"Steamer City of Rome" Sept: 15. 1886.
We, Helen and I, came on board this steamer yesterday
and spent the night in stateroom 92, and sailed
on our long desired and long meditated voyage at
six and a half o.clk this morning, with little
wind and a remarkably Smooth Sea, less
ruffled than I ever saw the sea before. I had
thought to cross the ocean quietly and without
being recognized by anybody , I ever saw before, but
this notion was soon dispelled for I was soon
approached by Rev Henry Wayland son of the late 
Bllelock
Presedent Wayland and by mr George Bllelock
a gentleman I knew nearly forty years ago as 
a Boy. Both Gentlemen greated Helen and myself
cordially and expressed pleasure at having us
for fellow passengers. At breakfast we found ourselves
opposite to mr and mrs Chandler. Mr Chandler
had heard me speak on the Assassination
of Abraham Lincoln in Rochester and had
not forgotten the impression. Our voyage will
thus evidently not be one of solitude.


several letters came on board and were handed to me
after our voyage began and we were well on our
way to the gates of the sea and unfortunately
the pilots left the ship too soon to permit of 
sending a word of answer or a word of fare
well to many dear friends to whom it would
have been a pleasure to have sent such a word.
We have now been on this noble ship about
8 hours and no sign of the dreaded trouble 
of sea sickness. Had two or three short talks
with mr Breelock and mr Wayland. The latter
is a remarkable clever talker and is a
man very free from pretense but I fear
is a little biased in his politics by Mugwampism.
I like him. We have but few few passengers
and of them there is a large springling of 
ladies, most of the latter thus far have spent
their time on deck in steamer chairs
with Books began peacefully closed on their
laps more as oran ornaments than for
use. While the men walk the deck and


smoke, smoke and smoke, looking as solemn as
if they were on the way to a funeral. We have
not been on this steamer as I have said more than
8 hours and have already had two fare meals
and have the promise of two more before the 
day closes. I have not yet found out who
the captain, but like a true yankee our Helen
has made the acquaintance of the pilot and
has seen the Captain Monroe. Everything
between officers and men seem to go an very
smoothly. Commands are calmly given and 
promptly obeyed. In the calm where we are
now are, a young man, is persistently boring our
ears by playing on an organ that stands at one
end of the dining saloon. The passengers toward
each other exhibit the usual reserve at this
the beginning of the voyage, with air of
indifference about the presence of each others.
They will show more interest as the days
roll on and half of them shal feel the
the grip of the sea sickness.


. The City of Rome is said to be the largest except
the Great Eastern. She behaves beautefuely
in pleasant weather, but it remains for us
to see whether she will gain this credit
in a storm.
Sept 16. A strong head wind seven said in sight
during the day. Pleasant greeting by Captain
monroe mr and mrs Chandler. They
the latter hav seen and heard me before
meeting me here. The English passengers
all agreeable and mind their business and
not disturbed by our presence. My friend
Rev Henry Wayland urges me to address te
passengers. I decline for the present but may do
so by and bye. We are four hundred and 19 miles
from Sandy brook at noon to day - The day has
been without marked interest.
17. Sept. the morning opens beautifully on a smooth
sea. - and a favorable wind only one sail in sight
at nine o.clk am. Our good ship glides along at
the late of 16 nots.


Thus far both Helen and I have shown ourselves good
sailor neither of us have had to to dispense with
a meal, but go promptly down as the sound
of the gong.
Sept 18. The first sensation a solitary whale
spouted on our starboard bow and caused
passengers to see him 
a rush of
or her. In the Evening after dinner my 
friend Mr Henry Wayland brought me
promenently to the attention of my fellow passengers
by taking a vote of the passengers inviting to
deliver an address. I had hoped to escape
this infliction but is easier in such cases to 
comply than to refuse so I am booked
for an address on monday.
Sept 19. This is Sunday and one of our fire 
men is dead and is to be buried in the sea 
today. Association, predjudice
make more solemn to be buried
on the sea than on land, but nothing
else.


Monday morning Sept 20. Have just been on deck and enjoyed
the contrast between the rough cloudy rainy weather of yes.
with calm and tranquil outlook on the sea this morning
We have [assed through or by a large school of porphose
some of them apparently playing with our powerful ship
by diving under its bow as if she were a fish like
themselves. since coming on board of the City of Rome
I have been reading English traits by Emerison and 
have been glad to find my own views of the civilization
of England supported by one as thoughtful and able
as the Sage of Concord. I am to speak to ch
of the passengers of such as may be disposed
or pleased to hear more me this Evening if the good
weather holds and I am dreading it. The 
arrangements to do so, was entirely unsought
and even regretted by me. Yet I have found
it impossible to day no to an invitation
so polite and pressing. I hardly know what I 
shall manage to say to such an audience
but something I must say when once on
my legs


Tuesday Sept 21. The sea rough but the City of Rome wonderfully firm and
steady dashing the heavy bellows from her prow in a manner to commend
her to all who go down to the sea in ships and do business on the 
deep. I never felt in any vessel such a perfect sense of safety on the
sea. Everybody seemed cheerful in the prospect of a speedy termination
of the voyage notwithstanding the resistance of a heavy head
wind and rolling billows some of the latter frequently sending 
their spray over the foward deck driving passengers from that
part of the ship  We have on board a curious and somewhat
entertaining old sea captain from Newhampshere who has
other all round the world and is now bound to Calcutta who
may well be called the "ancient mariner" or seems to be his amusement
to show good naturedly how much he knows and other concieted
folk how little they know something of a bore and yet I like
him. He likes a good listener and finds in Helen and myself and
audience that suits him well. We are all eyes and ears and no
tongues. We hear his stories and observe his impressive gesture.
with appropriate admiration and wonder - and he perceiving
is greately encouraged to go on with his narratives which though 
prolix are not dull.


Wednesday 22. Sept
at two oclk, or there about the mountain coasts of
dear old Ireland, to the delight of the expectant passage
passengers myself included came into mind. Pleasant
as our voyage had been much as we admired the
ship, short as had been our voyage, we were all
delighted at the prospect of standing upon the solid
old earth. In four or five hours after discrying land
we were saftely in the capacious Harbour of Queenstown
In one hour after our landing here we were off again 
to the Irish Sea for Liverpool. In that hour
we had landed our mail many of our 
passengers received London papers and some
of us received letters from our friends. I received one
from a Mr Rawlins of Wrexham Wales
introducing me to his son in Liverpool
Sept 23. Arrived at Liverpool. Everything about the Docks
much the same as forty years ago except forty years older
The  and by reason of smoke darker but no sign of decay
anywhere all strong and solid about the Docks and
the people full of life and activity. In the Evening Helen


walked out into the street to see and hear the near sights
and sounds of the strange city and were deeply interested in
the general movement of the immense throng of 
carriages, omnibuses, carts carriages and people that
passed in front of St. Georges Hall an im imposing
structure: The throng seemed made up of working people, They walked
as if hurried along by an irresistible pressure. Boys girls
men and women, some in plain clothing and some in 
scarcely any clothing at all bare footed and bare headed
all hurrying along to gether in motly procession once 
in a while a family begging a woman with a babe 
in arms and two or three small children at her skirt. she
heartbroken and heartbreaking
singing in mournful strains. yet upon the whole
the crowd in cheerful many voices and loud laughter
occasionally rise from the multitude. One sees in
the moving mass the immense energy there is
in this English nation. I was however struck by the
number of short men and women among these
working people. They afford few of what is called the
typical Englishman.


Sept: 24. Attended the international Exhibition. much
interested - especially in the display of fine models
of naval archetecture and many other mechanical
branches. though the display in no sense equals
our Centennial Exposition. 
25. Sunday a quick stroll over the city wher we saw
Liverpool in its Sunday cloths and in its Sunday
stillness and repose. It was a hush almost
complete more perfect than even a Washington 
Sunday. There was above us a struggle of sund
sunshine and shadow but the blue sky had the
advantage. In the Evening we attended worship
at Pembrook Chapel. A fair sermon and good hearty
singing by a choir of boys led by a man.
Oct. 1st.. We have now spent a week in Liverpool have
visited the art galleries the Free Library and the
autumn Exhibition of new paintings. In
the gallery there are two powerful pictures
one description of a struggle for life between
wolves and the other of a slavehunt by Blood
hounds in america. We have also visited


that wonder of naval architecture the great Eastern
now used as a show and a low class of theatricals
Helen has a history of the great ship up to this date.
Two days ago we visited the famous old Town of
Chester full of historic interest reaching back to
the Roman invasion. A part of the old Roman
wall still remains to bear witness to the marvellous
power of that people. The Cathaderal in this place
is one of the finest in England and we spent several
hours in viewing its pulpit alters tablets and it
its carvings, pictures and its imposing architecture.
Religion built no such Temples in our day.
The pride of rival sects does pretty fair work in
this line, but it cannot equal there structures
of the past. The imagenation is nowhere addressed
to so powerfully addressed by modern structures as in
all the appointments of these old structures. It
is noticed that the Church of England is fast returning
to Romanism. A Catholic preest was asked if he
did not feel resentment at the fact that this
grand old Cathedral had gone into hands of the


the Church of England? He said no they are coming
back to us as fast as they can and this impression
is becoming quite general.
To day we are making ready to go to St. Neots.
to spend a few days there before going to London
We leave Liverpool without regrets and yet we
have seen much that has interested us.


Arrived in Paris Wednesday 20th October 1886
and rode to the Hotel Britanique, Avenue Victorea -
Premaere Aroudessmont.
Dejean: Jan: 6..th 18867
We are over in the old city of Dejean.
The number of the inhabitants 53 53 thousand
met two persons at table a lady and Gentleman
who early opened pleasant conversation with
us. A little fromage caused the opening
I happened to say to Helen I would like the
cheese and being overheard it was instantly
handed me and from that we were on
sea and talking about the wondrous
in improvements in Steam
navigation agreeing in everything and
differing in nothing.
Friday Evening: Jan 17th arrived in Lyon.
The weather was dark and rainy. We first
not
called at the Hotel Univers but being pleased


we moved off bag and baggage to the Hotel le Bordeaux
and found here excellent accomdation accomodation
We spent here Saturday and Sunday 8th & 9th Jan -
on Saturday morning we proceeded first of all
to the american consolate, for the purpose 
of ascertaining the cementary in which Henry
Wagoner, formerly connected with the consolate
was interned. We received at first by Mr
Bryan the consul rather coolly - but after
a while his manner changed and became
warmer and he allowed us to see his Books
but we gained but little from them. In fact
we only learned that Mr Wagoner's salary was
canceled in 1878. The consul told us that we
might out what we wanted by going to the
Hospital Dieu where. he supposed mr
Wagoner was treated till he died. We went
there and spent a long time in searching
but found nothing to show that Mr W
has been in that Hospital. These enquiries
9th
occupied Saturday the 8th Sunday we went


Took a carriage and drove to the country in
search of cemetaries - supposing we should find
from the Books where our friend was said - 
we were taken by a mistake to the Hebrew
Cemetarie, and did not stop long. We supposed
he could not be said in a Catholic ground and
have englead for a Protestant cemitarie and
Drove off to one in wh. both catholics and Prots were
buried. but after dilegent search were - no trace of his
grave was found - the Books did not show that he was
interred here at all. There we betook ourselves to the
other side of Lyons. we had been on the Eastside of the
Rhone, and now we betook ourselves to west side
of the Soane, the two rivers are on either side
of the city. Our luck was no better on the one
side than on the other. But from the
heights of on the west side, had the weather
favored us, which it did not we should have
an extensive view of the country about 
Lyons and some day we might have
seen the alps.


Monday Jan: 10. cameto avignon. Took lodgings at Hotel
Du Luxomborg and was made very comfortable. Avignon 
one of
is the oldest, quaintest, crookedest and queerest places I have ever
visited. It is a walled city and the walls are in excellent condition - 
It was once the city of the Popes, and there is here an old
Palace of the Popes and a church connected with it
in which five Popes were consec: The palace is a vast piles
more like a castle to be defended by armies, than the
residence of a minister of the Prince of Peace. In walking
through is massive walled corrodors and galleries some
of them frescoed with saints and angels its stately tower
towers - its hall of the consistory and peeping into its
dungeons, its room of inquistion where people were
tortured and coaxened to death for rejecting the dogma
of the Romish faith. I almost hated the name of Church.
and  What a horrible lie that Romish church
has palmed of upon the people of this and other
country pretending that its pope, is the vice gerant
of God, the Creator of the Universe, and how
strange it is that mu millions of sane men
have believed this stupendous and most arrogt lie


Jan 11th . still in Avignon. This has been a great day for
Helen and myself we have not only gave through
the fort
the Palace of the Popes, but we have visited St Andre
and threaded our way through one of the best preserved
Feudal Castle, now to be found in Europe. Through
and the Popes Palace
structures like there we see and hear and feel
more of the past than by any amount of reading - 
There is a fascination about avignon and its
vicinity, makes me hate to leave though I must
do so tomorrow. It was a great peace five hundred
years ago and great in its associations now.
I shall probably have occasion to speak of it
in detail time by & bye.
Jan: 12. departed Avignon pour Marseilles. Stopt two
hours at Varenan. So the the ruins of the old amphetheatre 
a magnificent structure, saw the remains of an
Roman Threatre, a long row of stone coffins for
found near the Town while constructing the Railway
ode through the crooked narrow streets of the
old town, some of them so narmal narrow that
one may shake hands or stab his neighbor pass


without crossing over to do either. The guide book told us
Arh A. was remarkable for its beauteful women. They
must been in their houses. They certainly did not
appear in the streets. The town seemed the deadest 
I have seen in France.
Jan: 13. Arrived in Marseilles last night too dark
to get a view of the blue waters of the mediteranean.
We took a room at the grand Hotel Beauvan.
On the morning of the 14th Took Helen into 
a small boat and was rowed out to the
old Chateau D' If made famous by the story
of Mounte Christo by Alex Dumas - 
Jan 15th .. W Took train for nice. Stopt at Hotel
West End. Nice is a celibrated winter resort
for health and is a most delightful place
both for climate and the splended view of
the blue water of the mediteranian
spent but one day here and pushed on
through Mentone and several other interesting
towns to Genova. Took board for three days - 
and their brought us to Tuesday 18th.


Jan: 18th . Came to the old Town of Pisa. Saw the Leaning 
Tower the Cathedral, the Chandeler suspended in it and
of which it is said that Galion Gallileo obtained his
idea of the motion of the Earth. saw also the Baptistry
remarkable for its archetectural proportion and its
wonderful accoustic properties. the effect of this
reverberating quality of the place is almost startling
and yet very pleasing.
Jan 19. the day of days in our tour. for it brought
us to Rome. We are stopping at the Hotel Du Sud - 
a very comfortable hotel. It is night and we must
curb our curiosity till morning. The rid from
Pisa to Rome is for the most part in sight 
of the medetareanion on the one hand and snow
capped mountains on the other and yet men
were plowing green fields on either side of the
road and women were at work in the fields
also. All the plowing was done by oxen
and they of a very long horned breed. Olive
and pine trees, the latter called umbrl umberella
pines because of their shape.


made a pleasing feature of the Landscape.
January 20. This day has been rich in accomplishment -
It was our first morning in the Eternal City and
had for us an interest which no words at my
command can fitly describe. I stood where until
recently I never expected to stand. under the Dome of
St Peters, the largest Cathedral in the world. and
around which clusters a larger interest perhaps
than any other so called Christian edifice. In 
looking at its gorgeous splender one could not help
being deeply impressed by its gorgiousness and perfection
despite of its utters contradiction to the life and lessons
of Jesus. He was meek and lowly, but here was little
else than pride and pomp. It is well for the
world that the age that could rear this wonderful
building so perfect in architectural grace has
of
past. Yet in view of what it speaks architectural
skill of man and of his possibilities we may
rejoice that this marvellous building was
erected and that it will long stand to please the
eye of man


Jan: 24 21. Another bright day. cool and bracing, and the blue sky
answered well sterreotyped discriptions. The time was
favourable for viewing the vast assemblage of shattered ruins
spread out before us in the great Roman forums. The forums
of Trajen and other features of the ancient greatness of
Rome We did not views these alone. men and women were
there perhaps, from each quarter of the globe, seated or
standing in the sunlight with pencels, pens and note
books in their hands notiing the fallen columns, broken
tablets over which skillful artificies, thought and wrought
long before the Babe of Bethlehem was born. I have seen
that
nothing more impressive and solemn. nothing tells
so eloquently. the story that all who live must die and
at last, not only for man. but for all his best endeavors
it is dust to dust ashes to ashes. Mable, granite in 
hardness
whatever vastness shape form or position. must yeeld
how
to the soft touch of time. Yet, and grandly and
tablets 
persistently have these old columns marble blocks
resisted. how nobly have they endured to bear
testimony to the energy, the ambition and the
greatness of the people who two thousand years


Sunday 23. Jan: Visited a second time the Pincian hill and in the
bright sunshine of that day took another view of the great city and
listened to its thousand bells calling its people to worship.
The scene and sounds of that hour were full
of interest and suggestive of thought. Carrying the mind
back over vast periods of history - and the effect was highligted in the
afternoon of that day when we stood upon the capitoline
in the distance
hill and surveyed the stupendous colossium and the
vast ruins of this famous hill itself. over which have
rolled the distructive forces of two thousands years.
Monday 24. We were by special favor to see some of the intereor treasures
of St. Peters. This privilege was secured to u us by Mrs E.Q. Putnam -
and through the friendship for her of an emenent priest. These treasures
consisted of costly vestments ormented with gold, silver, rich laces, 
Cardinals
and all manner of precious stones - worn by Popes ^ Bishops and
on great occasions then there were gold and silver crosses richly
jewelled mitres and other brilliant things with which papacy
well known how to dazzle the eyes of the credulous and superstitious
The sight of these these things only increased my sense
of the hollowness of the vast structure of the Romish Church
and my conviction that Science must in the end do for


that church what time has done for the vast structures of kingly pride and power
which in broken and mouldering all over Rome.
Tuesd From the rooms in which we saw these costly vestments
we were conducted to a room on the opposite side of the
great church - in which we were shown two of the veretable
Thorns which pierced the brow of Jesus on the day of his crucifixion
a casket containing the head of St Luke, the shin bones of lazerrus
the brother of mary and martha, and a lock of the hair of the
Virgin mother of Jesus. These were shown us by a gowned priest who
seemed to believe what he said. He also showed us a piece
the cross upon which Jesus was crucified. In passing about
the grand Cathedral we saw sundry celebrations of mass going
on men and women boswing and crossing themselves - and
some kissing the toe of statue of St. Peter - which toe
has already been nearly kissing away - 
Tuesday 25th went to the Vatican saw among other great
pictures, a modern one proclaiming the new dogma
of the emaculate conception of the Virgin - the mother
of Jesus. The annoucement of this fresh tax upon
the creduality of the faithful in this picture is well
calculated to impress favorably the devout Catholic


The face of Pope pious pius. was given by the Artist a celestialexpression
surpassing
beyond any moden attempts in that direction I have seen -
some of the faces of the Cardinals seemed to be a little doutful
and had been brought to consent to the new dogma under
external pressure rather than internal conviction.
Wednesday. 26, Janu After seeing the wonders of the Vatican
Palazzor Moroni 165 Borgo
went to lunch with the Putnams at their Hotel. Vecchio, Roma - 
           We spent here the remainder of remainder of the day and spent it very
pleasantly. The elder mrs Putnam, was formerly Miss Caroline
Remond - sister to the late Charles Lenore Remond, - Her son Edmund
married a miss Elleson of Cheltenham England - a very pleasant
lady who is now the mistress of the house. We met here
she that I knew forty years and more ago as miss
Sarah Remond, and also Maritcha Remond. A daughter
of the late Rev John Sargent is boarding with the Putnams - 
It was very delightful to meet this charming circle
of massachusetts people away off here in the city
of Rome. Like myself the Remond sisters with
exception of Caroline have grown quite old but
in all of them I saw much of the fire of their
eloquent Brother Charles.


26. Jan: 26. called to see miss Edmonia Lewis who had loaned
Helen some Books - found her in a large building, near
the very top in a very pleasant room with a commanding
view. No. 4 Via Venti sep Settembre, Roma - Here she lives,
and here she plies her fingers in her art as a sculpturer
she is seems very cheerful and happy - and successful -
She
and made us obliged to her for kind offers to serve us in
any way she could - and she certainly seems able to serve us
in many ways. She has resided in Rome twenty years
and constantly speaking Italian has somewhat impared
her English.
Thursday Jan: 27. We started for Naples and after a pleasant ride of six hours - 
beginning with rain and ending with sunshine with the snow
as we rode along
of clad Appenines, delighting our eyes ^ she with their
changing formly and lofty heights. and the valley through
which we passed out spread with well with well tilled fields -
spotted here and there with heards of sheep and
in
occasional groups of women, with picturesque
head gear, hard at work with spud and hoe - 
among the vines and gardens, to increase the 
charm of the journey, we arrived at Naples - 


Before entering the city we were startled by a wonderous spectacle one which almost
pain us for our voyage acorss the sea: It was a vast volume of vapear
and spoke smoke converted by brilliant sunbeams into snowy
whiteness and grandly floating off over the blue mediteranian
from the far famed vessuvious mountain. The sight awed and
held us in almost breathless interest - and became more imposing
and impressive the longer we beheld it.
Jan: 28. Our excersion to day took us to the Bourbon Palace and its
Montin
on
beautiful grounds capets Capo de monte. a spended place
giving us a splended view of the Bay. Vesuvius, Serento, Capri - 
and the surrounding country - The Palace is a plain stately
building without, but very richly furnished we and abounds
with numerous works of Art. paintings and statuary - A
picture of the assasssination of Julius Ceaser was very
striking - and one of Michel Angelo. Kissing the hand of his
dead friend. Vitriori Victoria - Colonna - fixed attention - 
Besedes Helen and myself our party was composed
of miss Gates, miss Lewis, Mr and Mrs Hipwell, miss
Gates Gates is an artist and philanthropist - has done
a great deal for the Colored people


Jan 29 - spent the fore noon in writing. Afternoon went with
Helen and Mrs Davis of Ind. an amiable lady. to the
San Martino, a convent of the Capuchen Monks the
largest convent of the kind in the world. It is however
living
no longer a convert, but It had been taken possession of
by the Government - and its fine halls and now a museum
full of paintings and many other interesting works of Art -
The church in this old convent is one of the costly
in Europe. I have seen so much of these religious
paintings - that I was less interested in what I found here than
in the fine view of the city and harbor.
Sunday 30 Heard a strange sermon at the U.P. Church. on the
greatness of man
Monday 31 Jan. Went to musiem with miss Lewis the friend of miss
gates. A birds eye view of pictures, statuary and many
objects of interest taken from the ruins of Pompei and
Herculanium. The perfection of some of these in form color
and utility was ref remarkable considering their antiquity
in some respect they transcended modern art. The musiem
is someting to be seen not over but many times
in order to comprehend its many attractions


Tuesday Feb 1st.. I contented myself in walking alone along
the Villa Nationale, looking at the fisherman on the Bay and
the fast horses - which dashed by - In the Evening lectured on John B.
to a fine audience in the U.R.Ch. presided over by the Rev Mr
Evering -
Wednesday 2d. February. In company with a large and pleasant party
headed by Rev J.C. Fletcher. we went to Pozzuoli, the Puteoli of
the Rich and dined on the shore of the river styx - The whole
excursion was deeply interesting. The ground over which we went
was full of Roman remains and the evidence of the
weath and genus of that enterprizing and war like people
The landing place of Paul. the tomb of Virgil, the house of
Cicero Cicero where Brutus partus with Portia - the ruins
of Temple were shown us with many other objects. It was
a day long to be remembered. That which interests me
most was the fact that I was looking upon the country
seen eighteen hundred years ago by the Prisoner apostle
on his way to Rome to answer for his religion. It
somehow gave me a more vivid impression of the
heroism of the man as I looked upon the grand ruins
of the religion against which Paul dared to preach.


These heathen Temples represent a relegion as sincerely believed
in as men now believe in the Christian relegion and Paul
was an infedel to this heathen religion as much as
Robert Ingorsol is now to the Christian Relegion
Thursday 3d.. 1887
Was a day spent in comparative quiet. We needed to rest
from the labors of the previous day - 
Friday 4. Jan. Another brimful day. In company with mr Fletcher
who knows this region about the Bay of Naples by heart. we went
to Pompeii distroyed in the year 79. by the ashes and lava of
Vesuvius. I was told in Rome that there was little to see in 
Naples. but it was almost worth the voyage across the
Altantic to see the part of Pompeii already unearthed and
to think of the two thirds of it still underground. All
that has been said and written of this buried city is
exceeded by the city itself. It speaks to us of the age and
body of ancient times with a power and vividness
which holds us in breathless and thoughtful attention These
pompians some of whose forms at are exhibited in 
the musium were wealthy and powerful slaveholders. and 
surrounded themselves with luxuries which surpass


in some respects those of modern civilization. The magnificence - 
of their dwellings. the splendour of their Temples. the extent of
their amphetheatres, the costliness of their decorations in
paintings and sculpture, the arrangements of their
baths. cold and warm tell of vast wealth, marvellous 
thought and still. The vanity of all efforts in this line
in enforced with tremendous emphases as we walk amid
these vast ruins and feel that was what we see a are
only one third of what lie still buried under the ashes
ashes of the still smoking mountain well we see in
the distance.
Sunday Febry 6. Attended U.P Church in the morning. Heard a sermon
on Balaam by Rev. Mr Erving- rather a memorable discourse. Dined
with Mr Gutheridge an English Gentleman. In the
Evening listened to Mr Jones who preached in Italian
at the methodist church - I was called upon for
a few words at the close. wich were interpreted
by mr Jones. I congratulated the congregation
that they had now the liberty to worship outside
the Romish church and said a few words of
human Brotherhood.


Febry.monday 7. We go to day to Amalfi in company with mr and 
mrs Murray from Sidney Australia. The ride is said to be one
of the most delightful of any of this surpassingly charming Bay of
naples. The Rev J.C. Fletcher is to accompany us.
 Tuesday 8 8.
We have found the ride to Amalfi. more delightful and more
impressive than any description of it of written or spoken. The
road must have taxed ingeneering skill to the utmost, They
Who built it had to fight against sea and land - against
heights and depths above and below. and solid rocks in
front. The road is an ingeneering triumph. and affords
one of the finest rides in the world. The towns along the
road side. with their terraced gardens of lemons and oranges
seem rivitted to the bold over hanging rocks to keep them
trembling headlong into the sea. Some of the curves in the
road in order to over come the steeps and depths take
the form of a horse shoe the heels of which come close
to each other and makeing the impression, that we were
travelling in a circle. The view of the sea from the road
is a constant delight to the eye. Little and large
vessels dot the whole coast with thin white sails &
oppose their attractions to the many pleasing lights that


invite attention to the mountains along whosebase we ride,
After reach Amalfi. We had the greatest heat of all: a ride upon
Donkees, to the Capuchin Convent. once the house of the capuchin Monks. 
yesterday
Wednesday Febry 9th We went to far famed Paestum- passing through
Selerno - a beautefully situated town on the coast. the fine white
buildings of which were seen long before we reached it on own
way from Amalfi. At Pestum Paestum we saw the celebrated
Temple of Neptune built seven hundred years before the birth of
Christ. and here it stands to day. in stately and solemn grandeur.
impressive by its loneliness as well as by its enduring perfections.
Twenty five hundred years have shaken their hoary locks over
its majestic form - and sunshine and storm have honey
combed its massive walls and pillars - yet there it stands
and is likely to stand a thousand years hence. It has seen
Perish
Pompeii and Herculanium rise and fade. It has seen Rome
rise and its decline and fall. and a new relegion wax &
may
wane. Empires grow strong and crumble. and monk
see changes immense and innumerable. There
is something truly solemn in contemplating - 
this old Temple
To day we are writing letters to America- a heavy rain


storm darkens the sky of Naples and makes us glad to remain
under cover. Spent the Evening at mr J.C. Fletcher.
Thursday 10. Febry the rain continues. Tres Maurais temp and
we are still in the house
Friday Febry 11th.. Wrote letters to charley. Ada and Lewis - 
and told them to direct letters To care of mr Edmund Q
Putnam; Palazza Moroni: 165 Borgo. Vicchio: Roma - 
spent the Evening with mrs Fletcher and her guest
Mrs Davis - We decided to day to extend our visit to 
Egpt Egypt and Greece - and if all is well we shall
ormuz
go onboard - the largest steamer (the Ormuz) afloat
and shall steam away over the blue waters of the 
mediteranian to the Land of the Pharaohs. The
thought of this trip to Egypt and Greece will
probably keep me awake to night. This tour is
entirely outside of my calculation when leaving home -
but it will be something to contemplate when it
is done. It is no small thing to see the land
of Joseph and his brethren said from which moses
led the Children of Abraham out of the house - 
of Bondage.


Saturday Feb: 12. To cousien forty Franks and she refunded 
twenty franks
Febry 13. On board the steam ship ormuz. bound for Egypt
This morning at eight O.Clock Helen called me to the Bullseye
to catch my first view of strumboli, a volcanic mountain
conical shaped - abruptly from the sea. There were white
clouds about its base, but the morning light rested upon
its summit - and made be it, beautiful, soon after this
there loomed in the distance the mountainous shores of
Sicilily - and those of southern Italy. Messina on the one 
hand and Carigio on the other - and the straits between them
in front of us. It was a deeply interesting spectacle - and
the morning was well fitted to heighten the effect - I could
but congratulate myself that born as I was a slave marked
for a life under the lash in the cornfield that was abroad
and free and priveleged to see there distant lands
as full of historical interest and which those of the most
highly favored by fortune are permitted to visit.  I find
myself much at case on this streamer. I am known to
passengers and officers and all alike, seem to wish to
make my voyage pleasant to me. It is now blowing


pretty hard and our good ship is trembling about on the sea - 
in a manner which makes it hard to write. We did not
get a glimpse as we hoped in passing Sicily, as far famed
Edna. We were told that it was hidden by the clouds. We
hope for better luck on our return.
Monday 14. Febry. If right in my estemate of the length of time
I have been in the world, I am now 70 years old. Aside from
a cold and a little hint of sea sickness, I am quite well strong
and cheerful - This is a trying day for Helen and many other
ladies on on board. The wind is strong and the waves run
high. Few of them seem ready for dinner. My case
is better than most. For I am able to go at the sound
of the Bell. I am a little surprised at the wild
behavior of the medeteranian. I expected better things of
her. To night I saw the light on the Island of Creet - 
I suppose there was no light there when Paul
sailed along its coast. It is strange that starting
life where I did - and old as I am that I shd.
be planning this classic sea and on any way 
the
to the land of Moses and Pharoahs. where
Joseph and his brothers went for corn and Jos : 


was treacherously sold by his brothers into slavery.
Tuesday. 15. Febry. The wind has fallen and the sea has gone down
Helen is well on her feet again. We hope to be in port Said
tomorrow morning. Our morning which began bright is now
over cast with heavy clouds, and the Baromitre is going down.
Many are writing home this morning to be mailed I suppose
at Port Said - as most of our passengers are bound to Australia.
Notwithstanding English reserve I am not at a loss for all the
company I want I answer reserve with reserve, and approaches
with approach. my friends are one of the ship owners
W.G.
mr Anderson and mr and mrs Murray - real hearty
and sensible people. Miss Borden from Fall river is on
board and is going up the Nile. She is a great traveller and
is very agreeable. Five months ago this morning on
the deck of the City of Rome Helen and I bed fare
well to the Shores of America, but with expectation
of finding our way to Egypt and I dare not
now say how much further South and East we
shall go before we turn our faces homeward -
such is life !


Wednesday Febry 16. 1887. Arrived at Port Said: the queerest of
queer places. the enterance to the Suez Canal. All nations
are here represented. a place to study Ethnology. Our ship
is just now coming to the wharf. forty or fifty small
boats have already surrounded the ship and their inmates are
like
clamouring, wild fowl of every possible note to the passengers to buy
their oranges, lemons figs and other fruit. soon several
scows loaded with coal to the waters edge to coal our ship
for her further voyage. They are soon boarded by a
perfect swarm of Arab laborers. frocked, hoeded, or fezed
barefooted and barelegged to the knee, to bring in baskets
on their heads the coal on shipboard. Heavens! what a 
wild clamour - what a confusion of tongues, all going 
at once and each endeavoring to drown the voice
of the other. but the work goes bravely on. and one
is astonised at the strength cheerfulness and
endurance of these Sable children of the desert
I saw among them several genuene negroes and
they seemed not a whit behind their fellow workmen
either in noise or physical ability. When our
coal was in we moved on silently down the


the canal towards Ismalia. But through what a barren, and
desolate land do we thread our way ? Not a blade of grass - not a
tree - not a single dwelling - no sign of human life for or
animal life, except a distant row of Pelicans looking on the plain
like a line of foam on the shore of a sea. On, on we go
slowly and noiselessly on a narrow stream of pure blue
water, cut through the wide waste of sand - broad whose
limits lie far beyond the rag range of vision. Night comes: and
we anchor till morning since we are not permitted for reasons
of safety to proceed in darkness - The stillness of the day is
continued in the sight and made more impressive
by the darkness that has fallen upon the desert - 
Morning came morning came warm and bright - and
we proceed on our way. Our steamer is followed for miles
by a little boy screaming for Bacheese - No sign is given as to
where he came from or were he will go. It looks as
if he had risen out of the sand. The passengers - through
him bread and oranges. He pockets them in his scanty
clothing and runs on as if nothing has been given
him. The amazing thing was that he never was satisfied
with his gains nor tired of his running.


Thursday Febry 17. Ismalia:  We reached this place about 12 miday - too late
for the train to Cairo - and must remain here till tomorrow. We were
taken a shore from the Ormuz buy a small steamer - and have
de
taken lodging for the night at the Hotel Des Bains der mer
a small, but good food at three dollars per day - I hardly think
we can see in any part of Egypt anything more Egyptian
in the manners, customs and appearance of the people
than we see here. We saw to day a caravan of camals
bearing their burden over the sand. It vindicated the truth
of many pictures of this side of Eastern life - We saw 
several veiled woman bearing jars of water on their heads just
as woman probably did in the days of Abraham. The
market house here is quite worth seeing - even though
we shall see larger ones of the same kind when we
shall reach Cairo - E Ismalia is a new town spung up
on the prospect open by the Suez Canal. The conditions
for growth is not favorable. I saw a greek patriarch
walking a flowing robe here to day wearing a peculiar
cap. I find it hard to look wit patience upon people
who thus parade their religion in their clothes. and
who evedently wish to exact homage on account of such
pretentions


Friday 18 febry. We quietted Ismaila to day at 13 o.clk
for Cairo - and a six hour run brought to our destination.
This ride will not soon be forgotten. It was through the
Bible famous land of Goshen. - For the most part a land
of unequalled firtility of outspread fields of green vegetation
and of flourishing and picturesque palms - Here we saw
the same kind of a plow used two thousand years go - for the people
here like the laws of the Medes and persians, change not - Everything
we see remainds us of the days of Moses. I do not
know of what color and features the ancient Egyptians were - 
but the great mass of the people I have yet seen would
in america be classed with mulattoes and negroes - 
This would not be a scientific discription - but an american
description. I can easely see why the mohomitan religion
commends itself - to these people. for it does not make color
the criterion of ch fellowship. as some of our so called
Christian nations do. All colors are welcomed to the
fait of the prophert - I am stopping at the New Hotel
so called. Pretentious on the outside, expensive, but not
well kept. I got my first glimps of a pyramid to
day as we approached Carao Cairo by the train.


It was a little disappointing, but I will wait for a nearer view.
Saturday Feb. On our arrival in Cairo - we were met in the
Friday is the Mahomites Sunday
street by a grand holiday ^ procession which block the street
so completely that we were unable to go on for nearly the
half of one hour. On patience however was rewarded by 
seeing the Khedeive - and having from him a gracious
bow - and what is better to see the struggling, jostling noisy
and eager mass of his turbined subjects pushing there way
between carts, carriages, donkeys and carriages at risk
of life and limb. We could not have a better chance of 
seeing an Egyptian crowd - Though noisy and without
form, utter chaotic, it was good natured - each one took
the push of his neighbor without offense. The officer that
endeavored to clean the way for the Khedeive used a 
whip instead of sword or Bayanet - The sound of
the whip upon some of the long skirts was sharp
and loud, but no body was hurt.
Saturday febry 19. Called upon Mr Cardwell - the american
consul General. Was very courteously received by him - 
visited two Mosques
We were not allowed to enter, without putting sandals so that


infedel shoes shd not touch their sacred courts. We saw several washing
their feet and afterward kneeling and kissing or touching the floor
with their foreheads. In one respect these Mosques are
to be commended. They have no images of or pictures of saints
or God. make no effort to personify Deity.
Visited the tombs of the mamelukes. and on our way saw
various forms of squaler desease and deformity - all
manner of importunate begging. It was truly pitiful
to see a people their grovelling in filth and utter wretchedness.
We also visited the Bazars - where all manner of fabrics are
manufactured and sold. Here men were smoking, worker
their long pipes drawing the smoke through water - and selling
or rather offering their ware wares for sale. The most
painful feature met with in the streets are the hooded and
veiled women. It is sad to think of one half of the
human family should be thus cramped, kept in ignorance
and degraded - having no existence exempt that of ministeray
to the pride and lust of the men who own them as slaves
are owned. and who like and worst is they seem to
like to have it so.


Sunday Febry 20. Attended and spoke a few words to the Sunday
scool of the U.P. Church mission. It was good to see in
Egypt about two hundred of these people assembled to
recieved instruction from mr and mrs Harvey - both americans
Egypt that gave knowledge to western Europe two
thousand years ago. was now sitting at the feet of the
west - and recieving instruction from a part of the Western 
world then unknown! From the heights of her citadel we
Greet
Libyan
see Cairo an the Lybian hills and the cheapo pyyramids - 
The view is very imposing - 
Monday Febry 21. Went to the house of Dr Grant saw
his museum of Egyptian curiosities. called on the
daughters of Arch Bishop Whately who have been
here twenty five years teaching school: Excellent
women doing excellent work.
Tuesday: 22d. In company with mr and Mrs Shankland
went to the Gehezeh Gizeh and climbed to the top of Cheops,
the highest Pyramid in the Valley of the nile. The
height is four hundred and seventy feet. The ascent
is both difficult and dangerous and I would not
undertake it again for any consideration.


Wednesday Febry: 23. Called with miss Conner on several Egyptian
families in the morning and in teh afternoon went to Hileopolis and
saw the famous Ostritch farm - and the beautiful obolisk 
red
obolisque of ^ granite the only visible remains of the once great
city of On.
Thursday 24. Went the Museum in Cairo. the largest
and best assemblage of Egyptian antiquities now - 
extant. The Room of the Mummies is startling
when we think wer we ar looking at people who lived
and moved in this Valley three thousand years
ago. In the Evening we took supper with mr. &
mrs Harvey Missionaries . after ward prayer meeting
Friday 25. Febry. Wrote during the forenoon
sent one letter to mrs Crofts and one to Rosetta - In the afternoon
went to see the hot Howling Dervishers at worship. the Coptic
Church and the Jewish seynagauge _ and then took a ride on
the Subra Road - There was much to remind
in the worship of the Howling Dervishers of the colored
methodist campmeetings in the South. There were many 
spectators present - and the worshippers got a good bit
of money by their queer performance, which by the


did not seem insincere. They evidently thought their worship
were pleasing to their God. One man spun around like a top
forty or fifty times without stopping. I thought he would certainly
fall to the floor but he did not and but after resting a few
minutes proceeded with his whirling till the close of the meeting. Another
man worked himself up to a perfect frenzy - jumping up &
down and at last fell to the floor rigid as one dead. During
all the worship their beating on large Tamboreenes - blowing on a 
reed instrument, a kind of chant and momentary interjection
of recetations from the Korall - The Whole performance was sad 
to behold - sad to think that rational being could be made to believe that
such physical contortions could be pleasing to God or secure his
favour - yet how much better is the form of worship adopted by
many other denominations - and is it not strange that men should
imagine to secure Divine favor by telling God how good &
they
greet he is and how much ^ love and adore him - God is
glorified not by such worship. but by a spirit of obedience
to the laws of our being as established by the Almighty and
written in the very constitution of things - Burnt offerings
incantations and muscular action - silence reason and 
degrade manhood.


Saturday Febry 26: Went this morning to Mohameden College
where twelve thousand pupels studying the Coron and preparing
to teache its doctrines to the benighted sons of men. I saw
about two thousand of them in the court and college building
receding their morning lesson. They wore the peculiar dress
and Turban of the mohamedan and presented a striking
spectacle. If sincerity is any proof of the truth of their creed
they certainly give that proof but alas! sincerety is no
such proof The most revolting imposture has been defended
by equal earnestness and sincerity - The followers of the
prophet can pray as loudly and preach to as many
miracles as the christian can - they even exceed the christian
in religious attention to cerimony - We also went to see
the Mohamden Bible house, where you may see
the Coran in all languages. It is a gret
sight Two hundred millions of people are
said to receide this sacred Book. the Coran -  
Sunday Febry: 27. Attended a Presbyteran service conducted in Arabec
in the morning. did some promenading in the afternoon
wrote to Charley. and went to see a great tree called the Banian
Tree. The peculiarity of this tree is that its branches extend to the


ground take root and spread indefinitely - 
monday 28 Febry. We rode away over a delightful Road
on Donkeys the Ghezireh Palace and Gardens and
Grotto. It well repaid the trouble though for my part
the ride on Donkeys among multitudes of people
in oriental costume and crowds of camels and Donkeys
making a striking of Egyptian life was to me more
interesting - than palace gardens or Grotto.
Tuesday march 1st 1887 This has been one of the most interesting days we
have spent in Egypt. This morning we set out at half past seven on a journey
of sixteen miles three to the Railway Station for Bedrachien and
thence six miles on the backs of Donkeys to the site of ancient
Memphis and the necropolis of Sakar Sakkara. The Donkey ride
was a hard one - but the results were very satisfactory. We first came
to the site of memphis and there we saw a paid of sculpture
which suppose had no equal in the world. a statue of Ramses
forty two feet in height - and here there fragments of broken
archetecture and sculpture. But the chief place of interest was
several miles away. It was the necropolis of Sakkara with its
Pyramids and tombs. The tombs are truly archetectural wonders - 


Wednesdsay 2d. march. Went to witness parade &
sham battle by British troops stationed in Cairo
The people of Cairo were not attracted to see the fine show.
They are evidently not over pleased with the presence and
power of British Soldiers. though in truth, they are probabably
much better off with them than they would be without them.
Thursday 3d.. march: Went to look at Dahabiyeh incompany
with miss Agg. and miss Richardson. We are to go with them
in it on use Eight days trip up the nile - In the afternoon
walked with Helen through Bazar - 
March 11th Have just returned from a five days trip up the nile as
far as Beni Hassen while there were few points of special
interest reached during the trip the excursion upon the whole
owing. to the general character and history of the country
the peculiar character of the people met with along the
shores of the great river. the strange appearance of the
by
towns. the varied scene presented the barren and desolate
sand mountains assembling all sorts of shapes sometimes
resembling vast fortifications and at other reminding us
of enormous animals. made was one of the interesting and
delightful made during my tour abroad.


It is not strange that people of Egypt almost deify the Niles without
it there country would become a barren waste. The Nile feeds
clothes and shelters them, from it they get water to drink, water
to bath. to wash their clothes, from it they get their fish,
&
the mud to build their houses. The fertilizer to repair
the waste of the soil in production. It is to them the
source of life and whatever of health and prosperity for
which its people have to be thankful. It is great highway
over which their products find their way to markets - 
and its bosom night and day is covered with curiously
rigged vessels. with wing shaped sails going to and from
Cairo. Our trip was made upon a Dahhabezez. Christeaned 
by Miss Richardson and Miss Aggo as the Meni - 
14th.. March monday. Arrived at Alexandria stopt
Hotel Bonnard - Tuesday 15th march. Called
upon mr Ewing Missionary also upon Judge
J.B. Kinsman - took a pleasant ride
with kind in company with Judge
Brinkhouse afterward launched with
them. Saw Pompeys Pillar - and the
site of the Alexandrian Library


wednesday mar: 16. Took passage on Board the Egyptian
steamer Sanchie. for Athens. The weather beautiful
the passengers pleasant and we hope for a prosperous
voyage. The thought of soon treading the classic
shores of Greece is very exhilerating.
Saturday 19th march. Have now been Athens a part of two days.
spent the first afternoon at the Acropolis saw the city from
its heights saw the great Parthe^on. theatre of Dyonesus the
Dionesseus, the it reputed to hold thirty thousand the
adlium said to have held six thousand - the proportion
n
Erecatheium - the propylaea - There was point out
to us from the Acropolis the place of the imprison .
of Socratees - On our way we passed the Temple
of Jupiter of which these is now standing only
15
a facad corinithian pillars looking beautiful
even in their ruin..
Saturday March 20. we have been treated to day to
one of the finest views we ever got of any country
in the same length of time. We ascended by a
Zizag path to the top of Lycabettus 919 feet above
the level of the sea. I would look down upon


the famous city and its surroundings - and note its Che
the chief features of interest from the school of Plato
to the waters salamis. It was a scene never
to be forgotten. The Plains of Attica were spread out
at our feet. Over the mountains, we could almost
see the fields of Marathon. off toward the sea
we could see dimly the mountains of Sparta.
In the City of Athens, solemn and grand with its
many pillars stood out the form of the Temple
of Thesious one of the most perfect and striking of all
the fallen architectural ruins left to tell us the
wealth pride ambition and power of the
ancient people of this famous city.
Thursday march 24. Tomorrow, we shall leave
this classic city for Italy. Stopping again for a
brief Period at Naples. and thence to Rome.
To day I took my last look at the acropolis -
and stood for the first time on areapogus.
and heard read Pauls famous address to
the Athenians 18 hundred years ago. I
tried to imagine the state of mind incited


Monday 23 mar: A rough voyage of three days and nights brought
safely to Naples where we now are. Here we have received
tidings of the serious illness of mrs Gidion Pitts, my wife's
Mother. which may lead my wife to give up the remaining
part of her European Tour. She to day Telegraphed her sister
the enquiry '-Shall I come?
29th March Tuesday. We are awaiting the answer with
much anxiety.
Wednesday 30. The answer has come and the news is favorable
Thursday 31. Visit Pagani a town about twenty miles from Naples.
and spent the day. with Mr and Mrs Tucel Taccillo - at
their Villa few situated on the mountain side 88o
feet above the level of the sea from which is a fine
view of Vesuvious and the Appenines the high points
of which are now covered with show.
Friday April 1st.. went to Naples. spend the Evening with
mr and mrs Fletcher and Mrs Davis.


Freday: april 15. We have now been in Rome (a second time) one
week have witnessed the Easter ceremonies at St Petro abounding
in excellent music much kneeling, changing of vestments,
much posturing making signs of the cross. and what
seemed to my eyes mere pantomine, but which to the
worshippers I must try to beliive was full of devotion -
To day a great surprise came to me. I received a call
at the Hotel De la Poste where I am stopping from a lady
of very fine appearance who introdnced herself as Mrs John
Biddulph martin of 17 Hyde Park Gate S. W. She
frankly - and I thought somewhat proudly told me that
she was formerly mrs Victoria Woodhull. I am not sure
that I quite concealed my surprise. but a train of events
which
flashed upon me, the impression of them was difficult to
drive from my face and manner. I however soon began
to think, what do I know of this lady. that I should
think her otherwise, than merely holding strange
and erronious opnions. I do not know that she
is not in her life as pure as she seems to be. I treated
her politely and respectfully and she departed apparently
not displeased with her call.


April 18. We leave the Hotel De la Poste to Day. and go
Borgo
mrs Putnam: Palazza moroni 165. Vicchio Borgo
among the interesting calls made upon us during our
stay at this Hotel one of the most interesting was
that of Mr Wm.. H Hereford of manchester England
We met yesterday at the U.P. Church senator fry
the U. S. senate.
April 20th Spent most of the day in the halls of Statuary
in the Vatican said to be the best colection of such works
of Art in the world. Here we see the heads of the
Emperors as rendered by those who saw them - and I suppose
they are likenesses some of them taken in their
youth, middle age and when they had grown
old and hardened in Crime or the reverse
April 21. Attended the reveiling
a monument to Galileo - On the
pinceo. The time selected for the
ceremony was well chosen. It was
on the day upon which it is supposed
that Rome was founded. therefore the
annerversary. The monument consist of


a granite column about ten feet in hight about
18 iches diametre, on a marble pedestal. Surmounted
with a globe. showing lines of latitude and longetude
on its surface. There is a belt of bronze around it
with a latin inscription and the name of Galileo upon it
There was neither Prayes nor prests imployed in its
unveiling. For the monument is an honor to science
and not to superstition
22. Friday april: Attended Reception of Judge Stallo - the
american minester. The occasion every way pleasant
Mr Stallo was more than courtious to all his guests
and I thought especially cordial to mrs Douglass
and myself taking her on his arm to the dining
room and requesting an


Addresses to be remembered
May 8. 1887.
madame Remond Pintor
Piazza Barberina. no. 6. Rome
Caledonia Hotel: Adelphic Terrace. Strand. London.
Piazza
Address at Florence. Mrs Geoti: no. one. Sodereni
P.B.
Worde to mrs Clark: steet. May 13.-


Tuesday. May 10th Arrived in Florence.
My first excursion here was to see the grave of
Theodore Parker in the Protestant cemetary. I found
in the grateful shade of a cedar tree - covered with
violets and roses. attesting the presence of some
friendly hand. The brown headstone has nothing
ornamental or costly about it. The inscription
has only the name of the great man whose
dast steeps below it with the date of his
bearth and his death. I could but recall
as I looked upon his grave, the many
services rendered the cause of human freedom
by him - freedom not only from physical
chains but the chains of superstition. - those
which not only galled the limbs and torn the
flesh - but those which marred and wounded
the human soul. A few feet from the
remains of Theodore Parker lie those
of Rechard Hildreth. another american
who will niver be forgotlen by those who
have read his Book entilted Despotesum in


america and the white slave. It is said to think
that one with such talent as Richard Hildreth
should have died in absolute poverty in a
foreign, but such I am told was the fact.
In the same cemetary - where so many
americans have found a last resting place
I found the grave of E. B. Browning -
I have inquired and laught, but
have not found in Florence the home
of miss Ludmilla Ashing the sister of my
friend of many years miss Ludmilla Assing -
Alas! how soon are the dead forgotten -
and how soon we who live must be
consigned to the same oblivion.
Florence is all alive to day She is expecting
the arrival of her king and queen. They
are immensily popular not only in
Florence all over Italy. The priests hate
them but the people love them. The streets
are now densely packed with a multitude
eager to look upon royalty! yet what after


is all the pomp and glory of kings! How soon
must the strongest and proudest sink. below
the horizon and mingle with the common
dust of the eaarth.
Wednesday: We Helen and I went to see Prof.
Fiske in his beautiful home the former residence
of minister Marsh. We were cordially received
shown his Library - his study - his ground - the
remarkable points of the environs of Florence
invited to stay to breakfast, and to dine at
any time during our stay in Florence. For
this last our stay was entirely too short.
Florence is, as I intemated full of life. Her streets
are crowded with people, her houses are adorned
with flags - of all colors and nationalities
splended equipages, with livened servants are
dashing through the street and dazzling
in the sunlight. Well dressed men and
elegantly dressed ladies, are finding there
way through orderly crowds of the common
people who seem to feel as much at home


and as much at their ease as the princely
personages who roll by in their splended Carriages.
This feature of the scene gladdens my eyes.
We shall be here only three or four whole
days and I am already greibed to quitt this
truly delightful city -
Sunday may 15th
we have now been in Italy since the 10th five days of sight seeing -
and of tumultuous enthusiasm. King Humbert and his wife, I
should say the Queen, are here to unveil the splended facade
of the Duomo - the grand cathedral of Florence. We have seen
the ufizzi Palace with its fine pictures and statuary - The church
of San Marco - the grand mosoleum of the medicio be and the
Tombs built by Michelangelo. very impressive are the
figures. we have seen the monastery of san marko - and the
room of salvonarola and the place where burnt to death and
above all we have seen the streets of Florence crowded
with its citizens and the peoples from the neighboring
cities and country - and found them very like the same -
crowd to be seen in american cities on great occasions
only as I think a brief more good natured though not


more quiet in behavior. The Arno forms a beautiful feature of
Florence as the seine is to Paris. We leave tomorrow for Venice with
a feeling that our stay has been all to brief in Florence -
May 21.
We have now spent four days in Venice,
and two days. in melace, and have passed this
day in Lucern. The ride from Florence to Venice
was delightful - The weathe was neither too hot
nor too cold - and bright sunshine gave a lustre
to the snow crowned Appenines and set there
off attractions and ch imposingly. As to Venice itself
I can only say it surpassed all the ideas I had formed
of it. It is a city by itself. I had read of its canals, its
Gondolas - its Rialto, its palaces and its wonders of
art and its churches - and was prepared to look upon
all with admiration - but had after small comprehension
of its charms. The square in front of st mark
That monarch churches is flancked by the Doge's
Palace and arcades on the other once seen will
fine
never be forgotten - and will always tower before
the mind with peculiar pleasure. In looking at


Venice as it is with the marks of decay upon it, though
still in many respects the most beautiful of cities
but we easily think of what it must have been in
the days of its, when it was the city of merchant
Princes. and had control of the rich commerce of all
the East - when it was a free Republic. I saw its
Biblotyc containing acres of volumes - and precious
manuscripts among these I saw letters from those
great americans: John Adams, Thomas Jefferson
and Benjamin Franklin. On the great
canal, I saw the house where Desdemoni reseded
when wooed by Othelo. No where else than in
Venice is glass manufactured into more perfect
forms of beauty. Where climate, sea and sky are
so beautiful - it is not strange that they should
suggest beauty to the artificers in all kinds of works -
Milan: aside from its splended
Cathedral, is not remarkable. It is simply
a fine city with fine houses, stores, sq
squares - like any other fine city -


I have spoken of the ride from Florence to Venice
but that was nothing in comparison with
the ride from milan to Lucern. Delightful
surprises - in mountain scenery kept our eyes awake
and eager all the way - now it was towering snow
covered mountan tops, overhanging and frowning rocks
deep gorges looking as if opening to swallow up our
ondashing train, and now it was beautiful cascades
leaping in dazzling splendour down the darken
mountain side - to join some dancing stream that
threaded its way through depths below. Then there
little swiss cottages tucked up neatly in little
spaces. often higher up than the Eagle is won't -
build his nest _ and where avalanches and Landslides
seemed must to threaten. Every possible corner
of earth here which gave the faintest promise
of reward - seemed carefully tilled - Here at least
there are no idlers - men, women and children
all work and even that born gentleman of
leasure the day is seen hilping his master
to bear his burden. Women in their red


head dresses, ornament the field, but and at the same do
their full share with shovel and hoe. Wherever else, woman
is denied her equal right to toil like a man here she at
least her equality is fully and fairly recognized.
Lucern, where I now am, has a beautifful lake at
its feet a powerful stream receiving through it , -
firtile fields and gardens on oneside and cloud piercing
mountains on the other. It is difficult to conceive
a town situated more beautifully and I do not
wonder that it attracts in Summer a large
conserve of visitors.
may 25. I am again back in Paris at the Hotel Britannique
wrote to charley to day - called on the Stantons - and upon
mr Tilton, the latter not home - Called upon the Lespremonts -
and learned of the death of the dear old man the head of the
house - Bought Ticket par la ville de Rome pour Helen
may 26: A long walk the la rue de Rivoli -
Sunday 29 may - Was much in company with
Mr Theodore Stanton called upon senator scheolcher -
In parting with venerable Senator he kissed me on
both cheeks.


London May 31. Calidian Hotel. Walked through the National Picture
gallery - saw there the Picture of a horse the finest I ever saw
on canvass - Wrote a letter to mrs Fanny Byse. 6.  Rue
Bean Sjour, Lausanne - a lady of fine intellect and of liberal
relegious views. My letter was in answer to one from her. In
it she had said "The old heaven was a nice place where
all kindred spirits were to meet again, but we must
make the best of Mother Earth. and memory."
June 4.
I have received letters with the following
address. One from Mrs Dora Delany -
6. St. Johns Wood Park London
one from mr Arther John Naish. 149 Stratford Road
Bermingham -
one from mr Chas: H. Allen. 55. New Broadstreet London.
one from Mrs Isabella Mills. Northwold Bowden
Mrs. Bigelow. american degation London -
Sunday 5. june. Heard Spurgeon - Dined with mrs
Lucas 7 Charlotte that Bedford square.


Mrs Barrett. 59 Kliber Ave. Paris.
Mrs John Mills: Northwold Bowdon England,
Mr W.a Temperly 5. Kensington Terrace Newcastle on Tyne
Mr Arthur Griffith: 34 granville street west Glasgow.
Mr Theodore Merz: The quaries. Newcastle on Tyne
Mr David Richardson. The Gables ..      ..      ..
Mr John Smith. c/o smith Brothers re. Port of Spain.
Trinidad: W. I.
Miss Eliza Smith Hellenburgh. on Clyde. Scotland
Mrs Wilhelmina. West. Arkill, Killing co. Dublin
Pitch & Par
Mr Char: Thomas. Stoke Bishop. near Bristol.
Mrs Susanna Webb. 9 Belgrave Road. Rothmines. Dublin
Abram
mr & mrs Shackleton Clondarrach. For Rock co. Dublin
miss. Deborah Webb. hang. R.D.W.J 9 Granville Road Dublin
Mrs Susannah Webb. 9. Rothmines
Mrs John Webb Ardkill, Killing Co. Dublin Ireland


Thomas Henry and Elizabeth Emily Webb
Primrose Hill. Kingstown
Ireland.-.
Grace, Isabel, Webb.
Roger. Webb. 1891.
Mrs M W Rindge Perkins St Paul Minn
Mrs Lucas: 7. Charlotte St. Bedford square
London
J.H. Lewis Esqr
147. Washington Street: Boston


march 17. 1894
I called yesterday while in Baltimore in company
with Bishop Alexander Wayman, upon Dr Thomas
Edward Sears, a Grand son of Thomas and Lucretia
Auld and learned the following facts.
Capt: Thomas Auld, was born january 28 1795.
Amanda Auld, his Daughter was born Jan: 28. 1826.
Thomas, son of Hugh and sophia, was born Jan:
1824
capt Aaron Anthony, Died, nov: 14
1825.
The Death of Aaron Anthony enables me
to fit the year in which I was sent to live
with mr Hugh Auld in Baltimore, as 1825.
I know that it must have been in the summer of that year
that I went to live in Baltimore because, the spring lambs were
big enough to be sent to market, and helped to drive
a flock of them from smiths Dock to Fells Point
on the day I landed in Baltimore.


Mr & El. Onley 41. N.  union street. Jacksonville. Florida.
miss Willie Bryant Gainesville Florida.
M. W. Greene. East Greenwich R. I.
H. A. Wagoner. Denver Colorado -
mrs mary Jones. 43 Ray Street Chicago IL.
S. T. Pickard. Portland. maine.
Miss E.H Day Biddeford Maine
Rev Henry Wayland. Philadelphia
Mr Isaiah wears: 955. N. 6th Street Philadelphia
mr Robert Purvis. 1601. mt Vernon Street Phila
mr J. H. Lewis. 417 Washington St. Boston mass,
Mrs Hannah Davis. Spiceland, Ind:
Robert Folger Esqr: massellon Ohio -
Miss Hoswell 116. Congdon St Providence R.I.
Miss Lizzie Foster. 900 Cross St Little Rock Ark.
H. O. Wagoner: 2154 Arapahoe, St. Denver, Colorado
Mr Geo: Vosburgh. 37. Chesnut st Cleveland Ohio
Mr Thom: Edward Sears. 630 W. Franklin St. Balti. md
miss E.B.Knel, E. 10th..  St. Wilmington Delaware.
Rev. Matthew Anderson. 50, Col Ave. Phila. Pen.


W.P.
mrs.. C. H Hotel ^ Hotel West Newton  mass
Mrs Joseph Lee. Woodland Park Hotel. Avondale mass:
Rev. Wm.. H. Weaver N. Eastern 1st. Baltimore Ma.


