OBSERVATIONS.
  
 PARTICULAR attention is necessary to see that your pots, saucepans, &c. in which you intend to make soup are well tinned, and perfectly free from sand, dirt, or grease; otherwise your soups will be ill-tasted and pernicious to the constitution. Care must be paid in respect to the quantity of water, which should never be much more than you wish to have soup.
 Gravy-soup is invariably the best when the juices are fresh. Soups, when preserved, should be changed daily into fresh pans, well scalded; and they should on no account be kept in metal.
 When you make any kind of soups that have herbs or roots in them, remember to lay your meat at the bottom of the pan, with a piece of butter. Then cut the roots and herbs small, and, having laid them over your meat, cover your pot or saucepan very close, and place it over a slow fire, which will draw all the virtues out of the vegetables, and turn them to a good gravy. When your gravy is almost dried up, replenish it with water, and take off the fat. In the preparation of white soup, remember never to put in your cream till you take your soup off the fire; and the last thing you do must be the dishing of your soups, for some will get a skim over them by standing, and others will settle to the bottom, both which must be avoided. Lastly, let the ingredients of your soups and broths be so properly proportioned that they may not taste of one thing more than another; but that the taste be equal, and the whole of a fine and agreeable relish. If too thin, a little butter mixed with flour will always increase the richness, and give a proper thickness to the soup.
 Fat may be removed from the surface of soup by a teacupful of flour and water well mixed and boiled in.
 Soups require a considerable time to boil, and should, if convenient, be made one day before they are wanted; by which means the fat can be taken off when cold.
 Cowheel-jelly is a great improvement to soups, making them rich, but not fat; as are also truffles and morels.
  
 STRONG BROTH FOR SOUP AND GRAVY.
 Take a shin of beef, a knuckle of veal, and a scrag of mutton, and put them in five gallons of water; let it boil up, skim it clean, season with six large onions, four leeks, four heads of celery, and two carrots, two turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, six cloves, a dozen corns of allspice, and salt; skim it very clean, and let it stew gently for hours; strain it off, and put it by for use.
 When you want very strong gravy, take a slice of bacon, and lay it in a stewpan; a pound of beef, cut it thin, and lay it on the bacon; slice in a piece of carrot, an onion sliced, a crust of bread, a few sweet herbs, a little mace, cloves, nutmeg, whole pepper, and an anchovy; cover and set it on a slow fire for five or six minutes, and pour in a quart of the above gravy; cover it close, and let it boil softly till half is wasted. This will be a rich, high brown sauce for fish, fowl, or ragout.
  
 LEG OF BEEF.
 With a sharp knife cut off all the meat, leaving the gristly part
 fast to the bone; saw the bone into several pieces, and put them with three gallons of water, six onions, four carrots, sweet herbs, two leeks, a little allspice, salt, and black pepper, into an iron pot to stew over the fire all night. In the morning skim off the fat, and, having cut the meat into thick slices, fry it a nice brown with a part of the fat thus skimmed; the remainder will make good pie-crust. In the same pan fry six large onions; put these and the slices of meat, together with a quart of table-beer, into the pot with the liquor of the bones, adding more onions, carrots, turnips, &c. Let the whole stew gently eight hours; take up the meat, and strain the liquor over it.
  
 BEEF BROTH.
 Take a leg of beef, crack the bone in two or three parts, wash it clean, put it in a pot with a gallon of water, skim it, put in two or three blades of mace, a bundle of parsley, and a crust of bread. Boil it till the beef is tender, and the sinews. Toast bread, and cut it in dices, put it in a tureen, lay in the meat, and pour in the soup.
  
 BEEF GRAVY SOUP.
 Cut slices of lean beef, according to the quantity wanted, which place in a stewpan, upon sliced onions and roots, adding two spoonfuls of fat broth; soak this on a slow tire for half an hour, stirring it well. When it catches a proper colour, add thin broth made of suitable herbs, with a little salt over it.
  
 MUTTON BROTH.
 Take a neck of mutton of six pounds, cut it in two, boil the scrag in a gallon of water, skim it well, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and a good crust of bread. Let it boil an hour, then put in the other part of the mutton, a turnip or two, dried marigolds, a few chives chopped fine, a little parsley chopped small; put these in a quarter of an hour before the broth is done enough; season it with salt:–or you may put in a quarter of a pound of barley or rice at first. Some like it thickened with oatmeal, and some with bread; others season with mace instead of sweet herbs and onion. All this is fancy and different palates. If you boil turnips for sauce, do not boil all in the pot, it makes the broth too strong of them, but boil them in a saucepan.
  
 VEAL SOUP.
 Put into a pot three quarts of water, three onions cut small, one spoonful of black pepper pounded, and two of salt, with two or three slices of lean ham. Let it boil steadily two hours, skim it occasionally, then put into it a shin of veal; let it boil two hours longer, take out the slices of ham, and skim off the grease if any should rise. Take a gill of good cream, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of flour very nicely, and the yelks of two eggs beaten well; strain this mixture, and add some chopped parsley. Pour some soup on by degrees, stir it well, and pour it into the pot, continuing to stir until it has boiled two or three minutes to take off the raw taste of the eggs. If the cream be not perfectly sweet, and the eggs quite new, the thickening will curdle in the soup. For a change you may put a dozen ripe tomatos in, first taking off their skins by letting them stand a few minutes in hot water, when they may be easily peeled. When made in this way, you must thicken it with the flour only. Any part of the veal may be used, but the shin or knuckle is the nicest.
  
 PORTABLE SOUP
 Cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, one of beef, and the lean part of a ham. Lay the meat in a large caldron, with a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom, four ounces of anchovies, and two ounces of mace. Cut small six heads of clean washed celery, freed from green leaves, and put them into the caldron, with three large carrots cut thin. Cover all close, and set it on a moderate fire. When the gravy begins to draw, keep taking it off till it is all extracted; then cover the meat with water, let it boil gently for four hours, then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one-third. Strain the gravy drawn from the meat into a pan, and let it boil gently until it be of a glutinous consistence. Take care and skim off all the fat as it rises. Watch it when it is nearly done that it does not burn: next season it with Cayenne pepper, and pour it on flat earthen dishes a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand till the next day, and then cut it out by round tins larger than a dollar. Set the cakes in dishes in the sun to dry, and turn them often. When fully dried, put them into a tin box with a piece of clean white paper between each, and keep them in a dry place. If made in frosty weather it will soon become solid. This kind of soup is exceedingly convenient for private families; for by putting one of the cakes in a saucepan with about a pint of water and a little salt, a basin of good broth may be made in a few minutes. It will likewise make an excellent gravy for roast turkeys, fowls, and game.
  
 NEW-ENGLAND CHOWDER.
 Have a good haddock, cod, or any other solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches square, put a pound of fat salt pork in strips into the pot, set it on hot coals, and fry out the oil. Take out the pork and put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of onions in slices, then a layer of fish with slips of fat salt pork, then another layer of onions, and so on alternately until your fish is consumed. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot; season with black pepper and salt to your taste, and boil it for half an hour. Have ready some crackers soaked in water till they are a little softened; throw them into your chowder five minutes before you take it up. Serve in a tureen.
  
 RABBIT SOUP.
 Cut up two rabbits, put them into a pot with a piece of bacon, two onions chopped, a bundle of thyme and parsley, which must be taken out before the soup is thickened; add pepper, salt, pounded cloves, and mace. Put in a sufficient quantity of water, stew it gently three hours, thicken with a large spoonful of butter, and one of brown flour, with a glass of red wine. Boil it a few minutes longer, and serve it up with the nicest parts of the rabbits. Squirrels make soup equally good done the same way.
  
 A PEASE SOUP FOR WINTER.
 Take about four pounds of lean beef, cut it in small pieces, a pound of lean bacon, or pickled pork, set it on the fire with two gallons of water, let it boil, and skim it well; then put in six onions, two turnips, one carrot, and four heads of celery cut small, twelve corns of allspice, and put in a quart of split pease; boil it gently for three hours, strain them through a sieve, and rub the pease well through; then put the soup in a clean pot, and put in dried mint rubbed to powder. Cut the white of four heads of celery and two turnips in dices, and boil them in a quart of water for fifteen minutes; strain them off, and put them in the soup. Take a dozen of small rashers of bacon fried, and put them in the soup; season with pepper and salt to your liking; boil it up for fifteen minutes, then put it in a tureen, with dices of bread fried crisp.
 Note.–The liquor of a boiled leg of pork makes good soup.
  
 PEASE SOUP
 Should be made with split pease and a leg of pork; and having taken out and strained the liquor through a sieve, put a pint of split pease to five quarts of it, with celery to your fancy. Season with salt and black pepper. Any pieces of meat in the house will be an improvement to it, particularly ham-bones, roots of tongues, &c.
  
 PARTRIDGE SOUP.
 Take four old partridges, clean, skin, and cut them into pieces, with eight slices of ham, two heads of celery, and five onions cut into slices; fry them nicely brown in butter, but be careful to prevent them from burning. Then lay them in a stewpan with seven pints of boiling water, some peppercorns, a bit of beef or mutton, and a small portion of salt. Let the whole stew three hours, then strain it, and again put it in the stewpan, and place it on the fire till near boiling; then serve it up.
  
 PEPPER-POT
 Consists of equal portions of fish, flesh, fowls, and vegetables, with a small quantity of pulse. Two pounds of each will require six quarts of water. A small suet-dumpling may be boiled with it, and the fat should be carefully taken off as fast as it rises. Season with Cayenne and salt.
 The whole must be stewed till the meat is completely tender.
  
 CHICKEN BROTH.
 Put a young cock, after skinning him, and taking away the fat, and breaking him to pieces, into two quarts of water; add a crust of bread and two blades of mace. Boil this liquor well down, and then add a quart more of boiling water. Cover it close, let it boil about forty minutes, and then strain it off, seasoning.
  
 SOUP MAIGRE.
 Take of veal, beef cut into small pieces, and scrag of mutton, one pound each; put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water; put into a clean cloth one ounce of barley, an onion, a small bundle of sweet herbs, three or four heads of celery cut small, a little mace, two or three cloves, three turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot cut into small pieces, and a young lettuce. Cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for six hours. Then take out the spice, sweet herbs, and onion, and pour all into a soup-dish seasoned with salt.
  
 CURRY.
 Take the skin off two chickens, carve, wash, and dry them; put them in a stewpan with a teacupful of water, salt, and a few onions, and stew them with a few green peas, or the egg-plant, till tender; then take a lump of butter (the size of a pigeon’s egg), a little mace, Cayenne pepper to taste, a teaspoonful each of fresh turmeric and cardamoms, pounded with a eschallot in a marble mortar; roll these ingredients with a little flour in the butter, and dissolve them in the stew. If the curry is to be brown, it must be fried a little before the curry-ball is added to the gravy.
 Another.–Carve a pair of fat young fowls with a sharp knife, precisely as if at table; dust them with flour, fry them in butter till they are well browned, lay them in a stewpan with slips of four large onions, add boiling water to the browning, &c. left in the pan, give it a boil, and pour the whole over your chicken. If not liquor enough to rather more than cover it, add hot water. Put on the lid of your pan, and set it on hot coals. In half an hour take out a cup of the gravy, mix it well with a tablespoonful of curry-powder, and throw it again into the pan. Stir it well round; taste and see if your gravy is warm; if not, add Cayenne. Bubble the whole quietly till the fowls are tender. Serve in a deep dish with boiled rice.
  
 OYSTER SOUP.
 Make your stock of liquor to the quantity of two quarts with any sort of fish the place affords; put one pint of oysters (bearded) into a saucepan, strain the liquor, stew them five minutes in their own liquor; then pound the hard parts of the oyster in a mortar with the yelks of three hard eggs, mix them with some of the soup, then lay them with the remainder of the oysters and liquor in a saucepan, with nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, when they will be done.
  
 EEL SOUP.
 Take two pounds of eels, two quarts of water, a crust of bread, six blades of mace, two onions, a few corns of whole pepper, and a bundle of sweet herbs; boil them till half the liquor is wasted, then strain it, and serve it up with toasted bread.
  
 POOR MAN’S SOUP.
 Pick a handful of parsley leaves, mince them fine, and strew over a little salt; shred six green onions, and put them with the parsley in a sauce-boat. Add three tablespoonfuls of oil and vinegar, with some pepper and salt.
  
 A CHEAP RICE AND MEAT SOUP.
 Put a pound of rice and a little pepper and broth herbs into two quarts of water; cover them close, and simmer very softly; put in a little cinnamon, two pounds of good ox-cheek, and boil the whole till the goodness is incorporated by the liquor.
  
 COLOURING FOR SOUPS OR GRAVIES.
 Take eight ounces of loaf-sugar, two gills of water, one ounce of fine butter, and place it in a small saucepan over the fire, observing to stir it constantly with a wooden spoon till it acquires a fine brown colour; then add a pint of water, when it must be again boiled, and carefully freed from scum. When cold, bottle, and cork it well.
  
 ROASTING.
 TO ROAST MEATS, ETC,
 THE first thing requisite for roasting is to have a strong, steady fire, or a clear, brisk one, according to the size and weight of the joint that is put down to the spit. A cook who does not attend to this will prove herself totally incompetent to roast victuals properly. All roasting should be done open to the air, to ventilate the meat from its gross fumes, otherwise it becomes baked instead of roasted. The joint should be put down at such a distance from the fire as to imbibe the heat rather quickly, otherwise its plumpness and good quality will be gradually dried up, and it will turn shrivelly, and look meager. When the meat is first put down, it is necessary to see that it balances well on the spit, otherwise the process of cooking will be very troublesome. When it is warm, begin to baste it well, which prevents the nutritive juices escaping, and, if required, additional dripping must be used for that purpose.
 As to sprinkling with salt while roasting, most able cooks dispense with it, as the penetrating particles of the salt have a tendency to draw out the animal juices; however, a little salt thrown on when first laid down is sometimes necessary with strong meats. When the smoke draws towards the fire, and the dropping of the clear gravy begins, it is a sure sign that the joint is nearly done. Then take off the paper, baste well, and dredge it with flour, which brings on that beautiful brownness which makes roasted meats look so inviting.
 With regard to the time necessary for roasting various meats, it will vary according to the different sorts, the time it has been kept, and the temperature of the weather. In summer, twenty minutes may be reckoned equal to half an hour in winter. A good screen to keep off the chilling currents of air is essentially useful. The old housewife’s rule is, to allow rather more than a quarter of an hour to each pound; and, in most instances, it proves practically correct.
 In roasting mutton or lamb, the loin, the chine, and the saddle must have the skin raised and skewered on; and, when nearly done, take off this skin, and baste and flour to froth it up.
 Veal requires roasting brown, and if a fillet or loin be sure to paper the fat, that as little of it may be lost as possible. When nearly done, baste it with butter, and dredge with flour.
 Pork should be well done. When roasting a loin, cut the skin across with a sharp knife, otherwise the crackling is very awkward to manage. Stuff the knuckle part with sage and onion, and skewer it up. Put a little drawn gravy in the dish, and serve it up with apple-sauce in a tureen. A sparerib should be basted with a little butter, a little dust of flour, and some sage and onions shred small. Apple-sauce is the only one which suits this dish.
 Wild fowls require a clear, brisk fire, and should be roasted till they are of a light brown, but not too much; yet it is a common fault to roast them till the gravy runs out, thereby losing their fine flavour.
 Tame fowls require more roasting, as the heat is longer in penetrating. They should be often basted, in order to keep up a strong froth, and to improve their plumpness.
 Pigs and geese should be thoroughly roasted before a good fire, and turned quickly.
 Hares and rabbits require time and care, especially to have the ends sufficiently done, and to remedy that raw discolouring at the neck, &c. which proves often so objectionable at table.
  
 TO REGULATE TIME IN COOKERY.
 Mutton.–A leg of 8lbs. will require two hours and a half. A chine or saddle of 10 or 11lbs., two hours and a half. A shoulder of 7lbs., one hour and a half. A loin of 7 lbs., one hour and three-quarters. A neck and breast, about the same time as a loin.
 Beef.–The sirloin of 15lbs., from three hours and three-quarters to four hours. Ribs of beef from 15 to 20lbs. will take three hours to three hours and a half.
 Veal.–A fillet from 12 to 16lbs. will take from four to five hours at a good fire. A loin, upon the average, will take three hours. A shoulder, from three hours to three hours and a half. A neck, two hours. A breast, from an hour and a half to two hours.
 Lamb.–Hind-quarter of 9lbs. will take from an hour and three­quarters to two hours. Fore-quarter of 10lbs., about two hours. Leg of 5lbs., from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Shoulder, or breast, with a quick fire, an hour.
 Pork.–A leg of 8lbs. will require about three hours. Griskin, an hour and a half. A sparerib of 8 or 9lbs. will take from two hours and a half to three hours to roast it thoroughly. A bald sparerib of 8lbs., an hour and a quarter. A loin of 5lbs., if very fat, from two hours to two hours and a half. A sucking-pig of three weeks old, about an hour and a half.
 Poultry.– A very large turkey will require about three hours; one of l0lbs., two hours. A small one, an hour and a half.
 A full-grown fowl, an hour and a quarter; a moderate sized one, an hour.
 A pullet, from half an hour to forty minutes.
 A goose, full grown, from an hour and a half to two hours. A green goose, forty minutes.
 A duck, full size, from thirty to fifty minutes.
 Venison.–A buck-haunch which weighs from 20 to 25lbs. will take about four hours and a half roasting; one from 12 to 18lbs. will take three hours and a quarter.
  
 BEEF.
 Be sure to paper the top, and baste it well, while roasting, and throw a handful of salt on it. When you see the smoke draw to the fire, it is near enough; take off the paper, baste it well, and dredge it with a little flour to make a fine froth. Never salt roast meat before you lay it to the fire, for it draws out the gravy. If you would keep it a few days before you dress it, dry it with a cloth, and hang it where the air will come to it. Be sure there is no damp place about it. When you take up your meat, garnish the dish with horseradish.
  
 TO MAKE A FILLET OF DEEF.
 Hang four ribs for as many days, then cut out all the bones, after which sprinkle all with salt, roll the meat very tight, and roast it. When dressed, it looks beautiful, and eats far better than when dressed with the bones.
  
 HUNTER’S BEEF.
 To a round of beef, boned, that weighs thirty pounds, and has hung four days, take four ounces of coarse sugar, the same quantity of saltpetre, two ounces of cloves, two nutmegs, an ounce of allspice, and half a pound of common salt; reduce these ingredients to a fine powder, which must be rubbed well into the meat. When this is done, the beef must be turned and rubbed every day for a month.
 When the beef is to be dressed, a little water must be thrown over it to wash off the loose spice; it must then be bound well up, and put into an earthen pan, with half a pint of water at the bottom, and plentifully covered with finely chopped suet, and the whole covered down with thick, coarse crust, and brown paper. Then put it in an oven, and let it bake seven or eight hours; after which, remove the paste and binding. When done in this manner, it eats extremely fine, and will keep a long time.
  
 MUTTON AND LAMB.
 In roasting of mutton, the loin, haunch, and saddle must be done as the beef above; but all other sorts of mutton and lamb must be roasted with a quick, clear fire, and without paper. Baste it when you lay it down; and just before you take it up dredge it with a little flour; but be sure not to use too much, for that takes away all the fine taste of the meat. Some choose to skin a loin of mutton, and roast it brown without paper; but that you may do just as you please. But be sure always to take the skin off a breast of mutton.
  
 TO RAGOUT A LEG OF MUTTON.
 Carefully separate the skin and fat, then cut the flesh off the right way of the grain in thin pieces, butter the stewpan and dust it with flour, lay in the meat with a lemon, one onion cut very small, some sweet herbs, and mace. Stir the whole for a few minutes, then add half a pint of strong gravy, two minced anchovies, and some butter rolled in flour. Stir the whole up again for ten minutes, and then serve it up.
  
 ROAST VEAL.
 Be careful to roast veal a fine brown; at first, keep it some distance from the fire. Baste a shoulder well till nearly done; after which, flour and baste it with a little butter. It may be stuffed or not, as agreeable. A loin should be covered with clean paper; and if a breast with the caul, with the sweetbread fastened on the backside with a skewer. When nearly done, take off the caul, baste it, and dredge it with flour. A fillet must be stuffed with the following ingredients:–thyme, marjoram, parsley, savoury, finely minced lemon-peel, mace, pepper, nutmeg, with bread-crumbs; to which add two eggs, and four ounces of marrow-suet: lay this stuffing in the udder, and, if any remain, in such holes as you think proper made in the fleshy part. Serve with melted butter, and garnish with the lemon-peel sliced.
  
 VEAL CUTLETS.
 Slice your veal, lard it with bacon, season with nutmeg, pepper, salt, lemon-thyme, and sweet marjoram; wash them with eggs first, and then strew over the seasoning; dip them in melted butter, and wrap them in buttered white paper. Then broil them on a gridiron at some distance from the fire; when done enough take off the paper, serve with gravy, and garnish with sliced lemon.
  
 VEAL CUTLETS, FRIED,
 Take your slices of veal, beat them, and wet them with eggs; then make a seasoning of bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, into which dip them; then fry them in butter nicely brown. They eat exceedingly well without herbs.
  
 TO BROIL.
 This culinary branch is very confined, but excellent as respects chops or steaks; to cook which in perfection, the fire should be clear and brisk, and the gridiron set on it slanting to prevent the fat dropping in it. In addition, quick and frequent turning will ensure good flavour in the taste of the article cooked.
  
 ROAST PORK.
 Lay it at some distance from the fire, and flour it well. When the flour dries, wipe the pork clean with a coarse cloth; then cut the skin in rows with a sharp knife, put your meat closer to the fire, and roast it as quick as possible. Baste with butter and a little dry sage. Some persons add onions finely shred.
  
 TO ROAST A PIG.
 Spit a pig and lay it to the fire, which must be a very good one at each end, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay the pig down, take a little sage shred small, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and pepper and salt; put them in the pig, and sew it up with coarse thread; flour it well over, and keep flouring it till the eyes drop out, or till you find the crackling hard. Be sure to save all the gravy that comes out of it, which you must do by setting basins or pans under the pig, in the dripping-pan, as soon as you find the gravy begins to run. When the pig is done enough, stir the fire up brisk; take a coarse cloth with about a quarter of a pound of butter in it, and rub the pig over till the crackling is crisp; then take it up. Lay it in a dish, and with a sharp knife cut off the head; then cut the pig in two before you draw out the spit. Cut the ears off the head, and lay them at each end; cut the under jaw in two, and lay on each side; melt some good butter, take the gravy you saved and put in it, boil it, and pour it in the dish with the brains bruised fine and the sage mixed together; and then send it to table.
  
 ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST A PIG.
 Chop sage and onion very fine, a few crumbs of bread, a little butter, pepper, and salt rolled up together; put it in the belly, and sew it up. Before you lay down the pig, rub it all over with sweet oil. When done, take a dry cloth and wipe it; then put it in a dish, and cut it up.
  
 TO FRY CALF’S LIVER AND PORK.
 Fry the pork and parsley first, then put in the liver. The liver should be soaked in water half an hour, then cut in slices, and dried well with a cloth, and floured. After it is done, mix a little flour in a teacupful of water, with a small piece of butter, and a little salt; pour it into the pan, and stir it well. When boiled, pour it over the liver and pork, and serve it up.
  
 TO BAKE A PIG.
 If you cannot roast a pig, lay it in a dish, flour it all over well, and rub it over with butter; butter the dish you lay it in, and put it in the oven. When it is done enough, draw it out of the oven’s mouth, and rub it over with a buttery cloth; then put it in the oven again till it is dry. Take it out and lay it in a dish, cut it up, take a little veal gravy, and take off the fat in the dish it was baked in, and there will be some good gravy at the bottom; put that to it, with a little piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil it up, and put it in the dish with the brains and sage in the belly. Some like a pig brought whole to table; then you are only to put what sauce you like in the dish.
  
 TO ROAST A LEG OF PORK.
 Take a small one, and slit the knuckle; fill the opening with sage, onion, crumbs of bread, pepper, and salt. When half-done, score the outer skin with a sharp knife. Serve with apple-sauce.
  
 PORK STEAKS.
 Cut them of a proper thickness, pepper, salt, and broil them, observing to turn them frequently; when nearly done, add a little salt, and rub them with butter. Serve them hot and hot.
  
 SAUSAGES.
 Chop fat and lean pork or beef well together, season with sage, pepper, salt, allspice, and nutmeg; then lay it in a pan, tie it well down, and keep it for use, for which purpose roll it, dust it with flour, and fry it nicely brown; or it may be stuffed in well cleaned hog’s guts, in which case you must add to the meat a fourth part of bread-crumbs soaked in water. When dressed, observe to prick them with a fork, otherwise they will burst.
  
 CALF’S HEART, ROASTED
 Having made a forcemeat of grated bread, a quarter of a pound of beef-suet chopped small, a little parsley, sweet marjoram, and lemon-peel, mixed up with a little white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yelk of an egg, fill the heart with it, and lay a veal caul over the stuffing, or a sheet of writing-paper, to keep it in its place, and keep turning it till it is thoroughly roasted. Serve with good gravy under it.
 N. B. A bullock’s heart is done in the same manner.
  
 TO ROAST HARES OR RABBITS.
 When you have cased them, skewer their heads with their mouths upon their backs, stick their fore-legs into their ribs, and skewer the hind-legs doubled; then make a pudding for them of the crumb of half a loaf of bread, a little parsley, sweet marjoram, and thyme, all shred fine, nutmeg, salt, and pepper to your taste: mix them up into a light stuffing with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little good cream, and two eggs; put it into the body, and sew them up. Dredge and baste them well with lard, roast them nearly an hour, serve them up with parsley and butter for sauce, chop the livers, and lay them in lumps round the edge of the dish.
  
 TO ROAST VENISON.
 Take a haunch of venison, and spit it; well butter four sheets of paper, and put two on the haunch; then make a paste with flour, butter, and water, roll it out half as big as the haunch, and put it over the fat part; then put the other two sheets of paper on, and tie them with packthread; lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well all the time of roasting. If a large haunch of 24lbs., it will take three hours and a half, except it is a very large fire; then three hours will do: smaller in proportion.
  
 TO DRESS A HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
 Hang it up a fortnight, and dress it as directed for a haunch of venison.
  
 DIFFERENT SORTS OF SAUCE FOR VENISON.
 Take either of these sauces for venison:–Currant jelly warmed; or half a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound or sugar, simmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes; or half a pint of vinegar and a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered to sirup.
  
 TO ROAST MUTTON VENISON-FASHION.
 Take a hind-quarter of fat mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch; lay it in a pan, with the back side of it down; pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie twenty-four hours: spit it, and baste it with the same liquor, and butter all the time it is roasting at a quick fire, and an hour and a half will do it. Have a good gravy in a cup, and sweet sauce in another. A good fat neck of mutton eats finely done thus.
  
 TO ROAST A TURKEY.
 Make the forcemeat thus:–Take the crumb of a loaf of bread, a quarter of a pound of beef-suet shred fine, a little sausage-meat or veal scraped and pounded very fine, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your taste; mix it lightly with three eggs, stuff the craw with it, spit it, and lay it down a good distance from the fire, which should be clear and brisk; dust and baste it several times with cold lard,–it makes the froth stronger than basting it out of the dripping-pan, and makes the turkey rise better; when it is done enough, froth it up as before, dish it, and pour on gravy as for the boiled turkey, or bread-sauce; garnish with lemon and pickles, and serve it up. If it be of a middle size, it will require one hour and a quarter to roast.
  
 TO MAKE SAUCE FOR A TURKEY.
 Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread in thin slices, and put it in cold water with a few peppercorns, a little salt, and onion; then boil it till the bread is quite soft, beat it well, put in a quarter of a pound of butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, and put it in the dish with the turkey.
  
 TO BROIL STEAKS.
 First have a very clear, brisk fire; let your gridiron be very clean, put it on the fire, take a chafingdish, with a few hot coals out of the fire, put the dish on it which is to lay your steaks on; then take fine rumpsteaks half an inch thick, put a little pepper and salt on them, lay them on the gridiron, and, if you like it, take a eschalot or two, or a good onion, and cut it fine; put it in a dish. Do not turn your steak till the one side is done; then, when you turn the other side, there will soon be a fine gravy lie on the top of the steak, which you must be careful not to lose. When the steaks are done enough, take them carefully off into your dish, that none of the gravy be lost. Have ready a hot dish and cover, and carry them hot to table.
  
 DIRECTIONS CONCERNING THE SAUCE FOR STEAKS.
 If you have pickles or horseradish with steaks, never garnish your dish, because the garnish will be dry and the steaks cold; lay those things on little plates, and carry to table. The great nicety is to have them hot and full of gravy.
  
 TO ROAST A GOOSE.
 Chop a few sage-leaves and two onions very fine, mix them with a good lump of butter, a teaspoonful of pepper, and two of salt; put it in the goose. Then spit it, lay it down, and dust it with flour; when it is thoroughly hot, baste it with nice lard. If it be a large one, it will require an hour and a half before a good clear fire. When it is done enough, dredge and baste it, pull out the spit, and pour in a little boiling water. It may be stuffed with bread or potatoes.
  
 A SAUCE FOR A GOOSE.
 Pare, core, and slice some apples, put them in a saucepan with as much water as will keep them from burning, set them over a very slow fire, keep them closely covered till reduced to a pulp; then put in a lump of butter and sugar to your taste, beat them well, and send them to the table in a china bowl.
  
 TO ROAST WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.
 Put them on a little spit, take a round of a small loaf, and toast it brown, then lay it in a dish under the birds; baste them with a little butter, and let the trale drop on the toast. When they are roasted, put the toast in the dish, lay the woodcocks on it, and have a quarter of a pint of gravy; pour it in a dish, and set it over a lamp or chafingdish for three minutes; and send them to table.
 You are to observe, never to take any thing out of a woodcock or snipe.
  
 TO ROAST PIGEONS.
 Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and a little pepper and salt; tie the neck-end tight; tie a string round the legs and rump, and fasten the other end to the top of the chimney-piece. Baste with butter, and when they are done enough, lay them in a dish, and they will swim with gravy. You may put them on a little spit, and tie both ends close.
  
 TO BROIL PIGEONS.
 When you broil them, do them in the same manner, and take care your fire is clear; and set your gridiron high that they may not burn, and have a little parsley and butter in a cup. You may split and broil them with a little pepper and salt; and you may roast them only with parsley and butter in a dish.
  
 TO ROAST DUCKS.
 When you have drawn the ducks, shred one onion and a few sage-leaves, put them into the ducks with pepper and salt, spit and dust them with flour, and baste them with lard. If your fire be very hot, they will he roasted in twenty minutes; and the quicker they are roasted the better they will taste. Just before you take them from the spit, dust them with flour and baste them. Get ready some gravy made of the gizzards and pinions, a large blade of mace, a few peppercorns, a spoonful of catsup, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle; strain it, and pour it on the ducks, and send onion-sauce in a boat.
  
 BAKED BEANS AND PEASE WITH PORK.
 Baked beans are a very simple dish, yet few cook them well. They should be put in cold water, and hung over the fire the night before they are baked. In the morning they should be put in a colander, and rinsed two or three times; then again placed in a kettle with the pork you intend to bake, covered with water, and kept scalding-hot an hour or more. A pound of pork is quite enough for a quart of beans, and that is a large dinner for a common family. The rind of the pork should he slashed. Pieces of pork alternately fat and lean are the most suitable; the cheeks are the best. A little pepper sprinkled among the beans when they are placed in the bean-pot will render them less unhealthy. They should be just covered with water when put into the oven, and the pork should be sunk a little below the surface of the beans. Bake three or four hours.
 Stewed beans are prepared in the same way; the only difference is, they are not taken out of the scalding water, but are allowed to stew in more water, with a piece of pork and a little pepper, three hours or more.
 Dried pease need not be soaked over night. They should be stewed slowly four or five hours in considerable water, with a piece of pork. The older beans and pease are the longer they should be cooked. Indeed, this is the case with all vegetables.
  
 TO KEEP MEAT HOT.
 The best way to keep meat hot, if done before company is ready, is to set the dish over a pan of boiling water; cover the dish with a deep cover so as not to touch the meat, and throw a cloth over all. Thus you may keep meat hot a long time, and it is better than over-roasting and spoiling it. The steam of the water keeps it hot, and does not draw the gravy out; whereas, if you set a dish of meat any time over a chafingdish of coals, it will dry up all the gravy and spoil the meat.
  
 KIDNEY
 May be either broiled, or roasted, or chopped into small pieces, with some of the fat, seasoned with pepper, suet, and onion; then roll it into small halls with an egg, and fry it.
  
 BOILING.
 TO BOIL MEATS, ETC.
 THIS most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in perfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and attendance as roasting. To skim your pot well and keep it really boiling (the slower the better) all the while, to know how long is required for doing the joint, &c., and to take it up at the critical moment when it is done enough, comprehend almost the whole art and mystery. This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which few persons are capable.
 The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and make up a sufficient fire (a frugal cook will manage with much less fire for boiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, without much mending or stirring.
 When the pot is coming to a boil, there will always from the cleanest meat and clearest water rise a scum to the top of it, proceeding partly from the water; this must be carefully taken off· as soon as it rises. On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things.
 When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw up the rest of the scum.
 The oftener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat.
 If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse and filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the butcher and poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook in not skimming her pot.
 Many put in milk to make what they boil look white; but this does more harm than good: others wrap it up in a cloth; but these are needless precautious. If the scum be attentively removed, meat will have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled up. This may give rather more trouble, but those who wish to excel in their art must only consider how the processes of it can be most perfectly performed. A cook who has a proper pride and pleasure in her business will make this her maxim on all occasions.
 It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, or before the thicker parts are done enough the thinner will be done too much.
 Put your meat into cold water, in the proportion of about a quart of water to a pound of meat. It should be covered with water during the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it; the less water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savoury will be the meat and the better will be the broth.
 The water should be heated gradually, according to the thickness, &c. of the article boiled; for instance, a leg of mutton of ten pounds’ weight should be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradually make the water hot without causing it to boil, for about forty minutes. If the water boils much sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up as if it was scorched. By keeping the water a certain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the meat are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it rises.
 You should never boil vegetables with meat excepting carrots or parsnips.
 A dry tongue should soak one day, and it will then require four hours’ slow boiling, and a green one three hours. In short, the principal art in boiling any kind of meat or poultry is, to boil very slowly in clean saucepans, and keep them well-skimmed; for if the utensils are dirty, it will discolour whatever is boiled in them; and if any thing is boiled fast, it will be hard, dry, and ill­flavoured: while slow boiling, clean saucepans, and clean water kept well skimmed will render all kinds of meat and poultry white, plump, juicy, and wholesome.
 In respect to the time required for boiling a joint, you must be directed by your own judgment, the size of the joint, and the strength of the fire. It is a common rule, however, to weigh the meat, and to allow about seventeen minutes for every pound.
 Meat, whether for salting or immediate dressing, eats much better if suffered to hang a few days.
 Never purchase any meat that is bruised, as it will invariably taint in a short time; and observe, that the best joints, though generally dearer than the others, will ultimately prove the cheapest, because they go the farthest.
  
 A ROUND OF SALTED BEEF.
 As this is too large for a moderate family, we shall write directions for the dressing half a round. Get the tongue side, skewer it up tight and round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round it to keep the skewers in their places. Put it into plenty of cold water, and carefully catch the scum as soon as it rises; let it boil till all the scum is removed, and then put the boiler on one side of the fire to keep simmering slowly till it is done.
 Half a round of 15lbs. will take about three hours; if it weighs more, give it more time.
 When you take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks to it that has escaped the vigilance of your skimmer, wash it off with a paste-brush; garnish the dishes with carrots and turnips. Send up carrots, turnips, and parsnips, or greens, &c. on separate dishes. Pease-pudding is a very proper accompaniment.
  
 H-BONE OF BEEF
 Is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the round, but will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid. An H-bone of 20lbs. will be done enough in about four hours; of 10lbs. in three hours, more or less, as the weather is hotter or colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough to allow of plenty of water-room. Let it be well covered with water. Set the pot on one side of the fire to boil gently; if it boils quick at first, no art can make it tender after. The slower it boils, the better it will look, and the more tender it will be.
  
 SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH CELERY SAUCE.
 Wash and clean ten heads of celery, cut off the green tops, and take off the outside stalks; cut the heads in thin slices, boil them tender in a little milk, just enough for gravy; add salt, and thicken it with a spoonful of butter and some white flour. Boil the shoulder, and pour the sauce over it.
 The shoulder of mutton may be served up covered with onion­sauce.
  
 TO BOIL A TONGUE.
 Put a tongue, if soft, in a pot over-night, and do not let it boil till about three hours before dinner; then boil it all that three hours: if fresh out of the pickle, two hours and a half; and put it in when the water boils.
  
 TO BOIL HAMS.
 Put your ham into a copper of cold water, and, when it boils, take care that it boils slowly. A ham of 20lbs. will take four hours and a half boiling; and so in proportion for one of a larger or smaller size. No soaking is required for a green ham, but an old and large ham will require sixteen hours’ soaking in water; after which, it should lie on damp stones sprinkled with water two or three days to mellow. Observe to keep the pot well skimmed while your ham is boiling. When you take it up, pull off the skin as whole as possible, and save it, and strew on it raspings. When the ham is brought from table, put the skin upon it, which will preserve it moist.
  
 MANAGEMENT OF HAMS,
 When your hams are smoked, hang them for a month or two in a damp place, so as to make them mouldy; then tie them well up in brown paper, and hang them in a very dry place. Never lay these hams in water till you boil them; then put them in cold water, and let them be on the fire four hours before they boil. Skim the pot well and frequently before it boils; when it boils, two hours will do it enough.
  
 KNUCKLE OF VEAL
 Requires merely to be boiled till perfectly tender, and then serve it with melted butter and chopped parsley; or it may be fried with sliced onion to a fine brown colour, then lay it in a stewpan with some ready stewed pease, onions, and lettuce, to which may be added a large cucumber; simmer the whole till the meat is tender, and season with pepper and salt; then serve it, and garnish with lemon sliced.
 Observe.–Veal, in whatever manner it is dressed, should always have bacon or ham to eat with it.
  
 NECK OF VEAL
 May be boiled, and served with parsley and melted butter.
 TO BOIL FOWLS AND HOUSE-LAMB,
 Boil fowls and house-lamb in a pot by themselves, in a good deal of water; and if any scum arises, take it off: they will be sweeter and whiter than if boiled in a cloth. A little chicken will be done in fifteen minutes, a large one in twenty minutes, a good fowl in half an hour, a little turkey or goose in an hour, and a large turkey in an hour and a half.
  
 PICKLED PORK
 Takes more time than any other meat. If you buy your pork ready salted, ask how many days it has been in salt; if many, it will require to be soaked in water for six hours before you dress it. When you cook it, wash and scrape it as clean as possible: when delicately dressed, it is a favourite dish with almost everybody. Take care it does not boil fast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces before the thick part of the meat is warm through. A leg of 7lbs. takes three hours and a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefully, and when you take the meat out of the boiler scrape it clean.
 Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more nature has given eyes than she has given tongues and brains), when pork is boiled, score it in diamonds, and take out every other square; and thus present a retainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate: but this is pleasing the eye at the expense of the palate. A nice leg of pork nicely salted and nicely boiled is as nice a cold relish as cold ham, especially if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and so letting out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle.
  
 BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
 Cut off the shank, wrap the flank nicely round, and secure it with skewers; dredge it well with flour, and put it on the fire in a kettle of cold water, with some salt, and three or four heads of garlic, which will give it a delicately fine flavour. Skim it well, and when nearly done take it from the fire, and keep it hot and closely covered, that the steam may finish it. Have carrots well boiled to put in the dish under it, or turnips boiled, mashed smooth, and stewed with a lump of butter and salt. Lay the mutton on, and pour over it butter melted with some flour in it, and a cupful of capers, with some of the vinegar. Shake them together over the fire till hot before you pour it on.
  
 TO BOIL FOWLS OR CHICKENS.
 For this purpose never choose black-legged ones; pick, singe, and wash them well; then lay them in boiling water, after having floured them: serve with melted butter and parsley. Ham should always be boiled to eat with boiled fowls.
  
 TO BOIL RABBITS.
 Boil your rabbit slowly in plenty of water, and skim it frequently: it will be done enough in forty minutes. Lay your rabbit in a dish, and bury it in onion-sauce, in which manner serve it, previously dividing the head, and laying one-half on each side of the dish.
  
 TO BOIL A TURKEY.
 Take herbs, nutmeg, salt, pepper, bread, two anchovies, a little lemon-peel, a small bit of butter, some suet, and an egg. Mix the whole well together, and stuff it in the crop; sew it up, and boil the turkey in a flannel cloth, which will cause it to look white. Serve with oyster-sauce, enriched with cream and a little soy.
  
 SAUCE FOR A BOILED TURKEY.
 The best sauce for a boiled turkey is good oyster and celery sauce. Make oyster-sauce thus:–A pint of oysters, set them off, strain the liquor from them, put them in cold water, and wash and beard them; put them in your liquor in a stewpan, with a blade of mace, and butter rolled in flour, and a quarter of a lemon. Boil them up; then put in half a pint of cream, and boil it all gently. Take the lemon and mace out, squeeze the juice of the lemon into the sauce, then serve it in the boats.
  
 PREPARATION OF VEGETABLES.
 THE principal art in boiling greens is to preserve their beautiful green appearance and sweetness; to do which they must be carefully picked, washed, and freed from insects, and they should be as fresh as possible, it being impossible to bring such as are stale to a good colour.
 In boiling them, you should use a considerable quantity of water, and a tin, brass, or copper pan, in which they should be dressed by themselves; meat or an iron pot spoiling the colour. Vegetables should be drained the moment they are done enough, and attention should be paid that they be not over-boiled, in which case they lose their crispness.–The preceding remarks hold good in respect to all kinds of vegetables except carrots, which should
 be boiled with beef.
 If your water is hard in which you desire to boil vegetables green, put in a small spoonful of salt of wormwood previous to laying in your vegetables.
  
 TO DRESS CAULIFLOWERS.
 Separate the green part, and cut the flower close at the bottom from the stalk; let it soak an hour in clear cold water, and then lay it in boiling milk and water, or water alone, observing to skim it well. When the flower or stalks feel tender, it is done enough, and should be instantly taken up. Drain it for a minute, and serve it up in a dish by itself, with plain melted butter in a sauce­tureen.
  
 PREPARATION OF VEGETABLES.
 ASPARAGUS.
 Great attention is necessary to boil asparagus: it must be carefully washed and cleaned, the horny part must be cut away, leaving only enough to take it up with the fingers. After the white horny part has been well scraped, cut them all off at one length, and tie them up in separate bundles; lay them in boiling water with a little salt. Boil them briskly, and they are done enough when tender. Dip a round of toasted bread in the liquor, and lay it in the dish; then pour some melted butter over the toast, and lay the asparagus on the toast entirely round the dish. Serve with melted butter in a sauce-tureen.
  
 ARTICHOKES.
 Wring the stalks off, and lay the artichokes in the water cold, with the bottoms up; by which means the dirt concealed between the leaves will boil out. After the water boils, they will take nearly two hours to be done. Serve with melted butter, salt, and pepper.
 To fry them, blanch them first in water, then flour them, and
 fry them in fresh butter; when done enough, lay them in a dish, and pour melted butter over them.
  
 TO DRESS CHARDOONS.
 Tie them into bundles, and dress and serve them as asparagus; or boil them in salt and water till tender, then dry them, dip them in butter, and fry them. Serve with plain melted butter.
  
 TO STEW CUCUMBERS.
 Slice some onions, and cut the cucumbers large; then flour and fry them in good fresh butter; after which, pour on some gravy, and stew them till done enough.
  
 TO STEW ONIONS.
 Peel twelve onions, and, having floured, fry them of a light brown, lay them in a stewpan with some gravy, two spoonfuls of catsup, pepper, salt, and, if agreeable, a little Cayenne. Place the whole over a gentle fire, and let them stew an hour and a half.
  
 TO STEW CELERY.
 Wash four large heads, take off the outer leaves, divide each head into halves, then cut them into pieces each about three inches long, lay them in a stewpan with weak gravy, and let them simmer till perfectly tender; then add a small portion of cream, and season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Warm the whole; after which, serve it up.
  
 GARDEN OR WINDSOR BEANS.
 Boil them by themselves with a little salt, parsley, and mint; when tender, they are done enough; then drain them, and serve with parsley and melted butter.–Beans are excellent with bacon or ham.
  
 TO BOIL GREEN PEASE.
 Shell, but do not wash them, boil them in plenty of water, and skim well as soon as they boil. Put in some salt and mint-tops, and be particularly careful not to over-boil them, as they will then lose their colour and taste. When done enough, serve them in a dish by themselves, and melt in a good piece of butter among them.
  
 TO KEEP GREEN PEASE.
 Scald your pease, then strain and dry them between clean cloths, after which put them in wide-mouthed bottles, and pour clarified suet over them; then close the bottle well, and rosin the cork down; after which, bury them under ground. When used, boil them till tender, with a bit of butter, some mint, and a small portion of sugar.
  
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
 Must be taken up the moment they are done enough, otherwise they will prove watery. Serve with butter and pepper.
  
 ROAST ONIONS
 With the skins on; when done enough, peel them, and serve with cold butter, salt, and potatoes roasted,
  
 TURNIPS.
 They eat best boiled in the pot; when done enough, take them out and put them in a pan, mash them with butter and a little salt, and send them to table. But you may do them thus:–Pare turnips, and cut them into dice as big as the top of one’s finger; put them into a clean saucepan, and cover them with water. When done enough, throw them in a sieve to drain, and put them in a saucepan with a good piece of butter. Stir them over the fire five or six minutes, and send them to table.
  
 PARSNIPS.
 They should be boiled in a great deal of water, and when they are soft (which you will know by running a fork into them), tak them up, and carefully scrape the dirt off them; and then with a knife scrape them fine, throwing away all the sticky parts, and send them up in a dish with melted butter.
  
 FRENCH BEANS.
 First string them, then cut them in two, and again across; but if you would do them nice, cut the bean in four, and then across, which is eight pieces. Lay them in water and salt; and when your pan boils, put in some salt and the beans. When they are tender, they are done enough. Take care they do not lose their fine green. Lay them in a plate, and have butter in a cup.
  
 CARROTS.
 Let them be scraped clean, and when they are done enough, rub them in a clean cloth; then slice them into a plate, and pour some melted butter over them. If they are young spring carrots, half an hour will boil them; if large, an hour; but old Sandwich carrots will take two hours.
  
 SPINACH.
 Pick it clean, and wash it in five or six waters; put it in a saucepan that will just hold it, throw over a little salt, and cover the pan close. Do not put any water in, but shake the pan often. Put your saucepan on a clear fire. As soon as you find the greens are shrunk and fallen to the bottom, and that the liquor which comes out boils up, they are done enough. Throw them in a clean sieve to drain, and give them a little squeeze. Lay them in a plate, and never put any butter on it, but put it in a cup.
  
 CABBAGES, ETC.
 Cabbage. and all sorts of young sprouts, must be boiled in a great deal of water. When the stalks are tender, or fall to the bottom, they are done enough; then take them off before they lose their colour. Always throw salt in your water before you put greens in. Young sprouts you send to table just as they are; but cabbage is best chopped, and put in a saucepan with a good piece of butter, stirring it for five or six minutes till the butter is all melted, and then send it to table.
  
 TO STEW RED CABBAGE.
 Slice the cabbage, and place it over a gentle fire with gravy, onion, pepper and salt, a little vinegar, one teaspoonful of catsup, and, when done, add a bit of butter rolled in flour.
  
 FISH.
 GENERAL REMARKS ON DRESSING FISH.
 If you do not order your fishmonger to clean the fish which you purchase, it is rarely well done; because if not sufficiently washed it must necessarily be filthy, and if washed too much the flavour is greatly diminished.
 When it is perfectly clean, if you intend to boil it, some salt and a small quantity of vinegar should be put into the water to give it firmness; but whiting, haddock, and cod are much better if a little salted, and kept one day; though when the weather is not very warm they may be kept two days.
 Persons accustomed to purchase fish may procure it at a cheap rate by taking more than they immediately want for one day; in which case, such as will neither pot nor pickle, nor keep by being sprinkled with salt and hung up, will make an exceeding fine stew on the following day.
 Such fish as are taken out of fresh water have generally a muddy smell and taste, which may be removed by soaking them in strong salt and water after they are nicely cleaned; or if they are sufficiently large to bear it, scald them in the same; after which, dry and dress them.
 You must be careful to place the fish in the water while cold, and to let it do gently, otherwise the outside will be broken before the inner part is half-done; but all kinds of shellfish must be put into boiling water, otherwise they will be flabby and watery.
 The attention of the cook in dressing fish is particularly necessary in either boiling, broiling, or frying, especially the former; for if not taken up the moment it is sufficiently done, it will be breaking to pieces, and very soon spoiled; and if the least underdone, it will be completely uneatable; therefore, you should make yourself thoroughly acquainted with the time your fish-kettle will boil at a proper distance over a good fire, and then you will soon be cook enough to dress fish to a given time by putting it on the fire as many minutes before it is wanted as it will take to cook it in; but as a minute too soon or too late will spoil it, and no directions can be given to such a nicety of time as is necessary for this purpose, you must therefore be careful frequently to try them, by raising the fish a little in the kettle, and take out one of the fins, which, if the fish is done enough, will come out with a gentle pull, and the eyes will also turn white. All kinds ought to be served up quickly.
 When small fish are neatly fried, covered with crumbs and egg, they make a far more elegant dish than if served plain. Considerable attention should also be paid to the proper garnishing of fish; for which purpose, lemon, parsley, and horseradish may be made use of.
 The liver and roe should be placed carefully on the dish in such a manner that the mistress may see them, and, consequently, send a portion to every person in company.
 Always fry fish in clean dripping, as butter gives a bad colour to fried fish; but oil alone is best for this purpose by such as can afford the expense.
 When you design to broil fish, it must be seasoned, floured, and placed on a very clean gridiron, the bars of which, when hot, should be rubbed with a piece of suet to prevent the fish from sticking. Great attention should be paid to broil it on a clear fire, and to keep it at such a distance as to prevent scorching.
 If the fish is to be fried, it must be placed in a soft cloth after it has been properly cleaned and washed. When it is completely dry, wet it with an egg, and sprinkle some very fine crumbs of bread over it; which process, if repeated a second time, will cause the fish to look much better; then, having a thick-bottomed frying­pan upon the fire containing a large quantity of dripping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and let it fry, neither too quick nor too slow, till it acquires a fine brown colour and is supposed ready.
 Garnish with a fringe of curled parsley raw, or with parsley fried, which must be thus executed:–When washed, throw it again into clean water; when the dripping- boils, throw the parsley immediatcly into it from the water, and it will instantly become green and crisp, and must be taken out with a slice.
  
 TO BOIL SALMON.
 Let it be carefully cleaned, put it into lukewarm water, and boil it gently. Salmon, if under-done, is extremely unwholesome. A thick piece will require to boil half an hour, and a small piece about twenty minutes. Garnish with horseradish, and serve it up with shrimp, lobster, or anchovy-sauce.
  
 TO PICKLE SALMON.
 Boil it as before directed, and, having taken the fish out, boil as much of the liquor as will cover it, with bay-leaves, salt, and peppercorns, to which add a sufficiency of vinegar. Pour the whole, when cold, over the fish.
  
 TO BROIL SALMON.
 Cut slices moderately thick, and, having seasoned them, place each slice in half a sheet of white paper, well buttered, observing to twist the ends of it; then broil them over a slow fire for about eight minutes. Serve them up in the paper with anchovy or shrimp-sauce.
  
 TO POT SALMON.
 Take one or more pieces of salmon, which must be carefully scaled and wiped, but not washed; salt it well, and suffer it to remain till the salt is melted and drained away from it; then season with cloves, whole pepper, and beaten mace; lay in a small number of bay-leaves, place it in a pan, cover the whole with butter, and bake it. If a large fish, do it three hours; if a small one, two hours. When done, drain it well from the gravy, put it into the pots to keep, press it close down, and, when cold, cover it with clarified butter. This manner of dressing fish may be successfully used with any fin-fish.
  
 SALMON, COLLARED.
 Split enough of the fish to form a handsome roll, wash, and wipe it; then, having previously mixed a sufficient quantity of white pepper, pounded mace, salt, and Jamaica pepper to season it highly, rub it inside and out well; after which, roll it tight, and bandage it. Put as much water and one-third vinegar as will cover it, with salt, bay-leaves, and both sorts of pepper; then cover it close, and simmer it till done enough. Drain and boil quick the liquor, which put on when cold. Serve with fennel. This forms an elegant dish, and may be esteemed as a peculiar delicacy.
  
 TO BOIL TURBOT.
 Turbot should lie about two hours in pump water, with salt and vinegar. During this time, water should be prepared to boil it in, of which there should be a sufficient quantity to cover the fish well, impregnated with a stick of horseradish sliced, a handful of salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When this water has acquired a sufficient taste of the seasoning, take it off the fire, and let it cool before you put in the turbot, which would otherwise crack. A middle-sized turbot will require to be boiled twenty minutes; when done enough, drain it. Serve it garnished with a fringe of curled parsley, and the sauce must be lobster or anchovy.
  
 TO FRY TURBOTS OR BRILL.
 Take a well-cleaned brill, or small turbot, cut it across as if it was ribbed, and flour it; put it in a large fryingpan, with boiling lard enough to cover it. Fry it till it is brown, and then drain it. Clean the pan, put into it half a pint of white wine, and half a pint of white gravy, one anchovy, salt, nutmeg, and a little ginger. Put in the fish, and let it stew till half the liquor is wasted; then take it out, and put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a squeeze of lemon: let them simmer till of a proper thickness. Lay the turbot in the dish, and pour the sauce over it.
  
 COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
 Rub the backbone with a little salt, which will cause it to eat much finer; then tie it up, and put it on the fire, completely covered with cold water, into which throw a handful of salt, and let it boil gently till done enough. Particular care must be taken to serve it without a speck of black or scum. Garnish with lemon, horseradish, and the milt, roe, and liver. Serve it with oyster or shrimp-sauce.
 A cod, when dressed whole, is boiled and served up in the same manner.
  
 CRIMP COD
 May be either boiled, broiled, or fried.
  
 COD’S SOUNDS, BOILED.
 Soak them for about half an hour in warm water, then scrape and clean them, and, if you wish them to look white, boil them in milk and water till tender. Serve them with egg-sauce, in a napkin.
  
 COD’S SOUNDS, BROILED.
 Lay them in warm water a few minutes, rub them with salt, then scrape off the skin and dirt, and put them into water, and boil them. Take them out and flour them well; pepper, salt, and broil them. When done enough, lay them in a dish, and pour melted butter and mustard into it, or a little brown gravy, to which add a little mustard and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Give it a boil, season with pepper and salt, and pour it over the sounds.
  
 HOW TO BOIL SKATE.
 Care must be taken in cleaning this fish; and as it is generally too large to be boiled in a pan at once, it should be cut into long slips, crossways, about an inch broad, and thrown into salt and water; when, if the water boils quick, it will be done in three minutes. Drain it well, garnish with horseradish or lemon, and serve it up with butter and mustard in a sauce-tureen, and anchovy­sauce in another.
  
 TO BOIL SALT COD.
 Soak and clean it well, then lay it all night in water with a little vinegar. Boil it sufficiently, then beat it into flakes on the dish; pour over it parsnips boiled, pounded in a mortar, and then boil it up with cream and a large piece of butter rubbed with flour. It may be served with egg-sauce; or the fish may be boiled, and sent up without flaking, and with the parsnips whole. Some prefer potatoes and melted butter.
  
 TO BOIL STURGEON.
 Having cleaned a sturgeon well, boil it in as much liquor as will just cover it; add two or three bits of lemon-peel, some whole pepper, a stick of horseradish, and a pint of vinegar to every half-gallon of water.
 When done, garnish the dish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and horseradish, and serve it up with melted butter, with cavear dissolved in it; or with anchovy-sauce; and with the body of a crab in the butter, and a little lemon-juice.
  
 TO ROAST STURGEON.
 Place it on a lark spit, which fasten on a large spit; baste it continually with butter, and serve with a good gravy, some lemon­juice, and a glass of sherry.
  
 STEWED CARP.
 Take half gravy and half claret, as much as will cover your carp in the pan, with mace, whole pepper, a few cloves, two anchovies, a eschalot or onion, a small portion of horseradish, and a little salt; cover your pan close that the steam may not escape, and stew them very slowly for at least one hour. When the carp is done, take it out, and boil the liquor as fast as possible till it be just enough to make sauce; flour a bit of butter and throw into it; squeeze the juice of one lemon, and pour it over the carp. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the roe fried, and a good deal of horseradish and lemon.
  
 BOILED CARP.
 Serve in a napkin with the same sauce as stewed carp. This is the best method of dressing carp.
  
 TO FRY CARP.
 After they are well scaled and cleaned, lay them on a cloth to dry, and then fry them in the same manner as other fish; fry some toast, cut three-corneredwise, and the roes. When done, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain. Lay your carp in the dish, your roes on each side, and garnish with the fried toast and lemon. Serve them with butter and anchovy, and lemon-juice.
  
 TO BAKE CARP.
 Clean a brace of carp well, then take an earthen pan, butter it a little, and lay your carp in; season them with cloves, nutmeg, mace, black and white pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, an anchovy, and pour in a bottle of white wine: bake them an hour in a hot oven. When done, take them carefully up, and lay them in a dish; set it over hot water to keep them warm, and cover them close. Then pour the liquor in which they were baked into a saucepan, boil it a few minutes, then strain it, and add half a pound of butter rolled in flour: let it boil, and keep it stirring. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and put in what salt you require. Pour the sauce over the fish, lay the roes round, and garnish with lemon; but be careful to skim all the fat off the liquor.
  
 TO POT CARP.
 Cut off the head and tail, take out the bones, and cleanse it well; and then do it exactly the same as salmon.
  
 PERCH AND TENCH.
 Place them in cold water, boil them gently, and serve them with melted butter and soy. Garnish with lemon and horseradish. They may be fried or stewed the same as carp, but are not then so fine flavoured.
  
 TO FRY TROUT.
 Wash, gut, and scale them; then dry them, and lay them on a board, dusting them at the same time with some flour. Fry them finely brown with fresh dripping. Serve with crimp parsley and melted butter.
 Tench and perch may be dressed in the same manner.
  
 TO BOIL TROUT.
 Boil them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece of horseradish. Serve with white sauce, anchovy-sauce, or plain butter.
  
 TO STEW TROUT.
 Select a large trout, clean it well, and place it in a pan with gravy and white wine; then take two eggs buttered, some nutmeg, salt and pepper, lemon-peel, a little thyme, and some grated bread: mix them together, and put in the belly of the trout; then suffer it to stew a quarter of an hour; then put a piece of butter in the sauce. Serve it hot, and garnish with lemon sliced.
  
 TO POT TROUT, PERCH, OR TENCH.
 Scale and clean the fish; cut off the head, tail, and fins; take out the bones, season it, and bake and pot the same as directed for salmon.
  
 MACKEREL.
 When boiled, serve them with butter and fennel. To broil them, split and sprinkle with pepper and salt, or stuff them with pepper, salt, herbs, and chopped fennel.
 Collar them the same as eels.
 To pot them, clean, season, and bake them in a pan with bay­leaves, spice, and some butter; when cold, place them in a potting-pot, and cover them with clarified butter.
 To pickle them, boil them; then boil some of the liquor, a few peppercorns, vinegar, and bay-leaves; and when perfectly cold, pour it over them.
  
 TO BAKE PIKE.
 Clean and scale them well, open as near the throat as convenient, and use the following stuffing:–Grated bread, anchovies, herbs, salt, suet, oysters, mace, pepper, four yelks of eggs, and, if it can be procured, half a pint of cream: mix it over the fire till it is sufficiently thick, then put it into the fish, and sew it carefully up. Then put some small bits of butter over the fish, and bake it. Serve it up with gravy, butter, and anchovy.
  
 TO BOIL OR FRY SOLES.
 Soles, when boiled, should be carefully attended to, that they may look white; to do which, they should lay two hours in vinegar, salt, and water, and afterward be dried in a cloth, and then put into the fish-kettle with an onion, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Serve with anchovy, shrimp, or muscle-sauce.
 If fried, do them in the same manner as other fish, with eggs, crumbs, and lard, till they are of a fine brown.
  
 TO STEW SOLES, FLOUNDERS, AND PLAICE.
 These three different species of fish must be stewed in one and the same manner. Half-fry them in butter till of a fine brown; then take them up, put to your butter a quart of water, three anchovies, and an onion sliced. Put your fish in again, and stew it gently half an hour. Take out the fish, squeeze in a lemon, and thicken the sauce with butter and flour. Having given it a boil, strain it through a sieve over the fish, and serve up with oyster or shrimp-sauce.
  
 TO BROIL HADDOCKS.
 Scale, gut, and wash them well, but do not rip their bellies open, but extract the guts with the gills; then dry the fish in a clean cloth. Should there be any roe or liver, put it in again, flour them well, and have a good clear fire; then lay them on your gridiron, and turn them quick two or three times to prevent their sticking. When done enough, serve them with plain butter.
  
 STUFFING FOR PIKE, HADDOCK, AND SMALL COD.
 Take an equal quantity of fat bacon, beef-suet, and fresh butter, some savory, thyme, and parsley, a few leaves of sweet marjoram, two anchovies, with some salt, pepper, and nutmeg; to this add crumbs, and an egg to bind. Oysters added to the above will be a considerable improvement.
  
 TO DRESS A LARGE PLAICE.
 Keep it a day sprinkled with salt; after which, wash and wipe it dry, wet it over with egg, and cover with crumbs of bread. When your lard, to which must be added two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, is boiling hot, lay the fish in it, and fry it of a fine colour. When done enough, drain it from the fat, and serve with fried parsley and anchovy-sauce.
  
 SMELTS
 Should be fried in the same manner as other fish, with eggs, crumbs, and boiling lard, being particularly attentive to do them of a fine colour, on which much of their beauty depends.
  
 TO SPITCHCOCK EELS.
 Take two large eels, and cut them into pieces each three inches long, with the skin on, open them, and clean them well, dry them in a cloth, then wet them with egg, and stew them with cut parsley, salt, pepper, and a bit of mace finely beaten. Then, having rubbed your gridiron with a bit of suet, do the fish of a fine colour. Serve with anchovy and butter. They may be dressed either whole or cut, and with the skins either off or on: if dressed whole, make them into forms agreeable to fancy with a skewer.
  
 FRIED EELS
 Should always be dipped into egg and crumbs of bread, which materially improve their appearance at table.
  
 BOILED EELS.
 Select the small eels for boiling, and place them in a small quantity of water; and when done enough, serve with chopped parsley and butter.
  
 COLLARED EELS.
 Slit open the eel, take out the bones, cut off the head and tail, and lay it flat on the dresser. Shred some sage fine, and mix it with black pepper, grated nutmeg, and salt. Lay it all over the eel, and roll it up hard in little cloths, tying it up tight at each end. Then set on some water, with pepper, salt, five or six cloves, three or four blades of mace, and a bay-leaf or two. Boil these with the bones, head, and tail; then take out the bones, head, and tail, and put in the eels. Let them boil till tender; then take them out of the liquor, and boil the liquor longer. Take it off, and, when cold, put it to the eels; cover it close, but do not take off the little cloths till the eels are used.
  
 TO ROAST LOBSTERS.
 Having boiled your lobsters, lay them before the fire, and baste them well with butter till they have a fine froth. Serve them with plain melted butter.
  
 TO BUTTER SHRIMPS.
 Take a quart of shrimps, stew them in half a pint of white wine, a good piece of butter, and a grated nutmeg. When the butter is melted and the shrimps are hot through, beat the yelks of four eggs with a little white wine, and pour it in; then dish it on sippets, and garnish with sliced lemon.
  
 TO MAKE ANCHOVY-SAUCE.
 For this purpose take a pint of gravy, put in an anchovy, roll a quarter of a pound of butter in a little flour, which add to it, and stir the whole together till it boils. To this, if you wish it, may be added lemon-juice, red wine, and catsup.
  
 TO FRY OYSTERS.
 Make a batter; then, having washed your oysters and wiped them dry, dip them into the batter, and roll them in some crumbs of bread and mace finely beaten. Fry them as other fish.
  
 TO STEW OYSTERS.
 Drain off the liquor of the oysters, and wash them in water; then mix the liquor drained from them with an equal quantity of water and white wine, a small portion of whole pepper, and a blade of mace. Place this mixture over the fire, and boil it well; then lay in the oysters, and let them just boil up, and thicken the whole with butter rolled in flour. Serve them with sippets and the liquor, and garnish with sliced lemon.
 N.B.–Some persons leave out the white wine.
  
 TO STEW LAMPREYS.
 Clean the fish, and remove the sinew which runs down the back; season with nutmeg, pepper, mace, cloves, and allspice. Place it in a stewpan with strong beef-gravy, port wine, and an equal portion of Madeira; cover it close, and Jet it stew till tender. Then take out the lamprey, and preserve it hot, while you boil up the liquor, with a few anchovies minced, and some flour and butter. Strain the gravy through a sieve, to which add lemon­juice and some made mustard. Serve with sippets of bread and horseradish. Cider will do instead of white wine.
  
 TO FRY LAMPREYS.
 Bleed them, and save the blood; then wash them in hot water,
 and cut them in pieces; fry them in fresh butter, but not too much; pour out the fat, put in a little white wine, give the pan a shake round, season it with whole pepper, salt, nutmeg, sweet herbs, and a bay-leaf; then put in a few capers, a large piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood; shake the pan round often, and cover them close. When done enough, take them out, strain the sauce, then give it a quick boil, squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and pour all over the fish. Garnish with lemon.
  
 FRIED HERRINGS
 Must be done a light brown, and served with onions sliced and fried; in which manner they are very excellent.
  
 BROILED HERRINGS.
 When floured, broil them of a good colour, and serve them with plain melted butter and mustard. Great care must be taken not to burn or smoke them.
  
 POTTED HERRINGS.
 The same as potted mackerel.
  
 SPRATS
 Should be wiped clean with a cloth, and fastened together by long skewers run through the heads, then broiled, and served hot and hot; otherwise they will not eat so well.
  
 TO POT LOBSTERS AND SHRIMPS.
 Parboil them, then extract the meat, and chop it into small pieces; season with white pepper, nutmeg, mace, and salt; press the whole into a pot, and cover it with butter. Bake half an hour, and then put the spawn in. When perfectly cold, take the lobster out, and lay it in the pots with a little of the butter. Beat the remaining butter in a mortar with a portion of the spawn; then mix the butter thus coloured with as much as will serve to cover the pots, and strain it.
  
 STEWED LOBSTERS.
 Pick the lobster well, lay the spawn in a dish that has a lamp, and rub them down with a piece of butter, four spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, two of soy, a small portion of salt and Cayenne, and two spoonfuls of port wine. Then stew the lobster cut into bits with the gravy as above.
  
 HOT CRAB.
 Extract the meat, clear the shell from the head, then put the head with a nutmeg, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, crumbs of bread, and three spoonfuls of vinegar into the shell again, and set it before the fire. Serve it with dry toast.
  
 TO BROIL WHITINGS OR HADDOCKS.
 Wash your fish with water and salt, and dry them well; wet them with a little vinegar to keep their skins whole, and flour them; make your gridiron hot, having previously rubbed it with beef-suet; lay them on, turn them often to prevent their sticking, and, when done enough, serve them up with shrimp-sauce, or melted butter and anchovy-sauce.
  
 TO SCALLOP OYSTERS.
 Lay them in scallop-shells, or saucers, with crumbs of bread, pepper, nutmeg, salt, and a piece of butter. Bake them in a Dutch oven.
  
 HALIBUT.
 A piece of halibut that weighs 6lbs. must be boiled forty or fifty minutes. The water must boil when it is put in. Melted butter is the best sauce.
  
 CLAMS.
 Wash them, and boil them in their own water until the shells start open; take them from the shells, and wash them in their own water. The water must be strained to get out the grit. Add to it a little thickening of flour and water. Now put in the clams, and simmer. Add toasted bread, and season with butter, pepper, and vinegar to your taste.
  
 SHAD.
 The shad may be either roasted or broiled. After being washed clean and wiped dry, it must be sprinkled with salt and pepper, and suffered to stand for a time. If broiled, place it on a gridiron well greased and hot. Serve it with melted butter. If roasted, it must be covered with bread-crumb, and served with butter and parsley.
 The shad is sometimes baked and boiled, but it is best roasted or broiled.
  
 ROCK-FISH.
 Put the head and shoulders into the fish-kettle with cold water and salt, boil gently, and skim it well. Garnish with scraped horseradish, and serve it with parsley and butter.
  
 TO DRESS A TURTLE.
 Take the head off close to the shell, and open the callapee, observing to leave some of the meat to the breast and shell; take the entrails out, and scald them in water with the callapee; open the guts, clean them carefully, chop them small, and stew them four hours by themselves; divide the other meat into moderate pieces, clean the fins in the same manner as goose giblets, cut them in pieces, and stew the meat and fins together one hour; then strain them off, and season with Cayenne, a bottle of Madeira, salt, pepper, and other spice, four ounces of butter, and forcemeat-balls; thicken the soup, and lay the meat and entrails into it; put the whole into a deep shell, and bake it in an oven. The callapee is done two ways; with brown and white sauce, with a paste run in the centre, and another round the edge of the dish that the turtle is baked in; but the best callapee must be cracked in the middle. The white side should be served with yelks of eggs, wine, lemon, cream, and butter drawn up thick, and poured over when it comes from the oven, and the brown with some of the same sauce that is put in the callapee.
  
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
 OBSERVATIONS.
 THE cheapest method of making gravy is, to use beef-skirts and kidneys, which will answer equally well as other meat if prepared in the same manner. A considerable improvement may be made in gravies by adding the shank-bones of mutton, well cleaned. A milt will also make excellent gravy.
  
 A GOOD STOCK GRAVY.
 Put six pounds of beef into two gallons of water (for which purpose the neck, free from fat, is the best), season with salt, and black and white pepper, whole; add four fried onions, two blades of mace, and a bunch of herbs. Let it boil till reduced one-half, then strain, and keep it for use.
  
 BROWN GRAVY.
 Take one pound of lean coarse beef, score it small, flour it, and lay it in a stewpan with two onions sliced, a small piece of butter, some salt, pepper, and allspice to your palate; and fry it over a gentle fire till the meat becomes brown on both sides, but it must not be burnt. Then pour on it a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and set it again over the fire; let it stew forty minutes, strain it, and skim the fat carefully off. A small piece of milt makes it much richer.
  
 BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.
 Take of water and ale that is not bitter one pint each; of walnut pickle, mushroom pickle, and catsup, two tablespoonfuls each; two anchovies, two onions shred, some salt, two or three blades of mace, and some whole pepper; to the above ingredients add a quarter of a pound of butter, with a small portion of flour, having previously made it brown by stirring it till the froth sinks. Then boil the whole together for twenty minutes, strain it, and use it.
  
 WHITE GRAVY.
 Cut two pounds of veal into small pieces, and boil them with some salt, two onions, two blades of mace, five or six cloves, and about thirty black peppercorns, in two quarts of water, till reduced to the richness required.
  
 GRAVY FOR A FOWL.
 Boil the liver, gizzard, and neck in a pint of water, with a small piece of bread toasted brown, pepper, salt, and thyme. Let it boil to half a pint, then add a glass of port wine, and strain it. Thicken with butter and flour.
  
 TO MELT BUTTER THICK.
 Barely moisten the bottom of your saucepan with water; cut your butter into slices, and lay it in the saucepan before the water you have put in becomes warm. As the butter melts, stir the pan one way frequently, and when it is melted let it boil up; it will then be smooth, thick, and fine. No flour must be used.
  
 CLEAR THIN GRAVY.
 Cut your beef into thin slices, and broil a part of them over a clear fire in such a manner as will suffice to colour the gravy without doing the meat; then place that and the raw meat into a stewpan, with three onions, three cloves, some allspice, whole pepper, sweet herbs, and Cayenne: cover the whole with boiling water, let it boil, then skim it perfectly clear, and let it simmer till sufficiently strong.
  
 RICH BROWN GRAVY.
 Having rubbed some sliced beef and onions in flour, fry them till they acquire a fine brown colour, but be particularly attentive to prevent them from getting black; then lay them in a saucepan well tinned, and pour boiling water into the fryingpan, and let it boil up; after which pour it on the meat in the saucepan, add parsley, savoury, and thyme, a small portion of marjoram, some allspice, mace, cloves, and peppercorns; simmer till sufficiently strong, and then strain it. A bit of ham is a great improvement to this gravy, which may be varied by anchovy and other sauces, agreeable to fancy.
  
 EXCELLENT FISH-SAUCE.
 Take four eels, and skin them; then gut and clean them well, after which divide them into pieces, and lay them in a stewpan; add a quart of water, with a piece of browned bread, three blades of mace, some sweet herbs, four anchovies, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Let it simmer till sufficiently rich, then thicken with flour and butter.
  
 SAUCE FOR WILD FOWL.
 Take half a pint of port wine, an equal portion of good gravy, a small quantity of pepper, salt, and eschalot, with some nutmeg and mace: let this mixture simmer for fifteen minutes, and then add a little butter and flour; after which give it one boil, and pour it through your wild fowl.
  
 RICH SAUCE FOR FISH OR TURKEY.
 Roll three-quarters of a pound of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, to which add a small quantity of water, and melt it; to this you must add half a pint of thick cream, one anchovy finely minced, but not washed; place the whole over the fire, and, as it boils, add two or three tablespoonfuls of soy. Pour it into the sauceboat, with the addition of salt and lemon.
 In making this sauce, great care is requisite to keep it stirring, as it will otherwise curdle.
  
 SAUCE FOR COLD FOWL OR GAME.
 Pound the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, two anchovies, one tablespoonful of oil, four of good vinegar, two eschalots, and a small quantity of mustard.
  
 QUIN’S GAME AND MEAT SAUCE.
 Put one ounce of butter, two onions, two eschalots, and a clove of garlic sliced, a small piece of carrot and parsnip, a bay-leaf, thyme, and two cloves, into a stewpan; shake it over the fire till it begins to colour; then add a dust of flour, a glass of port, half a pint of strong gravy, and a spoonful of vinegar; boil it half an hour. Skim off the fat, and strain it through a sieve; season with Cayenne and salt. Boil it again, and strain it over the meat.
  
 MUSHROOM SAUCE.
 Clean half a pint of young mushrooms, take off the skin by rubbing them with salt, lay them in a stewpan with a small quantity of salt, half a pint of cream, a little mace, and nutmeg; thicken the whole with butter and flour. Let them boil, and, to prevent them curdling, they must be stirred till done. The above sauce is excellent for fowls and rabbits.
  
 ONION SAUCE.
 Peel onions very clean, and boil them till perfectly tender; then drain the water off, and beat them up very fine; after which, add a sufficiency of butter and a small portion of cream.
  
 SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE.
 Take half a pint of sorrel-juice, half a pint of white wine, and some scalded gooseberries, to which add a sufficiency of sugar and butter. Let the whole boil up.
  
 BREAD SAUCE.
 Boil an onion with whole black pepper and milk till it is brought to a pulp; then strain off the milk, and pour it on some grated stale bread, and cover it carefully up. In about forty minutes afterward put it in a saucepan with a large piece of butter rolled in flour, and, when sufficiently boiled, serve it up.
  
 SAUCE FOR RUMP-STEAKS.
 Take a quarter of a pound of butter, and put it in a saucepan over the fire to brown; throw in two onions minced small, and fry them brown, but be careful to prevent them burning; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and give the whole another fry; then put half a pint of good gravy, with some salt and pepper, and a little Cayenne, if agreeable; let it boil fifteen minutes, and skim it carefully, taking off all the fat. Then add a dessert-spoonful of made mustard, the juice of one lemon, and two spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil the whole once more for five minutes, and then pour it on the steaks.
  
 QUIN’S FISH SAUCE.
 Put a pint of walnut pickle, half a pint of mushroom pickle, six anchovies pounded, six others whole, a glass of white wine, three blades of mace, and half a teaspoonful of Cayenne into a stone jar; let it stand three weeks, and strain it into small bottles for use.
  
 AN EASY MADE SAUCE FOR A FOWL.
 Stew the neck and gizzard, with a small piece of lemon-peel, in about a cupful of water; then take the liver of the fowl, and bruise it with some of the liquor; melt a little good butter, and mix the liver and the gravy from the neck and gizzard gradually into it; then give it a boil up, and pour it into your dish.
  
 SAUCE FOR FISH PIES.
 Take a gill of vinegar, and the same quantity of white wine, oyster liquor, and catsup; boil these ingredients with two anchovies, and, when done, strain them, and pour them into the pie after it is baked.
 Another.–Take half a pint of cream, two anchovies minced, a gill of good gravy, and two teaspoonfuls of soy; boil the whole up with an ounce of butter rolled in flour.
  
 CURRANT SAUCE.
 Boil two ounces of dried currants in a pint of water five minutes; then add the crumb of a penny roll, a dozen cloves, a gill of port wine, and some butter, stirring it till it becomes perfectly smooth.
  
 APPLE SAUCE.
 Core and peel six large apples; then slice them thin, and put them in a jar, which place in a saucepan of water over a gentle fire. When done, pulp them; after which, add butter and brown sugar.–This sauce is very excellent with goose and roast pork.
  
 EGG SAUCE.
 Shred hard-boiled eggs very fine, and put them to butter melted in a little milk.
  
 TOMATO SAUCE.
 Take the ripest tomatos, and lay them in a jar, which must be placed in an oven from which the bread has been drawn; let them remain till soft, then separate the pulp from the skins; add Chili vinegar, and some cloves of pounded garlic, agreeable to fancy, with powdered ginger and salt. This sauce should be preserved in small bottles, well corked, in a cool and dry place. It is exceedingly good with either hot or cold meats.
  
 RICH FISH SAUCE.
 Mince twelve unwashed anchovies and five eschalots, scrape two spoonfuls of horseradish, to which add six blades of mace, a gill of anchovy-liquor, five or six cloves, one sliced lemon, a pint of hock, and an equal quantity of water; reduce this mixture by boiling to three half-pints, then strain it off, and, when cold, add three tablespoonfuls of catsup. It must be preserved in bottles well corked.
  
 OYSTER SAUCE.
 Set over the fire the liquor of the oysters, with the beards, with a blade of mace and some lemon-peel; when boiled, strain the liquor, and add the oysters, with some milk, and butter rubbed in flour. Set the whole over the tire again till it boils (observing to stir it all the time), and then serve it.
  
 LOBSTER SAUCE.
 Beat the spawn in a mortar with three anchovies, pour on three spoonfuls of good gravy, and strain the whole into melted butter; then add the meat of the lobster, with a little lemon-juice, and give the whole one boil.
 The anchovies and gravy may be omitted if inconvenient to procure them.
  
 SHRMIP SAUCE
 Is made by simply picking the shrimps, and placing as many as agreeable into melted butter, with a little lemon-juice.
  
 ANCHOVY SAUCE.
 Mince three unwashed anchovies, add to them some flour, butter, and one tablespoonful of water; stir the whole over a fire till it boils.
  
 TO MELT BUTTER.
 Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with a large teaspoonful of flour, place it in a saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of good milk, boil it quick, and shake it continually till the butter is melted.
  
 TO MAKE VERJUICE.
 Take a quantity of crab-apples, and press out the juice; keep it one month, and then distil it in a cold still, when it will be fit for use in a few days.
  
 TO MAKE VINEGAR.
 Boil ten pounds of coarse sugar, twelve gallons of water, and half a pound of brown bread together for one hour; then throw the bread out, and pour the liquor into an open vessel to cool, and on the following day add half a pint of yest. Let it stand twelve or fourteen days, and then put it in a cask, which must be set in the sun till sufficiently sour, which will commonly be in about six months. The bunghole must have merely a hit of tile over it to keep out the dust. Draw it out of the cask into small stone bottles for use.
  
 GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.
 Take three gallons of water, and four quarts of gooseberries, bruised; place the whole in a tub, in which it must remain three days, being stirred often; then strain it off, and add to every gallon of liquor one pound of coarse sugar; pour the whole into a barrel with a toast and yest. It must then be placed in the sun, and the bunghole covered as before mentioned.
 The strength can be increased to almost any required degree by adding more fruit and sugar.
  
 WINE VINEGAR.
 After making raisin wine, take the strained fruit, and to every fifty pounds’ weight put eight gallons of water; then put the yest, &c. as in the preceding instances.
  
 FALSE CAPERS.
 Take some nasturtiums, keep them five or six days after they are gathered, then pour boiling vinegar upon them, and, when cold, cover them closely.
  
 MUSTARD.
 The patent mustard should always be purchased, being in the long run more economical than the common method of making your own mustard, and certainly better.
  
 TO MAKE PATENT MUSTARD.
 Take three onions, two cloves of garlic, two ounces of grated horseradish, and a spoonful of salt; boil these in a pint of water for half an hour: strain, and when rather more than milk-warm, mix it gradually with half a pound of the best flour of mustard; when done, keep it close stopped for use.
  
 SPICES.
 Spice should be very finely powdered, and each kind kept closely stopped in a separate bottle. Spice thus prepared will go much further than when used in the common manner; besides which, it will add to the flavour. Previously to pounding, the spice should be well dried, and then done in sufficient quantities to last six months.
  
 ESSENCE OF ANCHOVIES.
 Take fifty or sixty anchovies, mix them without the bone, but with some of their own liquor well strained; add to them a pint of water, in which let them boil till dissolved, which generally happens in five minutes. When cold, strain and bottle it, taking care to close it well.
 N.B.–Should your stock of anchovies become dry, the deficiency may be well supplied by pouring upon them beef-brine.
  
 TO DRY MUSHROOMS.
 Clean them well by wiping them, take out the brown, and carefully peel off the skin; dry them on sheets of paper in a cool oven, and afterward preserve them in paper bags hung in a dry place. When used, let them simmer in gravy, and they will nearly regain their original size.
  
 MUSHROOM POWDER.
 Dry the mushrooms whole, set them before the fire to crisp, grind, and sift the powder through a fine sieve, preserving it in glass bottles, closely corked.
  
 FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR RAGOUTS, ETC.
 Pound some lean veal and beef-suet with sweet herbs, parsley, some eschalots, bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg in a marble mortar. Make this up into balls with raw yelk of egg, and boil or fry them lightly before they are added to any preparation.
  
 FORCEMEAT FOR TURKEYS, FOWLS, PIES, ETC.
 Take lean veal, ham, parsley, thyme, some eschalots, a little pounded allspice and pepper, a few nice mushrooms, or a little mushroom-powder, some salt, and lemon-juice, and do them over a very slow tire, shaking the saucepan frequently till about two­thirds done. Pound them very fine in a marble mortar, and add bread-crumbs and raw yelk of egg to make them up into balls or fit for stuffing.
  
 EGG-BALLS.
 Pound the yelks of as many hard eggs as will be wanting in a marble mortar, with a little flour and salt; add as much raw yelk of egg as will make this up into balls, and boil them before they are put into soups, or any other preparation.
  
 ELEGANT FORCEMEAT FOR STEWED FISH OR FISH SOUPS.
 Take a lobster, beat the flesh and soft parts to a pulp with an anchovy, some yelk of a hard egg, and a stick of boiled celery, to which add some bread-crumbs, Cayenne, mace, salt, two eggs well beaten, a little catsup, three ounces of butter, warmed, and one tablespoonful of oyster-liquor: form the whole into balls, and fry them in butter till they acquire a fine brown colour.
  
 TO MAKE LITTLE EGGS FOR TURTLE.
 Pound hard yelks of eggs, and make a paste with the yelk of a raw one; then roll them into small balls, and put them in boiling water for three minutes.
  
 CURRY POWDER.
 Take mustard seed, one ounce and a half; coriander seed, four ounces; turmeric, four ounces and a half; black pepper, three ounces; lesser cardamoms, one ounce; ginger, half an ounce; cinnamon, one ounce; cloves, half an ounce; and mace, half an ounce; all these ingredients must be first made into a fine powder, then mixed well together, and kept in a wide-mouthed bottle, closely stopped, for use.
  
 MELTED BUTTER.
 Take a quarter of a pound of butter, rub into it two teaspoonfuls of flour, put it into a clean saucepan with a tablespoonful of water and a little salt; cover, and place the saucepan in a large one of boiling water; shake it until the butter melts and begins to boil.
  
 CELERY SAUCE.
 Wash and pare a bunch of celery, cut it into pieces, and boil it gently until it is tender; add half a pint of cream, some mace, nutmeg, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour; now boil it gently. This is a good sauce for fowls of all kinds, either roasted or boiled.
  
 PICKLES.
 INSTRUCTIONS.
 PICKLES should never be taken out of their jars except with a wooden or bone spoon. The stone jars should be opened as seldom as possible, except when to fill the small ones in present use; and great attention is requisite to see that they are all tied very closely down. Pickles should be done in stewpans, and always kept in stone jars, any other kind being pernicious, as the acid eats into, and draws the unwholesome particles out of all vessels except stone or glass. It is too common a practice to make use of brass utensils, in order to give the pickles a fine green; but the same purpose can be effected by heating the liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth on the hearth or the chimney corner. By this method you will avoid the pernicious consequences of the use of brass utensils, or of verdigris of any kind, which are in their nature a very powerful poison, and may be productive of serious injury to those who partake of them. Very great care is necessary to make them well.
  
 TO PICKLE SMELTS.
 Gut and clean them, then lay them in a pan in rows; then add ginger, nutmeg, mace, sliced lemon, powdered bay-leaves, and salt.
 Let the pickle be red wine, vinegar, cochineal, and saltpetre.
  
 TO PICKLE SALMON.
 Clean the fish carefully, boil it gently till done, and then take it up; strain the liquor, adding bay-leaves, peppercorns, and salt; give it a boil, and, when cold, add vinegar to the palate, and pour over the fish.
  
 ANCHOVIES.
 Artificial anchovies are made in this manner:–To a peck of sprats take two pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of bay-salt, four ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of prunella salt, and a small quantity of cochineal; pound all in a mortar, put them into a stone pan, a row of sprats, then a layer of the compound, and so on alternately to the top. Press them hard down, cover them close, let them stand for six months, and they will be fit for use. Take particular care that the sprats are very fresh, and do not wash or wipe them, but take them just as they come out of the water.
  
 OYSTERS AND MUSCLES.
 Take one hundred of the newest and best oysters, and be careful to save the liquor in a pan as they are opened. Cut off the black verge, saving the rest, and put them into their own liquor; then put all the liquor and oysters into a kettle, stew them about half an hour on a gentle fire, and do them very slowly, skimming them as the scum rises; then take them off, take out the oysters, and strain the liquor through a fine cloth. Put in the oysters again, take out a pint of the liquor when hot, and add to it a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same of cloves; just give it one boil, put it to the oysters, and stir up the spices well among them; then put in a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of the best white-wine vinegar, and half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper; let them stand till cold, and put the oysters into stone jars, cover them close with a bladder and leather, but be sure they are quite cold before they are covered up. In the like manner do muscles, with this difference only, that as they are small the above ingredients will be sufficient for a quart of muscles; but take great care to pick out the crabs under the tongues of the muscles, and the little weed which grows at the root of the tongue. Muscles must be washed in several waters to clean them from the grit. Put them in a stewpan by themselves, cover them close, and, when open, pick them out of the shells.
  
 TO PICKLE WALNUTS.
 Prepare a pickle of salt and water sufficiently strong to bear an egg, boil and skim it well, then pour it over the nuts, and let them stand twelve or fourteen days; but the pickle must be changed at the end of six days. When they have remained in this manner twelve days, drain off the liquor, and dry them with a coarse cloth; then take white-wine vinegar, mace, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, bruised ginger, and Jamaica peppercorns; boil up the whole, and pour it boiling hot upon the walnuts. When they are cold, put them in a jar, and tie them well down.
 A little garlic and mustard-seed may be added, if agreeable.
 Or,–Pick them when young, cut off the stalks, and put them into a jar; boil some good vinegar with some salt and horseradish, bruised pepper, ginger, and cloves; then pour it hot upon the walnuts. When cold, tie them down with a bladder, and let them stand a year. When the walnuts are consumed, the vinegar may be improved, and made useful for fish-sauce and hashes, by boiling it up with anchovies, cloves, and garlic; then strain it, and cork it up in bottles.
  
 TO PICKLE CABBAGE.
 Slice a large cabbage, season some vinegar according to your fancy, and pour it on boiling hot four times; after which, when cold, tie it down securely.
  
 TO PICKLE ONIONS.
 Take small onions, clear them from their skins, lay them in brine one day, which must be changed once; then dry them well in a clean cloth, and boil some white-wine vinegar, mace, cloves, and whole pepper; pour this over them scalding hot, and, when cold, cover them close.
 Or,–Take the smallest white onions, lay them in water and salt, as above; then put to them a cold pickle of vinegar and spice, and tie down the whole in small bottles with wide mouths.
  
 TO PICKLE BEET AND TURNIPS.
 Boil your beets in salt and water, a pint of vinegar, and some bruised cochineal; when half-done, put in turnips; and when boiled, take them off, and preserve them in the same pickle.
  
 TO PICKLE BARBERRIES.
 Take a quart of white-wine vinegar, and the same quantity of water, to which put one pound of coarse sugar; then take the worst of the barberries, and put them into this liquor, and the best into glasses; then boil the pickle, carefully taking off the scum. Boil it till it assumes a fine colour; let it remain till cold, and then strain it hard through a coarse cloth. Let it settle, then pour it clear into the glasses, and tie it down with bladder. To every pound of sugar thus used half a pound of white salt must be added,
  
 TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE.
 Lay your samphire, when pickled, in a pan; throw some salt over it, and cover it with spring-water. Let it remain twenty-four hours; then strain off the liquor, and place the samphire in a brass saucepan; add some salt, and cover the whole with good vinegar. Cover the saucepan perfectly close, and place it on a gentle fire, where let it remain only till crisp and green, which requires great attention. Then put it in your jar, and cover it close till cold, when it must be tied down with bladder and leather.
  
 RADISH-PODS.
 Put the radish-pods, which must be gathered when they are quite young, into salt and water all night; boil the salt and water they were laid in, pour it upon the pods, and cover the jar close to keep in the steam. When it is nearly cold, make it boiling hot, and pour it on again, and keep doing so till the pods are quite green; then put them into a sieve to drain, and make a pickle for them of white-wine vinegar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horseradish. Pour it boiling hot upon the pods, and when it is almost cold make the vinegar twice as hot as before, and pour it upon them. Tie them down with bladder, and put them by for use.
  
 LEMON PICKLE.
 Take twelve lemons, and cut each into six pieces; put on them two pounds of salt, eight or nine cloves of garlic, with mace, nutmeg, Cayenne, and allspice, half an ounce each, and a quarter of a pound of flour of mustard; to these ingredients add one gallon of good vinegar. Boil the whole for half an hour; then put it in a jar, and set it by for eight weeks, observing to stir it well every day. After which, pour it into small bottles, and close them very well.
  
 INDIAN PICKLE.
 Divide the heads of some cauliflowers into pieces, and add some slices of the inside of the stalk; put to them two white cabbages, cut into pieces, with inside slices of carrots, onions, and turnips. Boil a strong brine, simmer the pickles in it two minutes, drain them, let them dry over an oven till they are shrivelled up, then put them into a jar, and prepare the following pickle:–To four quarts of vinegar add two ounces of flour of mustard, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of ginger, four ounces of horseradish, and a few eschalots. Boil the whole, and pour it on the pickles while hot. When perfectly cold, tie them down, and, if necessary, add more vinegar afterward; and in a month they will be excellent.
  
 CUCUMBER MANGOES.
 Take large cucumbers, cut a small hole in the sides, and extract the seeds, which must be mixed with mustard-seeds and minced garlic; then stuff the cucumbers full with them, and replace the pieces cut from the sides; bind it up with a bit of new packthread. Then boil a sufficient quantity of vinegar with pepper, salt, ginger, and mace, and pour it boiling hot over the mangoes four successive days. On the last add some scraped horseradish and flour of mustard to the vinegar, and stop the whole close. The vinegar may be poured on more than
 four times.
  
 TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS.
 Take two or three hundred, lay them on a dish, salt them, and let them remain eight or nine hours; then drain them, and, laying them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar upon them. Place them near the fire, covered with vine-leaves. If they do not become sufficiently green, strain off the vinegar, boil it, and again pour it over them, covering with fresh leaves. Continue to do so till they become as green as you wish.
  
 CUCUMBERS IN SLICES.
 Slice some large cucumbers before they are too ripe, and put them into an earthen pan. To every dozen of cucumbers slice two large onions, putting a handful of salt between every row: cover them with a dish, and let them stand twenty-four hours. Put them into a colander, and let them dry well; put them into a jar, cover them over with white-wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours; pour the vinegar from them into a saucepan, and boil it with a little salt, mace, whole pepper, a large race of ginger sliced, and then pour on them the boiling vinegar. Cover them close, and, when they are cold, tie them down, and they will be fit for use.
  
 TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS.
 Take button-mushrooms, rub them clean with flannel and salt, throw some salt over them, and lay them in a stewpan with mace and pepper. While the liquor comes out shake them well, and continue to do so till the whole is dried into them again; then pour in as much vinegar as will cover them, give the whole one warm, and turn them into a jar. Prepared in this manner, mushrooms will keep two years, and are very excellent.
 Or,–Clean some button mushrooms with a piece of flannel dipped in salt and water; boil them in salt and water a few moments till the liquor is drawn out; lay them in a cloth to cool, put them in jars, and fill them up with cold vinegar that has been boiled with mace, ginger, and salt; then add one spoonful of sweet oil to each bottle, and cork them down.
  
 TO PICKLE WATERCRESSES.
 Pick them, when young, on a warm day, and put them in a jar of old vinegar which has been taken from green pickles, or onions, and boiled afresh; or boil some fresh vinegar with salt and spice, and when cold put in the watercresses.
  
 TO PICKLE FRENCH DEANS.
 Pick your beans clean, strew some salt over them, and when it begins to dissolve stir them frequently, and the following day drain them; lay them in jars, and cover them with boiling vinegar. Let the jars stand four days some distance from the fire, then put the vinegar and pickles into a stewpan, set it on the fire, covered with vine-leaves, and when the leaves turn yellow put in fresh ones, till they become of a fine green colour. Observe,– they must only simmer; boiling would spoil them. Add sliced ginger, peppercorns, &c. Gherkins and radish-pods are done in the same manner.
  
 TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.
 Slice them into a sieve, and sprinkle each layer with salt; let the whole drain three days, then add some sliced beet-root, and place the whole in a jar, over which pour boiling vinegar. The purple red cabbage is the finest. Mace, bruised ginger, whole pepper, and cloves may be boiled with the vinegar, and will make a great improvement.
  
 MANGOES.
 Gather small-sized melons, put them in a pot, pour upon them strong salt and water, boiling, and cover them. Next day cut a slip from the stem to the blossom end, and take out the seeds; return them to the brine, and let them remain eight days; then put them in strong vinegar for eighteen days. Wipe the insides with a soft cloth, stuff and tie them, pack them in stone-ware pots with the slit upwards, strew some of the stuffing over each layer, and keep them covered with the best vinegar.
 The stuffing for mangoes must be made according to the following rule:–Half a pound of white race ginger, washed clean; pour boiling water on it, and let it stand twenty-four hours, slice it thin, and dry it; half a pound of scraped and dried horseradish; half a pound of mustard-seed, washed and dried; half a pound of white onion chopped fine; half an ounce of mace, and one nutmeg pounded fine; one ounce of turmerie, and two ounces of whole black pepper: make these articles into a paste with a few table-spoonfuls of made mustard and four ounces of sweet oil. Some put a clove of garlic into each mango.
  
 RADISH PODS.
 They must be young and tender; scald them with boiling salt and water, and cover close to keep in the steam; repeat this every day until they are a good green. Then cover them with good vinegar, and add mace and whole pepper. They make a handsome garnish.
  
 MADE DISHES.
 TO DRESS SCOTCH COLLOPS.
 TAKE a piece of fillet of veal, cut it in thin pieces as big as a dollar, but very thin, shake a little flour over it, then put a little butter in a fryingpan, and melt it; put in the collops, and fry them quick till they are brown; then lay them in a dish. Have ready a good ragout made thus:–Take a little butter in a stewpan, and melt it; then add a large spoonful of flour, stir it about till it is smooth; then put in a pint of good brown gravy. Season it with pepper and salt; pour in a small glass of white wine, some veal sweetbreads, forcemeat-balls, truffles and morels, ox-palates, and mushrooms; stew them gently for half an hour, add the juice of half a lemon to it, put it over the collops, and garnish with rashers of bacon. Some like the Scotch collops made thus;–Put the collops into the ragout, and stew them for five minutes.
  
 WHITE SCOTCH COLLOPS.
 Cut the veal the same as for Scotch collops, throw them in a stewpan, put boiling water over them, and stir them about; then strain them off. Take a pint of good veal broth, and thicken it; add a bundle of sweet herbs, with some mace; put in sweetbread, forcemeat-balls, and fresh mushrooms; if no fresh to be had, use pickled ones washed in warm water; stew them fifteen minutes. Add the yelk of an egg and a half, and a pint of cream; beat them well together with some nutmeg grated, and keep stirring till it boils up. Add the juice of a quarter of a lemon; then put it in a dish. Garnish with lemon.
  
 A FILLET OF VEAL WITH COLLOPS.
 For an alteration, take a small fillet of veal, cut what collops you want; then take the udder, and fill it with forcemeat, roll it round, tie it with packthread across, and roast it; lay the collops in a dish, and lay your udder in the middle. Garnish your dishes with lemon.
  
 FORCEMEAT-BALLS.
 You are to observe that forcemeat-balls are a great addition to all made dishes, made thus:–Take half a pound of veal and half a pound of suet, cut fine, and beat in a marble mortar or wooden bowl; have a few sweet herbs, shred fine, dried mace beat fine, a small nutmeg grated, or half a large one, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, a little pepper and salt, and the yelks of two eggs; mix all these well together, then roll them in little round balls and little long balls; roll them in flour, and fry them brown. If they are for any thing of white sauce, put a little water in a saucepan, and, when the water boils, put them in and let them boil for a few minutes, but never fry them for white sauce.
  
 TRUFFLES AND MORELS, GOOD IN SAUCES AND SOUPS.
 Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, let them be well washed in warm water to get the sand and dirt out, then simmer them in two or three spoonfuls of water for a few minutes, and put them with the liquor in the sauce. They thicken both sauce and soup, and give them a fine flavour.
  
 TO STEW OX·PALATES.
 Stew them tender, which must be done by putting them in cold water, and let them stew softly over a slow fire till they are tender; then take off the two skins, cut them in pieces, and put them either in a made dish or soup, and cocks’ combs and artichoke­bottoms cut small and put in the made dish. Garnish the dishes with lemon, sweetbreads stewed, for white dishes; and fried for brown ones, and cut in little pieces.
  
 TO RAGOUT A LEG OF MUTTON.
 Take all the skin and fat off, cut it very thin the right way of the grain, then butter the stewpan, and shake flour in it; slice half a lemon and half an onion, cut them small, with a little bundle of sweet herbs and a blade of mace; put all together with the meat in the pan, stir it a minute or two, and then put in six spoonfuls of gravy; have ready an anchovy minced small, mix it with butter and flour, stir it all together for six minutes, and then dish it up.
  
 A BROWN FRICASSEE.
 You must take rabbits, or chickens, and skin them; then cut them in small pieces, and rub them over with yelks of eggs. Have ready grated bread, a little beaten mace, and grated nutmeg mixed together, and then roll them in it; put a little butter in a stewpan, and when it is melted put in the meat. Fry it of a fine brown, and take care it does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Pour the butter from it, and put in half a pint of brown gravy, a glass of white wine, a few mushrooms, or two spoonfuls of the pickle, a little salt, if wanted, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When it is of a fine thickness, dish it up, and send it to table.
  
 A WHITE FRICASSEE.
 Take two chickens, and cut them in small pieces; put them in warm water to draw out the blood, then in some good veal broth (if no veal broth, a little boiling water), and stew them gently with a bundle of sweet herbs and a blade of mace till they are tender; then take out the sweet herbs, add a little flour and butter boiled together to thicken it; then add half a pint of cream, the yelk of an egg beat fine, and some pickled mushrooms,–the best way is, to put fresh mushrooms in; if no fresh, then pickled;–keep stirring it till it boils up, then add the juice of half a lemon, stir it well to keep it from curdling, then put it in a dish. Garnish with lemon. Rabbits, lamb, veal, or tripe may be dressed the same way.
  
 TO FRY TRIPE.
 Cut tripe in long pieces of about three inches wide, and all the breadth of the double; put it in small-beer batter, or yelks of eggs. Have a large pan of fat, and fry it brown; then take it out, and put it to drain. Dish it up with plain butter.
  
 TO STEW TRIPE.
 Cut it as you do for frying, and set on some water in a sauce­pan with two or three onions cut in slices, and some salt. When it boils put in the tripe; ten minutes will do. Send it to table with the liquor in the dish and the onions. Have butter and mustard in a cup, and dish it up. You may put in as many onions as you like to mix with the sauce, or leave them quite out, just as you please.
  
 A FRICASSEE OF PIGEONS.
 Take eight pigeons just killed, cut them in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan with a pint of claret and a pint of water. Season with salt and pepper, a blade or two of mace, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in a very little flour; cover it close, and let it stew till there is just enough for sauce; then take out the onion and sweet herbs, beat up the yelks of three eggs, grate half a nutmeg, and with a spoon push the meat to one side of the pan, and the gravy to the other, and stir in the eggs. Keep them stirring, for fear of turning to curds; and when the sauce is fine and thick, shake all together, and then put the meat in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and have ready slices of bacon toasted and fried oysters; throw the oysters all over, and lay the bacon round. Garnish with lemon.
  
 TO HASH A CALF’S HEAD.
 Boil the head almost enough, then take the best half, and with a sharp knife take it nicely from the bone, with the two eyes. Lay it in a little deep dish before a good fire, and take care no ashes fall into it, and then hack it with a knife cross and cross. Grate nutmeg all over, the yelks of two eggs, a little pepper and salt, a few sweet herbs, crumbs of bread, and lemon-peel chopped very fine; baste it with a little butter, then baste it again. Keep the dish turning, that it may be all brown alike; cut the other half and tongue in little thin bits, and set on a pint of drawn gravy in a saucepan, a little bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, pepper and salt, a glass of white wine, and two eschalots; boil all these together a few minutes, strain it through a sieve, and put it in a clean stewpan with the hash. Flour the meat before you put it in, and add a few mushrooms, a spoonful of the pickle, two spoonfuls of catsup, and a few truffles and morels; stir all together for a few minutes, then beat up half the brains, and stir in the stewpan, and a little bit of butter rolled in flour. Take the other half of the brains, and beat them up with a little lemon-peel cut fine, a little nutmeg grated, beaten mace, thyme shred small, parsley, the yelk. of an egg, and have some good dripping boiling in a stewpan; then fry the brains in little cakes about as big as a dollar. Fry twenty oysters dipped in the yelk of an egg, toast some slices of bacon, fry a few forcemeat-balls, and have ready a hot dish (if pewter, over a few coals; if china, over a pan of hot water). Pour in your hash, then lay in your toasted bread, throw the forcemeat-balls over the hash, and garnish the dish with fried oysters, the fried brains, and lemon. Throw the rest over the hash, lay the bacon round the dish, and send it to table.
  
 TO BAKE A CALF’S OR SHEEP’S HEAD.
 Take the head, pick it, and wash it clean; take an earthen dish large enough to lay the head in, rub a little piece of butter over the dish, then lay some long iron skewers across the top of the dish, and put the head on; skewer up the meat in the middle that it do not lie on the dish; then grate nutmeg all over it, a few sweet herbs shred small, crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel cut fine, and then flour it all over. Stick pieces of butter in the eyes and all over the head, and flour it again. Let it be well baked and of a fine brown. You may throw pepper and salt over it, and put in the dish a piece of beef cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, some whole pepper, a blade of mace, two cloves, a pint of water, and boil the brains with sage. When the head is done enough, lay it in a dish, and set it to the fire to keep warm; then stir all together in the dish, and boil it in a saucepan; strain it off, put it in the saucepan again, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage in the brains chopped fine, a spoonful of catsup, and two spoonfuls of red wine. Boil them together; take the brains, beat them well, and mix them with the sauce; pour it in the dish, and send it to table. You must bake the tongue with the head, and do not cut it out; it will lie the handsomer in the dish.
  
 TO DRESS A LAMB’S HEAD.
 Boil the head and pluck tender, but do not let the liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it cross and cross, grate some nutmeg over it, and lay it in a dish before a good fire; then grate some crumbs of bread, sweet herbs rubbed, a little lemon­peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and salt, and baste it with a little butter; then throw flour over it, and just as it is done do the same, baste it, and dredge it. Take half the liver, the lights, the heart, and tongue, and chop them very small with six or eight spoonfuls of gravy or water. First shake some flour over the meat, and stir it together; then put in the gravy or water, a piece of butter rolled in a little flour, a little pepper and salt, and what runs from the head in the dish: simmer all together for a few minutes, and add half a spoonful of vinegar; pour it in a dish, lay the head in the middle of the mincemeat, have ready the other half of the liver cut thin, with slices of bacon broiled, and lay round the head. Garnish the dish with lemon, and send it to table.
  
 TO RAGOUT A NECK OF VEAL.
 Cut a neck of veal in steaks, flatten them with a rolling-pin, season with salt, pepper, cloves, and mace, lard them with bacon, lemon-peel, and thyme, dip them in the yelks of eggs, make a sheet of strong cap-paper up at the four corners, in the form of a drippingpan; pin up the corners, butter the paper, and also the gridiron; set it over a charcoal fire, put in the meat, let it do leisurely, keep basting and turning it to keep in the gravy, and when it is done enough have ready half a pint of strong gravy, season it high, put in mushrooms and pickles, forcemeat-balls dipped in the yelks of eggs, oysters stewed and fried, to lay round and at the top of the dish. Serve it up. If for a brown ragout, put in red wine; if white, white wine, with the yelks of eggs beaten up with two or three spoonfuls of cream.
  
 TO STEW A TURKEY OR FOWL.
 Let a pot be very clean, lay four skewers at the bottom, and a turkey or fowl on them, and put in a quart of gravy; take a bunch of celery, cut it small and wash it clean, put it in the pot with two or three blades of mace, let it stew softly till there is just enough for sauce, then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of red wine, two of catsup, and just as much pepper and salt as will season it. Lay the fowl or turkey in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table.
 If the fowl or turkey be done before the sauce, take it up till the sauce is boiled enough, then put it in, let it boil a minute or two, and dish it up.
  
 TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
 Be sure that the pot or saucepan be clean. Lay at the bottom four wooden skewers, wash and clean the knuckle very well, lay it in the pot with two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a little piece of thyme, a small onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts of water. Cover close, make it boil, then let it only simmer for two hours; and when it is done enough take it up, lay it in a dish, and strain the broth over it.
  
 TO FORCE A SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
 When it is quite roasted, take it up, and lay it in the dish with the inside uppermost; with a sharp knife lift up the skin, hack and cut the inside very fine, shake pepper and salt over it, with two eschalots, cover it with the skin, and send it to table. You may add red wine or vinegar as you like.
  
 BEEF A-LA-MODE.
 Take a small buttock of beef, or leg-of-mutton piece, or a piece of buttock of beef, also a dozen of cloves, eight blades of mace, and some allspice beat fine; chop a large handful of parsley and all sorts of herbs fine; cut bacon as for beef a-la-daub, and put them in the spice and herbs, with some pepper and salt, and thrust a large pin through the beef; put it in a pot, and cover it with water. Chop four large onions and four blades of garlic very fine, six bay-leaves, and a handful of button-mushrooms; put all in the pot with a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of red wine. Cover the pot close, and stew it for six hours, if a moderate-sized piece; if a large piece, eight hours: then take it out, put it in a dish, cover it close, and keep it hot; take the gravy, and skim all the fat off; strain it through a sieve, pick out the mushrooms, and put them in the gravy; season with Cayenne pepper and salt, and boil it fifteen minutes. Then put the beef in a soup-dish, and the gravy over it; or cut it in thin slices, and pour the liquor over it; or put it in a deep dish, and all the gravy in another. When cold, cut it in slices, and put some of the gravy round it, which will be of a strong jelly.
  
 BEEF-COLLOPS.
 Take rump-steaks, or any tender piece cut like Scotch collops, only larger, hack them a little with a knife, and flour them; put butter in a stewpan and melt it, then put in the collops, and fry them quick for two minutes; put in a pint of gravy and a little butter rolled in flour; season with pepper and salt. Cut four pickled cucumbers in thin slices, half a walnut, a few capers, and a little onion shred fine; stew them five minutes, then put them in a hot dish, and send them to table. You may put half a glass of white wine into it.
  
 TO STEW BEEFSTEAKS.
 Take rump-steaks, pepper and salt them, lay them in a stew­pan, pour in half a pint of water, a blade or two of mace, two or three cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, an anchovy, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion; cover closc, and let them stew softly till they are tender; then take out the steaks, flour them, fry them in fresh buttter, pour away all the fat, strain the sauce they were stewed in, and pour it in the pan; toss it all up together till the sauce is hot and thick. If you add a quarter of a pint of oysters it will make it the better. Lay the steaks in the dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with any pickle you like.
  
 TO FRY BEEFSTEAKS.
 Pepper and salt rump-steaks, fry them in a little butter very quick and brown, take them out, and put them into a dish, pour the fat out of the fryingpan, and then take half a pint of hot gravy–if no gravy, half a pint of hot water–and put in the pan a little butter rolled in flour, pepper and salt, and two or three eschalots chopped fine. Boil them in the pan for two minutes, then put it over the steaks, and send them to table.
  
 TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.
 Having boiled it till it is little more than half-done, take it up. and peel off the skin; take salt, pepper, beaten mace, grated nutmeg, a handful of parsley, a little thyme, winter-savory, and sweet marjoram, all chopped fine, and mixed, and stuff them in great holes in the fat and lean; the rest spread over it with the yelks of two eggs. Save the gravy that runs out, put to it a pint of claret, and put the meat in a deep pan; pour the liquor in, cover close, and bake it two hours. Put it in the dish, pour the liquor over it, and send it to table.
  
 TO STEW NEATS’ TONGUES WHOLE.
 Take two tongues, let them stew in water just enough to cover them for two hours, then peel them, put them in again with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muslin rag, a spoonful of capers chopped, turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; let all stew together softly over a slow tire for two hours, then take out the spice and sweet herbs, and send it to table. You may leave out the turnips and carrots, or boil them by themselves and lay them in a dish, just as you like.
  
 A MUTTON HASH.
 Cut mutton in little bits as thin as you can, strew a little flour over it, have ready some gravy (enough for sauce) wherein sweet herbs, onions, pepper, and salt have been boiled; strain it, put in the meat, with a little piece of butter rolled in flour, a little salt, a eschalot cut fine, and a few capers and gherkins chopped fine; toss all together for a minute or two. Have ready bread toasted and cut in thin sippets, lay them round the dish, and pour in the hash. Garnish the dish with pickles and horseradish.
 N.B.–Some like a glass of red wine or walnut-pickle. You may put just what you will in the hash. If the sippets are toasted it is better.
  
 A DISH FOR A CONSUMPTIVE PERSON.
 Take any quantity of veal cut into slices, put the meat into an earthen pot with plenty of sliced turnips, cover the vessel close, and let it stand up to the brim in boiling water; add a small portion of salt. When sufficiently done, serve it up. No water is required, as the turnips are sufficiently succulent for the purpose of tendering the meat and extracting its juices. The slices of veal must be well beaten. This dish is better than physic: let the consumptive give it a trial.
  
 TO MAKE SOUSE.
 Let all the pieces of pork which you intend to souse be repeatedly placed in cold water and washed. When the blood, &c. is entirely washed away, scrape and clean each piece separately. Now boil them in meal and water, with salt, until they are very tender; boil until you can take all the bones cut. When cold, season the insides with pepper, salt, and some spice; make it into a roll, and press it gently. Put the meat into pots, and cover it with a mixture of meal and water with vinegar. Stop the vessels closely. The liquor must be renewed every few weeks.
  
 BAKED MUTTON-CHOPS.
 Take a loin or neck of mutton, cut it into steaks, put pepper and salt over it, butter in a dish, and lay in the steaks; take a quart of milk, six eggs beat up fine, and four spoonfuls of flour; beat your flour and eggs in a little milk first, and then put the rest to it; put in a little beaten ginger and a little salt. Pour this over the steaks, and send it to the oven. An hour and a half will bake it.
  
 TO FRY A LOIN OF LAMB.
 Cut it in chops, rub it over on both sides with the yelk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs, a little parsley, thyme, marjoram, and winter-savory chopped fine, and a little lemon-peel chopped fine; fry in butter of a nice light brown, and send it in a dish by itself. Garnish with a good deal of fried parsley.
  
 A RAGOUT OF LAMB.
 Take a fore-quarter of lamb, cut the knuckle-bone off, lard it with thin bits of bacon, flour it, fry it of a fine brown, and put it in an earthen pot or stewpan; put to it a quart of broth, or good gravy, a bundle of herbs, a little mace, two or three cloves, and a little white pepper; cover close, and let it stew pretty fast for half an hour; pour the liquor all out, strain it, and keep the lamb hot in the pot till the sauce is ready. Take half a pint of oysters, flour them, fry them brown, drain out all the fat clean that you fried them in, skim all the fat off the gravy, then pour in the oysters, and put in an anchovy and two spoonfuls of either red or white wine. Boil all together till there is just enough for sauce; add fresh mushrooms, and some pickled ones, with a spoonful of the pickle, or the juice of half a lemon. Lay your lamb in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon.
  
 TO STEW A LAMB’S OR CALF’S HEAD.
 Wash and pick it very clean, lay it in water for an hour, take out the brains, and with a sharp penknife carefully take out the bones and tongue, but be careful you do not break the meat; then take out the two eyes, and take two pounds of veal and two of beef-suet, a little thyme, a good piece of lemon-peel minced, a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies; chop all well together.
 Grate a small stale loaf, and mix all together, with the yelks of four eggs; save enough of this meat to make twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh mushrooms cleanly peeled and washed, the yelks of six eggs chopped, half a pint of oysters cleanly washed, or pickled cockles; mix them together, but first stew the oysters, and put to it two quarts of gravy, with a blade or two of mace. It will be proper to tie the head with packthread, cover close, and let it stew two hours; in the mean time, beat up the brains with lemon-peel cut fine, a little parsley chopped, half a nutmeg grated, and the yelk of an egg; have dripping boiling, fry half the brains in little cakes, and fry the balls; keep them hot by the fire. Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, then strain the gravy that the head was stewed in, put truffles and morels to it with the liquor, and a few mushrooms. Boil all together, put in the rest of the brains that are not fried, stew them together for a minute or two, pour it over the head, and lay the fried brains and balls round it. Garnish with lemon. You may fry twelve oysters.
  
 SWEETBREADS.
 Do not put any water or gravy in the stewpan, but put the same veal and pork over the sweetbreads, and season as under-directed. Cover close, put fire over as well as under, and when they are done enough take out the sweetbreads; put in a ladleful of gravy, boil and strain it, skim off the fat, let it boil till it jellies, then put in the sweetbreads to glaze. Lay essence of ham in the dish, and the sweetbreads on it; or make a rich gravy with mushrooms, truffles and morels, a glass of white wine, and two spoonfuls of catsup. Garnish with cocks’ combs forced and stewed in the gravy. You may add to the first, truffles, morels, mushrooms, cocks’ combs, palates, artichoke-bottoms, two spoonfuls of white wine, two of catsup, or just as you please.
 N.B.–There are many ways of dressing sweetbreads: you may lard them with thin slips of pork, and roast them with what sauce you please; or you may marinate them, cut them in thin slices, flour, and fry them. Serve them with fried parsley and either butter or gravy. Garnish with lemon.
  
 TO BOIL A HAUNCH OR NECK OF VENISON.
 Lay it in salt for a week, then boil it in a cloth well floured, and for every pound of venison allow a quarter of an hour for boiling. For sauce, boil cauliflowers pulled into little sprigs in milk and water, some fine white cabbages, turnips cut in dice, with beet-root cut in long narrow pieces, about an inch and a half long and half an inch thick; lay a sprig of cauliflower, add some of the turnips mashed with some cream, and also a little butter. Let cabbage be boiled, and then beaten in a saucepan with a piece of butter and salt; lay that next the cauliflower, then the turnips, then cabbage, and so on, till the dish is full. Place the beet-root here and there, just as you fancy; it looks very pretty, and is a fine dish.
 N.B.–A leg of mutton cut venison-fashion and dressed the same way is a pretty dish; or a fine neck, with the scrag cut off. This eats well boiled or hashed with gravy and sweet sauce the next day.
  
 TO ROAST TRIPE.
 Cut tripe in two square  pieces, somewhat long; have a force­meat made of crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, and the yelks of eggs mixed together; spread it on the fat side of the tripe, and lay the other fat side next it; roll it as light as you can, and tie it with packthread; spit it, roast it, and baste it with butter. When done, lay it on a dish; and for sauce melt butter, and add what drops from the tripe. Boil it together, and garnish with raspings.
  
 WELCH RABBIT.
 Cut your cheese into small slips, if soft; if hard, grate it down. Have ready a spirit of wine lamp, &c. and deep block-tin dish; put in the cheese with a lump of butter, and set it over the lamp. Have ready the yelk of an egg whipped, with half a glass of Madeira, and as much ale or beer; stir your cheese, when melted, till it is thoroughly mixed with the butter; then add gradually the egg and wine, and keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. Season with Cayenne and grated nutmeg.–To be eaten with a thin hot toast.
  
 TO DRESS POULTRY.
 TO ROAST A TURKEY.
 THE best way to roast a turkey is, to loosen the skin on the breast, and fill it with forcemeat made thus:–Take a quarter of a pound of beef-suet, as much crumb of bread, a little lemon-peel, an anchovy, some nutmeg, pepper, parsley, and thyme; chop and beat them all well together, mix them with the yelk of an egg, and stuff up the breast.  When you have no suet, butter will do. Or make forcemeat thus:–Spread bread and butter thin, and grate nutmeg over it; when you have enough, roll it up, and stuff the breast of the turkey; then roast it of a fine brown, but be sure to pin white paper on the breast till it is nearly done enough. You must have good gravy in the dish, and bread-sauce made thus:–Take a good piece of crumb, put it in a pint of water, with a blade or two of mace, two or three cloves, and some whole pepper. Boil it up five or six times, then with a spoon take out the spice you had before put in, and pour off the water (you may boil an onion in it, if you please); then beat up the bread with a good piece of butter and a little salt. Or onion-sauce made thus:–Take onions, peel them, and cut them in thin slices, and boil them half an hour in milk and water; then drain the water from them, and beat them up with a good piece of butter; shake a little flour in, and stir the whole together with a little cream, if you have it (or milk will do); put the sauce into boats, and garnish with lemon.
 Another way to make sauce is, take half a pint of oysters, strain the liquor, and put the oysters with the liquor in a saucepan, with a blade or two of mace; let them just plump, pour in a glass of white wine, let it boil once, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve this up by itself with good gravy in the dish, for everybody does not like oyster-sauce. This makes a pretty side-dish for supper, or a corner-dish of a table for dinner. If you chafe it in a dish, add half a pint of gravy to it, and boil it up together.
  
 MUSHROOM-SAUCE FOR WHITE F'OWLS OF ALL SORTS.
 Take a quart of fresh mushrooms well cleaned and washed, cut them in two, put them in a stewpan with a little butter, a blade of mace, and a little salt; stew it gently for an hour; then add a pint of cream and the yelks of two eggs beaten very well, and keep stirring it till it boils up; then squeeze half a lemon, put it over the fowls or turkeys, or in basins, or in a dish, with a piece of French bread, first buttered, then toasted brown, and just dip it in boiling water; put it in the dish, and the mushrooms over.
  
 MUSHROOM-SAUCE FOR WHITE FOWLS BOILED.
 Take half a pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of butter, and stir them together one way till it is thick; then add a spoonful of mushroom-pickle, pickled mushrooms, or fresh if you have them. Garnish only with lemon.
  
 CELERY-SAUCE.
 Take a large bunch of celery, wash and pare it clean, cut it in little thin bits, and boil it softly in a little water till it is tender; then add a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, thickened with a piece of butter rolled in flour; then boil it up, and pour it in a dish.
 You may make it with cream thus:–Boil celery as above, and add mace, nutmeg, a piece of butter as big as a walnut rolled in flour, and half a pint of cream. Boil all together.
 This sauce is excellent either for roasted or boiled fowls, turkeys, partridges, or any other game.
  
 EGG-SAUCE FOR ROASTED CHICKENS.
 Melt butter thick and fine, chop two or three hard-boiled eggs fine, put them in a basin, pour the butter over them, and have good gravy in the dish.
  
 TO STEW A TURKEY BROWN.
 Take a turkey after it is nicely picked and drawn, fill the skin of the breast with forcemeat, and put an anchovy, a eschalot, and thyme in the belly; lard the breast with bacon; then put a piece of butter in the stewpan, flour the turkey, and fry it just of a fine brown; then take it out, and put it in a deep stewpan, or a little pot that will just hold it, and put in as much gravy as will barely cover it, a glass of white wine, some whole pepper, mace, two or three cloves, and a little bundle of sweet herbs; cover close, and stew it for an hour. Then take up the turkey, and keep it hot, covered, by the fire; boil the sauce to about a pint, strain it off, add the yelks of two eggs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; stir it till it is thick, and then lay the turkey in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. You may have ready some little French loaves about the size of an egg, cut off the tops, and take out the crumbs, then fry them of a fine brown, fill them with stewed oysters, lay them round the dish, and garnish with lemon.