I've known Zhuao for almost 20 years.
Zhuao.
He was the one who told me about the dark side of big waves.
A rough, heavy sign.
Without pity.
Without justice.
And he felt it on the flesh many times, in some of the most dangerous surf spots around
the world, like Puerto Escondido, Pai, Nazare, and Mavericks.
I know he met the master not so long ago, but their friendship grew fast.
The master also fought many times abroad, representing Portugal in Muay Thai championships.
He's a tough man with a lot of character, who helps Zhuao get fit and strong.
But most importantly, shaping his mind for competition, designing a specific training
for this tireless sea wolf.
With a huge focus on balance.
The balance.
Puerto Escondido is a dream for any big wave rider.
According to Zhuao, something you can't miss.
A place of tremendous intensity.
A highly technical wave with huge barrels.
That reminds him of Portuguese super tubes, but on steroids.
I know it was important for him to return there.
More than important, inevitable.
I know he was prepared.
I know he had an amazing session before the event.
And I also know that he returned broken.
Because he couldn't, by far, show what is Zhuao at his best.
With that relentless soul, always about to burst.
It was Alex Botello who scored this time.
And I proudly heard my friends say the future of Portuguese big wave surfing is in good hands.
What we know well is that Alex is the prodigal son of this old generation of Portuguese surfers.
Punta de Lobos.
For Zhuao, it's a magical place.
A place that is part of him since he started running the big wave tour.
I clearly remember a gigantic day of surf.
Huge, perfect waves grinding close to the rocks.
Danger and fear.
Peie and Maui, you got a bad score.
A nasty wipeout cost him the heat.
Maybe he didn't adapt well, or maybe he just got too deep into the ocean, I don't know.
There was something that kept him from giving more.
But he came back with his head held high.
He stayed in the water after the heat, and had an amazing session, showing his unconditional
love for big waves.
Even Gary Linden, one of the pioneers of the big wave tour, was impressed to see it.
There's just something unique in this love he overflows at each drop he makes.
It's not about the money, it's not about the fame, it's something beyond, perhaps
unaccountable to the vast majority of human beings.
Big wave surfing, as it happens, in such an intense and brutal way, is a way of life.
Better, as he tells me over and over again, is a way to feel alive.
And if you gaze for long into the abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you.
It's not about the fame, it's about the fame, it's about the fame, it's about the fame.
