TO ROAST A PIG.
 Spit a pig, and lay it to the fire, which must be a very good one at each end, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay the pig down, take a little sage shred small, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and pepper
 and salt; put them in the pig, and sew it up with coarse thread; flour it well over, and keep flouring it till the eyes drop out, or you find the crackling hard. Be sure to save all the gravy that comes out of it, which you must do by setting basons or pans under the pig in the dripping pan, as soon as you find the gravy begins to run. When the pig is enough, stir the fire up brisk; take a coarse cloth, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in it, and rub the pig over till the crackling is crisp, then take it up. Lay it in a dish, and with a sharp knife cut off the head, then cut the pig in two, before you draw out the spit. Cut the ears off the head, and lay them at each end; cut the under jaw in two, and lay on each side: melt some good butter, take the gravy you saved, and put in it, boil it, and pour it in the dish with the brains bruised fine, and the sage mixed together, and then send it to table.
 Another Way to roast a Pig.
 Chop sage and onion very fine, a few crumbs of bread, a little butter, pepper and salt, rolled up together; put it in the belly, and sew it up: before you lay down the pig, rub it all over with sweet oil. When done, take a dry cloth, and wipe it, then put it in a dish, cut it up, and send it to table with the sauce as above.
 Different sorts of Sauce for a Pig.
 You are to observe there are several ways of making sauce for a pig. Some do not love sage, only a crust of bread, but then you should have a little dried sage rubbed and mixed with the gravy and butter. Some love bread sauce in a bason, made thus: take a pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil it about five or six minutes, then pour the water off, take out the spice, and beat up the bread with a good piece of butter. Some love a few currants boiled in it, a glass of wine, and a little sugar: but that you may do just as you like. Others take half a pint of beef gravy, and the gravy which comes out of the pig, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of catchup, and boil them all together, then take the brains of the pig and bruise them fine: put these with the sage in the pig, and pour in the dish: it is a very good sauce. When you have not gravy enough come out of your pig with the butter for sauce, take half a pint of
 veal gravy, and add to it; or stew pettitoes, and take as much of that liquor as will do for sauce mixed with the other.
 TO BAKE A PIG.
 If you cannot roast a pig, lay it in a dish, flour it all over well and rub it over with butter, butter the dish you lay it in, and put it in the oven. When it is enough, draw it out of the oven’s mouth and rub it over with a buttery
 cloth; then put it in the oven again till it is dry; take it out and lay it in a dish; cut it up, take a little veal gravy; and take off the fat in the dish it was baked in, and there will be some good gravy at the bottom; put that to it with a little piece of butter rolled in flour; boil it up
 and put it in the dish with the brains and sage in the belly. Some love a pig brought whole to table, then you are only to put what sauce you like in the dish.
 TO MELT BUTTER.
 In melting butter you must be very careful: let the saucepan be well tinned: take a spoonful of water, a little dust of flour and butter, cut in pieces; be sure to keep shaking the pan one way, for fear it should oil: when melted, let it boil and it will be smooth and fine. A silver pan is best.
 TO ROAST GEESE, TURKEYS, &c.
 When you roast a goose, turkey, or fowl of any sort, singe them with a piece of white paper, and baste them with a piece of butter; drudge them with a little flour; and when the smoke begins to draw to the fire, and they look plump, baste them again, and drudge them with a little flour, and take them up.
 SAUCE FOR A GOOSE.
 For a goose make a little good gravy, and put it in a bason by itself, and some apple sauce in another.
 SAUCE FOR A TURKEY.
 For a turkey, good gravy in the dish, and bread or onion sauce in a bason.
 SAUCE FOR FOWLS.
 To fowls you should put good gravy in the dish, and either bread or egg-sauce in a bason.
 SAUCE FOR DUCKS.
 For ducks a little gravy in the dish, an onion in a cup, if liked.
 SAUCE FOR PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES.
 Pheasants and partridges should have gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a cup, and poverroy-sauce.
 SAUCE FOR LARKS.
 Roast larks, and all the time they are roasting, baste them very gently with butter, and sprinkle crumbs of bread on them till they are almost done; then let them brown before you take them up. The best way of making crumbs of bread is to rub them through a fine cullender, and put a little batter in a stew pan: melt it, put in your crumbs of bread, and keep them stirring till they are of a light brown; put them in a sieve to drain a few minutes, lay your larks in a dish, and the crumbs all round almost as high as the larks, with plain butter in a cup, and some gravy in another.
 TO ROAST WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.
 Put them on a little spit; take a round of a threepenny loaf, and toast it brown, then lay it in a dish under the birds: baste them with a little butter, and let the trale drop on the toast. When they are roasted, put the toast in the dish, lay the woodcocks on it, and have a quarter of a pint of gravy; pour it in a dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing-dish, for three minutes, and send them to table.
 You are to observe, we never take any thing out of a woodcock or snipe.
 TO ROAST A PIGEON.
 Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, a little pepper and salt; tie the neck end tight; tie a string round the legs and rump, and fasten the other end to the top of the chimney-piece. Baste with butter, and when they are enough, lay them in a dish, and they will swim with gravy. You ma put them on a little spit, and tie both ends clo.
 TO BROIL A PIGEON.
 When you broil them, do them in the same manner, and take care your fire is clear, and set your gridiron high, that they may not burn, and have a little parsley and butter in a cup. You may split and broil them with a little pepper and salt; and you may roast them only with parsley and butter in a dish.
 Directions for Geese and Ducks.
 As to geese and ducks, you should have sage and onion shred fine, with pepper and salt put into the belly.
 Put only pepper and salt in wild ducks, easterlings, wigeon, teal, and all other sorts of wild fowl, with gravy in the dish.
 TO ROAST A HARE.
 Take a hare when it is cased, truss it in this manner: bring the two hind legs up to its sides, pull the fore-legs back, put your skewer first into the hind-leg, then in the fore- leg, and thrust it through the body; put the fore-leg on, and then the hind-leg, and a skewer through the top of the shoulders and back part of the head, which will hold the head up. Make a pudding thus; take a quarter of a pound of beef-suet, as much crumb of bread, a handful of parsley, chopped fine, sweet herbs of all sorts, such as basil, marjorum, winter-savory, and a little thyme, chopped very fine, a little nutmeg grated, lemon peel cut fine, pepper and salt, chop the liver fine, and put it in with two eggs, mix it and put it in the belly; sew or skewer it up; spit it, and lay it to the fire, which must be a good one.
 Different sorts of Sauce for a Hare.
 Take a pint of cream, and half pound of fresh butter: put them in a saucepan, and keep stirring it with a spoon till the butter is melted, and the sauce is thick; then take up the hare; and pour the sauce in a dish. Another way to make sauce for a hare, is to make good gravy, thickened with a little butter rolled in flour, and pour it in the dish. You may leave the butter out if you do not like it, and have currant jelly warmed in a cup, or red wine and sugar boiled to a syrup, done thus—take halt a pint of red wine, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and set over a slow fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour. You may do half the quantity, and
 put it in a sauce-boat or bason.
 TO BROIL STEAKS
 First have a very clear brisk fire; let your gridiron be very clean; put it on the fire; take a chafing-dish, with a few hot coals out of the fire. Put the dish on it which is to lay your steaks on; then take fine rump-steaks half an inch thick, put a little pepper and salt on them, lay them on the gridiron, and (if you like it) take a shalot or two, or a good onion, and cut it fine; put it in a dish. Do not turn your steak till the one side is done; then when you
 turn the other side there will soon be a fine gravy lie on the top of the steak, which you must be careful not to loose. When the steaks are enough, lake them carefully off into your dish, that none of the gravy be lost: have ready a hot dish and cover, and carry them hot to table.
 Directions concerning the Sauce for Steaks.
 If you have pickles or horse-radish with steaks, never garnish your dish, because the garnish will be dry and the steaks cold; lay those things on little plates, and carry to table. The great nicety is to have them hot and full of gravy.
 General Directions concerning Broiling.
 As to mutton and pork steaks, you must keep them turning quick on the gridiron, and have your dish ready over a chafing-dish of hot coals, and carry them to table covered hot.
 When you broil fowls or pigeons, always take care your fire is clear; and never baste any thing on the gridiron, for it only makes it smoaked and burnt.
 General Directions concerning Boiling.
 As to all sorts of boiled meats, allow a quarter of an hour to every pound: be sure the pot is very clean, and skim it well, for every thing will have a scum rise; and if it boils down, it makes the meat black. All sorts of fresh meat you are to put in when the water boils, but salt meat when the water is cold.
 TO BOIL A HAM.
 When you boil a ham put it in the copper whilst the water is cold; when it boils, be careful it boils slowly. A ham of twenty pounds takes four hours and a half larger and smaller
 in proportion. Keep the copper well skimmed. A green ham wants no soaking; but an old ham must be soaked sixteen hours, in a large tub of soft water.
 TO BOIL A TONGUE.
 A tongue, if soft, put in a pot over night, and do not let it boil till about three hours before dinner, then boil all that three hours: if fresh out of the pickle, two hours and a half, and put it in when the water boils.
 TO BOIL FOWLS AND HOUSE LAMB.
 Fowls and house lamb boil in a pot by themselves, in a good deal of water; and if any scum arises, take it off. They will be sweeter and whiter than if boiled in a cloth. A little chicken will be done in fifteen minutes, a large one in twenty minutes, a good fowl in half an hour, a little turkey or goose in an hour, and a large turkey in an hour and a half.
 Sauce for a Boiled Turkey
 The best sauce for a boiled turkey is good oyster and celery sauce. Make oyster sauce thus: a pint of oysters, set them off, strain the liquor from them, put them in cold water, and wash and beard them: put them in your liquor, in stewpan, with a blade of mace, and butter rolled in flour, and a quarter of a lemon; boil them up, then put in half a pint of cream, and boil it all gently: take the lemon and mace out, squeeze the juice of the lemon into the auce, then serve it in the boats. Make celery sauce thus: take the white part of the celery, cut it about one inch long: boil it in some water till it is tender; then take half a pint of veal broth, a blade of mace, and thicken it with a little flour and butter; put in half a pint of cream, boil them up gently together, put in your celery, and boil it up; then pour it into your boats.
 Sauce for a boiled Goose.
 Sauce for a boiled goose must be either onions or cabbage, first boiled, and then stewed in butter for five minutes.
 Sauce for boiled Ducks and Rabbits.
 To boiled ducks or rabbits, you must pour boiled onions over them, done thus: take the onions, peel and boil them in a great deal of water, shift your water, then let them boil about two hours; take them up, and throw them in the cullender to drain; then with a knife chop them on a board; put them in a saucepan, shake a little flour over them, put in a little milk or cream, with a piece of butter; set them
 over the fire, and when the butter is melted they are enough. But if you want sauce in half an hour, take onions, peel and cut them in thin slices; put them in milk and water, and when the water boils they will be done in twenty minutes; then throw them in a cullender to drain, chop them and put them in a saucepan; shake in a little flour, with a little cream, and a bit of butter; stir all together over the fire till the butter is melted, and they will be very fine. This sauce is very good with roast mutton, and it is the best way of boiling onions.
 TO ROAST VENISON.
 Take a haunch of venison and spit it; well butter four sheets of paper, put two on the haunch; then make a paste with flour, butter, and water; roll it out hall as big as the haunch, and put it over the fat part; then put the other two sheets of paper on, and tie them with pack thread; lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well all the time of roasting. If a large haunch of twenty-four pounds, it will take three hours and a half, except it is a very large fire; then three
 hours will do: smaller in proportion.
 TO DRESS A HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
 Hang it up a fortnight, and dress it as directed for a haunch of venison.
 Different sorts of Sauce for Venison.
 Take either of these sauces for venison: currant jelly warmed; or half a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes; or half a pint of vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered to syrup.
 TO ROAST MUTTON VENISON-FASHION.
 Take a hind quarter of fat mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch; lay it in a pan with the backside of it down; pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie twenty-four hours: spit it, and baste it with the same liquor and butter all the time it is roasting at a quick fire, and an hour and a half will do it. Have a good gravy in a cup, and sweet sauce in another. A good fat neck of mutton eats finely done thus.
 To keep Venison or Hare sweet, or to make them fresh when they stink.
 If venison be very sweet, only dry it with a cloth, and hang it where the air comes. If you would keep it any time, dry it well with clean cloths, rub it all over with beaten ginger, and hang it in an airy place, and it will keep a great while. If it stinks or is musty, take lukewarm water, and wash it clean; then fresh milk and water lukewarm, and wash it again; then dry it in clean cloths very well, and rub it all over with beaten ginger, and hang it in an airy place. When you roast it, you need only wipe it with a clean cloth, and paper it as beforementioned. Never do any thing else to venison, for all other things spoil your venison, and take away the fine flavour, and this preserves it better than any thing you can do. A hare you may manage just the same way.
 TO ROAST A TONGUE OR UDDER.
 Parboil it first, then roast it, stick eight or ten cloves about it, baste it with butter, and have gravy and sweet sauce. An udder eats very well done the same way.
 TO ROAST RABBITS.
 Baste them with good butter, and drudge them with a little flour. Half an hour will do them at a very quick clear fire: and if they are small, twenty minutes will do them. Take the
 liver, with a little bunch of parsley, and boil them, and then chop them very fine together. Melt some butter, and put half the liver and parsley into the butter; pour it in the dish, and garnish the dish with the other half. Let your rabbits be done of a fine light brown.
 TO ROAST A RABBIT HARE-FASHION.
 Lard a rabbit with bacon; roast it as you do a hare, and it eats very well; but you must make gravy sauce; but if you do not lard it, white sauce.
 Turkeys, Pheasants, &c. may be larded.
 You may lard a turkey or pheasant, or any thing, just as you like it.
 TO ROAST A FOWL PHEASANT-FASHION.
 If you should have but one pheasant, and want two in a dish, take a full-grown fowl, keep the head on, and truss it just as you do a pheasant; lard it with bacon, but do not lard the pheasant, and nobody will know it.
 Rules to be observed in Roasting.
 In the first place take care the spit be very clean, and be sure to clean it with nothing but sand and water. Wash it clean, and wipe it with a dry cloth; for oil, brick-dust, &c. will spoil your meat.
 BEEF.
 To roast a piece of beef of ten pounds, will take an hour and a half, at a good fire. Twenty pounds weight will take three hours, if it be a thick piece; but if a thin piece of twenty pounds weight, two hours and a half will do it; and so on according to the weight of your meat, more or less. Observe, in frosty weather your beef will take half an hour longer.
 MUTTON.
 A leg of mutton of six pounds will take an hour at a quick fire; if frosty weather, an hour and a quarter: nine pounds an hour and a half: a leg of twelve pounds will take two
 hours; if frosty, two hours and a half. A large saddle of mutton three hours, because of papering it; a small saddle will take an hour and a half; and so on, according to the size: a breast half an hour, at a quick fire; a neck, if large, an hour, if very small better than half an hour: a shoulder much the same time as a leg.
 PORK
 Pork must be well done. To every pound allow a quarter of an hour: for example, a joint of twelve pounds weight, three hours, and so on. If it be a thin piece of that weight, two
 hours will roast it.
 Directions concerning Beef, Mutton and Pork.
 These three you may baste with fine nice dripping. Be sure your fire be very good and brisk, but do not lay your meat too near, for fear of burning or scorching
 VEAL.
 Veal takes much the same time roasting as pork; but be sure to paper the fat of a loin or fillet, and baste your veal with good butter.
 HOUSE-LAMB.
 If a large fore-quarter, an hour and a half: if a small one, an hour. The outside must be papered, basted with good butter, and you must have a very quick fire. If a leg, three quarters of an hour; a neck, a breast, or shoulder, three quarters of an hour; if very small, half an hour will do.
 A PIG.
 If just killed, an hour; if killed the day before, an hour and a quarter. If a very large one an hour and a half. But the best way to judge is when the eyes drop out, and the skin is grown very hard; then rub it with a coarse cloth, with a good piece of butter rolled in it, till the crackling is crisp, and of a light brown
 A HARE.
 You must have a quick fire. If it be a small hare, put three pints of milk and half a pound of fresh butter in the dripping-pan, which must be very clean: if a large one, two quarts of milk, and half a pound of fresh butter. You must baste it well with this all the time it is roasting; and when the hare has soaked up all the butter and milk it will be enough
 A TURKEY AND GOOSE.
 A middling turkey will take an hour; a very large one, an hour and a quarter; a small one, three quarters of an hour. You must paper the breast till it is near done enough; take the paper off and froth it up. Your fire must be good.
 FOWLS AND DUCKS.
 A large fowl, three quarters of an hour; a middling one, half an hour; very small chickens, twenty minutes. Your fire must be quick and clear when you lay them down.
 WILD DUCKS, TEEL, &c.
 Twenty minutes. If you love them well done twenty-five minutes.
 PIDGEONS AND LARKS.
 Twenty minutes.
 Directions concerning Poultry.
 If your fire is not very quick and clear when you lay your poultry down to roast, it will not eat near so sweet, or look so beautiful to the eye.
 To keep Meat hot.
 The best way to keep meat hot, if done before company is ready, is to set the dish over a pan of boiling water; cover the dish with a deep cover so as not to touch the meal, and throw a cloth over all. Thus you may keep meat hot a long time, and it is better than over-roasting and spoiling it. The steam of the water keeps it hot, and does not draw the gravy out; whereas if you set a dish of meat any time over a chafing-dish of coals, it will dry up all the gravy, and spoil the meat.
 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
 The carving-knife should be light, yet of a sufficient size, and the edge very keen. In using it, no great personal strength is requisite, as constant practice will render it an easy task to carve the most difficult articles, more depending on address than force; but, in order to prevent trouble, the joints of mutton, veal, lamb, &c. should be divided by the butcher, when they may be easily cut through, and fine slices of meat taken off from between every two bones.
 The more fleshy joints are to be cut in smooth slices, neatly done; and in joints of beef and mutton, the knife should always be passed down the bone by those who wish to carve with propriety, and great attention should be paid to help every person to a portion of the best parts. Fish should be carefully helped because if the flakes are broken, the beauty of it is entirely lost, for which reason a proper fish slice should be used, and observe to send a part of the roe, liver, &c. to each individual. The heads of cod, salmon, carp, the fins of turbot, and sounds of cod, are esteemed as delicacies, and, of course some should be sent to each person in company, which denotes an attentive degree of politeness towards your guests. In carving ducks, geese, turkeys, or wild fowl, you should cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making wings, by which you will gain more prime pieces; but you need only do this when your party is large
 A COD’S HEAD.
 Fish is easily carved. The dish now under consideration, in its proper season, is esteemed a delicacy; when served up, it should be cut with a fish-slice, and it should be remembered that the parts about the back-bone and the shoulders are generally accounted the best. Cut a piece quite off down to the bone, observing with each piece to help a part of the sound. There are several delicate parts about the head; the jelly part lies about the jaw bone, and is by some esteemed very fine, and the firm parts will be found within the head.
 ROUND OF BEEF.
 This valuable and excellent dish must be cut in thin slices, and very smooth with a sharp knife, observing to help every person to a portion of the fat, also cut in thin smooth slices, as nothing has a worse appearance than fat when hacked. Observe, also, that a thick slice should be cut off the meat, before you begin to help your friends, as the boiling water renders the outside vapid, and of course unfit for your guests.
 EDGE-BONE OF BEEF.
 Take off a slice three quarter of an inch thick, all the length, and then help your guests; the soft marrow-like fat is situated at the back of the bone below, the solid fat will be duly portioned from its situation with each slice you cut. The skewer with which the meat is held together while boiling, should be removed before the meat is brought to table, as nothing can be more unpleasant than to meet with a skewer when carving; but as some articles require one to be left in, a silver skewer should be invariably employed for that purpose
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
 You may begin carving a sirloin of beef either at the end, or by cutting into the middle; cut your slices close down to the bone, and let them be thin, observing to give some of the soft fat with each slice. Many persons prefer the outside; it is therefore a point of politeness to enquire which they will take.
 FILLET OF VEAL.
 The bone of this piece being taken out, renders the helping of it very easy. Many persons prefer the outside,—ask this; and if so, help them to it, otherwise cut it off, and then continue to take off thin smooth slices; observing to take from the flap, into which you must cut deep, a portion of stuffing to every slice, as likewise a small bit of fat. Lemon should always be served with this joint.
 BREAST OF VEAL
 Is composed of two parts, the ribs and brisket, the latter is thickest, and is composed of gristles, the division of which you may easily discern, at which part you must enter your knife, and cut through it, which will separate the two
 carts, then proceed to help your guests to what ever part they chance to prefer.
 CALF’S HEAD.
 Cut out slices, observing to pass your knife close into the bone; at the thick part of the neck, is situated the throat, sweet-bread, which you should carve a slice off with the other part, that your guests may have a portion of each. If the eye is preferred, which is frequently the case, take it out, cut it in two, and send one half to the person who prefers it, and on removing the jaw-bone, some lean will be
 found, if required. The palate, generally esteemed a peculiar delicacy, is situated under the head: this should be divided into small portions, and a part helped to each person.
 SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
 Cut into the bone; the prime part of the fat lies in the outer edge, and must be thinly and smoothly sliced when your company is large, and it becomes necessary to have more meat
 than can be cut as above directed, some very fine slices may be cut out on each side of the blade bone, but, observe, the blade bone cannot be cut across.
 LEG OF MUTTON.
 Wether mutton is esteemed the best, and may be known by a lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part, the slices are situated in the centre; when you carve, put your knife in there, and cut thin smooth slices, and as the outside is rarely fat enough, cut some from the side of the broad end in neat slices Some persons prefer the knuckle, the question should therefore, be always asked; on the back of the leg there are several fine slices, for which purpose turn it up, and cut the meat out lengthways. The cramp-bone is generally esteemed a delicacy; to cut it out, take hold of the shank with your left hand, and cut down to the thigh bone, then pass the knife under the cramp bone.
 A FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
 Divide the shoulder from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife under, observing not to out the meat too much off the bones. When the lamb is large, put the shoulder in another dish, and squeeze half a lemon over it, and the same over the breast and ribs, with a little pepper and salt, then divide the gristly part from the ribs, and help agreeably to the taste of your guests.
 HAUNCH OF VENISON
 Pass your knife down to the bone, which will let out the gravy, then turn the broardest end of the joint towards you, and put in your knife, cutting as deep as you can to the end of the haunch; let your slices be thin and smooth, the fat, which is always esteemed, to each person; you will find most fat on the left side which, with the gravy, must be properly divided among your guests:
 HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
 Consists of a leg and a part of the loin, cut so as to resemble a haunch of venison, and must be carved in the same manner.
 SADDLE OF MUTTON.
 Take your slices from the tail to the end, commencing close to the back bone; let them be long, thin, and smooth; a portion of fat to each slice must be taken from the sides.
 ROAST PIG.
 This is generally divided by the cook before it is served up. You must first divide the shoulder from the body on one side, and then the leg, the ribs are next to be separated in two or three parts, and an ear or jaw presented with them, together with a sufficiency of proper sauce. The ribs are commonly thought to be the finest part; but as this must depend on taste, the question should be asked.
 HAM.
 The best method of helping ham is to begin in the middle by cutting long slices through the thick fat. When made use of for pies, the meat should be cut from the under side, after taking off a thick slice.
 GOOSE.
 Separate the apron, and pour a glass of port wine into the body, and a little ready mixed mustard, then cut the whole breast in long slices, but remove them only as you help them;
 separate the leg from the body by putting the fork into the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body, and having passed the knife, turn the leg back. To take off the wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; then put in the knife, and divide the joint down. However, practice can alone render persons expert
 at this; when you have thus taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same by the other, if it be necessary, which will not be the case unless your company is large; by the wing there are two side bones, which may be taken off, as may the back and lower side bones, but the breast and the thighs, divided from the drum-sticks, afford the finest and most delicate pieces.
 HARE.
 Pass the point of the knife under the shoulder and cut all the way down to the rump on one side of the backbone, then repeat the same operation on the other side, which will divide the hare into three parts; then cut the back into four pieces, which, with the legs, is esteemed to be the most delicate part; the shoulder must be taken off in a circular line; this done, help your guests, observing to send each person some gravy and stuffing; the head should be divided into two parts, many persons being partial to it. Rabbits are generally carved in the same manner, only observing to cut the back in two pieces instead of four.
 FOWLS.
 The legs of a boiled fowl are bent inwards, and tucked in the belly; but the skewers must be removed before it is sent to table. To carve a fowl, take it on your plate, and as you separate the joints, place them on the dish; cut the wing off, observing only to divide the joint with your knife; then lift the pinion with your fork and draw the wings towards the legs which will separate the fleshy part more effectually than cutting it; to separate the leg, slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone; then, with the fork, turn the leg back, and the joint will give way; when the wings and legs are in this manner removed, take off the merry-thought, and the neck bones; the next thing is to divide the breast from the body, by cutting through the tender ribs, close to the breast, entirely down to the tail; then lay the back, upwards, put your knife into the bone halfways from the neck to the rump, and on raising
 the lower end, it will readily separate. The breast and wings are the most delicate parts; however, the best way is to consult the taste of your guests by asking which part they prefer.
 A PHEASANT.
 The skewers must be taken out before the bird is served, then fix your fork in the middle of the breast, divide it, then separate the leg from the body; then cut off the wing on the same side; do the same by the other side, and then slice the breast which you had previously divided; take off the merry-thought, by passing the knife under it towards the neck. Divide the other parts as in a fowl; but observe, the breast, wings, and merry-thought, are commonly accounted to be the most delicate parts, but the leg has the finest flavour.
 PARTRIDGE.
 The skewers must be taken out before it is sent to table, and it is then to be carved in the same manner as a fowl. The wings, breast, and merry-thought, are the primest parts.
 PIGEONS
 Should be divided right in halves, either lengthways or across, and half helped to each person.
 In respect to carving, written directions must always fail, without constant practice, as that can alone give the necessary facility[…]
 TO DRESS GREENS, ROOTS, &c.
 Always be careful that your greens be nicely picked and washed. You should lay them in a clean pan for fear of sand or dust, which is apt to hang round wooden vessels. Boil all greens in a copper saucepan by themselves, with a great deal of water. Boil no meat with them, for that discolours them. Use no iron pans, &c. for they are not proper; only copper,
 brass, or silver.
 SPINACH.
 Pick it clean, and wash it in five or six waters; put it in a saucepan that will just hold it, throw over a little salt and cover the pan close. Do not put any water in, but shake the pan often. Put your saucepan on a clear fire. As soon as
 you find the greens are shrunk and fallen to the bottom, and that the liquor which comes out boils up, they are enough. Throw them in a clean sieve to drain, and give them a little
 squeeze. Lay them in a plate, and never put any butter on it, but put it in a cup.
 CABBAGES, &c.
 Cabbage, and all sorts of young sprouts, must be boiled in a great deal of water. When the stalks are tender, or fall to the bottom, they are enough: then take them off, before they lose their colour. Always throw salt in your water before you put greens in. Young sprouts you send to table just as they are: but cabbage is best chopped, and put in a saucepan with a good piece of butter, stirring it for five or six minutes, till the butter is all melted, and then send it to table.
 CARROTS.
 Let them be scraped clean; and when they are enough, rub them in a clean cloth, then slice them into a plate, and pour some melted butter over them. If they are young spring
 carrots, half an hour will boil them; if large, an hour; but old Sandwich carrots will take two hours.
 TURNIPS.
 They eat best boiled in the pot; when enough, take them out, and put them in a pan, mash them with butter and a little salt, and send them to table; but you may do them thus: pare turnips and cut them into dice, as big as the top of one’s finger; put, them into a clean saucepan, and cover them with water. When enough, throw them in a sieve to drain, and put them in a saucepan with a good piece of butter; stir them over the fire five or six minutes, and send them to table.
 PARSNIPS.
 They should be boiled in a great deal of water; and when they are soft, (which you will know by running a fork into them,) take them up, and carefully scrape the dirt off them, and then with a knife scrape them fine, throwing away all the sticky parts, and send them up in a dish with melted butter.
 BROCOLI.
 Strip all the little branches off till you come to the top one; then with a knife peel off the hard outside skin, which is on the stalks and little branches, and throw them in water. Have a stewpan of water with salt in it; when it boils, put in the brocoli; and when the stalks are tender it is enough: then send it to table, with a piece of toasted bread, soaked in the water it is boiled in, under it, the same way as asparagus, with butter in a cup. The French eat oil and vinegar with it.
 POTATOES.
 You must boil them in as little water as you can, without burning the saucepan. Cover close, and when the skin begins to crack they are enough. Drain all the water out, and let them stand covered for a minute or two: then peal them, lay them in a plate, and pour melted butter over them. The best way to do them is, when they are peeled, to lay them on a gridiron till they are of a fine brown, and send them to table. Another way is to put them in a saucepan with some good beef dripping, cover them close, and shake the saucepan
 often, for fear of burning to the bottom. When they are of a fine brown, and crisp, take them up in a plate, then put them into another for fear of the fat, and put butter in a boat.
 CAULIFLOWERS.
 Cut the cauliflower stalks off, leave a little green on, and boil them in spring water and salt, about fifteen minutes will do them. Take them out and drain them; send them whole
 in a dish, with some melted butter in a cup.
 FRENCH BEANS.
 First string them, then cut them in two, and again across; but if you would do them nice, cut the bean in four, and then across, which is eight pieces. Lay them in water and salt; and when your pan boils, put in some salt and the beans. When they are tender, they are enough. Take care they do not lose their fine green. Lay them in a plate, and have butter in a cup.
 ARTICHOKES.
 Wring off the stalks, and put them in the water cold, with the tops downward, that all the dust and sand may boil out. When the water boils, an hour and a half will do them.
 ASPARAGUS.
 Scrape all the stalks very carefully till they look white, then cut the stalks even alike, throw them in water, and have ready a stewpan boiling. Put in some salt, and tie the asparagus in little bundles. Let the water keep boiling, and when they are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too much, you loose both colour and taste. Cut the round of a small loaf, about half an inch thick, toast it brown on both sides, dip it in the asparagus liquor, and lay it in your dish: pour a little butter over the toast, then lay the asparagus on it all round the dish, with the white tops outward. Do not pour butter over the asparagus, for that makes it greasy to the fingers, but have butter in a bason, and send it to table.
 DIRECTIONS CONCERNING GARDEN THINGS.
 Most people spoil garden things by overboiling them. All things that are green should have a little crispness; for if they are overboiled, they neither have any sweetness or beauty.
 BEANS AND BACON.
 When you dress beans and bacon, boil them separate, for the bacon will spoil the colour of the beans. Always throw some salt in the water, and some parsley nicely picked. When the beans are enough, which you will know by being tender, throw them into a cullender to drain. Take up the bacon, and skin it, throw some raspings of bread over the top; and if you have an iron, make it red hot, and hold it over to brown the top of the bacon; if you have not one, set it before the fire to brown. Lay the beans in the dish, and the bacon in the middle on the top, and send them to table, with parsley and butter in a bason.
 TO MAKE GRAVY FOR A TURKEY, OR ANY
 SORT OF FOWLS.
 Take a pound of the lean part of beef, hack it with a knife, flour it well; have ready a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter. When the butter is melted, put in the beef, fry it brown, and pour in a little boiling water, shake it round, and fill up with a tea-kettle of boiling water. Stir it all together, and put in two or three blades of mace, four or five cloves, some whole pepper, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, a crust of bread, baked brown, and a little piece of carrot. Cover close, and let it stew till it is as good as you would have it. This will make a pint of rich gravy.
 TO MAKE VEAL, MUTTON, OR BEEF GRAVY.
 Take a rasher or two of bacon or ham, lay it at the bottom of a stewpan; put your meat cut in thin slices over it; then cut onions, turnips, carrots, and celery, a little thyme, and put over the meat, with a little allspice; put a little water at the bottom, set it on the fire, which must be a gentle one, and draw it till it is brown at the bottom, which you may know by the pan’s hissing; then pour boiling water over it, and stew it gently for an hour and a half; if a small quantity, less time will do it. Season it with salt.
 TO BURN BUTTER FOR THICKENING OF SAUCE.
 Set butter on the fire, and let it boil till it is brown; then shake in some flour, and stir it all the time it is on the fire till it is thick. Put it by, and keep it for use. A little piece is what the cooks use to thicken and brown sauce; but there are few stomachs it agrees with, therefore seldom make use of it.
 TO MAKE GRAVY.
 If you live in the country, where you cannot always have gravy meat, when meat comes from the butcher’s, take a piece of beef, veal, and mutton, cut them into as small pieces as, you can, and take a large deep saucepan with a cover, lay the beef at the bottom, then the mutton, then a very little piece of bacon, a slice or two of carrot, some mace, cloves, whole pepper, black and white, a large onion cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, and then lay in the veal. Cover it close over a slow fire for six or seven minutes, shaking it now and then; then shake some flour in, and have ready some boiling water; pour it in till you cover the meat, and something more. Cover it close, and let it stew till it is rich and good: Then season it to your taste with salt, and strain it off. This will suit most things.
 TO BAKE A LEG OF BEEF.
 Do it in the same manner as before directed in making gravy for soups, &c. And when it is baked, strain it through a coarse sieve. Pick out all the sinews and fat, put them in a saucepan with a few spoonfuls of the gravy, a little red wine, a little piece of butter rolled in flour, and some mustard: shake your saucepan often; and when the sauce is hot and thick, dish it up, and send it to table. It is a pretty dish.
 TO BAKE AN OX’S HEAD.
 Do it in the same manner as a leg of beef is directed to be done in making the gravy for soups, &c. and it does full as well for the same uses. If it should be too strong for any thing you want it for, put hot water to it. Cold water will spoil it.
 PICKLED PORK.
 Be sure you put it in when the water boils. If a middling piece, an hour will boil it; if a very large piece, an hour and a half, or two hours. If you boil it too long, it will go to jelly.
 TO DRESS FISH.
 Observe always in the frying of any sort of fish, first that you dry it well in a clean cloth, then do your fish in this manner: beat up the yolks of two or three eggs, according to the quantity of fish: take a small pastry brush, and put the egg on, shake crumbs of bread and flour mixt over the fish, and fry it. Let the stewpan you fry fish in be very nice and clean, and put in as much beef dripping, or hog’s lard,
 as will almost cover the fish; and be sure it boils before you put it in. Let it fry quick, and let it be of a fine light brown, but not too dark a colour. Have your fish-slice ready, and if there is occasion turn it: when it is enough, take it up, and lay a coarse cloth on a dish, on which lay your fish, to drain all the grease from it. If you fry parsley, do it quick, and take great care to whip it out of the pan as soon as it is crisp, or it will lose its fine colour. Take great care that your dripping be very nice and clean.
 Some love fish in batter; then you must beat an egg fine, and dip your fish in just as you are going to put it in the pan; or as good a batter as any, is a little ale and flour beat up, just as you are ready for it, and dip the fish, to fry it.
 LOBSTER SAUCE.
 Take a fine hen lobster, take out all the spawn and bruise it in a morter very fine, with a little butter; take all the meat out of the claws and tail, and cut it in small square pieces; put the spawn and meat in a stewpan with a spoonful of anchovy-liquor and a spoonful of catchup, a blade of mace, a piece of a stick of horseradish, half a lemon, a gill of gravy, a little butter rolled in flour, just enough to thicken it; put in half a pound of butter nicely melted, boil it gently up for six or seven minutes; take out the horse-radish, mace, and lemon, and squeeze the juice of the lemon in the sauce; just simmer it up, and then put it in your boats.
 SHRIMP SAUCE.
 Take half a pint of shrimps, wash them very clean, put them in a stewpan with a spoonful of fish-lear, or anchovy-liquor, a pound of butter melted thick, boil it up for five minutes, and squeeze in half a lemon; toss it up, and put it in your cups or boats.
 ANCHOVY SAUCE.
 Take a pint of gravy, put in an anchovy, take a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in a little flour, and stir all together till it boils. You may add a little juice of a lemon, catchup, red wine, and walnut liquor, just as you please.
 Plain butter melted thick, with a spoonful of walnut pickle, or catchup, is a good sauce, or anchovy. In short you may put as many things as you fancy in sauce.
 TO DRESS A BRACE OF CARP.
 Take a piece of butter, and put in a stewpan, melt it, and put in a large spoonful of flour, keep it stirring till it is smooth; then put in a pint of gravy, and a pint of red port or claret, a little horse-radish scraped, eight cloves, four blades of mace, and a dozen corns of allspice, lie them in a linen rag, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a lemon, three anchovies, a little onion chopped fine; season with pepper, salt, and cayenne, to your liking; stew it for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve into the pan you intend to put the fish in. Let the carp be well cleaned and scaled, put them in with the sauce, and stew them gently for half an hour; then turn them, and stew them fifteen minutes longer; put in with your fish some truffles and morels scalded, pickled mushrooms, an artichoke-bottom, and about a dozen large oysters, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, stew it five minutes; then put the carp in a dish, and pour all the sauce over. Garnish with fried sippets, and the roe of the fish done thus: beat the roe up well with the yolks of two eggs, a little flour, a little lemon-peel chopped fine, pepper, salt, and a little anchovy-liquor; have ready a pan of beef dripping boiling, drop the roe in, to be about as big as a crown-piece, fry it of a light brown, and put it round the dish with oysters fried in batter, and scraped horse-radish.
 N.B. Stick your fried sippets in the fish.
 You may fry the carp first, if you please, but the above is the most modern way. If you are in a great hurry, while the sauce is making, you may boil the fish in spring water, half a pint of vinegar, a little horse-radish, and bay leaf; put the fish in a dish, and pour the sauce over.
 TO FRY CARP.
 First scale and gut them, wash them clean, lay them in a cloth to dry, flour and fry them of a light brown. Fry toast, three-corner-ways, and the roes; when the fish is done, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain. Let the sauce be butter and anchovies, with the juice of lemon. Lay the carp in the dish, the roes on each side, and garnish with fried toast and lemon.
 TENCH.
 Tench may be dressed the same way as carp.
 TO BOIL A COD’S HEAD.
 Set a fish-kettle on the fire, with water enough to boil it, a good handful of salt, a pint of vinegar, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a piece of horse-radish: let it boil a quarter of an hour, then put in the head, and when you are sure it is enough, lift up the fish-plate with the fish on it, set it across the kettle to drain, lay it in a dish, with the liver on one side. Garnish with lemon and horse-radish scraped; melt butter, with a little of the fish-liquor, an anchovy, oysters, or shrimps, or what you fancy.
 TO STEW COD.
 Cut cod in slices an inch thick, lay them in the bottom of a large stewpan; season with nutmeg, beaten pepper, and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, half a pint of white wine, and a quarter of a pint of water; cover close, and let it simmer softly for five or six minutes, then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, put in a few oysters and the liquor strained, and a blade or two of mac: cover close, and let it stew softly, shaking the pan often. When it is enough, take out the sweet herbs and onion, dish it up; pour the sauce over, and garnish with lemon.
 TO BAKE COD’S HEAD.
 Butter the pan you intend to bake it in, make the head very clean, lay it in the pan, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades of mace, half a large spoonful of black and white pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a quart of water, a little piece of lemon-peel, and a little piece of horse-radish. Flour the head, grate a little nutmeg over it, stick pieces of butter all over it, and throw raspings all over that. Send it to the oven; when it is enough, take it out of that dish, and lay it carefully in the dish you intend to serve it up in. Set the dish over boiling water, and cover it up to keep it hot. In the mean time be quick, pour all the liquor out of the dish it was baked in into a saucepan, set it on fire to boil three or four minutes, then strain it, and put to it a gill of red wine, two spoonfuls of catchup, a pint of shrimps, half a pint of oysters or muscles, liquor and all, but first strain it, a spoonful of mushroom pickle, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, stir it together till it is thick and boils; pour it in the dish, have ready toast cut three-corner-ways, and fried crisp. Stick pieces about the head and mouth, and lay the rest round the head. Garnish with lemon, notched horse-radish, and parsley crisped in a plate before the fire. Lay one slice of lemon on the head, and serve it up hot.
 TO BROIL CRIMP COD, SALMON, WHITING, OR HADDOCK.
 Flour it, and have a quick clear fire, set the gridiron high, broil it of a fine brown, lay it in a dish, and for sauce have good melted butter. Take a lobster, bruise the spawn in the butter, cut the meat small, put all together in melted butter, make it hot, and pour it into your dish, or into basons. Garnish with horse-rabish and lemon.
 OYSTER SAUCE IS MADE THUS.
 Take half a pint of oysters, and simmer them till they are plump, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash the oysters clean, and beard them; put them in a stewpan, and pour the liquor over, but mind you do not pour the sediment with the liquor; add a blade of mace, a quarter of a lemon, a spoonful of anchovy-liquor and a little bit of horse-radish, a little butter rolled in flour, half a pound of butter melted, boil it up gently for ten minutes; take out the horse-radish, the mace, and lemon, squeeze the juice of the lemon in the sauce, toss it up a little, then put it into your boats or basons.
 TO DRESS LITTLE FISH.
 As to all sorts of little fish, such as smelts, roach, &c. they should be fried dry, and of a fine brown, and nothing but plain butter. Garnish with lemon.
 And to boil salmon the same, only garnish with lemon and horse-rabish.
 And with all boiled fish, you should put a good deal of salt and horse-radish in the water, except mackarel, with which put salt and mint, parsley and fennel, which chop to put in the butter; some love scalded gooseberries with them. Be sure to boil your fish well; but take great care they do not break.
 TO BROIL MACKEREL.
 Clean them, split them down the back, season with pepper and salt, mint, parsley, and fennel, chopped fine, and flour them: broil of a light brown, put them on a dish and strainer. Garnish with parsley; sauce, fennel and butter
 in a boat.
 TO BOIL A TURBOT.
 Lay it in a good deal of salt and water an hour or two, and if it is not quite sweet, shift the water five or six times; first put a good deal of salt in the mouth and belly.
 In the mean time set on a fish-kettle with spring water and salt, a little vinegar, and a piece of horse-radish. When the water boils, lay the turbot on a fish-plate, put it in the kettle, let it be well boiled, but take great care it is not too much done; when enough, take off the fish-kettle, set it before the fire, then carefully lift up the fish-plate, and set it across the kettle to drain; in the mean time melt a good deal of fresh butter, and bruise in either the spawn of one or two lobsters, and the meat cut small, with a spoonful of anchovy-liquor; then
 give it a boil, and pour it in basons. I his is
 the best sauce; but you may make what you
 please. Lay the fish in the dish. Garnish
 with scraped horse-radish and lemon.
 TO BROIL SALMON.
 Cut fresh salmon in thick pieces, flour and and broil them, lay them in a dish, and have plain melted butter in a cup.
 TO BROIL MACKEREL WHOLE.
 Cut off the heads, gut and wash them clean, pull out the roe at the neck end, boil it, then bruise it with a spoon, beat up the yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg, a little lemon-peel cut fine, a little thyme, some parsley boiled and chopped fine, a little pepper and salt, a few crumbs of bread: mix all together, and fill the mackerel; flour it well, and broil it nicely. Let the sauce be plain butter, with a little catchup or walnut pickle.
 TO BROIL HERRINGS.
 Scale and gut them, cut off their heads, wash them clean, dry them in a cloth, flour and broil them; take the heads and mash them, boil them in small-beer or ale, with a little whole pepper and an onion. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, strain it; thicken it with butter and flour, and a good deal of mustard. Lay the fish in a dish, and pour the sauce into a bason; or plain melted butter and mustard.
 TO FRY HERRINGS.
 Clean them as above, fry them in butter: have ready a good many onions peeled and cut thin; fry of a light brown with the herrings: lay the herrings in a dish, and the onions round, butter and mustard in a cup. Do them with a quick fire.
 TO STEW EELS WITH BROTH.
 Clean eels, put them in a saucepan with a blade or two of mace and a crust of bread. Put just water enough to cover them close, and open their bellies, but take the guts out with the gills; dry them in a clean cloth very well: if there be any roe liver, take it out, but put it in again; flour them well, and have a clear good fire. Let the gridiron be hot and clean, lay them on, turn them two or three times for fear of sticking; then let one side be enough, and turn the other side. When that is done, lay them in a dish, and have plain butter in a cup, or anchovy and butter.
 They eat finely salted a day or two before you dress them, and hung up to dry, or boiled with egg sauce.
 TO BROIL COD-SOUNDS.
 You may first lay them in hot water a few minutes; take them out, and rub them well with salt to take off the skin and black dirt, then they will look white; put them in water, and give them a boil. Take them out, and flour them well, pepper and salt them, and broil them. When they are enough, lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter and mustard into the dish. Broil them whole.
 TO DRESS FLAT FISH.
 In dressing all sorts of flat fish, take great care in the boiling of them; be sure to have them enough, but do not let them be broke; mind to put a good deal of salt in, and horseradish in the water; let your fish be well drained, and mind to cut the fins off. When you fry them, let them be well drained in a cloth, and floured, and fry them of a light brown, either in oil or butter. If there be any water in the dish with the boiled fish, take it out with a sponge. As to fried fish, a coarse cloth is the best thing to drain it on.
 TO DRESS SALT FISH.
 Old ling, which is the best sort of salt fish, lay in water twelve hours, then lay it twelve hours on a board, and twelve hours more in water. When you boil it, put it in the water cold; if it is good, it will take fifteen minutes boiling softly. Boil parsnips tender, scrape them, and put them in a saucepan; put to them some milk, stir them till thick, then stir in a good piece of butter, and a little salt; when they are enough, lay them in a plate, the fish by itself dry, and butter and hard eggs chopped in a bason.
 As to water-cod, that need only be boiled and well skimmed.
 Scotch haddocks lay in water all night. You may boil or broil them. If you broil, you must split them in two.
 You may garnish the dishes with hard eggs and parsnips.
 TO FRY LAMPREYS.
 Bleed them and save the blood, then wash them in hot water to take off the slime, and cut them to pieces. Fry them in a little fresh butter not quite enough, pour out the fat, put in a little white wine, give the pan a shake round, season it with whole pepper, nutmeg, salt, sweet herbs, and a bay leaf; put in a few capers, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood: give the pan a shake round often, and cover them close. When they are enough, take them out, strain the sauce, then give them a boil quick, squeeze in lemon, and pour over the fish. Garnish with lemon, and dress them any way you fancy.
 TO FRY EELS.
 Make them very clean, cut them in pieces, season with pepper and salt, flour them, and fry them in butter. Let the sauce be plain butter melted, with the juice of a lemon. Be sure they be well drained from the fat before you lay them in the dish.
 TO BROIL EELS.
 Take a large eel, skin and make it clean. Open the belly, cut it in four pieces; take the tail end, strip off the flesh, beat it in a mortar, season it with a little beaten mace, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, parsley and thyme, lemon peel and an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; roll it in a piece of butter; then mix it again with the yolk of an egg, roll it up, and fill three pieces of belly with it. Cut the skin of the eel, wrap the pieees in, and sew up the skin. Broil them well, have butter and an anchovy for sauce, with the juice of lemon.
 TO ROAST A PIECE OF FRESH STURGEON.
 Get a piece of fresh sturgeon of about eight or ten pounds; let it lay in water and salt six or eight hours, with its scales on; then fasten it on the spit, and baste it well with butter for a quarter of an hour; then with a little flour, grate a nutmeg all over it, a little mace and pepper beat fine, and salt thrown over it, and a few sweet herbs dried and powdered fine, and crumbs of bread; then keep basting a little, and drudging with crumbs of bread, and with what falls from it, till it is enough. In the mean time prepare this sauce: take a pint of water, an anchovy, a little piece of lemon-peel, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, mace, cloves, whole pepper, black and white, piece of horse-radish; cover it close, let it boil a quarter of an hour, then strain it, put it in the saucepan again, pour in a pint of white wine, about a dozen oysters and the liquor, two spoonfuls of catchup, two of walnut pickle, the inside of a crab bruised fine, or lobster, shrimps, or prawns, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of mushroom-pickle, or juice of lemon. Boil all together; when the fish is enough, lay it in a dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with fried toasts and lemons.
 TO BOIL STURGEON.
 Clean sturgeon, and prepare as much liquor as will just boil it. To two quarts of water, a pint of vinegar, a stick of horse-radish, two or three bits of lemon peel, some whole pepper, and a bay leaf, add a small handful of salt. Boil the fish in this, and serve it with the following sauce: melt a pound of butter, dissolve an anchovy in it, put in a blade or two of mace, bruise the body of a crab in the butter, a tew shrimps or craw-fish, a little catchup, and lemon-juice; give it a boil, drain the fish well, and lay it in a dish. Garnish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and scraped horse-radish; pour the sauce in boats or basons. So you may fry it, ragoo it, or bake it.
 TO CRIMP COD THE DUTCH WAY.
 Take a gallon of pump water, a pound of salt, and mix well together, take cod whilst alive, and cut it in slices of one inch and a half thick, throw it in the salt and water for half an hour; then take it out and dry it well with a clean cloth, flour it and broil it; or have a stewpan with some pump water and salt boiling, put in the fish, and boil it quick for five minutes; send oyster, anchovy, shrimp, or what sauce you please. Garnish with horseradish and green parsley.
 TO CRIMP SCATE.
 Cut it in long slips cross-ways, about an inch broad, and put it in spring water and salt as above; then have spring water and salt boiling, put it in, and boil it fifteen minutes. Shrimp sauce, or what sauce you like.
 TO BOIL SOLES.
 Take three quarts of spring wafer, and a handful of salt; let it boil; then put in soles, boil them gently ten minutes; then dish them up in a clean napkin, with anchovy or shrimp sauce in boats.
 TO ROAST LOBSTERS.
 Boil lobsters, then lay them before the fire, and baste them with butter till they have a fine froth. Dish them up with plain melted butter in a cup. This is as good a way to the full as roasting them, and not half the trouble.
 TO MAKE A FINE DISH OF LOBSTERS.
 Take three lobsters, boil the largest as above, and froth it before the fire. Take the other two boiled, and butter them as in the foregoing receipt. Take the two body shells, heat them and fill them with the buttered meat. Lay the large one in the middle, the two shells on each side, and the two great claws of the middle lobster at each end; and the four pieces of chines of the two lobsters broiled, and laid on each end. This, if nicely done, makes a pretty dish.
 TO DRESS A
 Having taken out the meat, and cleansed it from the skin, put it in a pan, with half a pint of white wine, a nutmeg, pepper, and salt, over a slow fire. Throw in a few crumbs of bread, beat up the yolk of an egg with a spoonful of vinegar, throw it in, then shake the saucepan round a minute, and serve it on a plate.
 TO STEW PRAWNS, SHRIMPS, OR CRAW-FISH.
 Pick out the tail, lay them by, about two quarts; take the bodies, give them a bruise, and put them in a pint of white wine, with a blade of mace; let them stew a quarter of an hour, stir them together, and strain them; then wash out the saucepan, put to it the strained liquor and tails: grate a small nutmeg in, add a little salt, and a quarter of a pound
 of butter rolled in flour: shake it all together; cut a pretty thin toast round a, quartern loaf, toast it brown on both sides, cut in six pieces, lay it close together in the bottom of a dish, and pour the fish and sauce over it. Send it:
 to table hot. If it be craw-fish or prawns, garnish the dish with some of the biggest claws laid thick round. Water will do in the room of wine, only add a spoonful of vinegar.
 TO MAKE SCOLLOPS OF OYSTERS.
 Put oysters into scollop shells for that purpose, set them on a gridiron over a good clear fire, let them stew till you think they are enough, then have ready some crumbs of bread
 rubbed in a clean napkin, fill your shells, and set them before a good fire, and baste them well with butter. Let them be of a fine brown, keeping them turning, to be brown all over alike: but a tin oven does them best before the fire. They eat much the best done this way, though most people stew oysters first in a saucepan, with a blade of mace, thickened with a piece of butter, and fill the shells, and then cover them with crumbs, and brown them with a hot iron: but the bread has not the fine taste of the former.
 TO STEW MUSCLES.
 Wash them very clean from the sand in two or three waters, put them in a stewpan, cover them close, and let them stew till all the shells are opened; then take them out one by one, pick them out of the shells, and look under the tongue to see if there be a crab; if there is, you must throw away the muscle; some only pick out the crab, and eat the muscle. When you have picked them all clean, put them in a saucepan: to a quart of muscles put half a pint of the liquor strained through a sieve, put in a blade or two of mace, a piece of butter as big as a large walnut rolled in flour; let them stew: toast bread brown, and lay them round the dish, cut three-corner-ways; pour in the muscles, and send them to table hot.
 TO STEW SCOLLOPS.
 Boil them well in salt and water, take them out and stew them in a little of the liquor, a little white wine, a little vinegar, two or three blades of mace, two or three cloves, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and the juice of a Seville orange. Stew them well, and dish them up.
 MADE DISHES.
 TO DRESS SCOTCH COLLOPS.
 Take a piece of fillet of veal, cut it in thin pieces, as big as a crown-piece, but very thin; shake a little flour over it, then put a little butter in a frying-pan and melt it; put in the collops, and try them quick till they are brown, then lay them in a dish: have ready a good ragoo made thus: take a little butter in a stewpan, and melt it, then add a large spoonful of flour, stir it about till it is smooth, then put in a pint of good brown gravy; season it with pepper and salt, pour in a small glass of white wine, some veal sweet-breads, force-meat balls, truffles and morels, ox palates, and mushrooms; stew them gently for half an hour, add the juice of half a lemon to it, put it over the collops, and garnish with rashers of bacon. Some like the Scotch collops made thus: put the collops into the ragoo, and stew them for five minutes.
 WHITE SCOTCH COLLOPS.
 Cut the veal the same as for Scotch collops; throw them in a stewpan; put boiling water over them, and stir them about, then strain them off; take a pint of good veal broth, and thicken it; add a bundle of sweet herbs, with some mace; put sweet-bread, force-meat balls, and fresh mushrooms; if no fresh to be had, use pickled ones washed in warm water; stew them fifteen minutes; add the yolk of an egg and a half, and a pint of cream: beat them well together with some nutmeg grated, and keep stirring till it boils up; add the juice of a quarter of a lemon, then put it in a dish. Garnish with lemon.
 A FILLET OF VEAL WITH COLLOPS.
 For an alteration, take a small fillet of veal, cut what collops you want, then take the udder and fill it with force-meat, roll it round, tie it with packthread across, and roast it; lay the collops in a dish, and lay your udder in the middle. Garnish your dishes with lemon.
 FORCE-MEAT BALLS.
 You are to observe, that force-meat balls are a great addition to all made dishes; made thus: take half a pound of veal, and half a pound of suet, cut fine, and beat in a marble mortar or wooden bowl; have a few sweet herbs shred fine, dried mace beat fine, a small nutmeg grated, or half a large one, a little lemon peel cut very fine, a little pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs; mix all these well together, then roll them in little round balls, and little long balls; roll them in flour, and fry them brown. If they are for any thing of white sauce, put a little water in a saucepan, and when the water boils put them in, and let them boil for a few minutes, but never fry them for white sauce.
 TRUFFLES AND MORELS GOOD IN SAUCES AND SOUPS.
 Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, let them be well washed in warm water to get the sand and dirt out, then simmer them in two or three spoonfuls of water for a few minutes, and put them with the liquor in the sauce. They thicken both sauce and soup, and give it a fine flavour.
 TO STEW OX PALATES.
 Stew them tender; which must be done by putting them in cold water, and let them stew softly over a slow fire till they are tender, then take off the two skins, cut them in pieces and put them either in a made-dish or soup; and cock’s-combs and artichoke-bottoms, cut small, and put in the made-dish. Garnish the dishes with lemon, sweet-breads stewed, or white-dishes, and fried for brown ones, and cut in little pieces.
 TO RAGOO A LEG OF MUTTON.
 Take all the skin and fat off, cut it very thin the right way of the grain, then butter the stewpan, and shake flour in it: slice half a lemon and half an onion, cut them small, with a little bundle of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put all together with the meat in the pan, stir it a minute or two, and then put in six spoonfuls of gravy, have ready an anchovy minced small: mix it with butter and flour, stir it all together for six minutes, and then dish it up.
 A BROWN FRICASEE.
 You must take rabbits or chickens and skin them, then cut them in small pieces, and rub them over with yolks of eggs. Have ready grated bread, a little beaten mace and grated nutmeg, mixed together, and then roll them in it: put a little butter in a stewpan, and when it is melted put in the meat. Fry it of a fine brown, and take care they do not stick to the bottom of the pan; pour the butter from them, and put in half a pint of brown gravy, a glass of white wine, a few mushrooms, or two spoonfuls of the pickle, a little salt, if wanted, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When it is of a fine thickness, dish it up, and send it to table.
 A WHITE FRICASEE.
 Take two chickens, and cut them in small pieces, put them in warm water to draw out the blood, then in some good veal broth, if no veal broth, a little boiling water, and stew them gently with a bundle of sweet herbs, and salt and pepper, a blade or two of mace, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of butter rolled in a very little flour; cover it close, and let them stew till there is just enough for sauce; and then take out the onion and sweet herbs, beat up the yolks of three eggs, grate half a nutmeg, and with a spoon push the meat to one side of the pan, and the gravy to the other, and stir in the eggs; keep them stirring for fear of turning to curds, and when the sauce is fine and thick, shake all together, and then put the meat in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and have ready slices of bacon toasted, and fried oysters; throw the oysters all over, and lay the bacon round. Garnish with lemon.
 A FRICASEE OF LAMB-STONES AND SWEETBREADS.
 Have ready lamb-stones blanched, parboiled, and sliced, and flour two ar three sweetbreads; if very thick cut them in two; the yolks of six hard eggs whole; a few pastachio nut kernels, and a few large oysters: fry these all of a fine brown, then pour out all the butter, add a pint of drawn gravy, the lamb-stones, some aspargus-tops an inch long, grated nutmeg, a pepper and salt, two shalots shred small, and a glass of white wine. Stew all together for ten minutes, then add the yolks of three eggs beat fine, with a little white wine, and a little beaten mace; stir all together till it is of a fine thicknes, and then dish it up. Garnish with
 lemon.
 TO HASH A CALF’S HEAD.
 Boil the head almost enough, then take the best half, and with a sharp knife take it nicely from the bone, with the two eyes. Lay in a little deep dish before a good fire, and take care no ashes fall into it, and then hack it with a knife cross and cross: grate nntmeg all over, the yolks of two eggs, a little pepper and salt, a few sweet herbs, crumbs of bread, and lemonpeel chopped very fine, baste it with a little butter, then baste it again; keep the dish turning, that it may be all brown alike: cut the other half and tongue in little thin bits, and set on a pint of drawn gravy in a saucepan, a little bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, pepper and salt, a glass of white wine, and two shallots; boil all these together a few minutes, strain it through a sieve, and put it in a clean stewpan with the hash. Flour the meat before you put it in, and add a few mushrooms, a spoonful of the pickle, two spoonfuls of catchup, and a few truffles and morels; stir all together for a few minutes, then beat up half the brains, and stir in the stewpan, and a little bit of butter rolled in flour. Take the other half of the brains, and beat them up with a little lemon peel cut fine, a little nutmeg grated, beaten mace, thyme shred small, parsley, the yolk of an egg, and have some good dripping boiling in a stewpan: then fry the brains in little cakes, about as big as a crown-piece. Fry twenty oysters, dipped in the yolk of an egg, toast some slices of bacon, fry a few forcemeat balls, and have ready a hot dish; if pewter, over a few coals; if china, over a pan of hot water. Pour in your hash, then lay in your toasted bread, throw the force-meat balls over the hash, and garnish the dish with fried oysters, the fried brains, and lemon; throw the rest over the hash, lay the bacon round the dish, and send it to table.
 TO BAKE A CALF’S OR SHEEP’S HEAD.
 Take the head, pick it, and wash it clean; take an earthen dish large enough to lay the head in, rub a little piece of butt over the dish, then lay some long iron skewers across the top of the dish, and put the head on; skewer up the meat in the middle that it do not lie on the dish, then grate nutmeg all over it, a few sweet herbs shred small, crumbs of bread, a little lemon peel cut fine, and then flour it all over: stick pieces of butter in the eyes, and all over the head, and flour it again. Let it be well baked, and of a fine brown; you may throw pepper and salt over it, and put in the dish a piece of beef cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, some whole pepper, a blade of mace, two cloves, a pint of water, and boil the brains with sage. When the head is enough, lay it in a dish, and set it to the fire to keep warm, then stir all together in the dish, and boil it in a saucepan; strain it off, put it in the saucepan again, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage in the brains chopped fine, a spoonful of catchup, and two spoonfuls of red wine; boil them together, take the brains, beat them well, and mix them with the sauce; pour it in the dish, and send it to table. You must bake the tongue with the head, and do not cut it out. It will lie the handsomer
 in the dish.
 TO DRESS A LAMB’S HEAD.
 Boil the head and pluck tender, but do not let the liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it cross and cross, grate some nutmeg over it, and lay it in a dish before good fire; then grate some crumbs of bread, sweet herbs rubbed, a little lemon peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and salt, and baste it with a little butter; then throw flour over it, and just as it is done do the same, baste it and drudge it. Take half the liver, the lights, the heart, and tongue, chop them very small, with six or eight spoonfuls of gravy or water; first shake some flour over the meat, and stir it together, then put in the gravy or water, a piece of butter rolled in a little flour, a little pepper and salt, and what runs from the head in the dish: simmer all together a few minutes, and add half a spoonful of vinegar, pour it in a dish, lay the head in the middle of the mince meat, have ready the other half of the liver cut thin, with slices of bacon broiled, and lay round the head. Garnish the dish with lemon, and send it to table.
 TO RAGOO A NECK OF VEAL.
 Cut a neck of veal in steaks, flatten them with a rolling-pin, season with salt, pepper, cloves, and mace, lard them with bacon, lemon peel, and thyme, dip them in the yolks of eggs; make a sheet of strong cap-paper up at the four corners in the form of a dripping-pan; pin up the corners, butter the paper, and also the gridiron, set it over a charcoal fire; put in the meat; let it do leisurely, keep it basting and turning to keep in the gravy; and when it is enough, have ready half a pint of strong gravy, season it high, put in mushrooms and pickles, force-meat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, oysters stewed and fried, to lay round and at the top of the dish, serve it up. If for a brown ragoo, put in red wine; if white, white wine, with the yolks of eggs beat up with two or three spoonfuls of cream.
 TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB.
 Let the leg be boiled very white. An hour will do it. Cut a loin in steaks, dip them in a few crumbs of bread and egg, fry them nice and brown; boil a good deal of spinach, and lay in the dish; put the leg in the middle, lay the loin round it; cut an orange in four, and garnish the dish, and have butter in a cup. Some love the spinach boiled, then drained, put in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and stewed.
 TO STEW A TURKEY OR FOWL.
 Let a pot be very clean, lay four skewers at the bottom, and a turkey or fowl on them, put in a quart of gravy; take a bunch ef celery, cut it small and wash it clean, put it in the pot, with two or three blades of mace, let it stew softly till there is just enough for sauce, then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of red wine, two of catchup, and just as much pepper and salt as will season it; lay the fowl or turkey in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table.
 If the fowl or turkey is done enough before the sauce, take it up, till the sauce is boiled enough, then put it in, let it boil a minute or two, and dish it up.
 TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
 Be sure let the pot or saucepan be clean, lay at the bottom four wooden skewers, wash and clean the knuckle very well, lay it in the pot with two or three blades of mace, a little whole pper, a little piece of thyme, a small onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts of water. Cover close, make it boil, then only let it simmer for two hours, and when it is enough take it up, lay it in a dish, and strain the broth over it.
 TO FORCE A SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
 When it is quite roasted, take it up, and lay it in the dish with the inside uppermost, with a sharp knife lift up the skin, hack and cut the inside very fine, shake pepper and salt over it, with two shalots, cover it with the skin, and send it to table. You may add red wine or vinegar, as you like.
 BEEF A-LA-MODE.
 Take a small buttock of beef, or leg of mutton-piece, or a piece of buttock of beef; also a dozen of cloves, eight blades of mace, and some allspice beat fine; chop a large handful of parsley, and all sorts of herbs fine; cut bacon as for beef a-la-daub, and put them in the spice and herbs, with some pepper and salt, and thrust a large pin through the beef; put it in a pot, and cover it with water; chop four large onions, and four blades of garlic very fine, six bay leaves, and a handful of champignons; put all in the pot with a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of red wine; cover the pot close, and stew it for six hours, according to the size of the piece; if a large piece, eight hours; then take it out, put it in a dish, cover it close, and keep it hot; take the gravy, and skim all the fat off, strain it through a sieve, pick out the champignons, and put them in the gravy; season with cayenne pepper and salt, and boil it fifteen minutes; then put the beef in a soup dish, and the gravy over it, or cut it in thin slices, and pour the liquor over it; or put it in a deep dish, with all the gravy in another: when cold, cut it in slices, and put some of the gravy round it, which will be of a strong jelly.
 BEEF COLLOPS.
 Take rump steaks, or any tender piece cut like Scotch collops, only larger, hack them a little with a knife, and flour them; put butter in a stewpan, and melt it, then put in the collops, and fry them quick for two minutes: put in a pint of gravy, a little butter rolled in flour, season with pepper and salt: cut four pickled cucumbers in thin slices, half a walnut, and a few capers, a little onion shred fine; stew them five minutes, then put them in a hot dish, and send them to table. You may put half a glass of white wine into it.
 TO STEW BEEF STEAKS.
 Take rump steaks, pepper and salt them, lay them in a stewpan, pour in half a pint of water, a blade or two of mace, two or three cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, an anchovy, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion; cover close, and let them stew softly till they are tender; then take out the steaks, flour them, fry them in fresh butter, and pour away all the fat, strain the sauce they were stewed in, and pour in the pan; toss it all up together till the sauce is hot and thick. If you add a quarter of a pint of oysters, it will make it the better. Lay the steaks in the dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with any pickle you like.
 TO FRY BEEF STEAKS.
 Pepper and salt rump steaks, fry them in a little butter very quick and brown; take them out, and put them into a dish, pour the fat out of the frying-pan, and then take half a pint of hot gravy; if no gravy, half a pint of hot water, and put in the pan, a little butter rolled in flour, pepper and salt, and two or three shalots chopped fine; boil them in the pan for two minutes, then put it over the steaks, and send them to table.
 TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.
 Having boiled it till it is little more than half enough, take it up, and peel off the skin: take salt, pepper, beaten mace, grated nutmeg, a handful of parsley, a little thyme, winter-savory sweet-marjoram, all chopped fine and mixed, and stuff them in great holes in the fat and lean, the rest spread over it, with the yolks of two eggs; save the gravy that runs out, put to it a pint of claret, and put the meat in a deep pan, pour the liquor in, cover close, and bake it two hours, put it in the dish, pour the liquor over it, and send it to table.
 TO FRICASEE NEAT’S TONGUES BROWN.
 Take neat’s tongues, boil them tender, peel and cut them in thin slices, and fry them in fresh butter; then pour out the butter, put in as much gravy as you want for sauce, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, pepper and salt, and a blade or two of mace, a glass of white wine, simmer all together half an hour; take out the tongue, and strain the gravy, put it with the tongue in the stewpan again, beat up the yolks of two eggs, a little grated nutmeg, a piece of butter as big as a walnut rolled in flour, shake all together for four or five minutes, dish it up, and send it to table.
 TO STEW NEAT’S TONGUES WHOLE.
 Take two tongues, let them stew in water just to cover them for two hours, then peel them, put them in again with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muslin rag, a spoonful of capers chopped, turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; let all stew together softly over a slow fire for two hours, then take out the spice and sweet herbs, and send it to table. You may leave out the turnips and carrots, or boil them by themselves, and lay them in a dish, just as you like.