content: 2019 TV Buying Guide for Nigger Friday I want to buy a smart TV as a gift for someone this year so I could show them how to cancel cable and watch shows without (((commercials))). Ended up spending a lot of time deciphering all the kike advertising lingo, so I figured I would share some of what I learned, This one's easy, all TV speakers sound like 100% crap with rare exceptions (40+ watts) and those exceptions are 90% crap. You can step up to a soundbar and, depending on cost, go anywhere from 80% crap to 50% crap. To even begin to have a sound experience that makes use of buzzwords like Dolby Atmos or DTS-HD, you'll need a $250+ stereo receiver with 1-2 massive subwoofers and 5-11 speakers spread throughout the room. At a minimum you'll need a 40+ watt TV speaker or a soundbar to even get intelligible, bearable sound. Older TV's, even up to LCD LED TV's, were larger and had more room to resonate sound inside their cabinets. The depthless LED's of today simply don't have the capacity to produce anything but terrible sound. tl/dr: Unless you plan on investing $500+ dollars in a sound system to go with the TV, the buzzwords around the TV's audio are absolutely pointless. Most are shit, some feature advertisements you can't make go away. Since all advertisements are niggers with white women or some other kikery, I would highly suggest avoiding any TV interface that has advertisements you can't disable. Some TV's have interfaces that don't have features for all programs, like they might be missing Vudu or Amazon, with no way to add those services. Some are extremely slow and unresponsive, specially on the lower end TV's. Some will attempt to ask for your credit card information just to use their TV interface. Not all TV interfaces are the same either, an Android TV interface is based on the speed of the chip inside the TV. So one TV could have a screaming fast Android TV interface while another has an incredibly slow and buggy one. There are plenty of HDMI adapters with the same Smart TV capabilities you can buy on the cheap like Roku, Chromecast, Fire TV and so on, but now you need 2 remotes to control your TV and/or you sacrifice some options. Also, unless you already have a wired Ethernet connection, get ready to run cables all over your house to update your interface unless your TV has wireless built in. tl/dr: Take time to research the interface for your TV, not just the type of interface, but the one on the exact TV you plan on buying. A lot of nasty surprises in interfaces. Contrast is how many levels of light and dark the TV has. Low contrast, like 1000:1 means that most images on your TV will look greyed or washed out. This problem can be amplified by how bright a TV can go. A bright TV with low contrast will simply wash out the images even more. Brightness on TV's is measured in something called Nits. Some new TV's use this as a bragging point of how many Nits it has. For example, there is a new TV that advertises 3000 Nits brightness, more than twice as bright as last year's model with only 1100 Nits of brightness. Every review I watched said the same thing about the 3000 Nit TV, turn the brightness down to 50% or it washes out the image. Pay double the price for double the Nits and then turn the Nits down to 50%, yikes. The high end OLED TV's have infinite contrast but sometimes are limited to as little as 1100 Nits. The difference is that on the OLED TV, the individual pixels can be turned off, making their Nit output 0. So their full range of Nits is 0-1100, whereas even the most expensive LED's can never reach 0, although they attempt it with something called Full Array Dimming with "Zones". Full Array Dimming means they use 100-400 LED lights in the back of the TV, and for dark areas of images on the TV they turn down or turn off those LED lights. On OLED TV's every single pixel is a light, sothey have millions of lights that can be turned on and off. tl/dr Cheap TV's will look washed out and shitty, images will never pop and dark scenes will be unviewable. Brightness (Nits) is only meaningful when you know how dark the TV can go. HRD10 is the older standard, the new better standards are HDR10+ and Dolby Vision. HDR10+ is proprietary to Samsung and doesn't seem to be taking off, it's the BetaMax of technologies. Most movies with HDR10+ also have Dolby Vision, but not the other way around. Unless you plan on buying a compatible Dolby Vision Ultra HD Blu Ray player and some of the hundred or so Ultra HD Blu Rays available, it's probably not something worrying about to much. Most streaming Dolby Vision content is going to be to compressed to make it worth the extra fuss, not that streaming might not improve in the coming years. The only really interesting standard is HLG. HLG basically sends a constant data signal to the TV telling the TV the best adjustments (brightness, color, contrast) for each individual frame of the movie. The idea being that the film looks as it was intended to look. Dark scenes are dark and light scenes are bright. It can also make movies "pop" as changes between scenes can be very dramatic. tl/dr: HDR10 is standard, HDR10+ has no content, Dolby Vision isn't a bad idea and HLG is definitely worth having on your TV. Cheap TV's have slow response times and refresh rates which makes your games have lots of motion blur. OLED's have the potential for burn in, although I get mixed signals on how often this actually happens, but other than that look amazing for gaming. Some newer TV's have features you would typically find on gaming monitors such as G-Sync and AMD FreeSync, but that's really for PC gaming enthusiasts. I hear anything over 60hz is just marketing hype, but does have merit as TV's claiming 120hz+ tend to be much smoother for gaming. tl/dr: 60hz refresh rates and response times over 8ms+ are going to be shit TV's to game on.  Anything under 32 inches in size isn't going to see much benefit from 4k. Some say it's pointless up to 50 inches. At 60 inches, the screen door effect  (seeing the individual TV pixels) of 1920x1080 (HD) displays is noticeable from a reasonably close distance on 60 inch TV's. tl/dr Just get 4k, that cheaper non 4k TV is going to be a shit TV irregardless of it's inability to not produce 4k. If you can afford an OLED TV, get one. If you can't and care what the picture looks like, get QLED. OLED is basically no trade offs, with all the various QLED TV's you are going to be playing a game of which features are the least annoying. If you do go with QLED, I'd stay on the cheaper side, between $600-$700 at most. Once you get past $700, quit fucking around and simply get an OLED as they should be sub $1,000 during Black Friday. $278 65" TV from Walmart. Specs, 1000:1 contrast ratio, 60hz, atrocious interface, banding, random shutdowns. Not good for gaming, not good for movies, maybe something you put in a bar to replace an old CRT TV. Unless you really need one, I would say no. In the next year or so, they are supposed to be releasing new 3D TV's that no longer require glasses. I had a 3D TV from the previous generation and actual thought it was pretty fun to watch a movie with some depth, I just couldn't stand wearing those stupid glasses. Without needing glasses and with even better 3D effects, I think the next generation of 3D TV's may finally get the formula right as they will not only not require glasses but have better refresh rates and features like HLG which will allow a better 3D experience overall. And who knows, maybe in a couple years they will start making movies that are actually worth watching again.