So you get this boar's head sausage and it comes in this sweet pack like this and you
can see there's a sweet little top on it like this and you're like oh it's a fresh pack
right?
So I open up one of the fresh packs and you know I'm getting into it and I'm like oh
sweet and I'm cutting layers off layers off I pull it all the way out and on this back
end like this one's nicely cut this thing was savage like someone had just been eating
like a meat stick like a rat
Whipple it nod like more than half of the sausage rations down but no we didn't have
a knife Devin she flipped it around and stuffed the business end back down and rewrapped it
I'm straight shooter she is not straight shooter I am straight shooter
She's looking at 13 year old boys hanging out with each other
That line just be sitting there undone was kind of amazing I'd looked at the thing for
quite some time thinking wow that would be awesome to have a route that went right out
of the parking lot pretty much to the rim
Pretty big route right in the heart of Donnelly Canyon about 170 feet I've put up the front
first pitch about three days ago and then came back yesterday and pushed it all the
way to the rim just shy of the rim rather full full on somewhat dirty a little dusty
a little windy really dirty 50 yards to the left of generic crack there's two trees at
the bottom the crack right in the middle
That first pitch was hard the crux was definitely at the bottom to like get out of the Bombay
and then 170 feet of climbing after that end of our trip was you have to dig deep for it
it goes it's wide the whole way hand stacks to squeezing and everything through pods
A big Bombay some blues out of the roof into just a couple huge pods and unrelenting hands
and then into another six inch stretch and it kind of ramps off at the top
Once I got to the base of the second pitch it was quite obvious right away that I had
maybe written a check with my mouth that my ass couldn't cash from that ramp went up into
an overhanging chimney I was either going to fit or not fit at all luckily I got up
there stared into the bowels of that thing didn't look impossible it just looked a little
different sometimes these cracks change on karmatic waves so you've been a good boy you
might fit been a bad boy you might not fit at all
I squeezed in got him where I fit in worked my way into the back and there was some gear
I was able to get worked my way out of the crack at which point I was like hanging over
the supercrack parking lot and there was a real defiant edge of dirt but then on the
other side of that dirt where the ret was it's crisp so I knew if I could get my foot
on it work the dust right inside and that shit worked I felt like a chinchilla when
I got out to the hand jam that was pretty much bathing in dirt
yeah I just fit just by the slimmest of margins definitely don't pack a lunch if you go after
that second pitch make skinny thoughts I did the second pitch but my hips don't fit
cleaning the gear was really hard the perfect way to end the trip
I tried climbing off with him it'll keep you true it'll keep your blood pure it'll keep
you young
keep you young
you
