The Flinders Ranges, 500km north of Adelaide, is a photographer's paradise with deep gorges
filled with majestic gums and waterholes surrounded by towering bluffs.
Wilpina Pound is the central focus of the National Park, with ancient ramparts towering
above the plain. Giant gums line the creeks. The most famous is the Casno Tree, named the
Spirit of Adurance, epitomizing the age of the landscape.
Wilpina Creek winds its way slowly out of the interior of the pound, through a stand of
young red gum. Following a path, its course can be followed into the pound.
A red-capped robin crossed our path after any insects we had disturbed. A large waterhole
is the source of water for the Wilpina Resort.
The narrow path winds its way through the rocks and across the creek to where the pioneers
attempted to grow wheat, but both the weather and the difficulty of accessing markets contributed
to their demise. A parentee scurried along the side of the
track as we headed back. The creeks and the gums lining them are an outstanding feature
of the rangers. The pioneers braved adversity in this remote
area. The grave of Emma Smith in this desolate part of the Flinders is testimony to their
fortitude. The remains of younger Guna Hutt stand as
a reminder to the Yistra Guard of Nature, to man's endeavours in this harsh environment.
The creeks in Brachina Gorge still had considerable water.
At the western entrance to Brachina Gorge, the ABC range disappears into the distance
towards Lee Creek, and the Brachina Creek, lined with red gums, makes its way out of
the pass.
Forty-two kilometres north of Hawker, the Morilana Creek crosses the Lee Creek Road.
Following the creek along the Morilana tourist drive takes us across to the Wilpina Road
through stunning scenery between Wilpina Pound and the Acaba Range.
Looking south from the Aruna Homestead towards the Pound, you start to realise why this area
has such an attraction for the great Australian artist of the Flinders, Sir Hans Heisen.
The wide fertile valley nestled between the ranges must have looked inviting for the first
pioneers, only to have their hopes dashed by the uncertainties of the weather.
Numerous emus congregate in the valley, including a father with his brood of chicks. In the
Platrix Pine, a spiny cheeked honey eater demolished a locust.
The Road into Sacred Canyon provides many lookouts over the ranges to Wilpina Pound.
Paper daisies cover the ground in this area. Walking into the canyon along the creek bed
soon takes you into a sandstone gorge where the going can become quite difficult, but
the reward is the Aboriginal petroglyphs in the steepest part.
Apialina ruins are all that remains of an attempt by Joseph Wills in 1850 to set up
a pastoral farm alongside the creek that only flows in good seasons. Like most early settlers,
the arid environment took its toll. The flat stone quarried on site and used for the construction
is a unique feature of Apialina.
Kaniaka Creek flows past the ruins of Kaniaka Station, once a large sheep run. In 1856,
the station leases toted 365 square miles and in a good season housed up to 70 workers.
Parachuna Creek only flows after exceptional rains, but its width where it emerges from
the ranges indicate how much water can flow for short periods. Higher up, water can remain
amongst the steep gorges.
