In
this day of internet surf prediction we get so caught up in riding the perfect
wave all the time you know and when we can't ride the perfect wave then we get
frustrated. You know if we take a lesson from what we used to do you'd go on a
trip and you'd get what you get and you're stoked when you got waves it was
a process of discovery and a real adventure. You know that's what really
appeals to me now in terms of surf travel. I'm not into the totally canned
perfect wave everyday thing I want a mission I want to go where there's
nobody else I want to have wide-open spaces and very few people.
It's a growing process you know both as a surfer and as a person exploring
other cultures and exploring other countries and finding new waves is all
part of that amazing adventure.
Music
They used to come here, they are my friends, so I'm very happy to see them around in my place.
I can say all of the sefals, all the sefals are very good and they behave very good when they come here.
And I'm trained by all means that the skirmanners do these, they don't freeze their cars, I try to protect them.
One of the things that we're blessed with in South Africa is that we have access to such amazing resources close, close by.
The chances of you bumping into another surfer on a boat trip in Mozambique are incredibly remote.
So those waves that you find up there, the waves that we ride up there, we generally only ride those with the guys that go.
And yes, we don't get perfect surf all the time, it's not always cooking.
The systems come through and sometimes in between the systems there are flat spots.
That's when you've got to think laterally about having fun, doing different things.
We get into a different kind of mindset.
No, no, no, no, not by Mozambique. I don't like it. I enjoy it here.
While the sefals are just here, one minute you walk, inside the water they serve, then they come back home.
Number one, number one, number one. I enjoy it to be white people here, with my friends there.
I get a call every day.
Mickey Dora once famously said, when there's surf, I'm totally committed and when there isn't, it doesn't exist.
Nature calls the shots. We just play the hand and on a recent trip now we just, you know, we went all the way up into Mozambique.
We went all the way up into Mozambique to look for surf and we got little waves, but we didn't get the surf we went to go and find.
Ironically, we came home and three days, four days of just absolutely cooking, cooking waves, right on our doorstep.
You know our reward is waves, but it's so much more than that when we go out and explore.
You
