ROASTING 
 Observations on Roasting. 
 When you roast any kind of meat, it is a very good way to put a little salt and water in your dripping pan, baste your meat a little with it, let it dry, then dust it well with flour, keep it a good instance from the fire, if the meat is scorched the outside is hard, and prevents the heat from penetrating into the meat, and will appear enough before it be little more than half done. Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire, is the best method I can prescribe for roasting meat to perfection; when the steams draws near the fire, it is a sign of it being enough; but you will be the best judge of that, from the time you put it down. Be careful, when you roast any kind of wild fowl, to keep a clear brisk fire, roast them a light brown, but not too much; it is a great fault to roast them till the gravy runs out of them, it takes off the fine flavour.– Tame fowls require more roasting, they are a long time before they are hot through, and must be often basted to keep up a strong froth, it makes them rise better, and a finer colour.– Pigs and geese should be roasted before a good fire, and turned quick.– Hares and rabbits require time and care, to see the ends are roasted enough; when they are half roasted, cut the neck skin, and let out the blood, for when they are cut up they often appear bloody at the neck. 
 To roast a Pig. 
 Spit your pig and lay it to the fire, which must be brisker at the ends than in the middle, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay your pig down, take a little sage shred small, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and a little pepper and salt, and a crust of bread, put them into the pig, and sew it up with coarse thread; then flour it all over very well, and keep flouring it till the eyes drop out, or you find the crackling hard. Be sure to save all the gravy that comes out of it, which you must do by setting basins or pans under the pig in the dripping-pan, as soon as you find the gravy begins to run. If just killed, let it roast an hour; if killed the day before, an hour and a quarter; if a very large one, an hour and a half. But the best way to judge, is when the eyes drop out, and the skin is grown very hard. When it is enough, stir the fire up brisk; take a coarse cloth, with a good lump of butter in it, and rub the pig all over till the crackling is quite crisp, and then take it up. Lay it in your dish, and with a sharp knife cut off the head, and then cut the pig in two, before you draw out the spit. Cut the ears off the head and lay at each end, and cut the under jaw in two and lay on each side: melt some good butter, take the gravy you saved and put it into it, boil it, and pour it into the dish with the brains bruised fine, and the sage mixed all together, and then send it to table. Garnish with currants. 
 To roast Venison. 
 Take a haunch of venison and spit it; take four sheets of paper well buttered, put two on the haunch, then make a paste with some flour, a little butter and water; roll it out half as big as your haunch, and put it over the fat part, then put the other two sheets of paper on, and tie them with some packthread; lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well all the time of roasting: if a large haunch of  twenty-four pounds, it will take three  hours and a half, except it is a very large fire, then three hours will do; smaller in proportion. When it is near done, take off the paper and paste, dust it well with flour, and baste it with butter; when it is a light brown, dish it up with brown gravy. 
 To dress a haunch of mutton. 
 Hang it up for a fortnight, and dress it as directed for a haunch of venison. 
 To dress Mutton venison-fashion. 
 Take the largest and fattest leg of mutton you can get, cut out like a haunch of venison, as  soon as it is killed, ,while it is warm, it will eat the tenderer; take out the bloody vein, pour over it a bottle of red wine, turn it in the wine four or five times a day, for five days; then dry it exceedingly well ,with a clean cloth, hang it up in the air, with the thick end uppermost, for five clays; dry it night and morning to keep it from growing musty.  When you roast it, cover it with paper and paste as you do venison. Serve it up with venison sauce.  It will take four hours roasting. A fine fat neck may be done the same way. 
 To roast Geese, Turkeys &c. 
 When you roast a goose, turkey, or fowls of any sort, take care to singe them with a piece of white paper, and baste them with butter, dredge them with a little flour, and sprinkle a little salt on; and when the smoke begins to draw to the fire and they look plump, baste them again, and dredge them with a little flour, and take them up. 
 As to geese and ducks, you should have sage and onion shred fine, with pepper and salt put into the belly, with gravy in the dish; or some like sage and onion and gravy mixed together. Put only pepper and salt into wild ducks, easterlings, wigeon, teal, and all other sorts of wild fowl. A middling turkey will take an hour to roast; a very large one, an hour and a quarter; a small one, three quarters of an hour; they should be stuffed with forced-meat. You must paper the breast till it is near done enough, then take the paper off and froth it up. Your fire must be very good.  The same time does for a goose. 
 To roast Partridges and Pheasants. 
 Let them be nicely roasted, but not too much; baste them gently, with a little butter, and dredge with flour, sprinkle a little salt on, and froth them nicely up; have good gravy in the dish, with bread-sauce in a boat. 
 To roast a Fowl pheasant-fashion. 
 If you should have but one pheasant, and want two in a dish, take a large full-grown fowl, keep the head on, and truss it just as you do a pheasant; lard it with bacon, but do not lard the pheasant, and nobody will know it. 
 To roast Pigeons. 
 Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a nutmeg, a little pepper and salt; baste them with butter, and when they are enough, lay them in the dish, and they will swim with gravy. You may put them on a little spit, and then tie both ends close.  Twenty minutes will roast them. 
 To roast Woodcocks and Snipes 
 Put them on a little bird-spit, and tie them on another, and put them down to roast; take a round of a threepenny loaf, and toast it brown, and butter it;  then lay it in a dish under the birds; baste them with a little butter; take the trail out before you spit them, and put it into a small stew-pan, with a little gravy; simmer it gently over the fire for five or six minutes; add a little melted butter to it, put it over your toast in the dish, and when your woodcocks are roasted put them on the toast, and set it over a lamp or chafing dish for three minutes, and send them to table. 
 To roast a Hare or Rabbits. 
 Take your hare when it is cased, truss it in this manner:  bring the two hind-legs up to its sides, pull the fore-legs back, put your skewer first into the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and thrust it through the body; put the fore-leg on, and then the hind-leg, and a skewer through the top of the shoulders and      back part of the head, which will hold the head up. Make a puddling thus: take a quarter  of a pound of beef-suet, as much crumb of bread, a handful of       parsley chopped fine, some sweet herbs of all sorts, such as basil, marjoram, winter-savory, and a  little  thyme chopped very fine, a little nutmeg grated, some lemon-peel cut fine, pepper and salt, chop the liver fine, and put in with an egg, mix it up, and    put it into the belly, and sew or skewer it up; then spit it and lay it to the fire, which must be a good quick one. 
 Put three half-pints of good milk in your dripping-pan, baste your hare with it till reduced to half a gill, then dust and baste it well with butter; if it be a large one, it will take an hour and a half roasting, and require a little more milk. 
 If you have not any gravy, what the hare has been basted with will be a very good substitute, thickened with flour and butter. 
 To roast Mutton 
 If a chine or saddle of mutton, let the skin be raised, and then skewered on again; this will prevent it from scorching, and make it eat mellow; a quarter of an hour before you take it up, take off the skin, dust on some flour, baste it with butter, and sprinkle on a little salt. 
 To roast Pork 
 Pork must be well done, or it is apt to surfeit. Roast a leg of pork thus: score it; stuff the knuckle part with sage and onion, chopped fine with pepper and salt; or cut a hole under the twist, and put the sage, &c. there, and skewer it up with a skewer.  Roast it crisp, because most people like the rind crisp, which they call crackling. Make some good apple-sauce, and send it up in a boat; then have a little drawn gravy to put in the dish. This they call a mock goose. The spring or hand of pork, if very young, roasted like a pig, eats very well; or take the spring, and cut off the shank or knuckle, and sprinkle sage and onion over it, and roll it round, and tie it with a string, and roast it two hours, otherwise it is better boiled. The sparerib should be basted with a little bit of butter, a very little dust of flour, and some sage shred small: but we never make any sauce to it but apple-sauce. The best way to dress pork griskins is to roast them; baste them with a little butter and sage, and a little pepper and salt.  Few  eat anything  with these  but mustard. 
 To roast Veal  
 When you roast the loin or fillet, paper the udder of the fillet to preserve the fat, and the bark of the loin to prevent it from scorching; lay the meat at first some distance from the fire, that it may soak; baste it well with butter, then dust on a little flour. When it  has soaked  some time, draw it near the fire; and a little before you take it up,  baste it again. Most people chuse to stuff a fillet.  The breast yon must roast with the caul on, and the sweetbread skewered on the back side. When it is near enough take off the caul, and baste it with butter. 
 To roast Lamb 
 If a large fore-quarter, an hour and a half; if a small one, an hour.    The outside must be papered, basted with good butter, and you must have a very quick fire. If a leg, about three quarters of an hour; a neck, a breast, or shoulder, three quarters of an hour; if very small, half an hour will do. These last-mentioned joints are not to be papered, or have t e skin raised, but to be dressed like mutton, and garnished with cresses or small sallading. 
 To roast a Beef-hear. 
 Wash it carefully; stuff it as a hare; and serve with rich gravy, and currant-jelly sauce. Hash with the same, and port wine. 
 To roast a Pike. 
 Scale and gut your pike, and  wash it very clean, then make a stuffing in the following manner: take the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, an anchovy chopped fine, a handful of parsley,  and a little sweet herbs chopped fine; the liver or roe of the fish bruised, a little lemon-peel chopped fine, a little grated nutmeg, some pepper and salt, the yolks of two eggs; mix all together, and put  it  in the belly of your fish;  sew it up,  and then make it in  the form of an S; rub the yolk of an egg  over, grate some nutmeg  on it,  and strew some crumbs of bread on it; put some butter here and there on it;  put it on an iron plate, and bake it, or roast it before the fire in a tin-oven; for sauce, good anchovies and butter, and plain  melted  butter. Garnish with  horse-radish and barberries, or you may boil it without the stuffing. 
 CHAPTER II. 
 BOILING. 
 Observations on Boiling 
 When you boil any kind of meat, particularly veal, it requires a great deal of care and neatness; be sure your copper be very  clean and well tinned, fill it as full of soft water as is necessary, dust your veal well with fine flour, put it into your copper, set it over a large fire; some choose to put in milk: to make it white, but l think it is better without= if your water happens to be the least hard, it curdles the milk, and gives the veal a brown yellow-cast, and often hangs in lumps about the veal, so will oatmeal, but by dusting your veal, and putting it into the water when cold, it prevents the fulness of the water from hanging upon it; when the scum begins to rise, take it clear off, put on your cover, let it boil in plenty of water as slow as possible, it will make your veal rise and plump: a cook cannot be guilty of a greater error than to let any sort of meat boil fast, it hardens the outside before the inside is warm, and discolours it, especially veal; for instance, a leg of veal of twelve pounds weight, will require three hours and a half boiling, the slower it boils, the whiter and plumper it will be; when you boil mutton or beef, observe to dredge them well with flour before you put them into the kettle of cold water, keep it covered, and take off the scum; mutton or beef do not require so much boiling, nor is it so great a fault if they are a little short; but veal, pork, or lamb, are not so wholesome if they are not boiled enough; a leg of pork will require  half an  hour more boiling than a leg of veal of the same weight: when yon boil beef or mutton you may allow an hour for every four pounds weight;  it is the best way to put in your meat when the water is cold, it gets warm to the heart before the outside grows hard. 
 To boil a Calf’s Head. 
 Take a calf's head when fresh killed, split and clean it well, take care of the brains, wash it in soft  water  just aired,  then  put  it into  cold soft water, let it stand three or four hours, or all night if you have time, wrap it in a cloth and boil it in soft water, if a large head it will take near two hours; tie the brains in a cloth with a few sage leaves and a little parsley, an hour will boil them; take them out and chop the sage and parsley well, and the brains a little, put them into a sauce-pan, with a little good melted butter and a little salt, make them hot, then take up half the head, score it and do it over with the yolk of egg, season it with a little pepper and salt, strew over a few stale bread crumbs mixed with a little chopped parsley, set it before the fire till brown, baste it, but do not let it burn, then dish it up, lay the boiled and broiled both on a dish, and garnish with greens, skin the tongue and split it, lay the brains on a dish and the tongue upon them; it is common to send up greens and bacon with it. 
 To boil a Ham 
 When you boil a ham, put it into your copper when the water is pretty warm, for cold water draws the colour out; when it boils, be careful it boils very slowly. A ham of twenty pounds takes four hours and a half, larger and smaller in proportion. Keep the copper well skimmed. A green ham wants no soaking, but an old ham must be soaked sixteen hours in a huge tub of soft water. 
 To boil a Tongue. 
 A tongue, if salt, soak it in soft water all night, boil it three hours; if fresh out of the pickle, two hours and a half: and put it in when the water boils; take it out and pull it,  trim it, garnish with greens and carrots. 
 Boiled Leg of Lamb and the Loin fried round it. 
 Let the leg be boiled very little very white.    An hour will do it. Cut the loin into steaks, dip them into a few crumbs of bread and egg, fry them nice and brown, put the leg in the middle, lay the loin round it. 
 To boil a Round of Beef. 
 Take a round of beef, salt it well with common salt, let it lay ten days, turning it over and rubbing it with the brine every other day; then wash it in soft water, tie it up as round as you can, and put it into cold soft water; boil it very gently; if it weighs thirty pounds, it will take three hours and a half: if you stuff it,  do it thus; take half a pound of beef suet, s01ne green beet, parsley, pot-marjoram, thyme, and leeks; chop all these very fine, put to them a handful of stale bread crumbs, pepper and salt, mix these well together, make holes in your beef and put it in,  tie it up in a cloth. 
 To boil a Brisket of Beef. 
 Take a thick piece of the brisket, salt it well with common salt, rub it with the brine every other day, and turn it over; let it lay a fortnight or three weeks, if you think it will be too salt, steep it all night in cold water; set it on to boil in cold water, keep it close covered, and stew it gently four hours, but if it be very thick it will take more; mind to skim your pot well when it begins to boil, which must be carefully observed in all kinds of boiled meats; if you take out the bones and roll it like collared meat, it will look much handsomer, particularly to eat cold. 
 To boil a Leg of Pork. 
 Take a leg of pork that has been salted a fortnight or three weeks, about eight pounds weight, put it into cold soft water, and boil it three hours and a quarter, then take off the skin.  All salt meats require gently boiling.  It is common to send up pease-pudding with boiled pork. 
 To boil a Turkey 
 Take a turkey, cut off the legs and head, truss it as you would a fow1 for boiling; lay it in milk and water an hour or two, drain it well, put some force-meat into the craw, made or beef suet shred fine, stale bread crumbs an equal quantity, a bit of lean veal the size of an egg, beat it in a marble mortar, pick the skins out, put to it an anchovy chopped, a little beaten mace, a little nutmeg, Cayenne, salt, lemon-peel shred fine,  and a little lemon juice, mix these all together with an egg; sew up the craw, dredge it a little, pin it up in a clean cloth, boil it in soft water; put your turkey in when it boils, boil it gently, if it is a large one it will take an hour and a quarter, if a middling size, an hour; dish it up, and garnish with lemon; you may serve it up with oyster sauce, celery, or white sauce; you may dress a full grown fowl. 
 A fillet, or a breast of veal, may be dressed the same way.  
 To boil young Chickens. 
 Take    chickens, pull  and      pick     them    clean whilst warm,      let them hang one night, then drain them, cut off the heads and legs, then truss them; if your chickens be fat do not break the breast-bone; lay them in milk and water two hours, dredge them and put them into boiling water; if they are fine chickens half an hour, if small twenty minutes; dish them up, and pour the sauce over them, garnish with sliced lemon and chopped parsley. 
 To boil Ducks with Onion sauce. 
 Scald and draw your ducks, put them in warm water for a few minutes, then take them out, put them in an earthen pot, pour over them a pint of boiling milk, let them lie in it two or three hours; when you take them out dredge them well with flour, put them in a copper of cold water, put on your cover, let then1 boil slowly twenty minutes, then take them out, and smother them with onion sauce. 
 To boil Pigeons. 
 Scald your pigeons, draw them, take the craw clean out, wash them in several waters, cut off the pinions, turn the legs under the wings, dredge them and put them in soft cold water, boil them very slowly a quarter of an hour, dish them up, pour over them good melted butter lay round them a little broccoli in bunches, and send parsley and butter in a boat. 
 To boil Rabbits. 
 When you have cased your rabbits, skewer them with their heads straight up, the fore legs brought down, and their hind legs straight; boil them three quarters of an hour at least, then smother them with onion sauce, pull out the jaw­bones, stick them in their eyes, put a sprig of myrtle or barberries in their mouths, and serve them up. 
 To boil a Cod's Head and Shoulders. 
 Take out the gills and the blood clean from the bone, wash the head very clean, rub over it a little sa1t, and a glass of alegar, then lay it on your fish-plate: when your water boils, throw in a good handful of salt, with a glass of alegar, then put in your fish, and let it boil gently half an hour, if it is a large one three quarters; take it up very carefully, and strip the skin nicely off, set it before a brisk fire, dredge it all over with flour, and baste it well with butter; when the froth begins to rise, throw over it some very fine white bread crumbs; you must keep basting it all the time to make it froth well; when it is a fine white brown, dish it up, and garnish it with a lemon cut in slices, scraped horse-radish, barberries, a fat small fish fried and laid round it, or fresh oysters; cut  the roe and  liver in  slices and lay over it a little of the lobster out of the sauce in lumps, and then serve it. 
 To boil young Codlings like Salt-Fish. 
 Take young codlings, gut and dry them well with a cloth, fill their eyes full of salt, throw a little on the back-bone, and let them lie all night, then hang them up by the tail a day or two; as you have occasion for them, boil them in spring­water, and drain them well, dish them up, and pour egg-sauce on them, and send them to the table. 
 To boil Cod's Sounds. 
 Steep your sounds as you do the salt cod, and boil them in a large quantity of milk and water; when they are very tender and white, take them up and drain the water out, then pour the egg­sauce boiling hot over them, and serve them up. 
 To boil Salmon. 
 Scale your salmon, take out the blood, wash it well and lay it on a fish-plate, put your water in a fish-pan with a little salt: when it boils put in your fish; when you take it out of the fish-pan, set it over the  water to drain;  cover it  well with a  clean  cloth  slipped  in  hot  water, fry some small fish, or a few slices of salmon, and lay round it. Garnish with scraped horse-radish and fennel. 
 To boil a Turbot. 
 Wash your turbot clean (if you let it lie in the water it will make it soft) and rub it over with alegar, it will make it firmer, then lay it on your fish-plate, with the white side up, lay a cloth over it, and pin it tight under your plate, which will keep it from breaking,  boil it gently in hard water, with a good deal of salt and vinegar, and scum it well, or it will discolour the skin; when it is enough take it up and drain it, take the cloth carefully off, and slip it on your dish, lay over it fried oysters, or oyster patties; send in lobster or gravy sauce in sauce-boats. Garnish it with crisp parsley and pickles. Do not put in your fish till your water boils. 
 To boil Mackerel. 
 Gut your mackerel and dry them carefully with a clean cloth, then rub them slightly over with a little vinegar, and lay them straight on your fish-plate (for turning them round often breaks them) into your fish-pan, and boil them gently fifteen minutes, put a little salt in the water when it boils; then take them up and drain them well. 
 To boil Eels 
 Skin, gut and take the blood out of your eels, cut off their heads, dry them, and turn them round on your fish-plate, boil them in salt and water, and make parsley sauce for them. 
 To boil Partridges 
 Put them in a good deal of water, let them boil quick; fifteen minutes will be sufficient. For sauce, take a quarter of a pint of cream and a piece of fresh butter as big as a walnut, stir it one way till it is melted, and pour it into the dish. 
 To boil a Pheasant. 
 Take a fine pheasant, boil it in a good deal of water, keep your water boiling; half an hour will do a small one, and three quarters of an hour a large one. Let your sauce be celery stewed and thickened with cream, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour; take up the pheasant, and pour the sauce all over. Garnish with lemon. Observe to stew your celery so that the liquor will not be all wasted away before you put your cream in; if it wants salt, put in some to your palate. 
 To boil a Cabbage. 
 Cut off the outside leaves, and cut it in quarters, pick it well and wash it clean, boil it in a large quantity of water, with plenty of salt in it;  when it is tender, and a fine light green, lay it on a sieve to drain, but do not squeeze it, if you do, it will take off the flavour; have ready some very rich melted butter, or chop it with cold butter. Greens must be boiled the same way. 
 To boil Cauliflower. 
 Wash and clean your cauliflower, boil it in plenty of milk and water (but no salt) till it be tender; when you dish it up, lay greens under it, pour over it good melted butter, and send it up hot. 
 To boil Artichokes. 
 If they are young ones, leave about an inch of the stalks, put them in strong salt and water for an hour or two, then put them in a pan of cold water, set them over the fire, but do not cover them, it will take off their colour; when you dish them up, put rich melted butter in small cups or pots, like rabbits; put them in the dish with your artichokes, and send them up. 
 To boil Asparagus. 
 Scrape your asparagus, tie them in small bunches, boil them in a large pan of water with salt in it: before you dish them up toast some slices of white bread, and dip them in the boiling water; lay the asparagus on your toasts, pour on them very rich melted butter, and sere them up hot. 
 To boil French Beans. 
 Cut the ends of your beans off, then cut them slant ways, put them in strong salt and water as you do them, let them stand an hour, boil them in a large quantity of water with a handful of salt in it, they will be a fine green: when you dish them up, pour on them melted butter and send them up. 
 To boil Windsor Beans.    
 Boil then1 in a good quantity of salt and water, boil and chop some parsley, put it in good melted butter; serve them up with bacon in the middle, if you choose it. 
 To boil Parsnips. 
 Wash your parsnips well, boil them till they are soft, then take off the skin, beat them in a bowl with a little salt, put to them a little cream, and a lump of butter, put them in a tossing pan, and let them boil till they are like a light custard pudding, put them on a plate, and send them to the table. 
 To boil Spinage. 
 There is no herb requires more care in  the washing than spinage: you must carefully pick it leaf by leaf, take off all the stalks, and wash it in three or four waters; then put it into a cullender to drain. It does not require much water to dress it; half a pint, in a saucepan that holds two quarts, will dress as much spinage as is generally  wanted for a small family.  When your water boils, put    in your spinage, with a small handful of salt, pressing it down with a spoon as you put it into the saucepan: let it boil     quick, and, as soon as tender, put it into a sieve or cullender, and press out all the water. When  you send it to table, raise it up with a fork, that it may lay hollow in the dish. 
 CHAPTER  III. 
 FRYING. 
 To Fry Beef Steaks. 
 Take rump steaks; fry them in a little butter very quick and brown; take them out and 
 put them into a dish, pour the fat out of the frying-pan, and then take half a pint of hot gravy; if no gravy, half a pint of hot water, and put into the pan, and a little butter rolled in flour, a little pepper and salt, and two or three shalots chopped fine; boil them up in your pan for two minutes, then put it over the steaks, and send them to table. If wanted very rich, a little port wine may be put into the gravy. 
 To Fry Tripe 
 Cut your tripe into pieces about three inches long, dip them into the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread, fry them of a fine brown, and then take them out of the pan, and lay them in a dish to drain- have ready a warm dish to put them in, and send them to table with butter and mustard in a cup. 
 To fry Sausages 
 Cut them in single links, and fry them in fresh butter; then take a slice of bread and fry it a good brown in the butter you fried the sausages in, and lay it in the bottom of your dish; put the sausages on the toast in four parts. 
 To fry cold Veal or Veal Cutlets 
 Cut it in pieces about as thick as half a crown, and as long as you please, dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread, with a few sweet herbs, and shred lemon-peel in it; grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry them in fresh butter.   The butter must  be hot, just enough to fry them in: in the meantime, make a little gravy of the bone of the veal; when the meat is fried take it out with a fork, and lay it in a dish before the fire, then shake a little flour into the pan and stir it round; then put in a little gravy, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal. Garnish with lemon. 
 To fry Liver and Bacon. 
 Cut the liver in slices, and fry it first brown and nice, and then the bacon: lay the liver in the dish, and  the bacon  upon it.  Serve it up with gravy and butter. 
 To fry Mutton Collops. 
 Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung and cut, from the part next the leg, some collops very thin. Take out the sinews. Season the collops with salt, pepper, and mace; and strew over them shred parsley, thyme, and two or three shalots: fry them in butter till half done; add half a pint of gravy, a little juice of lemon, and a piece of butter rubbed in flour; and simmer the whole very gently five minutes.  They should be served immediately, or they will be hard. 
 To fry Lamb. 
 Cut your lamb into chops, rub it over on both sides with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle some bread crumbs, a little parsley, thyme, marjoram, and winter-savory chopped very fine, and a little lemon-peel chopped fine; fry it in butter of a nice light brown, send it up in a dish by itself. Garnish with a good deal of fried parsley. 
 To fry Carp or Tench. 
 First scale and gut them, wash them clean, lay them in a cloth to dry, then flour them and fry them of a fine light brown, fry some toast cut three-cornerways, and the roes; when your fish is done lay them on a coarse cloth to drain: let your sauce be butter and  anchovy, with the juice of lemon.  Lay your carp in the dish, the roes on  each side, and garnish with the fried toast and lemon. 
 Fried Herrings. 
 Serve them of  a light  brown, with  onions sliced and fried. 
 To fry Smelts. 
 Let your smelts be fresh caught, wipe them very dry with a cloth, beat up yolks of eggs and rub over them, strew crumbs of bread on; have some clear dripping boiling in a frying-pan, and fry them quick of a fine gold colour; put them on a plate to drain, and then lay them in your dish. Garnish with fried parsley, with plain butter in a cup. 
 To fry Artichoke-Bottoms. 
 Lay them in water, then have ready some butter hot in a pan, flour the bottoms and fry them; lay them in your dish and pour melted butter over them. 
 Fried Eels. 
 If small they should be curled round and fried, being first dipped into egg and crumbs of bread. 
 Soles. 
 Dip them in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs of bread; set on a frying-pan that is just large enough, and put into it a large quantity of fresh lard or dripping, boil it, and immediately slip the fish into it; do them a fine brown. 
 Soles that have been fried eat good cold with oil, vinegar, salt, and mustard. 
 CHAPTER      IV. 
 BROILING. 
 To broil Beef Steaks. 
 FIRST have  a very clear  brisk fire;  let your gridiron be very clean; then take fine rump steaks about an inch thick; put a little pepper and salt on them, lay them on the gridiron, and (if you like it) take a shalot or two, or a good onion, and cut it fine; put it into your dish. Keep turning your steaks quick till they are done, for that keeps the gravy in them.  When the steaks are enough, take them carefully off into your dish, that none of the gravy be lost; then have ready a hot dish and cover, and carry them hot to table with the cover on.  You may send a shalot in a plate, chopped fine. 
 To broil Mutton Chops. 
 Cut your chops an inch thick, when your gridiron is hot rub it with fresh suet, lay on your steak, keep turning them as quick as possible; if you do not take great care the fat that drops from the meat will smoke them; when they are enough,  put them into a hot dish, rub them well with butter, slice a shalot very thin into a spoonful of water, pour it on them with a spoonful of mushroom catchup and salt, serve them up hot, and in small quantities, fresh and fresh. 
 To broil Pork Steaks. 
 Observe the same as for mutton steaks, only pork requires more broiling; when they are enough put in a little good gravy; a little sage rubbed very fine strewed over them gives them a fine taste. 
 To broil Chickens or Pigeons. 
 Slit them down the back, and season  them with pepper and salt; lay them on a very clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the inside lie next the fire till it is above half done; then turn them, and take great care the fleshy side do not burn, and let them be of a fine brown. 
 Make what sauce you fancy.  Garnish with parsley. 
 To broil Mackerel. 
 Season them with pepper and salt, some parsley and fennel chopped very fine, and flour them; broil them of a fine light brown, put them on a dish and strainer. Garnish with parsley; let your sauce be fennel and butter in a boat. 
 They may be either split down the back, or done whole. 
 To broil Salmon. 
 Cut fresh salmon into thick pieces, flour them and broil them, lay them in your dish, and have plain melted butter in a cup; or anchovy and butter. 
 To broil Eels. 
 Take a large eel, skin it and make it clean; open the belly, cut it into four pieces; take the tail end and strip off the flesh, beat it in a mortar, season it with a little beaten mace, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little parsley and thyme, a little lemon-peel, an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, roll it in a small piece of butter: then mix it again with the yolk of an egg, roll it up again, and fill the three pieces of belly with it; cut the skin of the eel, wrap the pieces in, and sew up the skin; broil them well, have butter and an anchovy for sauce, with the juice of a lemon. Or you may turn them round, and run a skewer through them, and broil them whole. 
 To broil Haddocks, when they are in high Season. 
 Scale them, gut and wash them clean; do not rip open their bellies, but take the guts out with the gills; dry them in a clean cloth very wel1; if there be any roe or liver take it out, but put it in again; flour them well, and have a clear good fire; let your gridiron be hot and clean, lay them on, turn them quick two or three times for fear of sticking; then let one side be enough, and turn the other side: when that is done, lay them in a dish, and have plain butter in a cup, or anchovy and butter. 
 They eat finely salted a day or two before you dress them, and hung up to dry, or boiled with egg-sauce. Or you may make a stuffing the same as for the pike, and broil them. 
 CHAPTER  V. 
 STEWING. 
 To stew Eels. 
 SKIN and clean the eel, cut it to pieces, stew it in     just as much water as will cover it, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, whole pepper, a blade of mace, and a little salt; cover it close, and when it begins to simmer put in red wine to your taste and let it stew till tender, then strain it; add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, giving it a quick boil.  Garnish with lemon and horseradish. 
 To stew a Fillet of Veal. 
 Take a fillet of a cow-calf stuff it well under the udder, at the bone and quite through to the shank, put it in the oven, with a pint of water under it, till it is a fine brown, then put it in a stew-pan with three pints of gravy, stew it tender, put in a few morels, truffles, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, and one of catchup, and a little  Cayenne pepper, thicken with a lump of butter rolled in flour, dish up your veal, strain your gravy over,  lay round force-meat balls: garnish with    pickles and lemon. 
 To stew a Knuckle of Veal. 
 Boil it till there is just enough for sauce, add one spoonful of catchup, one of red wine, and one of walnut pickle, some truffles and morels, or some dried mushrooms cut small; boil all together. Take up the knuckle, lay it in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it up. 
 To stew Beef-Steaks after the French way. 
 Take some beef-steaks, broil them till they are half done, while the steaks are doing, have ready in a stew-pan some red wine, a spoonful or two of gravy, season it with salt, pepper, some shalots; then take the steaks, and cut in squares, and put in the sauce; you must put some vinegar, cover it close, and let it simmer on a slow fire half an hour. 
 To make stew of a Shank of Beef. 
 Take a shank of beef  seven or eight pound weight, break the bone well, put it into a kettle well tinned, put to it six quarts of soft water, season it with pepper and salt, skim it when it boils; stew it five or six hours, let it stand all night, then take off the fat, and put in celery, carrots,  turnips,  Cayenne,  and salt; stew it two hours more, then send it up. 
 To stew a Rump of Beef. 
 Having boiled it till it is little more than half enough, take it up, and peel off the skin: take salt, pepper, beaten mace, grated nutmeg, a handful of parsley, a little thyme, winter-savory, sweet-marjoram, all chopped fine and mixed, and stuff them in great holes in the fat and lean, the rest spread over it, with the yolks of two egg; save the gravy that runs out, a  little port wine will improve it, and put the meat in a deep pan, pour the liquor in, cover it close, and let it bake two hours, then put it into the dish, strain the liquor through a sieve, and skim off the fat very clean, then pour it over the meat, and send it to table. 
 To stew Brisket of Beef. 
 Put the part which has the hard fat into a stew­ pot with a small quantity of water: let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; then add carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few pepper-corns. Stew it extremely tender; then take out the flat bones, and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve that and the meat in a tureen; or the soup alone, and the meat on a dish, garnished witl1 some vegetables; port wine or not as you please. 
 To stew a Turkey or Fowl. 
 First let your pot be very clean, lay four clean skewers at the bottom, lay  your turkey or fowl upon them, put in a quart of gravy, take a bunch of celery, cut it small, and wash it very clean, put it into your pot, with two or three blades of mace, let it stew softly till there is just enough for sauce, then add a good piece of butter rol1ed in flour, two spoonfuls of red wine, two of catchup, and just as much pepper and salt as will season it; lay your fowl or turkey in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table. If the fowl or turkey is enough before the sauce, take it up, and keep it up till the sauce is boiled enough, then put it in, and let it boil a minute or two, and dish it up. 
 To stew Tongue. 
 Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for a week, turning it every day. Boil it tender enough to peel: when one, stew it in a moderately strong gravy; season with soy, mushroom catchup,  Cayenne,  pounded cloves,  and  salt  if necessary. 
 To stew Calf’s Feet. 
 Cut a  calf's foot into four  pieces, put  it into a sauce-pan with half a pint of soft water and a middling potatoe; scrape the outside skin clean off: slice it thin, and a middling onion peeled and sliced thin, some beaten pepper and salt,  cover it close       and let it stew very softly for about two hours after  it  boils; be  sure to let it simmer as softly as you can; eat it without any other sauce: it is an excellent dish. 
 To stew Chickens. 
 Take two chickens,  cut  them  into  quarters, wash them clean, and then put them into a sauce­pan; put to them a quarter of a pint of water, some mace, pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, an  onion,  and  a  few  raspings;  cover  them close, let them stew half an hour; then take a piece of butter about as big as an egg, rolled in flour, put it in, and cover it close for five or six minutes; shake the sauce-pan about, then take out the sweet  
 herbs and onion, and put all into a dish.  Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 To stew Ducks with green Peas. 
 Half roast your ducks, then put them into a stew-pan with a pint of good gravy, a little mint, and three or four sage leaves chopped small, cover them close and stew them half an hour, boil a pint of green peas, as for eating, and put them in after you have thickened the gravy; dish up your ducks, and put the gravy and peas over them. 
 To stew Pigeons. -An excellent Receipt. 
 Make a pudding of bread, suet, the livers of the pigeons, lemon, thyme, parsley, and sweet marjoram, moistened with an egg and a bit of butter; put in nutmeg, pepper, and salt; stuff the pigeons and sew them up, then fry them in butter till they look brown; then put them into some good gravy with an onion stuck with cloves, stew them till they are tender; when they are so take them out, and add a little red wine and catchup to your taste; thicken with butter and toss them together. 
 Partridges and Pheasants may be done in the same way. 
 To stew a Hare. 
 Cut it into pieces, and put it into a stew-pan, with a little mace, some whole pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and cover it with water; cover the stew-pan close, let it stew till the hare is tender, but not too much done: then take it up, and with a fork take out the hare into a clean pan, strain the sauce through a coarse sieve, empty all out of the pan, put in the hare again with the sauce, take a piece of butter as big as a walnut, rolled in flour, and put in likewise one spoonful of catchup and a gill of red wine; stew all together (with a few fresh mushrooms or pickled ones, if you have any) till it is thick and smooth; then dish it up and send it to table. 
 To Jug a Hare. 
 Cut it into small pieces, lard then1 here and there with small slips of bacon, season them with Cayenne pepper and salt, put them into an earthen jug, with a little mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bundle of sweet herbs; cover the jug or jar  you do it in so close that nothing can get in,  then set it in a pot of boiling water, and three hours will do it; then turn it out into the dish, and take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it to table hot. If you do not like it larded, leave it out. 
 To stew Cucumbers. 
 Take six large cucumbers, slice them; take six large onions, peel and cut them in thin slices, put them into a pan, with three spoonfuls of hot water, a quarter of a  pound of butter  rolled in flour; season with pepper and salt, and let them stew a quarter of an hour softly, shaking the pan often; when they are enough dish them up. 
 To stew Peas and Lettuce. 
 Take a quart of green peas, two large cabbage­lettuces cut small across and washed very clean, put them in a stew-pan with a little gravy, and stew them till tender; put in some butter rolled in flour, season with pepper and salt: when of a proper thickness dish them up 
 N. B. Some like them thickened with the yolks of four eggs; others like an onion chopped very fine and stewed with them, with two or three rashers of lean ham. 
 To stew Spinage and Eggs. 
 Pick and wash your spinage very clean, put it into a sauce-pan with a little salt, cover it close, shake the pan often; when it is just tender and whilst it is green, throw it into a sieve to drain; put it into your dish: in the mean time have a stew-pan of water boiling, break as many eggs into cups as you would poach, when the water boils put in the eggs, have an egg-slice ready to take them out with, lay them on the spinage, and garnish  the dish  with orange cut into quarters, with melted butter in a cup. 
 To stew Mushrooms. 
 Put your mushrooms in salt and water, wipe them with a flannel and put them again in salt and water, then throw them into a sauce-pan by themselves and let them boil up as quick as possible, then put in a little Cayenne pepper, a little mace, (if you like the flavour) let them stew in this a quarter of an hour, then add a tea-cupfu1 of cream, with a little flour and butter the size of a walnut; let them be served up as soon as done. 
 To stew Carp or Tench. 
 Put them in a stew-pan with a quart of water and one quart of red wine, a meat-spoonful of walnut catchup, and Cayenne   to  your     taste,    a large onion   stuck with cloves, and a stick of horse-radish, cover your pan close to keep in the steam, let them stew gently over a stove fire till your gravy is reduced to just enough to cover your fish in the dish; then take the fish out and put them on the dish you intend for table. Set the gravy on the fire and thicken it with flour and a large lump of butter, boil it a little and rain it over your fish. Garnish them with pickled mushrooms and scraped horse-radish, put a bunch of pickled barberries or a sprig of myrtle in their mouths, and send them to the table. 
 It is a top dish for a grand entertainment. 
 Cod, Soles, Halibut, and many other fish may be done the same way. 
 To stew Oysters and all Sorts  of Shell Fish. 
 When you have opened your oysters put their liquor into a tossing-pan with a little beaten mace, thicken it with flour and  butter, boil it three or four minutes, toast a slice of white bread and cut it into three-cornered pieces, lay them round your dish, put in a spoonful of good cream, put in your oysters and shake them round in your pan; you must not let them boil, for if they do it will make them hard and look small; serve them up in a little soup dish or plate. 
 You may stew cockles, muscles,  or  any shell fish the same way. 
 To stew Pears or Apples. 
 Pare six large winter pears, and either quarter them or do them whole: they make a pretty dish with one whole, the rest cut in quarters, and the cores taken out; lay them in a deep earthen pot, with a few cloves, a piece of lemon-peel,  a gill of red wine, and a quarter of a  pound of fine sugar; if the pears are very large, they will take half a pound of sugar, and   half a   pint of red wine; cover them close with brown paper, and bake them till they are enough. 
 Serve them hot or cold (just as you like the) and they will be very good with ater in the place of wine. 
 To stew Celery. 
 Take off the outside and the green ends of your heads of celery, boil them in water till they are very tender, put in a slice of lemon, a little beaten mace, thicken t with a good lump of butter and flour, boil it a little, add a 1ittle cream, shake it over the fire till it be of a fine thickness, but do not let it boil. 
 To stew Giblets. 
 Let them be nicely scalded and picked, cut the pinions in two; cut the head and the neck,  and legs in two, and the gizzards in four; wash them very clean, put them into a stew-pan or soup-pot, just cover them with water; let them boil up, take all the scum clean off; then put three onions, two turnips, one carrot, and a little thyme and parsley, stew them  till they are tender,  strain them through a sieve, wash the giblets clean with some warm water out  of  the  herbs,  &c.;  then take a piece of butter as big as a large walnut, put it in a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a large spoonful of flour, keep it stirring till it is smooth; then put in your broth and giblets, stew them for a quarter of an hour; season with salt: or, you may add a little wine, and just before you serve the up,  chop a handful of green parsley and put in;  give them a boil up, and serve them in a tureen or soup dish. 
 Three pair will make a handsome tureen-full. 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 FRICASSEES. 
 To fricassee Chickens. 
 SKIN them, and cut them in small pieces, wash them in warm water, and then dry them very clean with a cloth, season them with pepper and sa1t, and then put them into a stew-pan, with a little fair water, and a good piece of butter, a little lemon pickle, or half a lemon, one anchovy, a little mace and nutmeg, a bunch of lemon thyme, let them stew together till your· chickens are tender, and then lay them on  your dish, thicken your gravy with flour and butter, strain it, then beat the yolks of three eggs a little, and mix them with a large tea-cupful of rich cream, and put it in your gravy, and shake it over the fire, but do not let it boil, and pour it over your chickens. 
 Rabbits, lamb, sweetbreads,   tripe, veal, pigeons, may be done in the same way. 
 To make a fricassee of Eggs. 
 Boil your eggs pretty hard, cut them in round slices, make a rich sauce the same way as for boiled chickens, pour it over your eggs, lay sippets round them, and put a whole yo1k in the middle of your plate. -It is proper for a corner dish at supper. 
 Fricassee of cold Roast Beef. 
 Cut the beef into very thin slices, shred a handful of parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, and put all together into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter and some strong  broth: season with salt and pepper, and simmer it very gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into it the yolks of two eggs, a g1ass of port wine, and a spoonfu1of vinegar; stir it quick, rub the dish with a shalot, and turn the fricassee into it. 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 HASHES. 
 To Make a Calf's head Hash brown. 
 CLEAN your calf's head exceedingly well, and boil it a quarter of an hour; when it is cold cut the meat into thin broad slices and put it into a tossing-pan, with two quarts of gravy;     and when it  has stewed three quarters of an hour add to       it one anchovy, a little beaten mace,   and Cayenne to your taste, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon pickle,   two meat-spoonfuls of walnut catchup, half an ounce of truffles or morels, a slice or     two of lemon, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a glass of red or white wine, mix a quarter of a pound of butter with flour, and put it in;  a few minutes before the head is enough take your brains and put them into hot water,  it will make  them  skin  sooner, and  beat them fine in a bason, then add to them two eggs, one spoonfu1 of flour, a bit of lemon peel shred fine, chop small a little parsley, thyme and sage, beat them very well together, strew in a  little  pepper and salt, then drop  them  in little cakes into a panful of boiling hog's lard, and fry them  a light brown, then lay them on a  sieve  to drain:  take your hash  out of the pan with a fish slice, and lay it on your dish, anu     strain your gravy over it, and lay upon it a few mushrooms, forcemeat-balls, the  yolk of four eggs boiled hard, and the   brain cake; garnish with lemon and pickles. 
 It is proper for a top or side dish. 
 To hash a Calf’s Head White 
 Take a calf's head, and boil it as much as you would for eating; when it is cold cut it in thin slices and     put it into a stew-pan  with  a  white gravy; then put to it a little salt, shred mace, a pint of oysters, a few shred mushrooms, lemon peel, three spoonfuls of white wine, and some juice of lemon; shake all together, boil it over the stove, and thicken it up with a little butter and flour; put a few slices of crisp bacon round the dish. 
 Mock Turtle. 
 Dress the hair off a calf's head, boil it half an  hour; when boiled, cut it in pieces half an inch thick, and one inch and a half long, put it into a stew-pan, with two quarts of  veal gravy, and salt to your taste: let it stew one hour, then put in a pint of Madeira wine, half a tea-spoonful of Cayenne pepper, truffles and morels one ounce each, three or four artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in quarters; when the meat begins to look clear, and the gravy strong, put in half a lemon and thicken it with flour and butter, fry a few forcemeat halls, beat four yolks of hard boiled eggs in a mortar very fine, with a lump of butter, and make them into balls the size of pigeon's eggs; put the forcemeat balls and eggs in after you have  dished it up. 
 N. B. A lump of butter put in the water makes the artichoke bottoms boil white and sooner. 
 To hash Mutton. 
 Cut your mutton in slices, put a pint of gravy or broth into a tossing-pan, with one spoonful of mushroom catchup, and one of browning, slice in an onion, a little pepper and salt, put it over the fire, and thicken it with flour and butter; when it boils put in your mutton, keep shaking it till it is thoroughly hot, put it in a soup dish, and serve it up. 
 To hash Veal. 
 Cut your veal into thin round slices, the size of half a crown, put them into a sauce-pan, with a little gravy and lemon peel cut exceeding fine, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, put it over the fire, and thicken it with flour and butter; when it boils put in your veal, just before you dish it up put in a spoonful of cream, lay sippets round your dish, and serve it up. 
 To mince Veal. 
 Cut your veal in slices, then cut it in little square bits, but do not chop it, put it into a sauce­pan with two or three spoonfuls of gravy, a slice of lemon, a little pepper and salt, a good lump of butter rolled in flour, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a large spoonful of cream; keep shaking it over the fire till it boils, but do not let it boil above a minute, if you do it will make your veal eat hard; put sippets round your dish, and serve it up. 
 To hash Beef. 
 Cut your beef in very thin slices, take a little of your gravy that runs from it, put it into a tossing­pan, with a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, a large one of walnut catchup, the same of browning, slice a shalot in, and put it over the fire; when it boils put in your beet: shake it over the fire till it is quite hot, the gravy is not to be thickened, slice in a small pickled cucumber; garnish with scraped horse-radish or pickled onions. 
 To hash Venison. 
 Cut your venison in thin slices, put a large glass of red wine into a tossing-pan, a spoonful of mushroom catchup, the same of browning, an onion stuck with cloves, and half an anchovy chopped small: when it boils, put in your venison, let it boil three or four minutes, pour it into a soup dish, and lay round it currant jelly, or red cabbage. 
 To hash Fowls. 
 Cut up your fowl as for eating, put it in a tossing-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a tea- spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little mushroom catchup, a slice of lemon, thicken it with flour and butter; just before you dish it up put in a spoonful of good cream, lay sippets round your dish, and serve it up. 
 To hash wild or tame Ducks. 
 Cut up your duck  as for eating, put it in a tossing-pan, with a spoonful of good gravy, the same of red wine, a little of your onion sauce, or an onion sliced exceeding thin;  when it  has boiled two or three minutes,  lay the duck in your  dish, pour the gravy over it, it must not be thickened; you may add a tea-spoonful of caper liquor, or  a little browning. 
 To hash a Hare. 
 Cut your hare in small pieces, if you have any of the pudding left, rub it small, put to it a  
 large glass of red wine, the same quantity of water, half an anchovy chopped fine,  an  onion stuck with four cloves,  a quarter of a  pound of butter rol1ed in flour, shake them al together o er a slow fire, till your hare is thoroughly  hot, it is a bad custom  to  let  any  kind of hash boil longer,  (it makes the meat eat hard) send your hare to the table in a deep dish, lay sippets round it, but take out the onion, and serve it up. 
 To dress a Turtle the West India Way. 
 Take the turtle out of water the night before you dress it and lay it on its back, in the morning cut its head off, and  hang it up by its hind-fins for it to bleed till the blood is all out; then cut out the callapee (which is the belly) round,  and raise it up; cut  as much meat to it as you can; throw it into spring water with a little salt, cut the fins off and  scald  them with  the head; take off all  the scales, cut  all  the  white  meat out  and throw it into spring water and salt;  the guts and lungs must be cut out; wash the lungs very clean from the blood; then take the guts and maw and slit them open, wash them very clean, and put them on to boil in a large pot of water, and boi1  them till they are tender; then take off the inside skin, and cut them in  pieces of two or three inches long. Have ready a good veal broth made as follows: take one large or two small knuckles of veal, and put them on in three gallons of water; let it boil, skim it well, season with turnips, onions, carrots, and celery, and a good large bundle of sweet herbs; boil it till it is half wasted, then strain it off.  Take the fins and put them in a stew-pan,  cover them with veal broth, season with  an  onion  chopped fine, all  sorts of sweet  herbs chopped very fine, half an ounce of cloves and  mace,  half a  nutmeg beat very  fine, stew it very gently till tender;  then take the fin out, and put in a pint of Madeira wine, and stew it  for fifteen minutes;  beat up the whites of  six eggs, with the  juice of  two lemons; put  the liquor in  and boil it  up,  run  it  through a flannel bag, make it hot, wash  the  fins very clean and put them in.  Take a piece of butter  and put  at the bottom of a stew-pan,  put your white meat in,  and sweat it  gently  till it  is almost  tender. Take the lungs and heart and cover them with veal broth, with an onion, herbs, and spice: as for  the  fins, stew them till tender; take out the lungs, strain the liquor off,  thicken  it,  and put in a bottle of Madeira wine. Season with Cayenne pepper and salt pretty high; put in the lungs and white meat,  stew  them  up  gently  far  fifteen minutes; have some force-meat halls made out of the  white  part  instead  of  veal,  as  for  Scotch collop:  if  the turtle has any eggs, scald them; if not, take twelve hard yolks of eggs, made into egg-balls; have  your callapash,  or  deep  shell, done round the edges with paste, season it in the inside with Cayenne pepper and salt, and a little Madeira wine,  bake it half an hour,  then put  in the lungs and white meat, force-meat,  and  eggs over,  and bake it  half  an  hour;  take the bones, and three quarts of veal broth,  seasoned with an onion,  a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  two  blades  of mace,  stew it an hour,  strain it  through a sieve, thicken it with flour and butter, put in half a pint of  Madeira  wine,  stew it  half  an  hour ;  season with  Cayenne  pepper and  salt to your liking: this is the  soup.  Take the callapee,  run your knife between the  meat and shell, and fill it full of force-meat; season it all over with sweet herbs chopped fine, a shalot chopped,  Cayenne pepper and salt, and a little Madeira wine;  put a  paste round the edge, and bake it an hour and a half; take the guts and maw, put them in a stew-pan, with a little broth, a bundle of sweet herbs,  two blades of  mace beat fine;  thicken with  a  little butter rolled in flour; stew them gently for half an how, season with Cayenne  pepper and  salt, beat  up  the yolks of  two eggs in half a pint of cream, put it in,  and keep stirring it one way till it boils up; then dish them up as follows: 
 Callapee. 
 Fricassee.  Soup.  Fins. 
 Callapash. 
 The fins eat fine when cold, put by in the liquor. 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 RAGOUTS. 
 To ragoo a Fillet or Breast of Veal. 
 LARD, stuff, and half roast it, then put it in a tossing-pan, with two quarts of good gravy, cover it close and let it stew till tender, then add one spoonful  of white wine, one  of  browning, one of catchup, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle,  a little caper  liquor,  half  an ounce  of  morels, thicken with flour and butter, lay round it a few yolks of eggs, and force-meat balls,  which may be made like the stuffing for boiled Turkey. 
 To ragoo Sweetbreads. 
 Rub them over with the yolk of an egg, strew over them bread crumbs,  parsley,  thyme,  and sweet  marjoram  shred small,  and pepper and salt; make a roll of forcemeat like a sweetbread and put it in a veal caul: and roast them in a dutch oven; take some brown gravy, and put to it a little lemon pickle,  mushroom catchup, and the end of a lemon; boil he gravy, and when the sweetbreads are enough lay them in a dish, with the forcemeat in the middle, take the end of the lemon out, and pour the gravy into the dish, and serve them up.   
 To ragoo a Neck of Veal. 
 Cut a neck of veal into steaks, flatten them with a rolling-pin, season them with salt, pepper, cloves and mace, lard them with bacon, lemon peel, and thyme, dip  them in the yolks of eggs, make a sheet of strong foolscap paper up at the four corners in  the form of a dripping-pan; pin up the corners, butter the  paper and  also the gridiron, and set it over a fire of charcoal;  put in your meat, let it do leisurely, keep it basting and turning to keep in the gravy; and when it is enough have ready half a pint of strong gravy, season it high, put  in  mushrooms and pickles, force-meat  ba11s dipped in the  yolks  of  eggs, oysters stewed and fried, to lay round  and at the top of your dish, and then serve it up.  If for a brown ragoo, put in red wine.  If for a white one, put in white wine, with the yolks of eggs beat up with two or three spoonfuls of cream. 
 To ragoo Mutton that has or has not been Cooked. 
 Take all the skin and fat off, cut it very thin the right way of the grain, then butter your stew-pan, and shake soe flour into it; slice half a lemon and half an onion, cut them very small, a little bundle of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put all together with your meat into the pan, stir it a minute or two, and then put in six spoonfuls of gravy, and have ready an anchovy minced small; mix it with some butter and flour, stir it all together for six minutes, and then dish it up. 
 To ragoo a Piece of Beef. 
 Take a large piece of the flank, which has fat at the top, cut  square, or any piece  that has fat at the top, but no bones. The rump does well. Cut all nicely off  the  bone  (which  makes  fine soup;)  then  take  a  large stew-pan,  and with a good piece of butter fry it a little brown all over, flouring your meat well before you put it into the pan, then pour in as much gravy as will cover it, and  a quart of boiling water,  cover it  close, and let it be stewing gently; then put in an ounce of truffles and morels cut small, some fresh or dried mushrooms cut small,  two spoonfuls of catchup, and cover it close. Let all this stew till the  sauce is rich and thick; then have ready some artichoke bottoms cut  into four, and  a few pickled  mushrooms, give them a boil or two, and when your meat is tender, and your sauce quite rich, lay the meat  into a  dish, and pour the sauce  over  it. You may add a sweetbread cut in six pieces, and a few force-meat balls.  
 N.B. For variety, when the beef is ready, and the gravy put to it, add a large bunch of celery cut small and washed clean, two spoonfuls of catchup, and a glass of red wine.  Omit all the other ingredients.  When the meat and celery are tender, and the sauce rich and good, serve it up. -It is also very good this way: take six large cucumbers, scoop out the seeds, pare them, cut them into slices, and do them just as you do the celery. 
 To ragoo Geese or Ducks. 
 Flat the breast down with a cleaver, then press it down with your hand, skin it, dip it into scalding water; let  it  be cold, lard  it with bacon, season it  well with pepper,  salt,  and  a little beaten mace; then flour it all over, take a pound of good beef suet cut small, put  it into a deep stew-pan, let it be melted, then put in your goose; let it be brown on both sides; when it is brown, put in a quart of boiling gravy, an onion or two, a bundle of sweet herbs, a hay leaf, some whole pepper, and a few cloves; cover it close, and let it stew softly till it is tender.  About an hour will do it, if small; if a large one, an hour and a half. In the  mean  time  make  a  ragoo:  boil  some turnips almost enough, some carrots and onions quite enough; cut  your turnips and carrots  the same as for a herrico of mutton, put them into a sauce-pan  with half a pint of good beef gravy, a little pepper and salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and let this stew all together a quarter of 
 an hour.  Take the goose and drain it well; then lay it in the dish, and pour the ragoo over it. Where the onion is disliked, leave it out.  You may add  cabbage boiled and chopped small. 
 To ragoo Cucumbers. 
 Take two cucumbers and two  onions, slice them and fry them  in a little butter, then drain them in a sieve; put them into a sauce-pan, add six spoonfuls of gravy, two of white wine, a blade of mace; let  them stew five or  six minutes;  then  take a piece of butter as big as a walnut, rolled in flour, a little  salt  and  Cayenne  pepper;  shake  them together,  and  
 when it is thick,  dish them  up. 
 To ragoo Onions. 
 Take a pint of small young onions, peel them, and take four large ones, peel them, and cut them very  small;  put a quarter  of a pound of good butter into a stew-pan, when it is  melted and done making a noise, throw in your onions, and fry  them till they begin to look a little brown: then dredge in a little flour, and shake them round till they are thick; throw in a litt1e salt, a little beaten pepper, a quarter of a pint of good gravy, and a tea-spoonful of mustard; stir all together and when it is well-tasted and of a good thickness pour it into your dish, and garnish it with fried crumbs of bread.  They make a pretty little dish, and are very good.  You may stew raspings  in the room of flour, if you please. 
 To ragoo Oysters. 
 Open twenty large oysters, take them out of the liquor, save the liquor, and clip the oysters in a batter made thus: take two eggs, beat them well, a little lemon-peel grated, a little nutmeg grated,  a blade of mace pounded fine,  a little parsley  chopped  fine, beat all  together with a little flour, have ready some butter or dripping in a stew-pan; when it boils, dip in your oysters one by one into the batter, and fry them of a fine brown; then with an egg-slice take them  out, and lay them in a dish before the fire;  pour  the fat out  of the  pan, and shake a little flour over the bottom of the pan, then rub a small piece of butter (as big as a small walnut) all over with your knife whilst it is over the fire; then pour in three spoonfuls of the oyster-liquor strained, one spoonful of white wine, and a quarter of a pint of gravy; grate a little nutmeg, stir all together, throw in the oysters, give the pan a toss round, and when the sauce is of a good thickness, pour all into the dish, and garnish with raspings. 
 To ragoo Livers. 
 Take as many livers as you would have  for your dish. A turkey's liver and six folws’ livers will make a pretty dish.  Pick the galls from them, and throw them into cold water; take the six  livers,  put  them  into a sauce-pan  with  a quarter of a pint of gravy, a spoonful of  mushrooms (either pickled or fresh)  a spoonful of catchup, a small piece of butter as big as a nutmeg, rolled  in flour;  season them with pepper and salt to your palate; let them stew gently ten minutes;  in the mean while, butter one side of a piece of writing paper and wrap the turkey's liver in it, and broil it nicely, lay it in the middle, and the stewed livers round; pour the sauce all over, and garnish with lemon. 
 To ragoo Cauliflowers. 
 Take a large cauliflower, wash it very clean and  pick it in pieces, as for pickling;  make a nice brown  cullis,  and stew them  till  tender, season with pepper and salt, put them into your dish with the sauce over; boil a few sprigs of the cauliflower in water, to garnish with. 
 A Herrico of Mutton or Lamb. 
 Cut a neck or loin of mutton or lamb in nice steaks, and fry them a light brown,  have ready some good gravy made of the scrag of the mutton and some veal, with a piece of lean bacon and a few capers,  season  to  your  taste with  pepper, salt, thyme, and onions, which must be strained off, and added to the steaks, just one hour before you send them to the table; take care to do it on a slow fire, dish them up handsomely with turnips and carrot cut  in dices, with a good dca1 of gravy, thickened with u piece of butter rolled in  a very little flour; if they are not tender they will not  be good.  Send them up very hot. 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 SOUPS. 
 To make strong Broth for Soup or Gravy. 
 TAKE a shin of beef, a knuckle of veal, and a scrag of mutton, put them in five gallons of water, then let it boil up,  skim it  clean,  and season it with six large onions, four good leeks, four heads of celery, two carrots, two turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, six cloves, a dozen corns of all-spice, and some salt; skim it very  clean and let it stew gently for six hours; then strain it off, and put  it by for  use. 
 When you want very strong gravy, take a slice of bacon and lay it in a stew-pan;  take a pound of beef, cut  it  thin,  lay it  on the  bacon,  slice a good piece of carrot in, an  onion  sliced,  a good crust of bread, a few sweet herbs, a little mace, cloves,  nutmeg, whole pepper, and an anchovy; cover it and  set  it  on  a  slow fire for  five or  six minutes, and pour in a quart of the above gravy; cover  it  close, and  let  it  boil gently till half is wasted:  this will be a rich,  high brown sauce for fish, fowl, or ragoo. 
 To make Vermicelli Soup. 
 Take three quarts of the broth and one of the gravy mixed together, a quarter of a pound of vermicelli blanched   two quarts of water; put it into the soup, boil it up for ten  minutes and season with salt, if it wants any; put it in your tureen, with a crust of a French roll baked. 
 To make a common Peas Soup. 
 To one quart of split peas put  four quarts of soft water, a little lean bacon, or roast beef bones, wash one head of celery, cut it and put it in with a turnip,  boil it till reduced to two quarts,  then work  it  through  a  cullender, with  a  wooden spoon, mix a little flour  
 And water, and oil it well in the soup, and slice in another head of  celery, Cayenne  pepper,  dried  mint  and  salt  to  your taste;  cut a slice of bread in small dices, fry them a light brown,  and put them in your dish,  then pour the soup upon it. 
 The liquor in which beef, or any other meat has been boiled, may be used instead of water, which will produce a larger quantity of soup. 
 To make Green Peas Soup without Meat. 
 In shelling  your  peas  separate  the  old  ones from the young, and boil the old ones from the young, and boil the old ones soft enough to strain through a cullender, then put the liquor and what you strained through to the young peas which must be whole; and some whole pepper, mint, a large onion shred small, put  them in a large saucepan, with near a pound of butter; as they boil up shake in some flour, then put  in  a French roll, fried  in  butter to the soup; you must season it to your  taste with salt and herbs; when you have done so, add the young peas to it, which must be half boiled first; you may leave out the flour if you do not like it, and instead of it put in a little spinage and cabbage-lettuce, cut small, which must be first fried in butter, and well mixed with the broth. 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 Pare and slice five or six cucumbers, add  to these as many cos lettuces,  a  sprig or  two of mint, two or three onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and a half of young peas, and a little parsley.  Put altogether with half a pound of fresh butter, into a saucepan, stew them gently in their own liquor, half an hour; then pour two quarts of  boiling water  on  them and stew them two hours; thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and it is ready to serve up. 
 To make an excellent White Soup. 
 To four quarts of water  put  in  a  knuckle of veal, and a pound of lean bacon, with two anchovies, a few pepper-corns,  two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, three or four heads of celery in slices, stew all together  till your soup  is as strong as you choose it;  then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean earthen pot, let it stand all night, then take off the scum, and pour it clear off into a tossing-pan, put in half a pound of Jordan almonds beat fine, boil it a little, and run it through a lawn sieve, then put in a pint of cream and the yolk of an egg. This is very good without almonds. 
 Gravy Soup. 
 Puta shin of beef to six quarts of  water, and six onions, set  them  over  the  fire and  let   
 them boil gently till all the juice  be out  of  the  meat, then strain it through a sieve, add to the strained liquor  one  quart  of  strong  gravy  to make  it brown, put in pepper and salt to your taste, then put  in a little celery and beet leaves, and  boil it till they are tender. 
 To make White Onion Soup. 
 Take thirty large onions, boil them in five quarts of broth, a little mace, and  pepper; when your onions are quite soft take them up,  and  rub them through a hair sieve, and work half a pound of butter with flour in them; boil it gently for half an hour, serve it up with a coffee-cup full of cream, and a little salt; be sure yon stir it when you put  in  the  flour and  butter, for fear of it burning. 
 To make Brown Onion Soup, 
 Skin and cut round ways in slices six large Spanish onions, fry them in butter till they are a nice brown, and very tender, then take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve, to drain out  the  butter; when drained, put them in a pot, with five quarts of boiling water, boil them one hour and stir them often; then add pepper and salt to your taste, rub the crumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, put it to the soup, stir it well, to keep it from being in lumps, and boil it two hours more; ten minutes before you send it up beat the yolks of two eggs, with two spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little of the soup, pour it in by degrees, and keep stirring it all the time one way, put in a few cloves if you choose it. 
 -N. B. It is a fine soup, and will keep three or four days. 
 To Make Hare Soup. 
 Cut a large hare into pieces, and  put  it  into an  earthen  mug,  with  three  blades  of  mace, two large onions, a  little  salt,  a  red  herring, half a dozen large morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water ;  bake  it  three  hours in  a quick oven, and then strain it into a stew-pan; have ready boiled four ounces  of  French  barley, and  put  in;  just scald the liver and rub  it through a sieve with a wooden spoon; put  it into the soup, set it over the fire, and keep it stirring but it must not boil: send it up with crisp bread in it. 
 Giblet Soup. 
 Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck giblets: set them to stew, with a pound or two of gravy beef: scrag of mutton, or the bone of a knuckle of veal; an ox-tail, or some shanks of mutton; with three onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a large spoonful of salt.   Put five pints of water, and simmer till the gizzards (which must be each in four pieces) are quite tender: skim nicely, and add a quarter of a pint of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom-powder, and  an  ounce  of  butter mixed with a  dessert-spoonful  of  flour.  Let it boil a few minutes, and serve  with  the giblets. It may  be seasoned, instead of cream, with two glasses of sherry or Madeira,  a large spoonful of catchup, and some Cayenne. When in the tureen, add salt. 
 To make Soup meagre. 
 Take half a pound of butter, put it into a deep stew-pan, shake it about, and let it stand till it has done making a noise; then have ready six middling onions peeled and cut small, throw them in and shake them about; take a bunch of celery clean washed and picked, cut it in pieces half as long as your finger,  a  1arge  handful  of spinage clean  washed  and  picked,  a  good  lettuce  clean washed,  if  you  have  it,  and  cut  small,  a small bundle  of parsley  chopped  fine;  shake  all  this well together in the pan for a quarter of an hour, then shake in a little flour, stir all together,  and pour  into the  stew-pan  two  quarts  of  boiling water;  take a handful of  dry  hard  crust,  throw in a tea-spoonful  of  beaten  pepper,  three blades of mace beat fine, stir all together. and let it boil gently for half an hour; then take it off to the fire, and beat up the yolks of two eggs and stir in, and one spoonful of vinegar;  pour it into the soup dish and send it to table.  If you have any green peas, boil half a pint in the soup for change. 
 To make Rice Soup or Milk. 
 Take two quarts of water, a  pound  of rice, a little cinnamon;  cover it close, and let it simmer very gently till the rice is quite tender;  take out the  cinnamon,  then  sweeten  it  to  your  palate, grate half a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold; then beat up the yolks of  three eggs with half a pint of  white  wine,  mix  them  very  well,  then stir them  into the  rice, set  them on a slow fire, and keep stirring all the time for fear of curdling: when it is of a good thickness,  and boils,  take it up;  keep stirring it  till you put  it  into  your dish.  This is excellent with milk instead of wine; it may be eaten either hot or cold. 
 CHAPTER X. 
 SAUCES AND  GRAVIES. 
 To make Sauce for a Goose. 
 PARE, core, and slice your apples, put them in a saucepan with as much Water as will keep them from burning; set them over  a  very slow fire, keep them close covered till they are all of a pulp, then put in a lump of butter, and sugar to your taste, beat them well, and send them to the table in a sauce-boat. 
 To make Sauce for a Green Goose. 
 Take some melted butter, put in a- spoonfu1 of the  juice of sorrel, a little sugar, a few coddled gooseberries,  pour it into your sauce-boats,  and send it hot to the  table. 
 To make a white Sauce for Fowls or Chickens. 
 Take a little strong veal gravy, with a little white pepper,  mace,  and salt boiled in it;  have it clear from  any  skin  or fat;  as  much  cream, with a little flour mixed in the cream, a little lemon; boil it up gently for five minutes, then train it over your chickens or fowls, or in boats. 
 To make a pretty little Sauce. 
 Take the liver of  the fowl, bruise it with  a little of the liquor, cut a little lemon-peel  fine, melt some good butter, and mix the liver by degrees; give it a boil, and pour it into the dish. 
 Egg Sauce. 
 Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces; then put them to melted butter. 
 Bread Sauce. 
 Boil a large onion, cut into four with small black pepper-corns and milk, till the onion is quite a pap.  Pour the milk strained on grated white stale bread, and cover it.  In an hour put it into a sauce-pan with a good piece of butter mixed with a little flour; boil the whole up together, and serve it up. 
 To make Onion Sauce. 
 Boil some large onions in a good deal of water till they are very tender; put them into a cullender, and when  drained, pass them through it with a  spoon; put them into a clean sauce-pan with a good piece of butter, a little salt, and a gill of cream;  stir them over the fire till they are of a good thickness. 
 To make Celery Sauce for roasted or boiled Fowls, Turkeys, Partridges, or other Game. 
 Take a large bunch of celery, wash and pare it very clean, cut it into little thin bits,  and boil it softly in a little water till it is tender; then add a little beaten mace, some nutmeg, pepper and salt, thickened with a good piece of  butte rolled in flour; then boil it up, and pour it in the dish. 
 To make Lobster Sauce. 
 Bruise the body of a lobster into thick melted butter, and cut the flesh into it  in small  pieces, stew all together, and give it a boil; season with a little pepper, salt, and a  very small quantity of mace. 
 Oyster Sauce for a Turkey. 
 As you open your oysters, put a pint into a basin, wash them out of their liquor, and put  
 them in  another basin;  when the liquor is settled, pour it clean off into a sauce-pan,  with a little white gravy, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, thicken it with flour and a good lump of butter, boil it three or four minutes, put in a spoonful of thick cream, put in your oysters, keep shaking them over the fire till they are quite hot, but do not let  them boil, it makes them hard and look little. 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 If the shrimps are not picked at home, pour a little water over them to wash them; put them to butter melted thick and smooth, give them one boil, and add the juice of a lemon. 
 To make Anchovy Sauce. 
 Take a pint of gravy, put  in  an  anchovy, take a piece of butter rolled in a little flour, and  stir all together  till it boils;  you  may add  a  little juice of lemon,  catchup,  Red wine,  and walnut liquor, just as you please.  
 Plain butter melted thick with a spoonful of walnut pickle or catchup is good sauce, or anchovy; in short, you may put as many things as  you fancy into sauce. 
 To make different Sorts of Sauce for a Pig 
 There are several sorts of making sauce for pig. Some do not like any sage in the pig, only a crust of bread; but then you should have a little dried sage rubbed and mixed with the gravy and butter.  Some like bread sauce in a basin, made thus: take a pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil it for about five or six minutes, and then pour the water off; take out the spice, and beat up the bread with a good piece of butter, and a little milk or cream. Some like a few currants boiled in it, a glass of wine, and a little sugar; but that you must do just as you like it.  Others take half a pint of good beef gravy, and the gravy which comes out of the pig, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of catchup, and boil them all together; then take the brains of the pig and bruise them fine; put all these together, with the sage in the pig, and pour into your dish. It is a very good sauce. When you have not gravy enough comes out of your pig with the butter for sauce, take about half a pint of veal gravy and add to it;  or  stew the pettitoes, and take as much of that liquor as will do for sauce, mixed with the other. 
 N. B. Some prefer the sauce being sent in a boat, or basin. 
 To make different Sorts of Sauce for Venison. 
 You may take either of these sauces  for venison: Currant jelly warmed; or a pint  of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes or a pint of vinegar, and  a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered till it is a syrup. 
 To make Different Sorts of Sauce for a Hare. 
 Take for sauce, a pint of cream and half a pound of fresh butter; put them in a sauce-pan, and keep stirring it with a spoon till the butter is melted and the sauce is thick; then take up the hare, and pour the sauce into the dish.  Another way to make sauce for a hare is, to make good gravy, thickened with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and pour it into your dish. You may leave the butter out, if you do not like it, and have some currant-jelly warmed in a cup, or red wine and sugar boiled to a syrup, done thus: take a pint of red wine, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and set it over a slow fire to simmer for about a quarter of an hour.  You may do half the quantity, and put it into your sauce-boat or basin. 
 Sauce for Wild Fowl 
 Simmer  a  teacupful of port wine,  the same­ quantity of good meat gravy, a little shalot,  
 a little pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg,  and  a bit  of mace, for ten minutes: put in a bit of butter and flour, give it all one boil, and pour it through the birds.  In general they are  not stuffed as tame but may be done so if liked. 
 Another for the same, or for Ducks. 
 Serve a rich gravy in the dish: cut the breast into slices, but don't take them off; cut a  
 lemon, and put pepper and salt on it; then squeeze it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help. 
 To make Parsley Sauce when no Parsley leaves are to be had. 
 Tie up a little parsley seed in a  bit of clean muslin, and boil it  ten  minutes in some water. Use this water to melt the butter; and throw into it a little boiled spinage minced,  to  look like parsley. 
 To make Mock Oyster Sauce for any thing. 
 Take a quarter of a pint of water, a dessert­spoonful of essence of anchovy,  mace, pepper, salt, and the end of a lemon; boil these together, strain them and add butter, flour, and cream. 
 GRAVIES.    
 To make Gravy. 
 If you live in the country, where  you  cannot always have gravy 1neat,  when your meat comes from the butcher’s, take a piece of  beef: a  piece of veal, and a piece of mutton;  cut them into as small  pieces as  you  can, and  take a large deep sauce-pan with a cover, lay your beef at  bottom, then your mutton, then a very small piece of bacon, a slice or two of carrot, some mace, cloves, whole pepper black and white, a large onion cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, and then lay in your veal.  Cover it close over a slow fire for six or seven minutes, shaking the sauce-pan now and then: then shake some flour in, and have ready some boiling water; pour it in till you cover the meat and something more.  Cover it close, and let it stew till it is quite rich and good; then season it to your taste with salt, and strain it off.  This will do for most things. 
 A clear brown Stock for Gravy-Soup or Gravy. 
 Put a knuckle of veal, a pound of lean beef, and a pound of the lean of a gammon of bacon, all sliced, into a stew-pan, with two or three scraped carrots, two onions, two turnips, two heads of celery sliced, and two quarts of water.  Stew the meat quite tender, but do not let it brown. Then thus prepared, it will serve either for soup or brown or white gravy; if for brown gravy, put some of the following  colouring, and boil it a few minutes. 
 Colouring for Soups or Gravies. 
 Put four ounces of lump sugar. a gill of water, and  half an ounce of the finest butter, into n small tosser, and set it over a gentle fire.  Stir it with a  wooden spoon, till of a bright brown.  Then add half a pint of water; boil, skim, and when cold, bottle and cork it close.  Add to soup or gravy as much of this as will give a proper colour. 
 A Gravy without Meat. 
 Put a glass of small-beer, a glass of water, some pepper, salt, lemon peel grated, a bruised clove or two, and a spoonful of walnut-pickle, or mushroom-catchup, into  a  basin.  Slice an onion, flour and fry it in a piece of butter till it is brown. Then turn all the above into a small tosser with the onion, and simmer it covered twenty minutes. Strain it off for use, and when cold take off the fat. 
 To make strong Fish Gravy. 
 Skin two or three eels, or some flounders; gut and wash them very clean; cut them into small pieces, and put into a sauce-pan.  Cover them with water, and adda little crust of bread toasted brown, two blades of mace, some whole pepper, sweet herbs, a piece of 1emon peel, an anchovy or two, and a tea-spoonful of horse radish. Cover close, and simmer; add a bit of butter and flour, and boil with the above. 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 POTTING. 
 To Pot Beef. 
 RUB three pounds of beef with a little brown sugar, and saltpetre, let it lie twenty-four   hours, then wash it clean, and dry it well with a cloth, season it with a little-beaten mace, pepper, and salt to your taste, cut it into five or six pieces, and  put it in an earthen pot, with a little water, and lumps of sweet suet upon it, let the  pot boil in a sauce-pan of water until the meat be tender, this is much better than baking it, there is less waste; then take it  out, and  beat it in a mortar; add to it a  little more mace, pepper, and salt; oil half a pound of butter in the gravy and fat that came from your beef, and put it in as you see it requires it, and beat it exceeding fine, then put it into your pots, and press it close down, pour clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. 
 To Pot Veal. 
 Season a large slice of the fillet, with mace, pep­per, and salt, put  it into ajar with a little water, half a pound of butter or suet, tie a paper over it, let the jar boil in a sauce-pan of water until the meat be tender, then beat it well, and put  in by degrees the fat and gravy it has been stewed in, when done, cover it over with clarified butter, Rabbits, and almost any meat, may be done in the same way, whether cold or undressed. 
 To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham. 
 Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, seasoned us directed in the last article, and put layers of it with layers of ham pounded or rather shred; press each down, and cover with butter. 
 To pot Venison. 
 Take a piece of venison, fat and lean together, lay it in a dish, and stick pieces of butter all over; tie  brown  paper  over it,  and stew  it  as  above directed;  take it out of the liquor hot,  drain it and lay it in a dish;  when cold, take off all the skin, and beat it in a marble mortar, fat and lean together,  season it with mace, cloves,  nutmeg, black pepper and salt to your mind;  when  the butter is cold that it was stewed in,  take a little of it and beat in with it to moisten it; then  put it down close, and cover it with clarified  butter. You must be sure to beat it till it is like a paste. 
 To pot a Hare. 
 Take a hare that has hung four or five days, case it, and cut it in quarter;  put  it  in a  pot, season it  with  pepper,  salt,  and mace,  and  a pound of butter over it,  and stew it four hours; when it comes out, pick it from the  bones, and pound it in a mortar with the butter that comes of your gravy, and  a little beaten  cloves  and mace, till it is fine and smooth, then put it close down in  potting pots, and  put  clarified  butter over it. 
 To pot Cheshire Cheese. 
 Take three pounds of Cheshire cheese, and put it into a mortar with half a pound of the best fresh butter you can get, pound them together, and in the beating add a gill  of  white wine,  and half an  ounce of mace finely beat, then sifted  like a fine powder; when all is extremely well mixed, press it hard down into a pot, cover it with clarified butter, and keep it cool.  A slice of this excels all the cream cheese that can be made. 
 To pot all kinds of small Birds. 
 Pick and gut your birds, dry them well with a cloth,  season them with mace, pepper, and salt, then put them into a pot with butter, tie your pot down  with  paper, and  stew  them; when they come  out, drain  the gravy from them, and put them into potting pots, and cover them with clarified butter. 
 To pot Pigeons or Fowl. 
 Cut off their legs, draw them and wipe them with a cloth, but do not wash them; season t them pretty well with pepper and salt, put them into a pot with as much butter as you think will cover them, when stewed very tender; then drain them very dry from the  gravy; lay them on a cloth, and that will suck up all the gravy; season them again with salt, mace, cloves, and pepper beaten fine, and put them down close into a pot; take the butter, when cold, clear from the gravy, set it before the fire to melt,  and pour it over the birds; if you have not enough, clarify more, and let the  butter be near  an inch thick above the birds. Thus you may do all sorts of fowl: only wild fowl should be boned (but you may do as you please.) 
 To pot Salmon. 
 Take a piece  of  fresh  salmon, scale it,  and wipe it clean, (let your piece or pieces be as big as will lie cleverly on your  pot)  season  it  with Jamaica pepper, black pepper, mace, and cloves, beat  fine, mixed  with  salt, a little sal-prunella beat fine, and rub the bone with it; season with a little of  the  spice, pour  clarified  butter over it, and stew it well ;  then take it out carefu1ly, and lay it to drain;  when cold, season it well, lay it in your pot close, and cover it with clarified butter as above.  
 Thus you may do carp,  tench,  trout,  and several sorts of fish. 
 To pot Eels. 
 Skin, gut, and  clean your eels, cut  them in pieces about four inches long·, then season them with pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a little dried sage rubbed very fine; rub them well with your seasoning, lay them in a brown pot, put over them as much butter as will cover them, tie them down with  paper, stew them; take  them out, when cold,  put them into small pots,  and cover them with clarified butter.  You may pot lampreys the same way. 
 To pot Lobsters. 
 Take the meat out of the claws and belly of a boiled lobster, put it in a marble mortar, with mace, pepper, and salt, a lump of butter the size of half an egg, beat them all  together  till they come to  a paste, put one half of it into your pot, take the meat out  of the  tail part, lay it in the middle of  your pot, lay on it the  other part of your paste, press it close down, pour over it clarified butter, a quarter of an inch thick. 
 To clarify Butter. 
 Put your boat into a clean sauce-pan, set it over a slow fire, when it is melted scum it and take it off the fire, let it stand a little, then pour it over your lobsters; take care you do not pour in the milk which settles to the bottom of the sauce­pan. 
 To pot Shrimps. 
 Pick the finest shrimps you can get, season them with a little beaten mace, pepper,  and salt to your taste, and with a little cold butter pound them all  together  in a mortar till  it  comes to a paste, put it  down in  small pots, and pour over them clarified butter. 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 COLLARING. 
 To collar a Breast of Veal. 
 Take a breast of veal and  bone it, beat it with a rolling-pin, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, beat a little mace, cloves, nutmeg, and pepper very fine, with a little salt, a handful of parsley, and some sweet herbs, and lemon peel shred fine, a few  crumbs  of  bread;  mix  all together  and strew over it; roll it  up  very tight, bind it with a fillet, and  wrap it  in a  cloth, then  boil it  two hours and a half in water made  
 pretty salt, then hang it up by one end till cold: make a pickle: to a pint of salt and  water put  half a pint of vinegar, and lay it in a pan, and  let  the  pickle cover it;  and when you  
 use it, cut it in slices, and garnish with parsley and pickles. 
 A breast of mutton may be done the same way. 
 To collar Beef. 
 Take the thin end of the flank, or the flat rib of fine beef, but  not too fat; lay it into a dish with salt and saltpetre, turn and rub it every day for  a week, and  keep  it cool.  Then take out every bone and gristle, add the skin of the inside part, and cover it thick with the following seasoning cut small: a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some thyme, marjoram, and  penny-royal, pepper, salt, and allspice.  Roll the meat up as tight as possible, and bind it, then boil it gently for seven or eight hours. A cloth must be   put round before the tape. Put the beef under a good weight while hot, without undoing it: the shape will then be oval.  Part of a breast of veal rolled in with the beef, looks and eats very well. 
 Collared Eel. 
 Bone a large eel, but don't skin it: mix pepper, salt,  mace,  allspice,  and  a clove or  two, in the finest powder,  and  rub  over  the  whole  inside; roll it tight, and bind with a coarse tape.  Boil in salt and water till enough, then add vinegar, and when cold keep the collar in pickle.  Serve it either whole or in slices.  Chopped sage,  
 parsley, and a little thyme, knotted marjoram, and savoury, mixed with the spices, greatly improve the taste. -Mackerel or salmon  may  be  done  the same way. 
 To make Mock Brawn. 
 Take a piece of the belly part, and the head of a young porker, rub it with  saltpetre and let it lie three days,  then wash it clean, split the head and boil it, then take out the bones, and cut it in pieces, then take four ox feet boiled tender and cut in thin  pieces,  lay  them in  your belly piece with the  head cut small, then roll it up tight with sheet tin, that a trencher will go in at each end, boil it four or five hours, when it comes out  set it and a large lead weight, let it stand all night, and in the morning take it out of your tin, and bind it with a white fillet, put it into cold salt and water, and it will be fit for use. 
 You must make fresh salt and water every four days, and it will keep a long time. 
 To collar a Calf's Head. 
 Take a calf's head with the skin on, and dress off the hair, then rip it down the face, and  take out all the bones carefully  from the meat,  and steep it in warm blue milk till it is white, then lay it flat, and rub  it with the white of an egg, and strew over it a tea-spoonful of white pepper, two or three blades of beaten mace, and one nutmeg, a spoonful of salt,  two score of oysters chopped small, half a pound of beef marrow,  and  a large handful of parsley, lay them all over the inside of the  head, cut off the ears, and  lay  them in a thin part of the head, then roll it up tight, bind it up with a fillet, and wrap it up in a clean cloth, boil it two hours, and when it is almost cold, bind it 
 Up with a fresh fillet and put it in a pickle made of one pint of salt and water and half a pint of vinegar. 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 PUDDINGS. 
 To Make lemon Pudding. 
 TAKE three lemons and  grate the rinds off, beat up twelve yolks and six whites of eggs, 
 put in half a pint of cream, half a pound of fine sugar, a quarter of a pound  of butter melted; mix all well together, squeeze in the juice of two lemons,  put it over the  stove, and keep stirring it till it is thick;  put a puff-paste round the rim of the dish, put in your pudding stuff, and bake it three quarters of an hour. 
 To make a boiled Suet Pudding. 
 Take a quart of milk, four spoonfuls of flour, a pound of suet shred small, four eggs, one spoonful of beaten ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt; mix the eggs and flour with a pint of  the  milk very thick, and with the seasoning mix in the rest of the milk and  suet.  Let your batter be pretty thick, and boil it two hours. 
 Hunter’s Pudding. 
 Mix a pound of suet, ditto flour, ditto currants, ditto raisins stoned and a little cut, the rind of half a lemon  shred  as  fine  as  possible,  six  Jamaica peppers in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence; boil it in floured cloth or a  melon-mould,  eight or nine hours.  Serve with sweet sauce.  Add sometimes a spoonful of peach-water for change of flavour. 
 Plum Pudding. 
 The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass of wine or not, and one egg and milk, will make an excellent pudding, if long boiled. 
 Quaking Pudding. 
 Scald a quart of cream; when almost cold, put to it four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of flour, some nutmegs and sugar; tie it close in a buttered cloth; boil it an hour; and turn it out with care, lest it should crack.  Melted butter, a little wine, and sugar. 
 A transparent Pudding. 
 Beat eight eggs very well, and put them in a pan,  with half a pound of butter, and the same weight of loaf sugar, beat fine, a little grated nutmeg, set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens like buttered eggs, then put it in a basin to cool, roll a rich puff paste very thin, lay it round the edge of a china dish, then pour in the pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven half an hour, it will cut light and clear. 
 Baked Almond Pudding. 
 Beat fine two ounces of almonds, ten or twelve bitter ditto, yolks of  six eggs,  near  a  quart of cream, a little juice of lemon, and a few bread crumbs.  When well mixed, bake it half an hour, with  paste  round  the  dish,  or in  cups without paste. 
 To make a boiled Almond Pudding. 
 Beat four ounces of sweet almonds as small as possible, with five yolks of eggs and two whites, a quart of crean1, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and three spoonfuls of crumbs of white bread; mix all well together, and boil it:  in one, or in cups. 
 Sago Pudding. 
 Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four spoonfuls of sago nicely washed and picked, lemon peel, cinnamon, and nutmeg; sweeten to your taste; then mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly. A little port wine will improve it. 
 A Vermicelli Pudding. 
 Boil four ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new milk till it is soft, with a stick. or two of cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel, then put in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the yolks of four beaten eggs. bake it in an earthen dish without a paste. 
 A Marrow Pudding. 
 Pour on the crumbs of a penny loaf a pint of cream, boiling hot, cut a pound of beef marrow very thin,  beat four eggs very well,  with sugar and nutmeg to your taste, and mix them all well up together;  you may either  boil or  bake it, three quarters  of an  hour will do it;  cut  two ounces of citron very thin, and stick them all over it when you dish it up. 
 To make a baked Apple Pudding. 
 Take eight large apples, pare and core them, put them into a sauce-pan with just water enough to cover them till soft, then pour it away and beat them very  fine, stir in while hot a quarter of a pound  of  butter,  loaf-sugar  to  your  taste,  a quarter of a pound of biscuits finely grated, some nutmeg, the peel of a lemon grated; when cold, put in a quarter of a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs well beat; put paste at the bottom of the dish. 
 To make a Rice Pudding. 
 Take a pound of rice, four quarts of milk, stir in half a pound of sugar, a little nutmeg, and break in some fresh butter; butter a dish and pour it in and bake it;  you may add a quarter of a pound of currants, for change. If you boil the rice and milk, and then stir in the sugar, you may bake it before the fire, or in a tin oven. You may add eggs, but it will be good without.