grated nutmeg, a piece of salt the size of a pea, one half a salt spoonful of pepper.
 Bring first the oysters in their own liquor to the boiling point, and when this is reached strain them, and put the oysters, for the time, aside. Melt now, in a separate saucepan, the butter, and add thereto the flour, together with one teacupful of the strained liquor. Cook this for about two minutes, to give the mixture consistency, and then taking the saucepan from the fire, drop in the yolks of the eggs, one by one, stirring quickly until all is well mixed together. Add then the lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cayenne, when the whole should be placed again over the fire, stirred briskly to prevent boiling, and allowed to become very hot. Just before serving drop in the oysters and serve on buttered toast.
  
 Fried Oysters.- Provide for this:
 Twenty-five large oysters, two table spoonful of flour, four table spoonful of milk, four table spoonful of cracker dust, two eggs, four heaped table spoonful of breadcrumbs, one salt spoonful of salt, one salt spoonful of pepper, one salt spoonful of grated nutmeg.
 Put the oysters into a strainer and drain them thoroughly of their liquor. Then upon a plate mix together the flour, milk, pepper, and salt; into which preparation dip the oysters one by one, using a fork, and taking care not to mutilate the oyster. Place now upon a sheet of kitchen paper the cracker dust, and putting the oysters therein, lift the sheet of paper by its opposite sides, and roll them in the dust from side to side. The oysters should now be removed to a plate and left standing for half an hour, in order that'
  
 the juices may drain out and harden the cracker dust encasing them. Heat meantime in a stew pan one pound of clarified fat, and when the blue smoke arises therefrom throw in a peeled potato to keep it from burning. Upon a plate beat now the two eggs, dip the oysters one by one into them, then roll them in the breadcrumbs, which have been made ready upon the kitchen paper, and with which has been put the nutmeg, and drop them lightly into the hot clarified fat, letting them remain therein for three minutes. Before serving, put them for a moment upon a clean sheet of kitchen paper, that it may absorb the extraneous fat.
 NOTE.- It is important to avoid touching the oysters with the heated hands, as it makes them both tough and heavy.
 Clarified fat and lard boil at about 500 degrees, which is more than double the heat of boiling water. At 375 degrees the blue smoke arises from these heated substances, which is the cooking point, and boiling fat or lard will burn to a cinder instantly anything that is put into it.
 The peeled potato prevents burning, as it furnishes an object for the fat to act upon, and so keeps it from growing hotter: a piece of hard bread will answer the same purpose.
 A large quantity of fat is used in this recipe, but its extravagance is tempered by the fact that the same fat may be used over and over again until the heating property is exhausted.
 The reason for allowing the oysters to stand for thirty minutes, after being rolled in the cracker dust, is, that unless so permitted to harden, the egg with which the oyster is subsequently treated would not adhere, but merely draw the cracker dust off, making it thus necessary to pack these substances on with the hands, and a heavy, soggy dish would be the consequence.
 Fried oysters must be quickly cooked and as quickly served.
 Recipe for clarifying fat on page 247.
  
 Scalloped Oysters.- Provide for this one quart of oysters, six ounces of breadcrumbs, three ounces of butter, one grain cayenne, one salt spoonful grated nutmeg, one salt spoonful mace, one wineglassful sherry.
 Bring the oysters to boiling point and drain from them their liquor. Melt in a small pan one ounce of the  butter.
 When melted, skim carefully, and draw the pan on one side.
 Mix well with the breadcrumbs the mace, nutmeg, and cayenne. Put in a deep dish alternate layers of the oysters and seasoned breadcrumbs, and over each layer of oysters distribute small pieces of the unmelted butter. When the last layer of breadcrumbs is sprinkled over the top, pour over the strained liquor, the sherry, and also the melted butter. Place the dish in a moderate oven and bake for two hours.
  
 Oysters à la Créme.- Materials and quantities as follows: Twenty-five large oysters, one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, one heaped tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, three and one half ounces of butter, one and one half ounce of flour, a piece of onion half the size of a nutmeg, one gill of cream, one half salt spoonful of grated nutmeg, one half salt spoonful of pepper, a piece of salt the size of a pea.
 The oysters should first be boiled in their own liquor for five minutes, after which strained, cut into rough pieces, and put upon a plate.  Season them then with the pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Melt the butter now in a fresh saucepan, adding thereto the flour and the cream, and boil all together for two minutes.  Take then the saucepan from the fire, put into it the oysters and the parsley and onion, chopped finely, as well.  This mixture must now be put nicely into large, deep oyster shells, the breadcrumbs sprinkled over each, and put into a quick oven until browned over the top.
 NOTE.- As the oysters used do not always furnish the proper shells for this preparation, it is well to select from time to time the shells from oysters used in other ways, and scrubbing them well, make a reserve of deep shells for this purpose.
  
 Broiled Oysters.- There will be required for this twenty-five large oysters, two table spoonful of flour, four table spoonful of milk, four table spoonful of cracker dust, two eggs, four heaped table spoonful of breadcrumbs, two ounces of butter, and the juice of half a lemon, one half a salt spoonful of salt, and an equal amount of pepper.
 Drain thoroughly the liquor from the oysters, mix upon a plate the flour, milk, pepper, and salt.
 Dip the oysters into this mixture, one by one, and, putting the cracker dust upon a sheet of kitchen paper, drop the oysters into the dust separately, and roll them from side to side by lifting the paper alternately at opposite corners. Return then to the plate, using a fork in the lifting, and let them stand for thirty minutes, that the dust may harden with the juice. Beat the eggs now until very light, and dip the oysters one by one therein, then into the breadcrumbs; and having lightly greased the broiler, put them into it, and broil for five minutes.
 In serving, put the butter upon them in small lumps, and squeeze over them the lemon juice.
 NOTE.- Before beginning the preparing of oysters in this manner, it would be well to read the notes on fried oysters, page 25.
  
 Oyster Croquettes.- Materials to be used in the following proportions: Twenty-five large oysters, one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, three and one hall ounces of butter, one and one half ounce of flour, one gill of cream, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one egg, three heaped table spoonful of breadcrumbs, one ball salt spoonful of pepper, and a piece of salt the size of a pea.
 The oysters should be boiled in their own liquor for five minutes, then strained, cut into rough pieces, and seasoned with the pepper and salt. The butter must then be melted in a fresh saucepan, the flour added, also the cream, and all cooked for two minutes. Remove the saucepan now from the fire, and put in the oysters, parsley, and lemon juice; after which mix all well together and turn out upon a plate, leaving it to cool for one hour.
 When cool, form the mixture into small balls; beat the egg very light, and roll them in it; after which put the breadcrumbs upon a sheet of kitchen paper, roll each ball therein from side to side separately, and fry in hot clarified fat or lard for two minutes.
 Put them as taken from the fat upon a piece of the kitchen paper for a moment, to drain the grease off, and serve on a heated napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley.
  
 OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH­
 SPECIAL DISHES.
 Oyster Balls.- One dozen oysters, two ounces of veal, two ounces of beef suet, one salt spoonful powdered mace, one quarter teaspoonful salt, one quarter teaspoonful pepper, three table spoonful breadcrumbs, one egg.
 Place the oysters and their liquor in a saucepan, place the pan over the fire, and just allow the liquor to come to the boiling point. Strain the oysters from the liquor and chop them very finely. Remove the skin from the suet and chop it very finely. Chop very finely the veal. Place the oysters, veal, and suet in a basin; add the mace, pepper, and salt. Stir all well with a spoon, drop in the yolk of egg, stir again together.
 Flour slightly a board, and roll the mixture into small balls, beat up the white of egg on a plate, roll each ball in it. Place on a sheet of paper the breadcrumbs and roll each ball in it. Half fill a saucepan with clarified fat, heat it over the fire until the smoke rises. Drop in one by one the balls and cook them for two minutes. Take them out one by one and drain them for a second on a sheet of kitchen paper. Serve on a hot napkin and garnish with parsley.
  
 Crab Pie or Devil Crabs.- Provide two crabs, three ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of milk, one gill of cream, one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, one tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, one salt spoonful of pepper, one half salt spoonful of salt.
 First throw the crabs into boiling water and boil them for quarter of an hour. Pick the meat then from the shells, taking care not to break the shells, as they are to be used as natural bake pans for the pie. Cut the meat into irregular pieces, and put them in readiness for use; then, taking a fresh saucepan, melt two ounces of the butter, to which add the flour, milk, and cream, and boil all for two minutes.
 The saucepan must now be taken from the fire, and the anchovy sauce, pepper and salt, and meat from the crabs added. When this is mixed thoroughly together, arrange it smoothly in the shells, sprinkle thickly with the breadcrumbs, putting the remaining butter in small pieces on the top of each, and brown in a quick oven.
  
 Lobster Cutlets.- Place in readiness one lobster, one and one half ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of cold water, one tablespoonful of cream, one half teaspoonful of lemon juice, one grain of cayenne, one salt spoonful of salt, one salt spoonful of pepper, one egg, three table spoonful of breadcrumbs.
 The lobster should be put into boiling water for twenty minutes; after which the head must be twisted off, and the coral that runs down the back removed. Beat this coral with half an ounce of butter together in a mortar; and to make it perfectly smooth rub it through a wire sieve. Now melt in a saucepan the remainder of the butter, add thereto the flour· and cold water, stir all until the water boil, and then allow it to boil two minutes.
 Take it now from the fire, and add the coral, cream, pepper and salt, lemon juice and cayenne. When this is done, cut the lobster into small convenient pieces, and mix them well with the contents of the saucepan. Turn all now out upon a plate and set to cool for one hour. When cool, divide into five pieces, and form into cutlets similar in shape to cutlets of lamb. Dip them lightly into the egg, which must have been well beaten; roll them in the breadcrumbs, which must have been placed upon kitchen paper for the purpose, from side to side; and fry for two minutes in hot clarified fat or lard. When done, put them to drain for a moment upon a clean piece of kitchen paper, and serve on a hot napkin garnished with the claws of the lobster.
 NOTE.- The female lobster should be selected for this dish, as it alone furnishes the coral which gives both a delicious flavour and beautiful colour to the composition.
  
 Curried Lobster.- One large lobster, one half pint second stock, one dessertspoonful curry powder, one small onion, one salt spoonful salt, one salt spoonful pepper, one teaspoonful lemon juice, one dessertspoonful cream or milk, one half ounce butter.
 Remove all the meat from the lobster, cut it in small pieces, melt in a small saucepan the butter, and throw in the onion, which must first be soaked overnight in boiling water, dried in a towel, and chopped very finely. When the onion takes a pale brown colour, stir in the curry powder and pepper and salt. Smooth out all the lumps in the powder and add by degrees (stirring well meanwhile) the stock. When this boils, throw in the pieces of lobster, and cook all very slowly for half an hour or three quarters. When ready to serve, draw the pan from the fire, and stir in the cream or milk and lemon juice, and do not again allow it to boil.
 Serve the curry on a very hot dish and send to table with quarter of a pound boiled rice in a separate hot dish. Directions for boiling the rice will be found on page 237.
 NOTE.- A little more than half of a pound of tinned lobster may be used instead of the fresh lobster.
  
 Eel Pie.- Six eels, one half pound lean ham, one half pound suet, one teaspoonful salt, one grain cayenne, one half teaspoonful pepper, one salt spoonful mace, one salt spoonful nutmeg, the rind of half a lemon, one half teaspoonful chopped parsley, one half teaspoonful mixed herbs, one egg, one large sprig parsley, two cloves, half a bay leaf, one half teaspoonful arrowroot, one half pint cream, one small bunch savoury herbs, one pint of stock.
 Skin the eels, cut them in pieces about two inches long, place the pieces in a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and boil them three quarters of an hour.
 Place in a separate saucepan the stock, add the parsley, the cloves, the half bay leaf and the bunch of savoury herbs, and half of the salt. Place this over the fire to boil for half an hour, then strain the stock and return it to the saucepan, allow it to boil till reduced to half a pint. Mix then in a basin, till very smooth, the arrowroot and cream; add them to the stock in the saucepan, and boil for ten minutes longer. Chop now very finely the lean ham and the suet, place them in a basin, add the remainder of the salt, the pepper, cayenne, mace, nutmeg, lemon peel, the savoury herbs, and bind all together with the egg.
 Place this forcemeat in a pie dish, lay in the pieces of eel, and pour over the stock and cream from the saucepan. Cover the pie dish with puff paste. (See directions, page195.) Place the pie dish in a quick oven and bake twenty-five minutes.
  
 Fricassée of Lobster.- One lobster, one gill of cream, one gill and a half of milk, one half teaspoonful salt, one quarter teaspoonful pepper, one grain cayenne, one ounce and a half butter, the juice of half a lemon, one half ounce flour.
 Plunge a lobster into a large pan of boiling water and boil it for twenty minutes. Remove the meat from the lobster. Melt then in a saucepan the butter, add the flour, stir both well together; then add by degrees the milk and cream, stir till boiling; add the pepper, salt, and cayenne, then the meat from the lobster; cover the saucepan, draw it on one side, and let all simmer very slowly for ten minutes.
 Take the pan from the fire and put before serving on a very hot dish; stir in the lemon juice.