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When you are out in Mavericks, one of the things you got to know as well is that
it's a powerful wave and you can get in a lot of trouble.
So every time you are there, for example, don't go on the first wave
or even the second because you know there's going to be a couple more waves after that
and if something goes wrong on the first wave,
you're most likely going to end up on the rocks and it's something you don't want to get out there.
So just always choose the second or the third.
That's what the locals told me and I guess
if you commit and you decide to go on that wave then just go with
all your heart and try to make the drop.
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I'm really lucky to have these two waves so close from where I grew up.
I have Santa Marina for me. It's my perfect right-hander.
I like to surf at every conditions no matter the wind.
I just love it just to get up there because it's such a beautiful place.
And then Mundaka is one of the best waves.
From Bilbao it takes also one hour to drive so it's pretty much
the two places are very close together.
Mundaka is my backhand but I still love the feeling of grabbing the rail
and dragging my hand in the water.
The days I enjoy Mundaka the most is just the west wind days
that is rainy and I'm usually not that crowded so you can
wait and choose the waves and have a good time.
As a surfer you've got to go right and you've got to go left.
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I think training is really important for a big way surf.
What I try to do is always try to be active
and if I don't surf that day I just go for a little run
or just small things that at the end of the day
you know that you are in good shape and you're confident with yourself.
A lot about big way surf is the mentality what you have in your head
and for example I like to, as I said, I like to run
I like to swim, out in the water is really good exercise
for example I do 100 meters swim
really fast and then try to dive 25 meters and there
so it simulates what a big white powder is that you run out of air
and I'm trying to get used to that feeling that I run out of air
and I'm comfortable on those situations.
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I think my favorite destination for surf
you've got to be in Mexico. I think Mexico has
amazing waves, right handers, point breaks, leves,
beach breaks, it has all you want in such a small
place and in our
summers when the waves are small at home you know that up there is offshore every day
that the smallest wave you're going to surf is 2 meters
and a half and then from that it's so constant
like it doesn't really give you a rest because you know the next day is going to be
good so I don't usually when I'm up there I don't usually go out or anything
because I know the next day is a surf and it's going to be so good
so you want to be ready. I think Mexico is the destination
I'll go all the time and I want to keep
traveling too. MUSIC
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