On the coast of Thailand, Koh Samui's west coast hides a secret, the five islands.
And I would never have discovered this hidden gem if I hadn't read Bangkok Airways in
Flight Magazine on my way from Hong Kong, amongst the stories about beautiful palm-fringed beaches,
ancient and modern temples dedicated to Buddha, dramatic sunsets over the once gulf of Siam,
and of course coconuts. It was an article describing the closely guarded five islands
and their secret. I became determined to try and get permission to set foot on these mystical
islands and meet their protectors, and little did I know that a few days later this fisherman
Khun Leht, whose magazine picture I was looking at, would be navigating me across the azure blue waters.
Closely guarded by local fishermen around Thaling Nguyen Ngam, access to these islands
is strictly controlled from the tiny harbour on five islands beach. Here the impact of
tourism seems many miles away as they go about their daily business of fishing.
Clearing their traditional long boats, getting the nets ready for tomorrow's fishing, or
simply passing time away out of the hot afternoon sun. At last, permission is granted on the
basis that I will send a copy of this film and also a signed copy of one of my English
heritage videos. And so, leaving behind the deserted coves, miles of pristine and empty
beaches, jungle scapes and picturesque fishing villages, we head out into the Gulf of Thailand.
Today the weather is perfect and the sea inviting me calm, but I wonder how these traditional
fishing boats would fare in much rougher seas. Khun assures me that the raised bow will
ride out any wave, and anyway, my father made this boat when he was a young man and has
been blessed by Buddha ever since. So, comforted by the knowledge that we're well protected,
I sit back and gaze at the awesome majesty which is unfolding before my eyes.
As we get closer to the islands, dramatic vertical limestone cliffs rise out of the
sea. Surely nobody can survive on these islands, there doesn't seem to be enough space even
to pitch a tent. But about 30 men do live here in precariously balanced rickety huts
made from wood and bamboo, often only accessible by fragile looking ladders. And if you try
to land without permission, you're likely to be looking down the wrong end of a shotgun.
But why do they guard these islands so vigorously? The answer lies high up on the sheer cliff
faces, birds nests. Twice a year these agile fishermen harvest the birds nests for a company
on the Thai mainland. The nests can be sold in China and Hong Kong for between £2,500
and £3,000 per kilo, where they're regarded as great delicacies and are used to treat
skin conditions or for revitalising organs. And of course, they're also the principalling
reading to burst nests soon. Out of season, the nests still need to be protected from
thieves, hence the exposed bamboo huts. Expertly guided by my fisherman friend Khun, we edge
close to the base of the 50 metre high cliffs. Passing sea caves, one with a sunlit relic
of a bygone period. Sea birds expressing their displeasure at our arrival and then Khun passes
the time of day with his cousin and converse, yes, I am expected and I will be welcome.
Kotalu and Khodin are joined by an almost invisible wreath, so imagine the unwanted visitor trying
to navigate around here. We reach the only beach on the five islands, on Koh Mai Koh,
and as we slowly pull in, a young islander anxious to show off his expertise greets me.
Giant clams are being preserved around these islands as they are being farmed almost to
extinguish the tourist train in other areas of the Far East. But how do the fishermen
survive? Food is brought in once a month to supplement what they catch from the sea and
it's cooked in the most primitive of kitchens. Fresh water is stored in the blue plastic barrels
and Yomai sells it to the men from the other islands. He also uses the barrels to store
fish and it's the nearest thing he's got to having a refrigerator. Yes, living conditions
are primitive but the men seem happy and certainly made me feel very welcome. Everyone throughout
Thailand seems to want to greet you in a warm and friendly smile. All too soon it was time
to head back to the mainland. Mind you I think this piece of camera which I recorded on the
return journey where the expression, high as a kite comes to mind, expresses my feelings
completely about this experience I had just had. This is an absolutely incredible journey
out to the five islands. It's been absolutely fantastic. I've really enjoyed it. Koh Samui
is a wonderful place. Absolutely gorgeous. It's paradise. It really is paradise. So it's
back to the safety of the Little Harbor, a cold beer in my hotel. But not before experiencing
one of the most dramatic sunsets that I've ever seen on my many journeys around the world.
I lay there on the soft, warm sand reflecting on the privilege I had been granted that day
to gain access to a mysterious and exotic way of life. The ancestral craft of harvesting
birds' nests, restaurant venues will never seem the same again. And to the unforgettable
experience I had had of travelling on and around the closely guarded five islands of
Thailand's exotic Koh Samui.
